In April 2004 six of us took a trip to southern Poland, hiring a local Polish Guide, Felix Felger
to search for some of the specialities there. Felix is extremely knowledgeable about all the wildlife
plants and history of the area as well as the birds. He also runs tours for butterflies and flowers.
His e-mail address is felix4@poczta.onet.pl
It is worth remembering that much of the habitat in this area is mountainous and very few roads
reach some of the more remote areas. Consequently some of the birding sites entail long walks,
occasionally with steep climbs, and therefore require a reasonable degree of fitness.
We flew with LOT Polish airlines from Manchester to Krakow via Warsaw.
21st April
Our flight arrived on time and about ten minutes later we were met by our guide Felix.
Around the airport were Swallow, Lesser Whitethroat, Blackcap, Mistle Thrush, and the monedula
race of Jackdaw. We left the airport and drove to the Wolski Forest, a superb area of woodland
with many old trees. This is the city park of Krakow and apparently is the largest City Park in
Europe. Here we first went for drinks and food at the park café. Around the café we saw several
Hawfinch, Redstart and several pairs of Tree Sparrows were nesting in the walls of the building.
After we had eaten, we went for a short walk and saw several Collared Flycatcher, Middle and
Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Raven, several Hawfinch, a Treecreeper sp (which did not call), and
heard Wood Warbler and Firecrest. After this we set off into Krakow itself staying in a Hotel
near the centre. Around the central part of the City is a belt of trees, which apparently even
has breeding Wryneck in summer. After checking in our hotel we walked a short distance into the
main square to eat. Krakow is a very impressive and beautiful city with many old buildings.
While walking around the city we saw several Swifts and heard Black Redstart.
22nd April
In the morning we set off for another part of Wolski Forest seeing a Black Stork in a drainage
ditch along the way. In this part of the forest we had excellent views of Lesser Spotted Woodpecker
as well as Great and Middle Spotted again and heard a distant Cuckoo, Green Woodpecker and a Wood
Warbler. We also saw a Yellow-legged Tortoiseshell butterfly here.
We then set off for an area of fishponds to the south of Krakow en route seeing several White Storks
on nests. First we stopped at an area of Scrub and woodland where a Syrian Woodpecker had bred with
a Great Spotted the previous year but we only found Great Spotted, plus a few Tree Pipits and
Yellowhammers and both Chiffchaff and Willow Warblers. Next we stopped by some gravel pits,
where good numbers of Caspian Gulls were present amongst a large colony of Black-headed Gulls.
On an Island in the middle of the gravel pits several pairs of Night Herons were nesting in the bushes
Also here we saw good numbers of Great Crested Grebes, Gadwall, Tufted Duck,
Mute Swan, Tree Sparrows and Reed bunting. Later we continued on to the Fishponds, where we
saw many wildfowl including a few Greylag Geese, Penduline Tit, Savi's Warblers, Great Reed
Warblers, Black-necked Grebe and had excellent views of a Bittern as it swam accross a gap in the
reeds very close to the minibus.
Later we went to another area of fishponds where we found four Great White Egrets among large
numbers of Grey Heron and found some Fire-bellied Toads. Later in the afternoon we drove to
Zawoja near Babia Gora, where we spent the next five nights.
Fire-bellied Toad Babia Gora
23rd April
In the morning I walked down to the river and saw Dipper, Grey Wagtail, Tree Pipit and Redstart.
Black Redstarts and White Wagtails were common around the village. While waiting to board the
minibus we picked up a Goshawk over the woods west of Zawoja. We then set off and stopped first at
a museum showing the old architecture of the area. Here we saw Serin. From here we set off
towards Lake Orawa and on the way we stopped at a high point to scan for raptors. After a short
while we spotted a distant Lesser Spotted Eagle. We then set off for the lake. Here we saw at
least four more Lesser Spotted Eagles soaring over the lakeside forests, though mainly on the Slovakian side
of the lake. In a lakeside meadow was a Common Crane. Ducks present here included Gadwall,
Shoveler, and Garganey. Other birds seen here included Marsh Harrier, Raven, White Stork,
Blue-headed Wagtail, and Common Tern.
After this we set off for a walk over Aohala Peat Bog, which is apparently usually good for Harriers
though none were present during our visit. We did see another distant Lesser Spotted Eagle, Lapwings,
Whinchat, Raven and several rare plants.
We then stopped for drinks at a nearby restaurant where we saw Black Redstart, Great Spotted
Woodpecker and watched Fieldfares mobbing a Hooded Crow.
