Penshurst - 16 Jan 2000

The detailed route follows this narrative.

Penshurst lies in one of the finest areas in Kent for walking. There is a variety of terrain, from ridges, meadows, woodland, broad valleys and riverside.

The village still has a feudal appearance to it, with the established trinity of manorial Penshurst Place, St. John the Baptist Anglican church, and the Leicester Arms pub.

                     The Leicester Arms.                    St John's Anglican Church

Much of the village remains the property of the Sidney family, who have owned Penshurst Place for around 450 years. Friends who live in the village say renting a home there is by personal recommendation.

Originally the estate of 4,000 acres (1,600 hectares) was bought by Sir John de Pultney in 1338 as his country retreat and was used for hunting. It was he who built the Baron's hall with it's 60ft (18m) ceiling.

The estate later passed into the hands of the Dukes of Buckingham, many of whom had short lives and all of whom appeared in some guise or other in Shakespeare's tragedies.

Edward the VI gave the estate to the Sidneys in 1552. There have been many famous Sidneys including, the poets Sir Phillip, and indirectly, Percy Bysshe Shelley.

Penshurst Place is open to the public for much of the year and has very attractive gardens. The church is set in a timeless setting and a lovely building, both from near and afar.

The Leicester Arms pub is a beautiful example of Elizabethan workmanship. The weathered oak beams and faded plaster are worth the visit alone. Inside, the pub is more than the usual local. The fireplace, ancient carved settles and ceilings show it was a place of affluence. The name comes from the Sidneys, who were the Earls of Leicester.

10 years ago the food was really good too. A few years ago it was awful, but lately it has improved. Not enough to rate as more than acceptable though. I don't think the caged parrot in the lounge is such a good idea, although it kept young Jonathan entertained. The beer is fine, Larkins etc.

The walk started from the pub, went through the churchyard and past Penshurst Place. After crossing open parkland, we passed the ancient Sidney Oak, a hollow stump about 2.4 metres (8ft) high with one live branch propped up by a stave. A gentle incline takes you to a wide grassy ride along a grand avenue of trees.

Views of Penshurst and surrounding country are worth a stop.

Looking south-east from the avenue.

The next stretch took us gently downhill through some very muddy paths. Waterlogged would be a more apt description. Jonathan had muttered something about keeping well away from puddles earlier. He said his mum would kill him if he got his jeans muddy. Whatever his strength of conviction, he showed a distinct lack of ability to resist the gravitational pull of any puddle he saw.

Jonathan along the Eden Valley Walk

Passing a party of children trying to free their feet from the suction of the mud, he thought it was hilarious when one little girl had to be pulled out of a very sticky patch.

The next path is much easier, along a concrete track on a ridge. This leads to the river Medway and it's broad water meadows. A long stroll through these took us back to a farm overlooking the village.

The final descent took us down to the lakes, where the church appeared silhouetted before a pastel sunset.

St John's and Penshurst Place, backlit by the setting sun

The Route:

Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 147

Distance: 7.24km (4.5 miles)

From the parking area, go past the Fir Tree teahouse to the crossroads. Turn left, and head for the Leicester Arms Inn, where you cross the road and follow the path to the church.

The Old Post Office and Tudor cottages. The archway leads to the church.

Just before the front door of the church, take the left path towards the back of the building.

There you will find a squeeze stile, which you go through and then continue ahead.

Passing Penshurst Place on your right, aim for a set of wooden gates before you. To the right of the gates is another squeeze stile. Pass through that and cross over a lane to another stile opposite.

Keeping ahead, you will join a double line of oaks; older trees on the left, and newly planted ones on the right. Continue up the avenue of oaks until you come to a brick built WW2 pillbox.

Aim half right from the pillbox to a squeeze stile in the fence before you. Once over the stile, turn right and aim just to the right of an ancient oak tree surrounded by a paling fence.

Past t he tree, go through another stile and then aim half left towards another avenue of trees. Once in the avenue, turn left and head uphill between the trees.

At the top of the avenue, you turn right to join a very broad ride along the brow of a ridge.

About 40 metres before a blue gate and a stile, turn right to go slightly downhill, past a Penshurst Place public footpath sign.

At the bottom of the path, continue on into a small wood following a broad track.

Keep ahead after the wood and at the other end of a field, go through another squeeze stile, still in the same direction.

After 70 metres from this stile, turn left through another squeeze stile and follow the right hand fence to a concrete farm track. Join the track and keep ahead until you reach three cottages. Turn right into their drive and then within 10 paces, take a stile on the left into a field.

Next head towards a post indicated by an arrow on the stile pointing half right.

Continue past the post and you will soon see a stream, which you can cross via a footbridge.

Once over the bridge, turn right, keeping the River Medway to your left Pass through a gateway in the middle of the fence before you and keep ahead.

Passing another pillbox on the left, keep walking along this broad pretty valley.

At the next tiny hedge keep ahead, ignoring a stile in the right hand fence and passing another pillbox 40 metres on.

After you pass another pillbox, which is in a field over the right fence, continue on for 25 metres to a pair of gates on the right.

Cross over the right hand gate onto a wide grassy path leading uphill, with the top of a cottage visible above you.

At the top of the path, go through a metal gate by the cottage and follow the farm drive, first right, then left, past some dilapidated buildings.

When the drive meets a concrete track, turn left along it, heading slightly downhill.

As the track goes downhill, take the drive towards Well Place Farmhouse, but before the gates, take another track to the right, going uphill towards a yew tree.

Continue on this path for a few metres, past two trees on your left. Just after the second tree, head half left (in a NNW direction) towards a post in the field.

When you reach the post, turn left and head for the bottom left hand corner of the field.

At the bottom, cross over a stile and head downhill towards a lake, keeping to the left hand hedge.

About 30 metres on, beside a metal gate, go through another stile on your left onto a concrete lane.

Turn right along the lane.

Keep on this lane with views of Penshurst Place and the church before you. Eventually passing the wall of Penshurst Place, you emerge onto the main road via an arch by a gatehouse.

Turn right along the road to the village and the Leicester Arms. Continue past the pub to the crossroads and turn right to the parking area beyond the Fir Tree teahouse.