Had a good night’s sleep and a big breakfast and then discovered that there is a memorial wall
on the sea front to Wainwright, so off I duly trotted to have a look and take a photo of it.
There I met my first other
C to C’er, a guy called James and he was carrying a BIG load ( 55lbs) and he was spending his first night at
Ennerdale Bridge same as me, so we arranged to meet for a pint at The Shepherds Arms where I was
going to stay.
My walk today was only going to be about 11miles, as I had done the headland part yesterday.
I headed across country towards Cleator, but soon found that the footpaths shown on the map were hard
to find on the ground and it was here I experienced my first nettle stings etc., Lovely, I thought, but calmed
down when I had a big orange ice lolly at Cleator.
My first climb loomed ahead, Dent Hill, but I took it steady and was rewarded with great views back to the
Irish Sea and inland towards Lakeland.
A very steep downhill got me to Nannycatch gate, where I had a nice brew up when I reached Ravens Crag.
Oh yes, one must carry a little stove for ones little luxuries.
Got a lovely photo of a Herdwick sheep on a crag here. I had started to wear my neck chief on my head by
this time as the flies were becoming a bloody menace. I bet I looked a right Tigger!!
The walk through Nannycatch reminded me of Dovedale in Derbyshire.
It had started to spot with rain as I finished my brew up and as I write this in the hotel it is now raining
quite heavy.
Did my bit of laundry and set it out to dry in the hotel laundry room.
Met James and we had a meal and a couple of pints together. He is camping ……..poor sod and it’s still
throwing it down.
We met an American girl doing C to C, but R H’s B to St Bees
I had set off from St Bees at 09.45, arrived Ennerdale Bridge 14.55
The Shepherds Arms is very nice and my room was fine, but a bit pricy.
I had a Steak and Ale Pie for dinner washed down with a couple of pints of best bitter.
|
|
|
|
Wainwright'sWall |
Wetting BootsSt Bees Beach |
Herdwick SheepRaven's Crag |
Shepherd'sArms |
Friday 23rd July Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite 14½ miles
It had been raining on and off during the night, but by the time I had breakfast it was a bright day.
On my way I met James again, on his way to find a phonebox, he said he had a cold coming on………..
I never saw him again.
Going well I had covered three miles in the first hour, so I slowed down and had a little scramble round
Anglers crag. It was hard going mainly due to my heavy Bergen. Left right left right I went up Ennerdale
and Black Sail Youth Hostel was soon in view, as were brilliant views of Pillar and Great Gable.
I stopped at Black Sail and had a coffee ( the hostel is always open for walkers who pass by ).
I met another man of my age there who was doing C to C, but also carrying all the gear, tent etc.,
I passed him going up Loft Beck and never saw him again either. I also met a Dutch couple,
who I was to meet quite often through the Lake district. Had a little rain here, but I only had my waterproofs
on for about half an hour.
I made a bit of a wrong turn going up Loft Beck and crossed to the left side of the beck, WRONG THING TO DO.
It landed me in the middle of a water shed and I ended up with very wet feet, even though I got
splendid views of Buttermere. Should have looked at my GPS sooner but at least I knew exactly where I was
and soon gained the correct path to Honister tramway.
Some time, if we are that way again, the slate quarry would be worth a look.
I am also of the opinion that mobile phones are a waste of time in Lakeland.
Soon down to Seatotler and through Danny’s Wood to Longthwaite Youth Hostel.
I left Ennerdale Bridge at 08.45 and arrived at Longthwaite at 16.45. I had covered about 14 ½ miles today.
The weather had been part overcast with just a little rain and part sunny and very hot out of the wind.
At the hostel I met quite a few people doing the walk, who were having their baggage sent on each day.
I wish I had done that as I am finding 32 lbs heavy to carry.
I had Fish and chips that night at the hostel, but no beer
|
|
|
|
|
Ennerdale Water |
Ennerdale looking west |
Buttermere from Grey Knotts |
HonisterTramwayPath |
Borrowdale YHALongthwaite |
Saturday 24th July Rosthwaite to Grasmere 9 miles
I spent a comfortable night at Rosthwaite YHA and after another good breakfast I set out at 09.10.
I have developed a sore spot on my left shoulder, due to the strap on my Bergen and I have tried to pad it,
also I’ve burst the blister on my left big toe and it seems to be OK.
