
Here I will give
a brief outline of what each product is used for and how to use them.
But firstly a really good point to remember with make-up is:
Whatever brushes, sponges etc you use wash them in warm soapy water regularly to avoid a build up of bacteria. If you have a make-up palette, use it, as you will not be spreading any germs or leaving them in the products that you use daily. All you have to do is scrape a little off with an orange stick, place on your palette and work from that.
CORRECTORS:
Sometimes necessary to disguise prominent features and cover blemishes e.g. spots. Stick or liquid form - applied with a concealer brush, stippled evenly over the area. Correctors are applied on a fresh cleansed, toned and moisturised skin, before foundation.
Green
If you have a florid complexion or general redness, dilated arterioles
and broken capillaries, apply a green corrector.
Violet
Apply to a sallow complexion. As
violet will Improve and brighten the complexion.
White To be used under the eyes (dark circles) or lighten dark/yellow patches found on the face.
CONCEALERS:
For
covering imperfections on the face. Choose the correct shade for your skin,
texture and formulation for a natural look. All good stores will have testers,
ask the assistant if she minds you taking a small amount to try, go outside into
the natural daylight and try on the side of your face.
If it matches your skin tone then you know that you have the right one.
The aim is to get a concealer that will dry, hide your blemish and stay put on
your face. Apply with a concealer brush and blend carefully with the tip
of your finger. To be applied after
foundation and before powder.
Sticks
and pots tend to give
good coverage as they contain more pigment and are thicker in consistency.
Pens, tubes and wands Although are easier to use, they are less opaque. Lighter in texture and easier to blend. These are more suitable for people who do not wear much make up.
FOUNDATIONS:
There
are so many types of foundations on the market today.
The aim of a foundation is to colour and even out the complexion, also to
cover minor imperfections. When choosing a foundation try to match the colour as
near to your skin tone as possible. There
are basically three types of skin tone: rose, gold or beige.
Although a lot of the stores give foundations some wonderful names.
Again like a concealer the best way to test if it is the one for you is
to ask the assistant for a small sample and go outside into the natural daylight
and apply it on your jawbone (half way between the mouth and your ear), then
just gently blend it in. This way
when will get the true colour as it will balance nicely with your face and neck
tone. Remember not to apply it over
the foundation that you already have on!
For
best coverage when apply to the whole of the face is to put some on a dry
cosmetic sponge, or damp sponge to give natural look. Also with a damp sponge
you are likely to use less foundation than you would if you applied it with a
dry sponge or your fingertips. Some make-up artists start from the forehead and
work down, others from the nose and work outwards then downwards to the neck
leaving the forehead till last. Always
blend to the hairline. I personally always work from the nose, as this was the
way I was taught, working from the centre of the face outwards you are less
likely to drag your skin.
Should
you have facial hair that you are conscious of, apply your foundation in the way
described then smooth over in the direction of the hair growth.
As long as you have covered your whole face, yes all of it, eyelids, and
the inner corner of the eye near the nose and your lips you will have a lovely
base to work on.
Foundation is used before powder and after correctors. Below are few types that are on the market:
GELS:
Mostly for
clear skin, can be used on black skin for a natural look.
Avoid blemished skin.
LIQUIDS:
These are
good for oily and combination skin as they are water based, low in oil content
and give a light protective film not great coverage.
CREAMS:
Creams are
better for dry, mature, even sensitive skin types, as cream is thicker and
heavier with higher oil content. Better
protection for dry skins, as usually waterproof and protective on cold winter
days.
CREAM
MOUSSE:
A cream
mousse is good for most skin types - light in texture, good coverage without
heavy feeling of normal creams. Popular
foundation and normally comes in aerosol can.
BLOCK
FOUNDATION:
Wonderful
coverage although they can dry out the skin, suitable for oily, blemished,
discoloured or acne skin type.
ALL-IN-ONE:
Mixture of
creams and powders in one they also come with a sponge for application.
Not suitable for sensitive or dry skins, more suitable for combination
skin.
At this point I will add that if you have an oily skin type and are prone to having shine only a short time after your make-up has been applied, then I suggest that you should use an anti-shine gel before you start instead of moisturising cream. Give time for it to be absorbed into the skin before applying your make-up.
FACE
POWDERS:
Essential to
set the foundation - providing a suitable surface for powder blushers, shader
and highlighters to go directly onto the skin.
If you have ever applied your blusher and it goes on streaky, then your
problem is that you have not applied enough powder.
Removes shiny appearance leaving the skin with a smooth and matt finish. Always best applied with powder brush, if applied with
a puff you may find that you will have heavier patches of powder and it
doesnt dust well.
