Fully detailed installation instructions.

WARMTOUCH

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

When planning the installation of the Warmtouch system the first and most important thing to do is PUT THE KETTLE ON, MAKE A CUP OF TEA AND READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

The Warmtouch system is designed to heat a tiled floor in a conservatory, kitchen, bathroom or extension. The system can be laid on a concrete/insulated concrete slab - sand & cement/insulated sand & cement screed - sound timber suspended/insulated sound timber suspended floor. The inclusion of insulation in the above forms of construction will obviously make the heating system more efficient with cheaper running costs. However, under tile heating places the heat were it’s required and is therefore an efficient use of energy when compared to wall mounted panel heaters.

Warmtouch Components

Heating elements: the elements are multi-stranded fixed resistance alloy conductors insulated with cross-linked Polyethylene and complies with all relevant European standards.

Thermostat: the electronic programmable thermostat is rated for high current applications and comes with a small remote sensor for the maximum flexibility of positioning and control. A remote floor sensor can be provided as an optional extra if required.

Accessories: The system is supplied with a copy of the installation instructions - thermostat instructions - sufficient clips to attach the element to the floor.

Power Supply

For systems up to and including 14 sq.m. the power can be taken from a ring main power socket - either as a fused spur or with a flex and 13 amp 3 pin plug.

For any system over 14 sq.m. A dedicated supply, of the correct size, must be provided from your consumer unit. If unsure on any aspect of the installation you must consult a qualified electrician.

Thermostat Positioning

The position of the thermostat is largely determined by the position of the power supply and the element cold tails, however, the thermostat remote sensor should be positioned at around head height in the room to be controlled - Wraysbury can supply a schematic of the suggested options. The thermostat will require programming and this must be considered when positioning.

Floor Construction

As stated above the Warmtouch system can be fixed to a variety of floor constructions.

Insulated Sand & Cement Screed: This construction is very efficient and consists of sharp sand and cement screed (65 mm) over insulation (including perimeter insulation) over concrete subfloor. The advantages of this construction is that the heat is contained within the screed for efficiency and the clips are easier to fix directly to the screed.

Insulated Concrete Slab: The concrete is laid onto insulation, including perimeter insulation, and will create a greater heat sink and will take a little longer to heat up and longer to cool down. Due to the aggregate in most concrete's the clips will be harder to fix, the masonry drill and plugs may have to be used.

Sand & Cement Screed: This construction will allow the clips to be fixed easily if new, old screeds can be very hard and might require plugging with the masonry drill and plugs supplied. As the screed is laid directly onto the subfloor concrete the system will take a little longer to heat up and longer to cool due to the greater heat sink created with this construction.

Concrete Slab: As with any concrete floor the aggregate in the concrete may make fixing of the clips difficult and with no insulation this construction is generally the least thermally efficient.

Timber Suspended floor: The floor should be sound and firmly fixed to the joists below, if possible insulation should be included between joists. Before fixing of the elements the floor should have a coating of around 1-1.5 mm of latex levelling compound over the areas to be heated. This will provide a smooth surface and separate the element from the timber decking. The element is easily clipped to the timber decking below.

Encapsulation of the Elements

Once the element is fixed to the floor it is important to encapsulate to provide a uniform resistance over it’s whole length. The element is 3.5 mm thick and will require around 6 -7 mm from the floor to encapsulate.

A great deal of experience is required to mix and lay 6 - 7 mm of levelling compound in one go, however, the levelling compound can be applied in two separate layers. Great care should be taken, when spreading the compound, not to damage the element with the trowel - a wooden or plastic floating trowel is recommended. The levelling compound (ensure compatibility with timber on a suspended floor) can be obtained from builders or tiling merchants in 25kg. bags and each bag will cover around 1.75 to 2 sq.m. at 6-7 mm thick. Each layer will take around two to three hours to set and once fully dry creates a good surface ready to tile. It should be noted that: most levelling compounds do not like plaster. Therefore if plaster work has been carried out in the area to be heated, any contamination of plaster or plaster dust to the floor must be scraped and swept and preferably the floor should be sealed with 50:50 Unibond and water mix and allowed to dry.

Fixing the Element.

Tips.

Work methodically and plan the installation.

Only the cold tails (red covered cable) can be cut and shortened, under no circumstances should the element itself be shortened.