Just as I remembered it….. it was a long slog up to Green Up edge and it has made me more determined to
send some of my stuff home.
I remembered some parts of this section from ’89 and took more photos. This time climbing up there was no
mist and so I could see where I was going.
Care must be taken at the top of Greenup Edge as it is easy to go the wrong way.
It was very wet between Green Up Edge and Moor Moss. I had my lunch at Moor Moss,
but with the threat of rain I pulled my rain jacket on and started the decent into Far Easedale.
I had been amazed that I was passing people who were carrying less weight than me,
( must be fitter than I thought ), but even so I did not reach the hostel until 15.15, after only covering 9 ¼ miles,
though that was not until I had stopped at Goody Bridge and had a lovely pot of tea at a teashop.
My knees weren’t too bad on the decent as I took it nice and easy.
There were a really nice bunch of men in the Dorm., I shared at Thorney How Hostel.
They were on a weekend’s walking, away from their wives, ha ha ha .
Anyway they were very interested in my walk and when I was moaning about the weight I was carrying,
they offered to post the my excess stuff back home for me, ( next day was Sunday and I would not be near a
post office until monday).
Did my usual bit of washing and got it and my boots dried out and nix waxed them.
Marvellous dinner at the hostel. Carrot and Pepper soup, Roast Pork and all the trimmings and then
Apple crumble and custard.
|
|
|
|
|
Longthwaite Bridge |
Tramway fromLongthwaite |
The track past Eagle Grag |
SmithymireIsland |
Waterfalls |
Sunday 25th July Grasmere to Patterdale 8 miles
What a miserable day, it was raining cats and dogs. I’m glad I sorted out my boots last night.
Anyway after a hearty breakfast, I put on my full rainwear and set off for Patterdale at 09.20hrs. and took the
Little Tongue route up to Grisdale Tarn. It was very wet underfoot and heavy going, what with my pack and
wearing my wet weather gear, so hot.
When I finally made it to the tarn it was blowing a gale and very cold. The mist was thick, so there was no point
in trying St Sunday Crag as I would not see a thing. I did manage to see the Brothers Parting Stone where
Wardsworth and his brother parted for the last time, as the brother was later drowned at sea.
A slippy decent down to Ruthwaite Lodge Mountain hut, I managed to fall a few times and hurt my knee.
So I had my lunch and a bit of a rest here.
About 13.00hrs the rain stopped and the sun came out, but by then it was too late to change my route again,
so I carried on at a leisurely pace to Patterdale where I treated myself to some wine gums and a couple of
cans of Boddington bitter.
I arrived at Patterdale Youth Hostel at 15.00hrs and got booked into a big dorm, which I shared with just one
other fella.
Good drying room here so I put it to my full use.
Dinner was a grand affair, fruit juice to start and then roast duck and all the trimmings, follower with treacle tart.
Had a gentle stroll round Patterdale after dinner.
The blister on my toe was now sore to walk on and starting to go the wrong way, so I had to drain a load of
puss out of it. ( wimp, wimp).
|
|
|
|
|
|
WaterfallsGreat Tongue |
Brothers'Parting Stone |
Waterfalls nearRuthwaite Lodge |
Grisdale |
A lunch stopGrisdale |
Patterdale YHA |
Monday 26th July Patterdale to Shap 16 miles
First thing I had to drain my blister again………….thick puss, not looking very good.
Anyway today I wanted an early start, so I only had a cup of tea before setting off at 07.20hrs in glorious
sunshine.
Stright into the climb up to Boredale Hause. I took it easy all the way up as today was to be my hardest yet.
It was the highest point of the whole walk and to make matters worse I went slightly wrong after leaving
Angle Tarn and climbed Peace Dodd, which was another extra 500ft of ascent, double trouble cause what
goes up must come down and decent is worse than ascent.
( Note to Self............Pay more attention to the bloody map)
Anyway I bravely struggled on, LOL, and reached Kidsty Pike, where I decided to have a bite to eat. What a
laugh that was……the midges decended on me in their hundreds and I was the meal. I could not get packed up
and away quick enough. That evening my arms and legs were covered in bloody bites and boy did they itch.
