LPG conversion

This page is for information on converting a car to run on LPG yourself. This one is about a Rover Sterling, perfect candidate as it does about 25mpg on petrol and gives very quick payback time on the conversion costs. The V6 is a peach running on LPG too, and works brilliantly with the autobox. An added bonus is that the tappet rattle which tends to occur on the Honda engine is alleviated by the really clean oil when running on LPG .. a problem which used to get annoying by 3k miles after an oil change is not back after 8k miles still !

The first additions can be seen on this picture (click for larger, annotated version). You can see where the mixer is fixed to the throttle body (it is sealed with silicone, and held on with a grub screw in the side). The vaporiser is mounted on the left hand upper suspension arm bolt, and hangs securely at the rear of the engine.

The vaporiser needs a coolant feed from the engine, to prevent the expansion of the gas from liquid to vapour causing freezing (LPG is a great refrigerant, shame you can't easily fill your AC system with it - 40p a fill anyone :) I found the best place to plumb this in is by diverting the oil cooler return hose (item 14 in the picture). This will easily reach if you remove the rubber end where this goes back to the coolant manifold (under the throttle body) and plug this into one of the vaporiser water outlets. A new piece of hose is then used to join the other vaporiser outlet back to the coolant manifold. This forms a permanent flow circuit in the coolant system with little disruption.

This shows positioning of the Leonardo controller - with all of the other equipment installed in a Sterling engine bay this is about the only place left ! it also offers good protection from heat and damp, so is a natural choice. Also the sole access hole into the passenger compartment (I mean the only one _already_ there, no need to drill anything) is just below the brake servo also on this side.

Slight close up of the controller, this shows where the injector cut-off wiring is placed. The red wire in the pack of 7 going to the injector relay pack is cut and connected back to the normally-connected relay in the controller, this is set to engergise when the LPG mode is selected - thus cutting the petrol to the engine off.

These next two pictures show the tank and its mounting, which is quite straight-forward using threaded M10 rod through the boot floor. The front-most bolts go through the angled floor though, so need about 30 degree bends putting in them.

You can see more clearly on this photo where the solenoid is mounted inside the tank (to protect the main feed line in the case of an accident). It's bolted securely through the bottom of the tank base and wired in parallel with the gas solenoid wire on the vaporiser, they both turn the gas on when the ECU gives the change-over signal and they cut the gas when the engine stops running.

Mounting of the filler. There's a paper template sticker that comes with the filler, you stick this to the bodywork and drill the required holes (the main 28mm centre one can be done with a ring of small holes and a file, but I borrowed a hole borer to do this one .. takes a lot of care !)

The finished article ..

Parts list

Final stage is the fitting of a new front exhaust manifold complete with Lambda probe, supplied by Barrem Motors. This requires removing the radiator to gain access to the manifold, as well as lowering the front exhaust section away. This was done over a couple of (very cold !) evenings, and the car returned to its rightful owner. See its home at RoverSterling.co.uk.

Links

Additional

Here's a quick picture of a cylinder tank, this one fitted in the boot of a Jaguar XJS. Note the nice LPG vent hosing to keep it all gas-tight in the case of an escape, unfortunately the original fitters didn't think this was worth doing and we did this ourselves to make it safe and COP11 compliant.

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