Buying Rats

If you know nothing at all about rats then know this: Rats are highly social animals and need the company of other rats of the same sex. It is the first commandment of rat keeping so don't be persuaded otherwise. Unfortunately, many pet shops are only too happy to sell you a lone rat. There are even some poorly researched books that actually recommend a single rat but this is based on not properly understanding how the rat's social hierarchy works. It is distressing enough to see the effect that loneliness has on a rat but it is even more distressing to see this loneliness interpreted as affection. Apart from anything else, two rats of the same sex are easier to look after than one and are much more than twice as much fun to own. If you are new to rats, buy two (or more) kittens of the same sex and of the same age (preferably litter-mates).

Rats are as individual as humans and a definitive description of the sexes will always produce a contradiction. There is, however, enough of a trend to make a generalisation to help the newcomer make an informed choice about which of the sexes will be the most suitable pet for them.

Bucks grow much larger than does (500g +) and tend to be more 'laid back' - the older they get the larger and lazier they become. They are usually more content to stay with their owners and soak up all the attention and scritches lavished upon them. The hair on the male rat is slightly longer and coarser than that of the female. Although not normally apparent, the 'musk' smell of the adult male is also slightly stronger - to most rat owners this is definitely a plus point in their favour!

Does are smaller (200g - 400g), agile and more active than males. Consequently, they are more likely to make proper use of the toys and distractions you may give them. They are generally more inquisitive and, preferring adventure to pampering, they are arguably more entertaining to watch. They also have a very strong urge to reproduce and once every 5 days they go into oestrus (heat) which lasts for up to 12 hours or so. The term 'live wire' is never more applicable than when a doe is in oestrus.

Both sexes maintain a social hierarchy. The dominant rat (the 'alpha' rat) is at the head of their respective groups and a 'pecking order' exists below that. This order, however, can sometimes be very subtle indeed and it may not be immediately obvious who 'outranks' who!

Pet shops: Buying rat kittens from a pet shop is, at best, a lottery. You might get yourself a healthy, sweet tempered rat or a mean, unhealthy animal that your vet is going to see a lot of. You will usually have no idea about the health or temperament of their parents or of the conditions they were raised in. The chances are they will have had little human contact. The advice (if any) you receive could range from competent to appalling and you could easily come away with an entirely unsuitable cage into the bargain. At worst you could be supporting and encouraging 'rodent farming' - an odious trade. Of course, not all pet shops are bad and a few breeders use the more reputable ones as an outlet for their surplus kittens but most don't.

Breeders: Buy instead from a reputable breeder. A poor, unhealthy strain of rats is no use whatsoever to a breeder of show animals and so you are much more likely to get healthy and tractable pets from a reputable breeder. They are usually no more expensive than pet shop rats and nearly as easy to obtain (see the links page). Not only will you receive the proper advice to get you started but a point of contact if advice is needed in the future.

Kittens also come with (or are available on request) a 'pedigree' sheet detailing their ancestry. Remember, anyone can throw a buck and a doe together and call themselves a breeder, but what they won't necessarily have is a reputation for breeding sweet, healthy rats. If you are a member of one of the rat clubs or an on-line rat group simply ask around for the name of a good breeder who has kittens for sale. Rat shows are a good source for kittens and are also often used as pick-up points for kittens reserved from breeders who travel from all over the UK. Each year there are over 80 rat shows in the UK so you are never that far away from one!

Rescues:. Taking on an abandoned or neglected rat from a rescue centre can sometimes require a lot of hard work and patience and, unless you are thoroughly determined and dedicated, is not usually for the novice owner. It can, however, be very rewarding to give an unwanted or troubled rat a loving, permanent home.

Rescuing rats from poor conditions in pet shops is a pointless and ultimately self defeating exercise, as the only ones who will benefit in the long run are the pet shop owner and the rodent farmer. By saving a rat from such misery you will merely create a demand for more rats to live under those same conditions.

Ok … so you have been to a rat show or two and you quite fancy getting involved in the variety classes. You have already fallen in love with a particular variety of rat. Now all you have to do is get a couple of kittens and decide where you are going to hang all those rosettes you are going to win. Right?

Well… it can happen that way but mostly it doesn't.

It is possible to buy a rat from a breeder that will bag you a rosette or two but, unless you know what you are doing, you are much more likely to end up with a poor specimen and worse still, you will get discouraged from showing before you get hooked. Breeders aren't about to sell you their best kittens. Here then are a few hints and tips on getting started with the variety classes.

Before you do anything, consider the variety you are attracted to very carefully indeed. Some varieties are often over-subscribed and (unless you really like a challenge) you will end up competing in large classes with little reward/encouragement. Check out all the show results you can get your hands on and see how many rats have been entered in each class. Is there a variety you like that could use your support?

If you are a member of a rat club you will soon find out who is breeding the variety winners. Visit as many shows as you can and talk to the breeders. I have yet to meet a breeder who isn't more than happy to let you in on the 'secrets'. Find out what 'type' is; what a good head looks like; what good eyes are; see if you can tell the difference between a good tail and a bad one. The size, shape and position of the ears are important too.

Then you will need patience…lots of it. The right rats for you are not (unless you are very lucky) going to suddenly become available overnight. Ask around and find out who is breeding what and when - then order in advance. If you wait until a litter is advertised you can bet your bottom dollar that the breeder's friends and acquaintances will have had first refusal. Stay in touch with the breeder and learn what you can about the composition of the litter etc.

Be prepared to travel. If you have your own transport then you will have an advantage. If at all possible, arrange with the breeder to arrive at their house on the day the kittens are ready to leave - that way you may have the pick of the litter (barring what the breeder has reserved for his/herself). If you have done your homework you will know what you are looking for. You will also get to meet the kittens' parents, which may also be useful to you.