The way down to Hawswater was steep and that took it out of my knees again. It had taken me 5hrs to cover
the 7 miles there and I still had 9 to go. I decided I would ring from Burnbank, (another 5 miles ) and get a lift
as I was shattered. The lady from The Hermitage had already told me I could ring for a lift if I needed it.
The walk along the banks of Hawswater was also shattering, it was a hot hot day and my feet were sore.
I was so pleased to see the big Rangerover that came for me. I had reached Burnbanks at 15.45hrs.
The Hermitage is a lovely old cottage, ( 1691 ) and Mrs Jackson who keeps it is an angel, she took all my
dirty clothes and washed, dried and ironed them.
I had a long soak in a bath and then went to the pub for my evening meal ( Chicken Curry) and of course a
pint of best bitter to wash it down.
Back to my B/B and drained my toe again, hope it will be OK now. I was in bed before 21.00hrs, nackered.
Though I had my mobile phone with me, I was not able to use it very much as reception was usually poor in
the valleys, but I was able to phone Marilyn from Kidsty Pike, ( after I got away from the midges ).
|
|
|
|
|
Boredale Hausepath |
White LionPatterdale |
Patterdale fromBoredale Hause |
Brothers' Water |
Angle Tarn |
|
|
|
|
Hawswater fromKidsty Pike |
Kidsty Pike andKidsty Howes |
The Dam atBurnbanks |
The HermitageShap |
Tuesday 27th July Shap to Orton 7 miles
Had a great sleep and did not get up until 08.00hrs. My toe was very swollen, but looked clean enough so I
padded it well.
My breakfast was big enough for four, but I managed to make a good impression on it.
Today was an easy day only going as far as Orton which was 7 miles. It was very hot and sticky with lots
of sunshine as I set out at 09.40hrs. I just ambled along and passed through some beautiful fields of
purple clover. There was one part when I was going over a heath, where they had a sign saying
“Beware of Adders”, but I never saw any.
Passing over the M6 I climbed a slight rise and was able to have a last look back at Lakeland.
I wonder if I shall ever see that view again.
There were also a few old ruins of Lime Kilns near Orton, which were worth a look.
Anyway I carried on and finished a pleasant walk to Orton, arriving at 14.30hrs.
However there was a note on the door of the B/B stating that they would not be back until 16.00hrs and
as it transpired they did not make an appearance until 17.00hrs. I was not impressed, but did not say anything.
Had another nice bath anyway and was pleased to see that the swelling had gone down on my toe, in fact the
walk today had not bothered my feet or knees, so that was good.
There is a nice pub in Orton called “The George”, serve good food, especially the Steak and Ale Pie which I had.
I also found out I could have stopped there as well.
Met two ladies ( mother and daughter) who I had seen a few times from Borrowdale and we had a drink and
a chat. They were doing ½ a C to C, ie St Bees to Kirby Stephen.
I was back in the B/B and in bed for 22.00hrs. Blimey it certainly wears you out all this fresh air and walking.
|
|
|
|
Limekilnnear Orton |
Almost at Orton |
Moystn HouseOrton |
George HotelOrton |
Wednesday 28th July Orton to Kirby Stephen 13 miles
I was away early today after having just a light breakfast. [07.40am]
It was a fairly easy walk and I even diverted 1 mile to have a good look at the Smardalegill Viaduct,
[ the Settle – Carlisle railway goes over it ].
Near Sunbiggin Tarn a lady caught up with me. She was English, but from Settle is USA, and heading for
Keld from Orton [ 25 ½ miles, good lord]. Her name was Joanna and she gave me some cream for
my midge bites, so I gave her ½ of my Kendal Mint Cake. I never saw her again, but about an hour or two
later I met someone coming the other way who asked if I was Tom, when I said yes, they told me Joanna
sends her best wishes.
Dropping down from Smardale Fell, I was able to watch a farmer shear some sheep, that was really good.
Then it was on to Kirby Stephen where I arrived at the hostel at 14.40hrs. As it did not open until 17.00hrs
I found a pub and enjoyed a nice pint.
I want to reduce the weight I’m carrying, so tomorrow I’m sending a load of stuff ahead of me to Keld YHA
by “Sherpa” carriers. It’s £5 a day, but it could make all the difference to me.
