home 
We assembled in St. Petersburg, Russia. Our stay there was the usual touristic oriented program, other than our visit to the Synagogue where we met with and talked to the congregants who were primarily old and remnants of the community. They do hold two services: one the regular orthodox variety, and the other, perhaps more orthodox, run by Chabad with several younger people sent there from abroad to contribute to re-seeding the community, even to the extent of offering teaching to the few younger people who participate. It was a far different scene from when I was last in Leningrad in August 1968. At that time there were nearly a hundred worshipers participating in seven or eight different minyanim taking place at the same time. But since then the great exodus to Israel has taken place.
The one other event of Jewish interest was our very special luncheon in a top-notch restaurant where we were entertained by an excellent violinist who played only Yiddish and Hebrew melodies, past and present. This gave Jo and Isaac the first chance to show their musical talents. They both proved worthy. As much as we enjoyed the playing and singing, the violinist enjoyed us even more At least he said so, as he followed us to the motor coach, even after he'd received the generous gratuity.
The next stop on the itinerary was Talinn, the capitol city of Estonia. We travelled by small motor coach and were accompanied by our Russian guide, Anna. We all had been advised that a visa from any one of the Baltic countries would be accepted by both of the other two Baltic states. Nevertheless, the process of travelling through international border check points always causes some anxiety, especially with such diverse passports as South African, Colombian, US, British, and Russian.
Once one leaves the Russian boundary, that country's visa is taken away and re-entry is not allowed. If Estonian entry is denied one becomes a "man without a country" relegated, perhaps, to walking the bridge at Narva which joins Russia and Estonia. Yes, the Estonians denied entry to Perla, Isaac and Anna. Yes, they acknowledged that their Foreign Offices everywhere were telling travellers that no Estonian visa was required if one had a visa from another Baltic state. But the information was incorrect and there was no possible solution. No telephone available, no one to talk to and, besides, it was Sunday...so nothing could be done. The rest of the group went off to keep our luncheon arrangements, but with the understanding that we would return and the mutual agreement among us that under no circumstance would we be separated from our 'family'.
We returned after lunch to greet our three hostages climbing the steep set of stairs that connects the area of the border check point to the main area of the town. They were coming to re-join us, symbolically making aliyah coming up to freedom. Our sophisticated world traveller-business man had cajoled his way into the use of a telephone. With the magic that is part of a world wide ATT card, and knowing the way to reach key diplomats of Colombia, Russia and eventually Estonia, the visas were issued for Perla, Isaac, and Anna as well. Anna became an instant honorary Colombian citizen. Don't underestimate the power of Gilinski, especially if his name is Isaac and he's from Colombia. But Isaac was really experienced in pulling rabbits out of a hat. Get him to tell you how he managed to get into Moscow several days in advance of his visa's authorized dates. They (Perla and Isaac) are not only great company, but in the true sense of the contemporary expression, THEY'RE COOL!
A serendipitous surprise awaited us on arrival in Talinn. Not only were we arriving on Sonja's birthday, but Terence, her elder son was now living in that city and we would all get to meet him. When the itinerary was planned he wasn't living there...it was just one of life's great and mysterious coincidences. We not only celebrated Sonja's birthday, her coming together with Terence, but, also, with the group support system working full tilt, we all celebrated Sonja's giving up smoking. She actually gave away all her cigarettes. Wow, there was no limit to our accomplishments on this trip.
In Talinn we found the synagogue, but not much about it. It was not Shabbat, there was no one around to ask. The building, small and nondescript, was in a poor residential/commercial area and locked up tight. It appears that the Jewish community was never a large one, though the cemetery was well cared for and quite extensive.