PRESSED
POWDER:
Comes in a compact with powder puff. Handy for touching up and removing shine during the day, wash puff regularly to avoid oils from the face transferring to powder as this hardens the powder and carries bacteria.
LOOSE
POWDER:
Usually comes
in large container with removable lid. Apply light dusting with powder brush to
give a smooth appearance to face.
IRIDESCENT
POWDER:
Evening or special effects as has touches of silver and gold in. Comes in pressed or loose form. Great for dusting over the face to have that sun kissed look, best applied at the end of application of all make-up.
BLUSHERS:
Gives
the skin a healthy glow if applied correctly, evens out the natural skin tone.
Emphasises good bone structure, draws attention to the eyes.
If you have a good colour you may not even need a blusher. Blushers should be brushed along the cheekbone no further
in (towards the nose) from the centre of the eye and below the nostrils.
Always blend well. If you find that you have gone streaky, this is cause you may
not have applied enough powder and you blusher is not sticking to the foundation
underneath.
The
normal rule is that if you are using a powder blusher this is applied after you
have dusted the face with loose powder. If
you are using a liquid, gel, cream, mousse, then this is applied after the
concealer and before the dusting of loose powder.
MOUSSE
CREAM LIQUID AND GEL:
Dotted
over cheek area and blended well. Apply
before powder.
POWDER:
Applied
with a blusher brush and blended well till the desired effect is reached.
EYE
SHADOWS:
Can
emphasise, add dimension, colour and draw attention to the eyes.
Apply with sponge applicator or brush.
They come in so many colours today that you could choose any colour you
like.
POWDERS:
Compressed
with added moisture to cling to the eyelid.
It may feel taught on dry skins but has staying power.
CREAMS:
Has
a tendency to crease, as oil based. Apply
with sponge or brush. Avoid mature
skin as will emphasise lined skin also as it warms with the body temperature it
may seep into fine lines.
CRAYONS AND
PENCILS;
Easy
to apply to the eyelid, but it needs to be blended really well, sharpen after
every client hygienic. Care need when apply not to drag along skin.
Wax based.
EYELINER:
Apply before
mascara and after eye shadow. Good
for emphasising the eye.
CRAYON
OR PENCIL:
Always
sharpen before and after use for hygiene reasons and also easier to work with.
A soft wax stick which can be used on all skin types and tones, unless
allergic, avoid dragging on skin. You
can some lovely looks with a pencil; blended for a smokey look or only applied
to centre of the eyeball to the outer side of the eye
(top eye lid and under the eye) will really open your eyes making them
look really large. If applied to
the inner bottom of the eye, this will make the eyes look smaller.
LIQUID:
Oil
based in water liner, applied with a fine sable haired brush. Unsuitable for
ageing skin, as it would be difficult to apply and would emphasis fine lines.
EYEBROW
PENCIL:
Used to define the eyebrows, also harshly plucked areas. Sharpened before and after use for hygiene reasons. There are many colours to choose from so you will almost get the perfect match.
MASCARA:
Mascara is
used to thicken, lengthen and colour the lashes.
This will also define the eye and make it complete.
LIQUID:
Tube
with mascara brushes inside. Not all are waterproof or run proof.
Easy to apply, can be easily removed with the correct cleansers.
Lengthens, thickens lashes. Be
very careful not to get any into your eye.
Not really suitable for sensitive eyes.
GEL/CREAM:
Easy
to apply, not run proof or waterproof.
BLOCK:
Wet brush to apply to lashes.
LIPSTICKS:
Lipstick is applied to add balance and colour to the
face. Liners are used to
define or build, even reshape mouth.
Apply lipstick with lip brush. Again
sharpen after each use hygiene.
CONVENTIONAL
STICK:
Which
provides excellent coverage. They
come in matt and glossy forms.
TUBE
Has its
own applicator inside. Creamy and glossy, unsuitable for ageing skin - difficult
to apply, emphasis lines around the mouth area.
Gloss would draw attention to lined area.
CRAYONS
AND PENCILS:
Great
for outlining the lips, also used for full cover for longer lasting matte
finish. More wax than oil content.
POTS:
Coloured
gloss - adds sheer colour to lips, gloss over a lipstick.
Apply to the centre of the mouth, as it is prone to melt with the body
temperature and spread. Again be careful with ageing skin.
Gloss
can be used to make a lovely sheen to your lips, but make a note that when you
apply it, after you have put your liner on, use a small amount and put it in the
centre of your mouth, as it will melt with your body temperature and move around
your lips. So only add a little at
a time for the perfect look.
NOTE:
Lipstick/gloss being creamy will seep into vertical lines under body temperature called bleeding - apply foundation to the mouth, dust with powder, use lip liner, all will help to set lipstick and make sure you get that wonderful look you are after.