Dinner that evening in the hostel was, Veg soup, Mince beef and onions followed by a yougart.
|
|
|
|
Sunbiggin Tarn |
SmardaleViaduct |
Smardale Bridge |
Giants GravesSmardale |
|
|
|
Railway Viaduct |
Sheep ShearingKeldyBankFarm |
YHAKirkby Stephen |
Thursday 29th July Kirby Stephen to Keld 12 ¾ miles
Made my own breakfast this morning, muslie and a mug of tea. I was on my way by 07.50hrs.
I passed over “Frank’s Bridge” and made good progress up to “Nine Standard Riggs”, the weather was
very good and I had good views back over Kirby Stephen. Here also, on the track up to the riggs,
is the lovely wooden memorial seat to Brian Saunders with the inviting inscription "Rest a While"
Dropping down the other side of the riggs,
I passed the little walled shelter where Marilyn and I had stopped in 1989 and brewed up. Further on I
met one of the workers from Gunnerside Estate and we chatted for about ½ an hour, then it was on to the
little bridge at Ravenseat where we also had brewed up in 1989, so I did the same!!
Then it was just the few miles into Keld. It had been another warm sunny day, a brilliant walk,
nearly pain free [ my foot ].
Arrived at 14.45hrs and I had reached “THE HALFWAY POINT” of the walk. I have really enjoyed myself so far.
I was pleased to see my bag was already there ahead of me, [ well done Sherpa, the baggage people ].
At the hostel I was able to get all my washing done and have an early shower. Then made myself a big mug
of tea and sat and chatted with some other walkers until dinnertime.
Dinner was, Veg soup, Swaledale sausage and chips, apple crumble and icecream.
There are no pubs in Keld, but the hostel sold wine and beer, so after a couple of bottles
I went to bed………….or so I thought. The window of out dormitory had been left open and the ceiling
was a moving mass of midges. What a mess! Lucky I had a lower bunk, so I covered my head with my
sleeping sheet and tried to get some sleep that way, but it was redhot and I was pleased when morning came.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Frank's BridgeKirkby Stephen |
Kirkby fromHartley Fell |
Brian Saundersmemorial Seat Hartley Fell |
Nine StandardsRigg |
Trig., ColumnNine Standards |
Shelter nearNine Standards |
|
|
|
RavenseatBridge |
Limekilnnear Keld |
Keld YHA |
Friday 30th July Keld to Reeth 12 ¾ miles
No ill effects from the midges, I’m pleased to say, so after breakfast I had a good start in brilliant sunshine.
Soon had a sweat on climbing up to Crackpot Hall, wonderful view of Swaledale from here.
Then a hard walk down and up Swinner Gill. Easy going then to Gunnerside Gill and that was a very hard
down and up, but it was the last big climb of the day.
I stopped quite a few times during the day as there is so much to see on this section of the walk ,
all the old ruined buildings from the various mines and a lovely lunch stop at Surrended Bridge, where
I lay back and enjoyed the sunshine.
One more little down and up at Cringley Bottom and it was all down hill to Reeth. Very nasty lane into Reeth
called Skelgate Lane, full of nettles and loose rocks. I actually came down the wrong part of the lane,
so it was my own fault.
I stayed at Hackney House, the same place Marilyn and I stayed at in 1989, but now it was run by the
daughter of the landlady in 1989.
That evening I went to “The Black Bull” for my evening meal, which was tomato soup, steak & ale pie,
all washed down with a couple of pints of “Black Sheep”.
It was great walking with my now lightweight rucsac and I have decided to use Sherpa for the rest of the walk.
They are very reliable.
I had left Keld at 08.30hrs and arrived at Reeth at 14.00hrs
|
|
|
|
|
|
River Swaleat Keld |
Keld fromGunnerside |
Crackpot Halland Swaledale |
Swinner GillGunnerside |
GunnersideMoor |
BlakethwaiteGillGunnerside |
|
|
|
|
|
|
OldGangSmeltmillsReethHighMoor |
Near theOld Gang Works |
SurrenderBridgeReethHighMoor |
Hackney HouseReeth |
Reeth |
Reeth |
Saturday 31st July Reeth to Richmond 10 ½ miles
Set off about 08.15hrs today. Not much sun, but very warm.
It was easy walking in Swaledale passing by the remain of Marrick Priory and up the stepping stones in
Step Wood to come out at Marske.
