NE Spain 3 - 17 June 2000 |
Saturday 3rd June - just before dawn we awoke to a deafening chorus of thousands of frogs/ toads calling from the paddyfields and spent a frustrating half hour trying to identify our first birds in the dark. As it got lighter we saw several Whiskered Terns, Black-winged Stilts and various Herons. We then drove along the TV3406 towards the visitor centre seeing our first Fan- tailed Warbler on the way. By the visitor centre was a raised hide giving good views across the Bassa de l'Encanyissada where there were large numbers (several hundred) of Red-crested Pochards, lots of Herons and Flamingos and Gulls including Audouin’s. In the surrounding reed beds were several Little Bittern and lots of warblers including Savi's, Great Reed and Fan-tailed. We then stopped just under 1km further along the road, on a bend where the road splits and crosses an irrigation canal. This site was very good for excellent views of Little Bittern, Night Heron, Purple Heron, Savi’s and Great Reed Warblers as well as close views of Audouin’s Gull. We then took the left fork (straight on) and headed towards the beach at Eucaliptus leading to Punta de la Banya. Along this road was a colony of gulls in a saltworks area. These were mainly Yellow- legged but also included Slender-billed, Audouin’s, and Black-headed Gulls. Gull-billed Terns were also very common in this area. In the low scrubby vegetation alongside the beach there were good numbers of Crested and Lesser Short-toed Larks and Kentish Plovers. We then drove a short way back towards l'Encanyissada seeing several Pratincoles in a ploughed field close to the roadside. After a while we decided to drive along the beach towards Punta de la Banya. A female Eider was a surprise on the drive along the beach and a few waders were on the saltpans at the end including Green Sandpiper, but it was too hot to walk very far. In the afternoon we travelled to the north side of the Delta via the Ferry at Sant Jaume d'Enveja and visited the Information Centre at Deltebre, where we were given maps and plenty of information of what was around. We then visited Platja de la Marquesa to look for a Western Reef Heron, which had been present. We did not see this but there were plenty of other birds around. Later we returned to the southern side of the Delta, and spent the evening back on the beach at Eucaliptus which was very good for Kentish Plover and good numbers of Pratincoles which were hawking for insects, often flying within a few feet of us, though by this time the mosquito‘s were becoming unbearable.
Sunday 4th June - in the morning after a short while spent around Eucalyptus beach, we visited the tower hide overlooking the Bassa del Garxal and Illa de Buda. This was excellent and from here we saw three Glossy Ibis, two Great White Egret and several Purple Gallinules while Pratincoles hawked around the tower below us. While driving away from here we found one ploughed field that held at least 30 Pratincoles. In the afternoon we gradually drove out of the Delta area via the TV-3443 towards Tortosa, and then on the C230 for approx 22km (seeing our first Short-toed Eagle after about 15km), then on the c235 to Gandesa. Along this road we stopped at two places. At the first we found our first Black-eared Wheatear, Cirl Buntings and Woodlarks etc and at the second stop our first Sardinian and Bonelli's Warblers, Woodchat Shrike and Chough. We then carried on along the N232 towards Azaila, where we turned on to the A1307 towards Belchite. Along this stretch of road we stopped in a cereal growing area, where we saw our first Calandra and Short-toed Larks, White Stork, Montagu's Harrier and two Black-bellied Sandgrouse. Then we stopped a few km down the road at a rubbish tip where we saw our first Rock Sparrows, as well as good numbers of Serin, Bee-eater, Woodchat Shrike, Turtle Dove, Wheatear and Black Kites. Night at Belchite.
