I have a Envemo S90 356 B replica, made in 1981, that is perfect because all the trim is original Porsche made. Only experts can notice the difference. I have another replica. A 550 spyder race prepared. Attached is a photo taken in the Senna's bend in Interlagos race track. The car has a VW aircooled engine with 1.600 cc displacement, cam, valves, head etc... running on Alchool.

I notice that almost all the builders/owner of spyders are concerned with the rear camber and oversterring.
All solutions, type roll bars, z bars etc... work, but are not enough for race.
I use a brazilian solution.
A vertical and long bolt that links the wheel hub to the chassis. This bolt allows the wheel to come up but limits the down movement, thus making positive camber impossible. In other words the car height is set by these bolts. For track we mount the car with a very positive camber. Turnning the bolt we cant set the camber to negative. Of course this makes the suspension very stiff because the torsion bars are in the full force. For street use we mount the suspension with zero camber and use the bolts only to set the camber slightly negative. The bolt is working as a camber limitator. I hope this will help.

Best Regards Roberto Zullino

I read the letter from Ray Colbert concernning the front suspension.
Ray cut the upper tubes and got 4 degrees of negative camber. This is the right solution for the front suspension.
The only comment that I woul like to make is about to cut the upper tubes. We here in São Paulo, Brazil do not use this method. We bend the upper arms in order to get the negative camber. This is indeed a very low cost solution. Only two arms bought in a scrapyard, a torch, vice and a lot of attention.

Attached, for your gallery, is a another photo of my car in the Senna's bend in Interlagos Racetrack.