Quite a change in the scenary as I was walking at a lower level.
There were great views of Swaledale from Applegarth and I stopped for my lunch at East Applegarth
near the YHA Camping Barn.
Being a short walk today I was soon in Richmond [ 13.30hrs ] and after
checking into my digs for the night I had a walk round Richmond. Interesting place with it’s big ruined castle.
Infact, where I stopped, “Willance House”, 24 French Gate. It’s the oldest house in Richmond.
It rained a little this evening, but did not last long.
I had chipshop fish & chips for my evening meal and sat eating them in Richmond market place,
watching the world go by. Then I found a pub and had a couple of pints before heading to bed.
|
|
|
|
|
Grave StoneMarrick Priory |
Marrick Priory |
Step WoodMarrick |
Applegarth Scar |
Paddy's Bridge |
|
|
|
YHA CampingbarnEastApplegarth |
Richmond fromWhitecliffeWood |
24 French GateRichmond |
Sunday 1st August Richmond to Danby Wiske 14 miles
Left Richmond at 08.00hrs it was a dull day, but warm and dry.
I was a bit miffed that I could not get a photo of Richmond Bridge as I walked along side the river, but it
was obscured by trees.
There was lots of road walking today and very flat along this part, which is between the Yorkshire Dales
and North York Moors.
I’v noticed a few changes since I last came this way. There used to be a lovely old horse tread mill at
Colburn Farm, but it’s a yuppies home now. Bolton-on-Swale still has the village pump and I saw the memorial
to Henry Jenkins, who was reputed to be 169 when he died !!!!
The sun had come out about 13.00hrs and was now very warm, so I stopped on Whitwell moor and had a bite
of lunch and tended to my blister as the plaster had slipped. Soon got going again and before long I was at
“The White Swan” in Danby Wiske, sitting outside with a pint of Black Sheep of course. I had arrived at
14.05hrs.
Then I had a shower, did my bit of laundry and took a walk to see the old church. Lovely place, so quiet and
peaceful. The church itself could have been the twin of the one in Arnold ( where I live in Nottinghamshire ).
I sat on a bench in the churchyard and it was so quite that even with my bad hearing I was able to hear the
bees buzzing in and out of the flowers. There were lots of rabbits running around as well.
Earlier on in the day as I came through Iron Banks Wood [ near Richmond ] I almost had to step around the
rabbits as they weren’t a bit scared.
That evening at dinner I met two ladies, Ann and Sue, who were also doing the C2C. Can you believe that they
do not have a compass between them. They have already got lost a few times, the worst being on Greenup
Edge.
The White Swan is kept by Terry and Paula who are very pleasant people. BUT be warned, don’t let Terry
make you scrambled eggs, he uses too much salt.
Dinner that evening was, Pork hock with new potatoes, carrots and peas, then Dutch applepie and custard.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The CastleRichmond |
The CastleRichmond |
French GateRichmond |
Market PlaceRichmond |
Wall SundialBridge St |
Bridge StRichmond |
River Swaleand Castle |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bridge HouseCatterick |
Henry JenkinsMemorial BoltonOnSwale |
A nice name |
Road intoDanby Wiske |
Enjoying a beerWhite Swan |
ChurchDanby Wiske |
Monday 2nd August Danby Wiske to Ingleby Arncliffe 9 miles
Dull start to the day, but at least it wasen’t raining. I set off in the company of Sue and Ann, as they were
also going to Ingleby Arncliffe, in fact they were stopping at the same place as I was.
It was a pleasant walk today, across fields and down grassy lanes in pleasant company with good conversation.
We got lost once in a cornfield, which was my fault as I had the map, but after a few minutes we were all back
on the right track.
We were going to divert to a pub for lunch, but by pure luck we met someone who told us it
was closed, so on to Ingleby house we went, where we had tea and biscuits.
Went down to the Bluebell Inn at Ingleby Cross in the evening for dinner and I had a nice sirloin steak and chips,
followed by a deep fried pancake with fruit and icecream…..not forgetting a couple of pints.
