Lesbos 3rd – 10th May 2007 |
Introduction
This year we booked via a brochure and Ilkeston Co-op travel. They took the hassle out of the arrangements and we could not improve on the flight price anywhere on the web. We arranged to stay self catering at Anaxos in the north, and paid £211 each for the apartment and flight via Kosmar holidays. We booked our own car parking at Manchester (£38 on site) and hired our own car to collect at our destination, so avoiding lengthy transfers. Despite Manchester’s best efforts at delay (3 hour check in) we did land on time and quickly collected our Hyundai Getz, an economical 4 door car with air conditioning. The suspension would get a good grilling over the next 7 days on the local “roads”!! We had a basic map, Richard Brooks book and various other trip reports to assist us.
The plane was full of birders, some known to us and others not, and by and large all were very willing to share info and tips. Three on the flight were particularly well known to us (and others for that matter!) and the fact that they were staying just along the coast at Petra meant that we could share our successes throughout the week and sample recommended Greek cuisine.
There now follows brief highlights, the list of species seen and digiscoped photos which are just intended as record shots of some of the more photographable birds.
Birding the Island – day one, 3rd May
On negotiating our way out of the airport and through Mitilini, we headed in the general direction of our accommodation and
made our first stop at some coastal pools in the general area known as “Derbyshire”.
We immediately started recording birds, with our first being Ruddy Shelduck (8) and Short-toed Eagle as flyovers. The small
reed fringed pool held 3 Temmincks Stints, Little, Whiskered, Black and Common Terns and some superb Black-headed Wagtails.
A lone Black Stork circled above us as we started to explore around the pools.
There were Great White (2) and Little Egret here and then a juvenile Purple Heron appeared in the reeds (see photos). Little
Ringed Plover and Green Sandpiper showed well on the muddy edge, and we were entertained by numerous Stonechats and Whinchats
in fantastic breeding nick. Red-throated Pipit was a real bonus here.
It was time to recover our composure and consider our next move. We were very close to the Krupers Nuthatch site at Achladeri,
and decided as it was still early afternoon to give the well known nest some time……………….. Ten minutes later we parked in the
army camp (thankfully deserted) and bumped into our friends – the bad news was that the chicks fledged yesterday! Some birds
have no sense of timing! The family had moved deeper into the wood and would take some finding now.
Nevertheless, we had some good birds whilst looking – Red-backed Shrike, Masked Shrike (and nest), Woodchat Shrike, Spotted
Flycatcher, Jay (the black capped form here) and Black-headed Bunting. Olivaceous Warbler showed well, and we were soon to
realise that this is a very common warbler on Lesbos.
We decided to retire and find our accommodation, vowing to return to look for Krupers Nuthatch again this week. We did have
one more surprise before we retired to eat as we stopped at a well known Scops Owl roost alongside a football pitch. The bird
was there true to form roosting in a giant eucalyptus tree.
Day two – 4th May 2007
Having had time to plan with Brooks book, we decided upon a full day trip to Sigri and the area via Ipsolou Monastery. We
were hoping for some of the areas specialist birds and obviously migrants as we go.
It has started to become clear that the island had suffered one of the driest winters for years. We already knew the area
around the saltpans was lacking in water, but word reached us that Kalloni Pool was completely dried out, as was the East
River. This was going to have a major impact upon some of the water birds we had hoped to see……..
We were going to look for a couple more wet habitats today, and just hoped they too had not dried up.
We found our first habitat stop by accident, just taking one right turn before we intended. We stopped by an old bridge in a
valley bottom that was very lush with vegetation, and found our first Persian Squirrel. Birds were coming down to drink and
we added many new birds in a short space of time – highlights were Blackcap, Turtle Dove, White Wagtail, Subalpine Warbler,
Wood Warbler (2), Nightingale, Cettis Warbler, Nuthatch and many Red-rumped Swallows in with the hirundines and swifts. We
soon realised that there must have been a major Spotted Flycatcher “fall” as they were seemingly everywhere.