Monday 5th June - at the El Planerol reserve a Red-necked Nightjar was heard calling briefly before dawn and we saw good numbers of Calandra, Thekla, Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed Larks, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Stone Curlew, Black-eared Wheatear and a ringtail Montagu’s Harrier. A few km further along the road towards Quinto, we stopped at the entrance of a track leading to a small reservoir to the north of the road. Here we saw 10-15 Lesser Kestrel, Hobby, good numbers of Black Kites and Griffon Vultures, four Black-bellied Sandgrouse as well as many Larks. We then returned to Belchite to visit the market but the Information Centre was closed. On the way back along the TV222 between Belchite and Codo we stopped at an area of Olive and Cork Oak Plantations which were very good for Orphean Warbler, Golden Oriole, Woodlark, Cirl Bunting and our first Egyptian Vulture, etc. Just Past Codo we stopped near a small roadside pool where we saw Melodious and Great Reed Warblers and then went on a short walk to investigate a group of Magpies mobbing something. To our surprise we found a Genet sitting in the Magpies nest presumably having consumed the contents. We then returned and drove a short way along the track leading to the reservoir north of the road, where we saw Black-winged Stilt and Little Ringed Plover. We then set off along the road towards Quinto with just one brief stop as a Golden Eagle passed overhead with a Common Buzzard and several Black Kites. At Quinto we turned right onto the N232 towards Azaila, where we saw our first Raven, Crag Martins and Stonechat and another Short-toed Eagle. From Azaila we took the A1404 and the A224 to Escatron then the A221 to Sastago. Just before Sastago we checked the cliffs on the south side of the river and saw Black Wheatear. We also checked the cliffs before Alborge where we also saw a couple of Black Wheatears (in a rubbish dump area). We then drove on to the Los Monegros area via the road from Alborge that joins the A2105 Bujaraloz road. Along the A2105 we had excellent close views of an imm Golden Eagle about 8km S of Laguna la Playa. We then drove down the track to the ruined buildings alongside Laguna la Playa where large numbers of Jackdaws and Lesser Kestrels were breeding. Also in this area were Tawny Pipit, Black-eared Wheatear, Thekla Lark etc. Overnight at Laguna la Playa.
Tuesday 6th June - early morning was spent in the Laguna la Playa area where we saw Short- toed Eagle, Tawny Pipit, Black Kite, etc and then we spent the rest of the morning driving along two tracks in the area. On the first track we saw Spectacled Warbler, a Black-bellied Sandgrouse and Black-eared Wheatear. We also found a Great Bustard feather but unfortunately not the rest of the bird. Along the second track among other birds we saw our first Southern Grey Shrike and flushed a Quail from alongside the track. We then set off along the A2105 and the A230 to Bujaraloz, then on the N11 towards Candasnos. From here we took the A2214 towards Ontinena and turned off on the minor road to Ballobar. From here we took a track parallel to a line of pylons to check a possible site for Dupont‘s Lark. Here we saw numerous Calandra, Lesser Short-toed and Short-toed Larks but failed to find any Dupont’s. We then carried on along this track eventually rejoining the A2214 and then continued to Ontinena. From here we took the A131 (for about 1/2 km) and then the A130 to Alcolca de Cinca and then a minor road to Chalamera. We stopped by the high sandstone cliffs along this road which were excellent for Alpine Swift, Chough, Bee-eater and Kestrel while Nightingales, Cettis, Melodious and Sardinian Warblers, were in the scrub by the roadside. We then continued towards Chalamera stopping briefly at a dump where White Storks, a Cattle Egret and several Black Kites were foraging in the company of a stray dog. We then rejoined the A131 which we followed to Huesca and then on to the low Pyrenees spending the night near Bernues on the road to San Juan de la Pena.
Wednesday 7th June - in the morning we drove to San Juan de la Pena where we had good views of a Black Woodpecker, and several Citril Finch, Black Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher, Crested Tit, Firecrest, Crossbill etc. Later we set off towards Riglos and while driving along the A1205, we stopped to check a raptor by the Anzanigo turn-off and found a White-rumped Swift among a flock of Common Swifts. Further along this road we saw our first Booted Eagle from the car. In the afternoon we arrived at Riglos where we saw another Short-toed Eagle, large numbers of Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Alpine Swifts, Crag Martins, Red-backed Shrike, Dartford, Sardinian and Subalpine Warblers. Unfortunately, parachutists were jumping off the cliffs at Riglos causing some disturbance, and one fell badly within 20 yards of us breaking his leg. This caused us some inconvenience as we had to get help from the village. Later we set off for Jaca and stopped briefly on the A132 while opposite Riglos. Here we saw a male Blue Rock Thrush. From here we set off towards Jaca. At Jaca we visited the town park in the evening where we saw several Scops Owls and heard a Quail in nearby fields. We then spent the night near Bernues.
Thursday 8th June - in the morning we visited San Juan de la Pena early to try again for Black Woodpecker, but this time we were unsuccessful. In the late morning we headed for the Hecho Valley and on the way saw a Booted Eagle near Puente la Reina. At the Boca Del Infierno we had excellent views of a summer plumaged male Wallcreeper and our first views of Lammergeier (two birds). We then travelled further up the Hecho Valley and went a on a short walk in the pine woods on the steep slopes, finding our first Goldcrests and Common Treecreepers. After this we drove further up the valley into an area of cattle pastures, where we saw our only Yellowhammers of the trip. Later we drove back down the valley to the Hoz de Binies in the evening to try for Eagle Owl. Although we had no luck with the Owl we saw plenty of other birds including Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Peregrine, Crag Martin etc. We then drove to Hoz de Lumbier where we spent the night.