We had set off from Danby Wiske at 10.00hrs and arrived at Ingleby Arncliffe at 14.45hrs.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mine HostsWhite Swan |
Sue Tom and AnnWhite Swan |
The ruin atBrecken Hill |
Looking towardsN Y Moors |
Water TowerInglebyArncliffe |
Mrs Garthwaiteat Ingleby House |
BlueBell InnIngleby Cross |
Tuesday 3rd August Ingleby Arncliffe to Clay Bank Top [ Urra ] 13miles
Today I tackle the North York Moors, but what should have been a fine walk along the edges turned out to be a
dull misty day and at times very wet and windy.
It was raining hard when I awoke at 06.00hrs, but by the time I had breakfast and got myself ready for the
days walk it had stopped.
I was again walking on my own, as the girls wanted to visit "Mount Grace Priory" on the way.
A long gradual climb soon had me to the top of Becon Hill, where the Lyke Wake Walk starts, it’s a shame it’s so
misty. So I just go plodding on mostly unaware of my surroundings. The walk takes me past the Gliding Club on
Carlton Bank, with its dramatic drops on the N/W side, across a depression and onto Cringle Moor.
In the depression is the famous Lord Stones Café, which is cut into the rock, I had a pint of milky tea and a
couple of scones here and good job I stopped, as I wasen’t in the place 2 minutes before the heavens opened
and it threw it down. I stopped there about ½ hour until it stopped and then made my way up to Kirby Bank
where once more it came down with a vengeance. It just got heavier and heavier, so that by the time I
dropped down to Clay Bank Top and made my way to Urra I was well soaked. Not only that but the flies
were another problem, they were like house flies, but they bit.
Anyway arriving at Maltkiln House like a drowned rat, Wendy Broad soon had another mug of tea ready for me,
my but it tasted good.
After I had showered and changed, Wendy took my dirty wet clothes and washed and dried them.
My feet were OK today, but I think the old knees are feeling the strain. I’m so glad I’ve got my walking poles.
15.00hrs I’ve just been outside feeding my leftover lunch to the freerange hens and there has been a
young rabbit sitting not 6 feet from me, just washing and scratching his head. Some places are just so peaceful.
Dinner was superb, Wendy even put candles around the room. There were 6 other people besides myself.
Dinner started at 19.00hrs and we did not leave the table until 21.30hrs.
I had to as I had to repair my shorts [ big rip in the bum ]
Dinner : Glass of sherry to start, Lental Soup, Chicken Casarole, Fruit and icecream then coffee. I also had a
bottle of beer with my meal.
I left Ingleby Arncliffe at 08.45hrs and arrived at Urra 15.10hrs.
|
|
|
|
|
|
New Moorlandpaved track |
BoundryStoneLive Moor |
Resident ofLive Moor |
Kirby BankCringle Moor |
Maltkiln HouseUrra |
Maltkiln HouseUrra |
Wednesday 4th August Urra to Blakey Ridge 8 miles
The morning was damp and overcast. It had been raining heavy during the night and I was not very hopeful of
it being a good day. I was right………I had to put on my so called waterproofs to start my days walk.
It was a very steep climb through the wet bracken from Urra up onto Urra Moor. I was absolutely lathered by
the time I got to the top. Still it soon stopped raining and I was able to take my wet gear off. I also took the
opportunity to take some photos back towards Clay Bank Top and in the far distance you could see Roseberry
Topping.
A good path led across the moor to Round Hill, which is the highest point of the North York Moors,
and here I joined the official Coast to Coast path again.
As a viewpoint it is rather disappointing as the broad top of the moor allows no debth to a view in any direction.
There are some interesting guide posts along here,
The Hand Stone, this has hands pointing east “this is the way to Kir” meaning Kirbymoorside and west “ This is
the way to Sto” meaning Stokesley, from what I can gather it was probally put there around October 1711,
when an order had been made to erect guidestones throughout the North Riding of Yorkshire. The Face Stone,
is even more ancient as it is mentioned in a boundry survey of 1642, and a guidestone with a concave top with
some coins in it [ I did leave the coins, honest ]. There is also a Trig Column on Round Hill. Then it was on again
to Bloworth Crossing, where the C to C and the Cleveland Way part company. From Beacon Hill the C to C, Lyke
Wake Walk and the Cleveland Way all use the same path.
At the crossing I met up with some of the people who had stopped at Maltkiln House the previous night, two
Irish sisters, and we all walked on to the Lion at Blakey Ridge, where we said good bye as they were going on
to Glaisdale and I was spending the night at High Blakey House.