We reoriented ourselves and stopped on what was known as “Oriole Road” by a couple who visited year after year. Needless to
say, no Orioles. However, the whole area of fields full of olive trees and small oaks was excellent for many common birds and
in addition Whitethroat, Corn Bunting (common), Sparrowhawk, Sombre Tits, Short Toed Eagle (6 birds seen), Long Legged
Buzzard, Hoopoe, Woodlark and Peregrine (4 seen). Red Backed Shrike, Black Headed Bunting and Whinchat were seemingly
everywhere and we spent an hour watching this area.
Eventually we dragged ourselves away to view a rocky outcrop known as Grand Canyon. Here we added Cirl Buntings, Crag Martins,
Black Eared Wheatear and Blue Rock Thrush. A little further along we picked up 2 Cuckoos at the triangle and then arrived at
the Monastery. This impressive place can be driven right up to, and as we did we found Isabelline Wheatear below the rocky
walls. We were soon moved on by an Army Official (who should really have been looking for Turks!!) and so parked at the top
next to the Monastery itself. The views were superb and we added nesting Rock Sparrow, Long Legged Buzzard and Lesser
Whitethroat.
You could well imagine raptors streaming up the valleys here and circling the thermals, but not today. We pressed on and
naively, as it turned out, drove down the exit side right past numerous Cinereous and Cretzschmars Buntings. Still, a
reason to return later in the week.
We arrived at Sigri and stopped for lunch (with hundreds of school children!), then pressing on we parked up and headed to
Faneromeni ford. The whole area of lush fields at a coastal location was fantastic and held many migrants already mentioned.
Bee-eaters were numerous overhead and Spotted Flycatcher and Red Backed Shrikes were very common. Just before the ford,
we stopped and listened to Olive Tree Warbler eventually getting superb views. These fields too were inhabited by various
races of Yellow Wagtail and other common Warblers.The ford itself was completely dried up, but we found Middle Spotted
Woodpecker nesting, Cettis and Great Reed warbler showing well and more Bee-eaters overhead. Returning back along the road it
was clear that birds were coming in all the time and with the farmer ploughing his fields we scored with many Lesser Kestrels
and many Shrikes, including our first Lesser Grey.
We pressed on to our next ford – known as Sigri ford, which apparently was still wet! The long bumpy drive seemed to take
forever, but we did pick up Rock Nuthatch on the way. When we finally reached the ford it was a very interesting area of reed
bed and open water and looked superb for all sorts of species. We were told that a Baillons Crake was showing and so enjoyed
very close views of this first. Then scanning around added Little Bittern (2), Cettis Warbler, Little Egret, Nightingale,
Ashy Headed Wagtail and finally a little Crake! Two Crake species on one small pool! We then witnessed something new for all
of us – a pair of Peregrines hunting in tandem, catching an Alpine Swift! Whilst chased and distracted by the male Falcon,
the swift was taken by the female and then promptly plucked and eaten in full view. This was the only Alpine Swift we saw all
week!
On the long drive home we stopped at many sites in the book that were good for Cinereous Bunting (not realising then that we
had driven past them at the monastery) but maybe it was too late in the day. We saw several Cretzschmars buntings (our first
of the trip) and scored with Raven on a rubbish tip.
Day three – 5th May 2007
Our first stop was the layby at Petra headland – our target Ruppells warbler. The whole area was great for birds and we soon
picked up our only Cormorant (not common on Lesbos), Shag, Black Eared Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Cretzschmars Buntings,
Subalpine Warbler, nesting Peregrine, our first Orphean Warbler, and plentiful Turtle Doves, Red-rumped Swallow, Red-backed
Shrike and Cirl Buntings. Ruppells eventually showed really well and this became a very reliable site for in excess of 3 pairs.
Four Med Gulls on the sea were a trip bonus.
News that the Krupers Nuthatch family had been relocated meant that our next stop would be Achladeri pines, picking up Hoopoe
and Black Stork along the way. At the pines, the Nuthatches were feeding young deeper in the woods and showed well eventually.
However, the close proximity of a tour party left a lot to be desired and we soon departed for the salt pans.