Friday 9th June - in the morning we drove to the viewpoint overlooking the Hoz de Arbayun which was excellent for views into Griffon Vultures nests and other birds included two Short-toed Eagles, two Booted Eagles, Alpine Swifts, Subalpine Warblers etc. We then drove onto the NA2200 and then up to the peak of Aranguite. This was fairly quiet due to being rather windy but we did see our first Skylarks of the trip. We then returned to the NA2200 and stopped at an area of low scrub which was good for Cirl Buntings, Red-backed Shrike, Woodlark etc. We then set off towards Salvatierra de Esca, stopping on the way at Castillo-Nuevo where there were two adult Golden Eagles soaring over the cliffs above the village. We then turned left onto the NA131 into the Roncal Valley. At the entrance of the Burgui Gorge we had excellent views of two adult Lammergeiers. We then moved up the Roncal Valley to the Belagua refuge where we saw our first Alpine Chough and Water Pipits in an area of alpine pastures. From the refuge we walked into some nearby ancient beech-woods to try for White-backed Woodpecker. After about one or two km we strayed from the path in the wood and were stopped in our tracks by what at first appeared to be a barking dog very close. However we soon realised that this was a Brown Bear just in front of us and it did not sound at all pleased to see us. We decided to return to the path and find another way through the wood. Shortly after this it began raining very heavily and we got very wet as we returned to the refuge. Later this rain turned to snow as we drove back down the valley and spent the night at Hoz de Binies.
Saturday 10th June - in the morning we drove up the Anso valley stopping in an area of scrub. Here we had excellent views of a Lammergeier as it circled about 30-40 feet above our heads for several minutes as it appeared to be checking us out. In the same area we saw Orphean and Subalpine Warblers etc. We then travelled across to the lower Hecho Valley stopping at a dump near Siresa where there were Red and Black Kites, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Booted Eagle and an Alpine Swift. We then drove lower down the valley and stopped in an area of scrub and poplars by the River Aragon Subordain just N of Puente la Reina. Here we saw Common Sandpipers, Water Rail, etc. We then drove past San Juan de la Pena and spent the night near Bernues.
Sunday 11th June - in morning we again visited San Juan de la Pena then returned to the Anso Valley stopping in a lay-by at the entrance to Hoz de Binies. This was excellent as we saw large numbers of very close Alpine Swifts, Honey Buzzard, Short-toed and Booted Eagle, Lammergeier, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Red and Black Kites while, Golden Orioles and various Warblers etc were in the trees and scrub by the river. We then moved further up the valley to Zuriza where we saw our first Tree Pipits, before attempting to climb a steep scree slope were we saw Alpine Accentor, Rock Thrush, lots of Citril Finch and Chamois, while two Black Woodpeckers showed well on the edge of a nearby Beechwood. We then drove back down the Anso Valley and turned left onto the N240 for Jaca, then on the N330 towards Sabinanigo, turning onto the N260 and staying overnight near the Olivian/Oros turn-off.
Monday 12th June - in the morning we found this area to be excellent for Golden Oriole, Hoopoe and Firecrest etc. Later in the morning we drove to the Portalet Pass where we saw two pairs of Rock Thrush, c50 Alpine Chough, Water Pipits and numerous Marmots etc. We then drove back down the N260 turning onto the N260 towards Torla, calling briefly in the Ordessa National Park, before moving on and staying overnight near Asin de Broto where we saw Wryneck and Short- toed Eagle, Lammergeier etc.