I had my lunch at the Lion, Pint of John Smith’s Bitter and a bowl of stilton and brocklie soup, lovely it was.
Had a big surprise when I came out of the Lion, as who should be there but Sue and Ann. They had got a lift to
the Lion and were now heading over to Glaisedale.
High Blakey House is a magnificent place which has a huge patio window with a vista over Rosedale.
When I went in I was greeted with another big pot of tea and homemade scones.
I had a lovely big double room and a bathroom all to myself here.
My evening meal was across at the Lion and I had Steak and Kidney Pudding, chips, carrots and peas, followed
by lemon pie and of course a pint of bitter.
I had left Urra at 09.00hrs and arrived at Blakey Ridge at 12.20hrs a very short day indeed, but most enjoyable
crossing the moors.
|
|
|
|
|
from Wainstonesto ClaybankTop |
Hand Stone Urra Moor |
Face StoneUrra Moor |
Guide PostUrra Moor |
High BlakeyHouse |
Thursday 5th August Blakey Ridge to Glaisdale 9¾ miles
Once more it was a misty start to the day. Walking along Blakey Ridge, I passed the Old Marjory Stone where
I once more joined the Lyke Wake Walk, but by the time I had reached Young Ralph Cross it was starting to
clear. It’s worth going the few yards off the way to see the cross, which is also the emblem for the North York
Moors National Park. From there I headed east to another cross, White Cross, or known to most people as Fat
Betty, then it was on to Cut Road.
Interesting tale about Cut Road as in 1989 when Marilyn and I did the C to C and were near Trough House, she
glanced down and saw a little dog walking beside her. She called for me to look, but when we looked again it
was gone………..very strange. I did not see the little dog this time either.
It was really something looking across from Cut Road and seeing all the old spoil heaps from the old mine
workings at Oven Mouth, now covered with grass and heather. The view down Great Fryupdale was superb
and what a funny name for the dale!!.
I carried on until I reached the Trig Column on Glaisdale Rigg and stopped there for lunch, the sun was out now
and it was quite hot. After my break it was a sready decent down into Glaisdale.
I arrived at Ashley House, where I was to stop the night, much earlier than I expected, so leaving my backpack
there I headed on down to the Arncliffe Arms and had a nice pint of Black Sheep, it tasted great……….as per
normal.
I then had a wander down to Beggars Bridge,
“The Story of Beggar’s Bridge : Tom Ferries was the son of a poor sheep farmer, he met and fell in love
with Agnes Richardson, daughter of a rich Glaisdale landowner. Her father was agast at the prospect of Agnes
marrying a beggar, but consented to allow the marriage if Tom became a rich man.
Tom went to sea in 1586, took part in the defeat of the Armada and subsequently sailed with Sir Francis Drake
to the West Indies, where he grew rich through piracy. He returned to England and married Agnes in 1592.
The couple settled in Hull, where Ferries became City Sheriff and later Lord Mayor.
Agnes died in 1618 and the following year, mindful of the great difficulties he had had as a youth crossing the
River Esk to meet her and of her fathers hostility, he commissioned Beggar’s Bridge to be built as her memorial.
I also checked out the train times to Grosmont, as I had decided that tomorrow I would have a ride on “The
North York Steam Railway” down to Pickering. As this ment I would miss 4 miles of my walk I took a walk
through East Arncliffe Woods along the pack horse route. It’s a lovely walk along the banks of the Esk.
That evening I went back to the Arncliffe Arms and had a nice peppered Fillet steak, apple pie and custard
and another couple of pints of Black Sheep.
Before going to bed I arranged for an early breakfast for 07.30hrs.
Sue and Ann had also stopped the previous night at Ashley House. The land lady told me thet they got lost again
coming over from Blakey. Oh Dear!!!!.