24th April
This morning several of us we got up early and set off at 4.45am back to the peat bog to see the
Black Grouse lek. We saw 19 male and two females, though we observed them from a safe distance of
over 200 metres in order not to disturb them. Also here we saw Great Grey Shrike, Whinchat,
Meadow Pipits, Tree Pipits, and Black Stork. On the way back to Zawoja we saw a roadside Common
Buzzard before we drove into heavy rain. Most of the rest of the morning and early afternoon was
spent near the hotel waiting for the weather to improve. A short walk down to the river again
produced Dipper. Later in the Afternoon we drove around to the other side of Babia Gora in hope
that the weather might be better there, and went a walk along the forest tracks. Here we saw
Firecrest, Goldcrest, Crested Tit, Crossbills, a female Pied Flycatcher and heard a Hazelhen calling
though it did not show itself.
Black Grouse at lek High Tatras as a backdrop
25th April
In the morning the weather was again not particularly good. A short walk before breakfast down to
the river to the east of town produced a couple of Crossbills and Raven. Later in the morning we
went for a walk to an area of ancient forest on Babia Gora. On the way up we saw Dipper, Grey
Wagtail, Firecrest, Siskin and Treecreeper. When we reached the area of ancient forest (after a
steep climb) I heard a White-backed Woodpecker but it did not show itself. While searching for
the White-backed Woodpecker we saw several Nuthatch and I heard a sudden nearby flurry of wings
that was probably a Hazelhen taking flight.
After lunch we decided to set off for the Pieninny Mountains in search of better weather. On the
way a stop at a garage for drinks produced a Hobby and several soaring Black Storks. A little
further along we stopped to view an area of Beaver dams. As we got nearer to the Pieninny Mountains
we stopped for a short while alongside the road. Here we saw Peregrine and heard Corn Bunting
and a distant Black Woodpecker. At the Pieninny Refuge we set off on a walk and quickly found
several Long-tailed Tits of the white-headed race caudatus. We the continued up the mountains,
though only four of us continued as the climb got steeper. Halfway up we had superb views of a
female Three-toed Woodpecker. Other birds seen on the climb included Firecrest, Goldcrest and
Crested Tits. Near the top we had excellent views of two Nutcrackers and we heard a probable
White-backed Woodpecker calling from a suitable looking area of Beech woodland.
Pieninny Mountains Nutcracker
26th April
Again the weather at Zawoja did not look too promising as we set off up a different area of Babia
Gora. Here we saw Dipper, Firecrest, Jay and Crested Tit. We were also shown an old nest hole of
White-backed Woodpecker, but again no sign of the birds. A while later we tried another area of
Babia Gora and here we saw Black Woodpecker.
Later we set off on the walk leading to the Mountain refuge at Babia Gora. As we got near to the
refuge we had good views of a Pygmy Owl as it hunted Crested and Coal Tits. After a short break
for drinks in the refuge we went on another short walk looking for Hazelhen. We found droppings
and where they had been roosting in the snow but again there was no sign of the birds.
We then set off back down the mountain. On the way down the mountain we saw Woodcock and heard
Tawny Owl.
27th April
Another pre-breakfast walk in another different part of Babia Gora produced good views of a female
Black Woodpecker and about ten Red Deer. We also found Wolf tracks in this area. After breakfast
we drove back to the fishponds area. At the first ponds we stopped at we saw several Little Gull,
several Whiskered Terns and numerous Black-necked Grebes. Later several of the group went to
visit Auschwitz while the rest of us walked around the fishponds.
Later we set off for Neopolomice Forest, a large area of woodland southeast of Krakow. Here we set
off on a walk to look for Ural Owl. On the way we saw several Collared Flycatcher, Wood Warbler a
Hoopoe and numerous Hawfinch. The walk, although quite easy, proved too much for the tired group
and I was the only one who made it to the best site for the Ural Owl. The Owl performed superbly
flying in looking like a huge grey Buzzard gliding through the trees. It then perched up nearby
and I was able to scope the bird for at least 30 minutes. Driving back out of the forest we saw
a Racoon Dog and a small group of Wild Boar.
Collared Flycatcher In the Ancient Forest
28th April
On our last morning we tried an area of fishponds near to Neopolomice Forest looking for Grey-headed
Woodpecker, but without success, though we did see Whinchat, Great Reed Warbler and heard a distant
Woodlark. Next we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking rough grassland and scrub alongside the
Vistula River where there are often harriers but not on this occasion. We then drove into a
different part of the forest to try again for Grey-headed Woodpecker. Again no luck but we did
see Middle-spotted Woodpecker, Redstart, Wood Warbler, and many Hawfinch.
We then went into an area of Ancient Forest and saw Middle-spotted Woodpecker, Treecreeper, Redstart,
many Collared Flycatchers.
Shortly after this we set off back to Krakow for a farewell drink and then returned to the airport
for our flight home.
I am planning a return trip in 2006 a little earlier in April when the Woodpeckers, Owls and Hazelhen are easiest to see. Felix has recently found new sites for many of the species. Many of these new sites are closer to roads and are therefore easier to reach without such long walks. Species could include all the Woodpeckers except Wryneck (too early), Tengmalm's, Pygmy, Ural and Eagle Owls, and Hazelhen. If you are interested in joining me on this trip please contact me for details, including prices etc.