Here I will give a brief outline of what each product is used for and how to use them.  But firstly a really good point to remember with make-up is:

Whatever brushes, sponges etc you use – wash them in warm soapy water regularly to avoid a build up of bacteria.   If you have a make-up palette, use it, as you will not be spreading any germs or leaving them in the products that you use daily.  All you have to do is scrape a little off with an orange stick, place on your palette and work from that.

 

CORRECTORS:

Sometimes necessary to disguise prominent features and cover blemishes e.g. spots.   Stick or liquid form - applied with a concealer brush, stippled evenly over the area.  Correctors are applied on a fresh cleansed, toned and moisturised skin, before foundation.

Green – If you have a florid complexion or general redness, dilated arterioles and broken capillaries, apply a green corrector.

Violet – Apply to a sallow complexion.  As violet will Improve and brighten the complexion.

White – To be used under the eyes (dark circles) or lighten dark/yellow patches found on the face.

 

CONCEALERS:

For covering imperfections on the face. Choose the correct shade for your skin, texture and formulation for a natural look. All good stores will have testers, ask the assistant if she minds you taking a small amount to try, go outside into the natural daylight and try on the side of your face.  If it matches your skin tone then you know that you have the right one. The aim is to get a concealer that will dry, hide your blemish and stay put on your face.  Apply with a concealer brush and blend carefully with the tip of your finger.  To be applied after foundation and before powder.

Sticks and pots – tend to give good coverage as they contain more pigment and are thicker in consistency.

Pens, tubes and wands – Although are easier to use, they are less opaque. Lighter in texture and easier to blend.  These are more suitable for people who do not wear much make up. 

 

FOUNDATIONS:

There are so many types of foundations on the market today.  The aim of a foundation is to colour and even out the complexion, also to cover minor imperfections. When choosing a foundation try to match the colour as near to your skin tone as possible.  There are basically three types of skin tone: rose, gold or beige.  Although a lot of the stores give foundations some wonderful names.  Again like a concealer the best way to test if it is the one for you is to ask the assistant for a small sample and go outside into the natural daylight and apply it on your jawbone (half way between the mouth and your ear), then just gently blend it in.  This way when will get the true colour as it will balance nicely with your face and neck tone.  Remember not to apply it over the foundation that you already have on!

For best coverage when apply to the whole of the face is to put some on a dry cosmetic sponge, or damp sponge to give natural look. Also with a damp sponge you are likely to use less foundation than you would if you applied it with a dry sponge or your fingertips. Some make-up artists start from the forehead and work down, others from the nose and work outwards then downwards to the neck leaving the forehead till last.   Always blend to the hairline. I personally always work from the nose, as this was the way I was taught, working from the centre of the face outwards you are less likely to drag your skin.

Should you have facial hair that you are conscious of, apply your foundation in the way described then smooth over in the direction of the hair growth.  As long as you have covered your whole face, yes all of it, eyelids, and the inner corner of the eye near the nose and your lips you will have a lovely base to work on.

Foundation is used before powder and after correctors.  Below are few types that are on the market:

 

GELS:

Mostly for clear skin, can be used on black skin for a natural look.  Avoid blemished skin.

LIQUIDS:

These are good for oily and combination skin as they are water based, low in oil content and give a light protective film – not great coverage.

CREAMS:

Creams are better for dry, mature, even sensitive skin types, as cream is thicker and heavier with higher oil content.  Better protection for dry skins, as usually waterproof and protective on cold winter days.

CREAM MOUSSE:

A cream mousse is good for most skin types - light in texture, good coverage without heavy feeling of normal creams.  Popular foundation and normally comes in aerosol can.

BLOCK FOUNDATION:

Wonderful coverage although they can dry out the skin, suitable for oily, blemished, discoloured or acne skin type. 

ALL-IN-ONE:

Mixture of creams and powders in one they also come with a sponge for application.  Not suitable for sensitive or dry skins, more suitable for combination skin.

At this point I will add that if you have an oily skin type and are prone to having shine only a short time after your make-up has been applied, then I suggest that you should use an anti-shine gel before you start instead of moisturising cream.  Give time for it to be absorbed into the skin before applying your make-up.

 

FACE POWDERS:

Essential to set the foundation - providing a suitable surface for powder blushers, shader and highlighters to go directly onto the skin.   If you have ever applied your blusher and it goes on streaky, then your problem is that you have not applied enough powder.  Removes shiny appearance leaving the skin with a smooth and matt finish.   Always best applied with powder brush, if applied with a puff you may find that you will have heavier patches of powder and it doesn’t dust well.