Our first real look at the area revealed how dried up they were. Still we did pick up the expected Avocet, Stilts, Wood
Sandpiper, Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers, Flamingos and Terns. We drove round to the salt works, where we got nesting
Stone Curlew and found other species to be very numerous – Bee-eaters, Red Backed Shrike, Crested Lark, Corn Bunting,
Black-headed Wagtail and Short-toed Lark
We found our first Squacco Heron and tracked down a superb Rufous Bush Robin hunting catrerpillars. More Red-throated Pipits
were at the back of the dried pools, and we recorded all the Plovers – Ringed, Little Ringed and Kentish (the most common one).
After a light salad lunch we decided to find a new reservoir at the entrance to Potamia Valley. Very low on water and only
concrete (no mud) for birds to inhabit. Two Common Buzzards and numerous Little Grebes were found as were thousands of
loafing Yellow Legged Gulls. A good scan revealed 2 Lesser Black Backed gulls and a tricky first summer Med gull.
Our final destination of the day was the Inland Lake. Again this had not dried up and proved good for all the usual warbler
species, including Cettis and Great Reed, our first Sedge and Reed and hundreds of hirundines. We recorded Crested Lark all
over this area, as well as Woodchat Shrike, Stonechat and Whinchat. Cuckoo was another bonus as were reptiles and amphibians
– two terrapin species in their hundreds, lizards and a Tree Frog. Butterflies were very numerous including the superb
Swallowtails. Little Crakes were known to be present, but didn’t show, nor did raptors for which the area was supposedly
excellent.
Day four – 6th May 2007
Another very warm day, with our first stop again at Petra headland. All of yesterdays birds again present, but with better
views of Orphean warbler. We also got distant views of a Chukar on a rocky outcrop. This bird caused some debate as its
white throat patch suggested a possible Rock Partridge. Brooks does not record Rock Partridge on the island and so for the
time being at least it went in the record as Chukar, with further clarification to follow.
Moving down to the salt pans meant we repeated many of the waders, but added White Stork. We also got news of a Spur Winged
Plover in one of the sheep fields. One was claimed earlier in the week from the new Reservoir, but hadn’t been seen since.
This one would be a major bonus if it was still showing.
And showing it was! At the back of the field but affording good scope views and the opportunity for record digiscoped shots.
We deliberated on our next move as the heat was increasing, and decided upon the short drive up the East river bed before
lunch. The whole valley was a superb area with mixed habitat, including some water in the river bottom upstream.
We picked up Little Egrets, Wood Sandpiper and Ruddy Shelduck on the water, with Black Stork (2) overhead. We parked
alongside some lush fields in the valley to scan and quickly picked up a superb Barred Warbler close to the car. In the same
area were a family party of Sombre Tits (6 young), two Bush Robins showing well (and chasing the Barred Warbler), nesting
Orphean Warbler, Nightingale, Great Reed Warbler, Subalpine Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and Tawny Pipit (our first).
An unusual sight was one small tree holding Woodchat, Lesser Grey and Red Backed Shrikes all at the same time – they were all
using it to hunt the field from. We mused again about missing Cinereous Bunting and so decided after lunch to make the short
drive to Devils Bridge and climb the steps to the small chapel which supposedly holds the buntings.
It did provide superb elevated views, and Rock Nuthatch, Spotted Flycatchers, Red Rumped Swallows and Cretzschmars buntings –
but still no Cinereous. Even the resident Little Owls were hiding away. On the drive home we found more wetland that was wet!
Parakila Marsh.
Here we had Little Bittern, Stilts, Cettis, Olivaceous warblers and Cuckoo. The area looked excellent and more time could
well have revealed Crakes etc, but we had decided to find Petra Reservoir before our evening meal as River Warblers had been
heard singing and there had been a male Citrine Wagtail recently.
The reservoir was easy enough to find and still held water! We had a good couple of hours to take in the area and added new
birds for the trip – Ferruginous Duck, Ruff, Redshank, Common Sandpiper. There was another Squacco Heron here, Ruddy Shelduck,
Wood Sandpiper, lots of Gulls and all the now familiar warblers.