I had left High Blakey House at 09.25hrs and arriver at Ashley House at 13.30hrs. It’s great just to be able to
amble along with all the time in the world.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Guide PostBlakey Ridge |
Marjory StoneLykeWakeWay |
Young RalphCross |
Fat Bettyand me |
Trough HouseGlaisdale Rigg |
Track overGlaisdale Moor |
OvenmouthGreatFryupDale |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Guide StoneGlaisdale Rigg |
BeggersBridgeGlaisdale |
The FordGlaisdale |
Arncliffe ArmsGlaisdale |
River EskEast Arncliffe |
Packhorse PathEast Arncliffe |
Ashley HouseGlaisdale |
Friday 6th August Glaisdale to Intake Farm, Littlebeck 7¼ miles
Caught the 08.10am train to Grosmont and I was able to have a good look round the station and Engine Sheds before my journey
to Pickering. There's a lovely little well cared for grave of "Moony" the old Engine Shed Cat
It was a brilliant journey, even though it only lasted 1hr 10 mins, but the lure of a steam train and
the beautiful scenery was a magnet to me. The clickety click of the wheels on the track, took me back to my
childhood.
I only stopped 1½ hrs in Pickering and then it was back to Grosmont to continue my walk.
What a climb out of Grosmont, the hill was 30% and almost 2 miles long. The top was Sleights Moor and I had
a look at the High Bride Stones. Then it was downhill all the way to Littlebeck, the last ½ mile being very steep.
I went through Littlebeck Woods to see “The Hermitage”, a huge sandstone boulder which had a room carved
into it. Falling Foss, a waterfall and Midge Hall, an old ruin of a house. It’s a terrible muddy path through the
woods. I then managed to get lost after Midge Hall and it took me some time to find the path going to Intake
Farm.
Intake Farm is a lovely place run by Mr and Mrs Ventress. I was welcomed with a pot of tea and a huge slab of
homemade chocolate cake, also by their sheepdog Ben, the cat and her 3 kittens. Great.
Not bothered so much with the flies today as I had bought an insect spray in “Boots” at Pickering, They still
buzzed around but knew not to land, so it was well worth buying it.
Poor old shorts have just about had it now, I’m holding them together with sticking plaster, still just one more
day to go.
Left Glaisdale at 08.00hrs arriver Intake Farm 17.45hrs. Have has a smashing day.
Dinner at the farm : Prawn Cocktail, Chicken sausage and bacon, roast and new potatoes, cauliflour cheese,
carrots and bread stuffing, Rhubarb Crumble and custard, tea. What a meal!!!
|
|
|
|
|
852Gromont Station |
Moony's GraveEngine Sheds |
Me and 45212Gromont Station |
North York'sSteam Railway |
Street ScenePickering |
|
|
|
|
|
ChurchyardPickering |
HighBridesStonesSleights Moor |
The HermitageLittlebeck Woods |
Falling FossLittlebeck Woods |
Midge HallLittlebeck Woods |
|
|
|
|
The boysat Intake Farm |
Intake FarmLittlebeck |
Mr Ventress&Ben |
Intake Farm |
Saturday 7th August Intake Farm to Robin Hood’s Bay 11¾ miles
Well, it’s the big day today, I finish my walk and see Marilyn again, she is meeting me at High Hawsker.
I said bye bye to mum cat, kittens and Ben and set off on a bright sunny morning for my last stage.
I followed an old foothpath until it petered out near Maybeck Carpark and I had to fight my way through some
gorse bushes and over a swamp to make it to the minor road, oh dear, did I go wrong again??. Then it was
quite a long climb until I reached Greystone Hills, from where I should have been able to see the sea, but even
though I could make out Whitby Abbey, I could not make out the sea.
I got to High Hawsker about mid-day and met Marilyn. We had a hug and a kiss and I set off for the path round
the cliffs, while she drove into R H’s B and started from that end round the cliffs to meet me again.
It was really clear now and there were wonderful views all along the cliff tops.
Marilyn met me again at the old lookout station and together we walked into Robin Hood’s Bay. I went down
the slipway onto the beach and wet my boots in the North Sea.
So ended my walk of 190 miles, I really had enjoyed it, but sometimes cursed it. I met some great people on the
way and now have another load of memories. I’m so pleased I did it again.
Started out from Intake Farm at 08.30hrs and wet my boots at 14.30hrs.
|
|
|
|
Littlebeck Woods |
The route toGraystone Hills |
North Sea |
North Seaand cliffs |
|
|
|
|
RobinHoodsBay |
Fern LeighRobinHoodsBay |
Robin Hood'sBay |
Wetting my bootsRobinHoodsBay |
I wonder if I’ll do it again……perhaps again with Marilyn?????? Who knows.
THE END.......... ?
Useful Links
we need your help