PRESSED POWDER:

Comes in a compact with powder puff.  Handy for touching up and removing shine during the day, wash puff regularly to avoid oils from the face transferring to powder – as this hardens the powder and carries bacteria.   

LOOSE POWDER:

Usually comes in large container with removable lid. Apply light dusting with powder brush to give a smooth appearance to face.

IRIDESCENT POWDER:

Evening or special effects as has touches of silver and gold in.  Comes in pressed or loose form.  Great for dusting over the face to have that sun kissed look, best applied at the end of application of all make-up.

 

BLUSHERS:

Gives the skin a healthy glow if applied correctly, evens out the natural skin tone.    Emphasises good bone structure, draws attention to the eyes.  If you have a good colour you may not even need a blusher.  Blushers should be brushed along the cheekbone – no further in (towards the nose) from the centre of the eye and below the nostrils.  Always blend well.  If you find that you have gone streaky, this is cause you may not have applied enough powder and you blusher is not sticking to the foundation underneath.

The normal rule is that if you are using a powder blusher this is applied after you have dusted the face with loose powder.  If you are using a liquid, gel, cream, mousse, then this is applied after the concealer and before the dusting of loose powder.

MOUSSE – CREAM – LIQUID AND GEL:

Dotted over cheek area and blended well.  Apply before powder.

POWDER:

Applied with a blusher brush and blended well till the desired effect is reached.

EYE SHADOWS:

Can emphasise, add dimension, colour and draw attention to the eyes.   Apply with sponge applicator or brush.   They come in so many colours today that you could choose any colour you like.

POWDERS:

Compressed with added moisture to cling to the eyelid.  It may feel taught on dry skins but has staying power. 

CREAMS:

Has a tendency to crease, as oil based.  Apply with sponge or brush.  Avoid mature skin as will emphasise lined skin also as it warms with the body temperature it may seep into fine lines.

CRAYONS AND PENCILS;

Easy to apply to the eyelid, but it needs to be blended really well, sharpen after every client – hygienic. Care need when apply not to drag along skin.  Wax based.

 

EYELINER:

Apply before mascara and after eye shadow.  Good for emphasising the eye.

CRAYON OR PENCIL:

Always sharpen before and after use for hygiene reasons and also easier to work with.  A soft wax stick which can be used on all skin types and tones, unless allergic, avoid dragging on skin.  You can some lovely looks with a pencil; blended for a smokey look or only applied to centre of the eyeball to the outer side of the eye  (top eye lid and under the eye) will really open your eyes making them look really large.  If applied to the inner bottom of the eye, this will make the eyes look smaller.

LIQUID:

Oil based in water liner, applied with a fine sable haired brush. Unsuitable for ageing skin, as it would be difficult to apply and would emphasis fine lines.

 

EYEBROW PENCIL:

Used to define the eyebrows, also harshly plucked areas.  Sharpened before and after use for hygiene reasons.  There are many colours to choose from so you will almost get the perfect match.  

 

MASCARA:

Mascara is used to thicken, lengthen and colour the lashes.  This will also define the eye and make it complete.

LIQUID:

Tube with mascara brushes inside. Not all are waterproof or run proof.   Easy to apply, can be easily removed with the correct cleansers.  Lengthens, thickens lashes.  Be very careful not to get any into your eye.  Not really suitable for sensitive eyes.

GEL/CREAM:

Easy to apply, not run proof or waterproof.

BLOCK:

Wet brush to apply to lashes.

 

LIPSTICKS:

Lipstick is applied to add balance and colour to the face.   Liners are used to define or build, even reshape mouth.   Apply lipstick with lip brush.  Again sharpen after each use – hygiene.

CONVENTIONAL STICK:

Which provides excellent coverage.  They come in matt and glossy forms.

TUBE

Has it’s own applicator inside. Creamy and glossy, unsuitable for ageing skin - difficult to apply, emphasis lines around the mouth area.  Gloss would draw attention to lined area.

CRAYONS AND PENCILS:

Great for outlining the lips, also used for full cover for longer lasting matte finish.  More wax than oil content.

POTS:

Coloured gloss - adds sheer colour to lips, gloss over a lipstick.   Apply to the centre of the mouth, as it is prone to melt with the body temperature and spread.   Again be careful with ageing skin.

GLOSS

Gloss can be used to make a lovely sheen to your lips, but make a note that when you apply it, after you have put your liner on, use a small amount and put it in the centre of your mouth, as it will melt with your body temperature and move around your lips.  So only add a little at a time for the perfect look.

 

NOTE:

Lipstick/gloss being creamy will seep into vertical lines under body temperature – called bleeding - apply foundation to the mouth, dust with powder, use lip liner, all will help to set lipstick and make sure you get that wonderful look you are after.