The Wagtail had moved on and the River Warblers didn’t sing, but we concluded with Peregrine and Lesser Kestrel overhead, and
were serenaded by many Great Reed Warblers, Nightingales and Cettis. We had a quick scan for Bonellis Eagles as they apparently
frequent the mountains and had bred last year in the hills above Anaxos overlooking our apartment – no joy now though.
Day five – 7th May 2007
We had decided upon the drive through the NapiValley today and chose a route taking in some farmland, valleys and the
Kremasi Bridge. Before the bridge we had good views of Goshawk with prey, Hoopoe, Peregrine, Turtle Dove and Red Rumped
Swallows.
On stopping to photograph the bridge, we flushed Squacco and recorded Spanish Sparrow, Black-eared Wheatear, Bee-eater,
Nightingale, Olivaceous Warbler, Great Reed Warbler (prolonged close views) and Yellow Wagtail. The farm roof yielded Little
Owl at last and so we progressed into the Valley at Napi proper.
Orphean Warbler showed well from the car, and we saw Rock Nuthatch nesting and Hoopoe again. The valley itself was excellent
for Crested Lark, Cirl Bunting, Woodlark and Sombre Tit. We also had a good run of raptors - three Short-toed Eagles (inc. a
very pale bird), Sparrowhawk, Common and Long-legged Buzzard.
The Olive Tree warbler site at the end held two birds, as well as nesting Masked Shrike and a Stoat! We recorded various
lizards and snakes here too, in addition to some rather large spiders. We spent some time at a good Oriole spot, but it was
the middle of the day and too hot – all the birds just seemed to disappear for an hour or more.
Time to move on and enjoy the air conditioning, and so we made our way back to the saltpans and the hide on stilts. Here we
got Glossy Ibis, Great White Egret, Little Egrets, White Stork, Black Stork and another new record – two Slender-billed Gulls
freshly in. A female Red-footed Falcon gave us the run around in the Derbyshire area, but we persisted as it was our only one
so far and she showed well eventually on the telegraph wires.
Back on the saltpans we spent the last hour watching terns feeding (Little, Whiskered, Common) and waders galore. We then
enjoyed two strokes of luck – a Dutch tour leader picked up a Citrine Wagtail on the pools we started with on day one, which
showed really well and we found our own flock of White-winged Black Terns (6) which showed superbly in the late evening light
patrolling up and down the pools over the Flamingos. They were obviously just freshly arrived and were feeding up – right
place right time as we were sure they wouldn’t hang around. A fitting end to a great day.
Day six – 8th May 2007
Having had such a great day at Sigri before, we decided upon another visit in order to nail Cinereous Bunting en route at
Ipsolou this time!
We had noticed that many common migrants had been much reduced in number over the last day or so (especially Spotted Flys and
Shrikes) but hoped that the green fields around Sigri might hold some new birds coming through (Pied type Flycatchers perhaps
and Orioles) and that Ipsolou would have raptors streaming past (Eleanoras, Red-foots, Hobby and Lesser Kestrel).
Our first stop was the “Oriole Road” again en route, which produced a good list of now familiar species – Masked Shrike, Cirl
Bunting, Crested Lark, Subalpine Warbler, Red-backed Shrike, Spanish Sparrow, Lesser Whitethroat, Hoopoe, Turtle Dove and
Buzzard. Red-rumped Swallows were still numerous as were Olivaceous Warblers. In order to maximise time at the coast we
rattled on to the monastery.
This time we approached the ‘exit’ side of the monastery first and soon found numerous Cretzschmars Buntings, Northern
Wheatear (new for the week), Black-eared Wheatear and Rock Nuthatch on territory. Soon after the call of Cinereous Bunting
was picked up and we photographed them under the monastery. At last we had them safely in the bag – they were actually quite
numerous here and it just goes to show that if you persist in the right area you should be lucky. Around the buildings
themselves were Corn and Black-headed Bunting with nesting Rock Sparrow.