Tuesday 13th June - in the morning we headed for France on the A138 via the Bielsa Tunnel and drove to Col de Tourmalet. This was excellent for Snow Finch, as several pairs appeared to be breeding in the chair-lift supports. We also saw a male Rock Thrush singing from the balconies of one of the Ski-Resort hotels, as well as an immature Goshawk and numerous Water Pipits and Wheatears etc. Later we set off back towards Spain and on the way we stopped by the roadside c14km before the Bielsa Tunnel. Here we saw two Short-toed Eagles, Lammergeier, Common Buzzard etc. Back in Spain a brief stop in Lafortunada produced Honey Buzzard, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and Red Kite. A stop for shopping in Ainsa produced Red Kite, Cettis Warbler and Nightingale. As we continued S on the A138 a male Marsh Harrier flew over the road near Embalse de Grado. We then drove onto the A1226 between Barbastro and Fornillos. The first stop along this road produced Southern Grey Shrike, Golden Oriole, Hoopoe, Hobby etc, then further down the road we saw our first Roller. On a drive down this road we saw at least 15-20 Southern Grey Shrikes, before returning to spend the night in the area. In the late evening a Red-necked Nightjar was calling nearby but we did not manage to see it
Wednesday 14th June - in the early morning we again heard the Red-necked Nightjar and during the morning we saw several Southern Grey Shrikes, Thekla Larks, Black-eared Wheatear, Stone Curlew, White Storks, and watched three Rollers performing their rolling display flight while two male Little Bustards flew into the olive grove below them. We then set off towards the Balaguer area via the A1224. Large numbers of White Storks were nesting on disused pylons along this road and at Seluga several pairs were nesting on the church, while on nearby paddyfields there were Black-winged Stilts and Cattle Egrets. We then made our way towards St Lorenc Lake, seeing a Short-toed Eagle at Cubells on the way. At the lake we saw Purple Heron and had excellent views of Great Reed Warblers, etc before eventually seeing our target species here, two Bonelli’s Eagles. We then set off for the Balaguer Plains where we saw six Rollers performing their rolling display flight together while up to five Montagu’s Harriers (including a rare melanistic one) quartered the nearby fields. We also saw four Little Bustards (three males and one female), Melodious Warbler and in the evening had good views of three Red-necked Nightjar, while a Scops Owl and Quail called nearby. We then drove N on the C1313 and onto the L401 staying overnight near Alinya.
Thursday 15th June - in the morning from the car park at Reserva Muntanya Alinya we saw two adult Golden Eagles, Peregrine, Woodlark and Bonelli’s Warblers before setting off in the direction of Berga. Just after Cambrills we stopped and saw Red-backed Shrike and had brief views of a Wryneck. A further stop between Cambrills and Oden produced a male Rock Thrush singing on a pylon and numerous Subalpine Warblers in the nearby scrub. Just before the 24km marker we stopped and saw Southern Grey Shrike, Tawny Pipit and saw one male Ortolan Bunting and heard several others singing in the same area. We then carried on to St Lorenc de Morunis and on the BV4241 to Berga, then the C149 towards Ripoll. A stop in a woodland area along the way produced several Honey Buzzards. From here we took the C151 and then the C153 to Olot and then the N260 to Fuigueras. Then we took the C260 to Castello de Empuries and turned off on a minor road towards Aiguamolls d’Emporda, calling at the El Cortalet Information Centre. We then walked around the reserve which was very good. Large numbers of White Storks were breeding close to the paths (part of a reintroduction scheme) and we saw several Purple Gallinule. Several birds were new for the trip, including Lapwing, Black-tailed Godwit, Curlew, Shoveler, Spoonbill, Shelduck and Mute Swan. We stayed in this area overnight.
Friday 16th June - in the morning we visited the hides again before moving to the northern part of the reserve and walking to the Vilaut. hide. On this walk we saw two Lesser Grey Shrike as well as Southern Grey and Woodchat and from the hide we saw a Roller among other things, though it was unbearably hot. In the Afternoon we drove out to Cabo de Creus which was excellent for Pallid Swift, Blue Rock Thrush and Sardinian Warbler. We also saw Thekla Lark, Shag, Gannet, Black-eared Wheatear and Balearic Shearwater. In the late afternoon we set off for the hills inland from Barcelona staying overnight near St Cristofol which was close to Montserrat. Here we heard Nightjar in the evening.
Saturday 17th June - early in the morning we heard the Nightjar again as well as Woodlark, Sardinian Warbler etc. We then set off for the Llobregat Delta alongside Barcelona Airport. This reserve was very good and we saw among other things various Herons and numerous Monk Parakeets and two male Penduline Tits one of which was building a nest. We then returned to Barcelona airport in the evening for flight 21.3Ohrs only to be told this was cancelled due to Air Traffic Control systems in Britain being disrupted due to computer failure. Eventually we caught another flight to Heathrow and returned to Liverpool via the London Underground, then a train from Euston Station - Liverpool and finally a taxi to Liverpool Airport.