The length indicated on the element labels refers only to the element not the cold tails, the 3 m. cold tails are for routing to the thermostat position.

When clipping the element to the floor no part of the element should cross or touch any other part of the element.

Test clip in various parts of the floor (not required with suspended timber) to ensure that the floor is capable of taking the clips directly, if too hard or too much aggregate then use the masonry drill and plugs.

When clipping the element to the floor great care must be taken not to damage the element.

The elements are provided in two forms, under 1075 watts the element will be a loose coil and from 1075 watts the element is on a cardboard drum. Undo the ties on a loose coil element and unwind the coil hand over hand, in part, within the room or in total in an adjoining area or garden. An element on a drum can be used on a drum cradle or, if not available, lay the drum on it’s side on the floor and pull off a small amount at a time. The above methods are to ensure that the element does not tangle and therefore frustrate you in the time required to untangle.

You will have by now calculated the area of the floor to be heated and ordered the appropriate system.

Measure the longest length of the room, or the direction you intend to lay the element, and deduct 75mm from each end (150mm overall). Then divide this length into the length of the element as indicated on the label (if two elements are used then add together both lengths). This will give you the amount of lengths in each metre, then divide 1000 by the number of lengths in a metre and this will give you the spacing in millimetres.

Example

Room to be heated is 4m.X 3m. Elements: 1 x 1375w & 1 x 1075w combined length 189m.

Therefore: 3.850 divided into 189m. = 49.090 lengths

3000mm divided by 49.090 = 61.112mm spacing Therefore 61mm.

With each system we supply detail sheets to enable you to work out example areas and suggested element layouts.

Mark, using the felt pen, a dot on the floor every 61mm at each end of the room about 150mm from each wall. Plan the route you intend to take the cables allowing enough space to return the first and route and return the second element. Clip the start of the element to the floor to follow the route you have planned. When clipping a number of small firm blows with the hammer is better than large hard blows - care must be taken to ensure the element is not damaged during clipping. At the first mark clip again - form a loop 75mm from the wall and clip again on the next mark - using a third clip tension the first run and clip at the apex of the loop. This hand tension is important on each run, as this will make the element hug the floor and minimise any floating of the element when encapsulating. All of the element must be clipped to the floor and encapsulated, only use the cold tails outside the floor area.

Continue over the whole floor area. If two elements are supplied with the system you should keep watch as you come to the end of the first element to ensure you can route the end back to the start. It may be best to work backwards when nearing the end of the element.

Intermediate clipping (around 1.5m apart along the length of each run) is essential to hold the element down during encapsulation with the levelling compound to minimise the element’s tendency to float. If you wish to reduce or eliminate intermediate clipping you can try the following:

Once the whole floor heating elements are clipped and tensioned at each end and the cold tails routed, cut battens (tiling battens are OK) to lay across the elements at 90 degs. And plug and screw them down between the element runs, pour and level the first coat of levelling compound over the floor and when dry remove the battens and pour the final encapsulation layer over the whole floor and this will run into any batten gaps to produce a smooth floor ready to tile.

Thermostat Fixing & Connection

Suggestions for position of the thermostat are included with every system.

Screw the thermostat backing plate (loosen small screw on underside of thermostat and remove cover) to your chosen position. The power supply and the cold tails can be hidden under plasterwork in a conduit or in a surface mounted conduit. Up to 14 sq.m. The power can be supplied to the thermostat by a cable and a 13 amp 3 pin plug if required. Despite the thermostat position you have chosen the small remote sensor must be in the room to be heated and placed at around head height. The small coil of wire (approximately 3m) supplied with the system is for wiring the thermostat to the sensor. Even if the thermostat is place at head height in the room to be heated the sensor must be wired to it at the side of the thermostat.

Once the wiring of the thermostat is complete (see enclosed wiring diagram), replace the thermostat cover and tighten the small screw fixing at the bottom. Pull down the front thermostat cover and remove red separator to energise the built in batteries. Using the thermostat instructions input your times and temperatures. Then you can test all connections for safety. Allow time for the base, levelling compound, tiling adhesive and grout to dry out before using your new heating system.

IF IN DOUBT ABOUT ANY PART OF THIS INSTALLATION  CONSULT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.

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