Journey through Wales 2

Being a record by Ifor of Gwent of his journey through the Welsh March with the Sheriff of Blackwater and others, illustrated by the author.

Our next sojourn was therefore at Caerdydd (1), 'the Fortress on the river Tâf'. The Romans arrived here in 76AD and built an eight-acre stronghold, the better to subdue my fierce ancestors, the Silures. This strategic site served as a naval base and trading post. Two centuries later, the fort was rebuilt with ten-foot walls, which still remained when the Normans arrived in the eleventh century. During our visit, we descended to the foundations of the outer defences, where the Roman masonry can still be seen.	INCIPIT PARS SECUNDA
During the mediæval period, attacks by the Welsh tested the castle and prompted improvements and strengthening. Passing through the hands of knights, nobility and royalty, Castell Caerdydd fell into decay after the English Civil War. In the following century, it came by marriage into the possession of the Marquesses of Bute. The third Marquis appointed one William Burges, an architect, to restore the castle. The result is an imposing yet slightly fantastical exterior, and an interior which delights and astounds the eye with its extravagant stained glass, wood carvings, sculpture and murals. For a modest pecuniary consideration, we were shown a number of the rooms. One had a zodiacal theme, another an Arabic style. Robert found pleasing a long hall with murals depicting the deeds of the Normans, but Michael's eye was captured by a young girl, with whom he shared many embraces.
The Norman keep, standing on its mound within a moat near the North Gate, still dominates the castle grounds, but it has a sadly deserted air amid so much splendour. The forty-foot mound was probably constructed in 1081, when William the Bastard, Rex Anglorum et Dux Normanniae, Cenomannis dominus patriae,(2) entered Wales, while the stone keep was added by Earl Robert of Gloucester prior to his death in 1147.
Castell Caerdydd was the headquarters and chief strongpoint of Norman power in Morgannwg (3), yet all its fortifications failed to prevent the humiliation of Earl Robert's son, William, in 1158, by a certain Ifor ap Meurig (4) of Senghennydd, some of whose lands he had confiscated. At that time, Cardiff Castle was guarded by a huge squad of sentinels, at least 120 men-at-arms and a great number of archers. One night, in complete disregard of all these, Ifor carried some ladders to the walls, clambered over them without being seen, seized hold of the Earl and his Countess, with their small son, made off with them all three, and carried them into the woods. He refused to release them until he had recovered everything that had been taken from him unjustly, and a little more.	Ifor Bach
On the first Saturday after Easter in 1172, Henry II spent the night in Caerdydd. The next morning he heard Mass at Saint Piran's chapel (sadly, now long vanished). On leaving, he was accosted by a bare-footed man, apparently a monk. He spoke to the King in English, saying "God holde thee, cuning. Christ salutes you, with His Holy Mother, John the Baptist and the Apostle Peter. They command you to prohibit strictly in all the lands under your sway every kind of buying and selling on Sundays. If you do not soon amend your ways, before this year is out you will hear such news of what you hold most dear in all the world, and you will be so troubled by it, that it will stay with you until the end of your life." (5) The King scornfully turned to ride off. He had not gone eight steps when he pulled on the reins. "Call the good man back to me!" he cried. But the monk - if so he was - was nowhere to be found, though the king's men searched the chapel, the hall and all the inns. The following Lent the King's three sons rebelled against him and deserted to Louis, King of the French. This caused the King greater uneasiness than he had ever experienced before. By the grace of God, who desireth not the death of a sinner, but rather that he may turn from his wickedness, and live, the King received many other warnings and reproofs, both at this time and as his death came nearer. He was impervious to advice and he took no notice whatsoever, being obstinate and obdurate by nature.	Which means: God protect thee, king.
The Norman Keep at Caerdydd
It was apparent to all that Castell Caerdydd needed no intervention by Blackwater's Sheriff for its protection. Leaving Caerdydd, we turned away from Gerald's route and headed northward into the uplands of Senghennydd. Our destination was a castle built after Gerald's time.	EXPLICIT PARS SECUNDA

1	Cardiff, the fortress being Castell Caerdydd. In current times, Caerdydd is the capital city of Wales. (back)
2	William I, ('the Conqueror'), King of England, Duke of Normandy and Count of Maine. Born probably in the Autumn of 1028, the illegitimate son of Duke Robert I of Normandy by a tanner's daughter named Herleve, he became Duke in July 1035. In 1062, he seized the county of Maine. In October 1066 he invaded and conquered England, and was crowned King at Westminster Abbey on Christmas Day. He died in Rouen on 9 September 1087. According to Ordericus Vitalis, the dying William declared: I tremble when I reflect on the grievous sins which burden my conscience, and am stained with the rivers of blood that I have shed. The Latin quotation in the text is from his elegy, Flete Viri. (back)
3	'Land of Morgan', known now as Glamorgan. (back)
4	This Ifor was a man of immense courage, but he was very short, whence he was called 'Ifor Bach'. (Bach means 'short'.) Quotations are from Itinerarium Cambriae by Gerald of Wales. (A translation of his Itinerarium Cambriae, 'The Journey Through Wales' and Descriptio Cambriae, 'The Description of Wales' is available in the Penguin Classics series : ISBN 0-14-044339-8.) (back)
5	This story is also from Gerald's Itinerarium Cambriae. He asserts that he had the details in person from one Philip de Mercros, who was holding the reins of the king's horse, and who acted as interpreter. (back)