HINTS & TIPS

• Exporting/Importing - When exporting out of AutoCAD I prefer to export as a .3DS file compaired to importing a .DWG or .DXF file into Max because not only will a .3DS file retain any AutoCAD mapped materails and mapping co-ordinates but traditionally the .3DS extension has been 3D Studio's native file type since the DOS days of Release 1 and will faithfully import ALL data into Max. DWG's, DXF's and a few others I haven't mentioned haven't always been as reliable.

• I prefer not to use 3d Studio's resident camera matching tool because it requires too many reference points which you usually wont have and besides, I've always believed that the human eye/brain combination will always be a better judge than the computer's say so.

• For this type of montaging (compared to close quarter compositing where shadows will be cast on existing structures) the MATTE/SHADOW material in 3ds is rarely used.

• Generally when setting up your camera, a larger lens (say 150mm to 200mm) will give straighter and less distorted results than a smaller lens. Saying that, if a standard 35mm or 50mm lens fits the bill then go with it!

• When moving and fine tuning the camera to get that exact match, hide all unnecessary objects from the scene to speed up regeneration time.

• Whilst taking the original source photograph for the montage backround, remember to record down as much information as possible i.e. - where you were standing, what lens size you were using. This will save allot of frustration later on in 3ds.

• Do take time and effort in the Photoshop stage as this will determine the final look of the image. This is where you can rescue an average render to look superb, or totally ruin a good looking render. As always, time, patience and practice are the key words. If you complete these tutorials in under 2 hours, you'll have one unhappy client.