We dropped down to the coast as raptors were still not showing around the monastery, and found at least three Shags in the
harbour at Sigri. A quick lunch (which saw Dave presented with raw Tuna!) was followed by a slow wander towards Faneromeni.
We got on to the beach here and found Ringed and Little Ringed Plover on the beach along with a fine Tortoise, but no
Shearwaters. Black-winged Stilt, Little Stint and Curlew Sandpiper were amongst the waders, and we had many more Bee-eaters
and Red-rumped Swallows. Further along we saw Cettis and Great Reed Warblers and had close views of a Bushchat on the
telephone wires. We admired half a dozen Lesser Kestrels hawking insects over the fields here and then learned that we had
walked past a pair of Golden Orioles. These had already proved elusive so we decided to grill the relevant fields and sure
enough they eventually showed several times.
Having added nothing new in the ford area we headed back inland towards the monastery and watched more Lesser Kestrels on the
thermals. There were no more raptors around the monastery (but we did add Chiffchaff and Blue Tit to the list here) and so we
stopped again at the bottom having heard more Orioles and seen another Chukar. Whilst here we noticed many small birds
mobbing something in a dry stone wall. Rock Nuthatch were going mad and they were soon joined by several Buntings and Wheatears.
We had seen a cat around earlier but on closer inspection stumbled across a rather large and angry Ottoman Viper! It hissed
and soon departed allowing a few quick photos. What a fantastic specimen; much more impressive than all the other snakes we
had seen this week. On returning to the car a Peregrine flashed by a few feet from my head in hot pursuit, hugging the
contours and away at speed. The Orioles were not showing and so we headed back towards Anaxos, noting Isabelline Wheatear and
Short-toed Eagle on the way. A quick scan for Bonellis Eagles ended another wonderful day.
Day seven – 9th May 2007
This was to be our last full day, and so having taken a vote on the destination we decided upon the East River, Salt Pans and
Inland Lake as they had proved a good combination earlier in the week.
We set off up the East River first, finding Wood Sandpiper, Cirl Bunting, Whitethroat and the family group of Sombre Tits
again. Scanning the area close to the fields we found two more Bushchats and one bush with three Shrikes – Woodchat, Red-backed
and Lesser Grey all at once!
We were especially keen on giving Great Spotted Cuckoo another chance here as two had been seen on and off all week.
Eventually we heard one and then had close views of a juvenile as it was mobbed by the Bushchats. At this moment another birder
approached and said he had just been watching a Roller down the road! He was gutted at missing the Cuckoo but we were off in
search of another good bird!
We toured the lanes around some grain silos for a while without luck, and then on checking a distant dead tree we stumbled
across this cracking bird – and then there were two! Both birds stayed in the same general area showing well and hunting over
the green fields. What a result – Great Spotted Cuckoo and Roller in a few minutes.
We decided to check the hide on stilts over looking the salt pans, which we had just emptied with news of the good birds we
had just seen back up the track. From here we had many Flamingos, Avocet, Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint, Black-winged Stilts,
Kentish Plovers and Stone Curlew. Whilst watching Great White and Little Egrets in the channels we also got distant views of
a young Harrier quartering the marsh. It was thought to be a Montys, but was eventually confirmed as a juvenile Pallid
Harrier – another new bird for the trip.
After a leisurely lunch to escape from the heat of the day we decided upon the Inland Lake again as it was still holding
water nicely. Nothing new but close views of Olivaceous warbler, Nightingale, Cettis, Hoopoe, Masked Shrike and Red-rumped
Swallows. The Tree Frogs were excellent here too.
We ended the day with another look at the roosting Scops Owl, giving better photo opportunities today, and a brief search
around Anoxos without luck for Nightjars.
Day eight – 10th May 2007
Our final day and drive to the airport. There was no real time for much birding en route, but we did find time to call in at
our favourite spot near “Derbyshire” and the Saltpans hide. Curlew Sandpiper numbers had built up into many hundred now and
we had a nice group of four adult Med Gulls fly over calling.
So that was it – the end of a great week, having seen many new birds really well.