"Inexperienced" Members

Class Under: 8 inches
1. Chamaecyparis Landscape - David C.

Class: 8-18 inches
1. Juniper cascade - David C.
2. Japanese White Pine -
3. Juniper Chinensis - Mary C.

Class: Above 18 inches
1 Norway Maple - Peter F.

"Experienced" Members

Class: 8-18 inches
1. Scots Pine - Peter W.
2. Western Hemlock - Mick C.
2. Scots Pine - Keith E.
3. Japanese Maple - Adele R.
3. Weigela - Peter W.

Class: Above 18 inches
"Best in the Show" Wellingtonia - George C.
1. Southern Beech - Trevor B.
2. Banyan Fig - Sheila R.
2. Zelcova - Keith E.
3. Larch - Sheila R.

Class: Mame
1. Mixed collection - George C.
2. Lonicera Nitida - John J.
3. Cotoneaster - Peter W.

David Penney was our visiting judge and he started his review by saying "Well done to all entries". He noted that there was plenty of variation in style, presentation and species of trees. He commented that he had been naturally drawn to his own specialities but had kept a balanced point of view for his judgments. He particularly admired the mame section and considered the tiny trees well looked after. Although David did not review every tree entered he covered enough of them to bring out some tips for us to consider.

On a raft planting trunks coming over the edge of the pot lost marks.
Make certain your entry is placed the correct way around. Don`t leave it for someone else to correct. Incorrectly placed trees can lose marks or be disqualified according to the judge`s viewpoint.
When developing a windswept style tree place the tree with the back against a wall when leaves begin to break from the buds. The leaves will turn towards the light.

Mounding compost too high around the tree can lead to the higher level drying out quickly and affecting any roots in that area. If mounding is used place some moss to lessen the visual impact.
Cascades style trees should be developed to have a visual flow down the length of the cascade. Do not have lengthy side branches which result in two points of eye focus. The main flow of viewing should be over the side of a pot and not towards the viewer.

If possible avoid pots which curve inwards at the top edge. The tree with a lot of roots is difficult to remove from the pot without damage to the roots.

Groups grown on slate or flat rock have to be monitored regularly because they can dry out very quick.

George`s "Best in the Show" Wellingtonia was considered by David to be one of the best in the country. Overall David considered the whole display of entries showed potential. He suggested that that the experienced members of the Society view trees at a normal meeting and offer advice. A creative eye for development of trees will come with experience.

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A Gift to the Nation.
By the Editor

Readers of "The Saturday Telegraph" gardening section will be aware that Ruth Stafford-Jones has donated her bonsai collection to the Nation. Now approaching her 80th year, Ruth is concerned about the upkeep and security of her collection. She sent some of her trees to Sotheby`s auction two years ago. The remaining 50 trees form the bulk of her donation. The current Japanese Year garden exhibition at Kew is displaying some of Ruth`s trees on a rotation basis.

Ruth`s husband Ken worked in Japan in the 1950`s and Ruth saw her first bonsai in 1959. In the following years she used to spend time in Japan learning about bonsai from Japanese bonsai masters after overcoming their initial resistance to teach her. Eventually she became accepted and built up her bonsai knowledge. When interest in bonsai started to develop in the UK, Ruth was amongst the first to have an impact. When our own president, Colin Lewis, was instrumental in establishing and editing Bonsai magazine, Ruth was featured in an article in the first edition. She was often to be seen around the exhibitions and shows. Several times over the years Ruth has talked at our Society often about maples or Satsuki Azaleas.

Three of our current members attended Sunday morning bonsai workshops at Ruth`s home for several years. Whenever an example of a species or style was needed, Ruth would use her own trees to illustrate the point. She had a magnificent collection which some of us believed surpassed the National Collection held at Birmingham.

She was a hard task master to her students. If we started with garden centre stock she would suggest that the height should be pruned and ask us to indicate where the cut should be made. We learnt to anticipate that she would move our hand downwards. Once she was running a workshop at the Annual Wessex Show and employed the same practice there with the participants. Two lady observers were overheard discussing Ruth`s technique. One said "What is she called ?", to which the reply was "Ruth but it ought to be ruthless !"

In the Saturday Telegraph article she gave some advice for people starting in bonsai.
"I would say go out and get some hedging material - beech or hornbeam. The lower branches have not been chopped off these plants. Look for one with a branch or twig growing upright so it presents an easy new leader.
You might buy a 3ft beech and only want one 1ft tall so choose one that you like the shape of, take it home and cut the top off. Urge the leader into an upright position. Then you have something with presence. What makes a bonsai is not it`s size but the proportion between the height and thickness of the trunk. But beware, I do warn people that bonsai are addictive. They take you over."

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Next Meeting. 11th September 2001

"Workshop"
Lee Verhorevoort

Bring a tree for guidance and critique.