16th July. 10.30pm.
The gods smiled on me today. I set my alarm for 6.00 am. and woke to find the wind had died down and the sky cleared. Despite the thunder storm at 3.00 am.! I packed up my tent and then managed to buy some sandwiches and chocolate bars from the refuge before setting off with my new friend, Christoff.
Initially we struggled to find the path out of the valley, and the language barrier didn't help out our team work. Eventually we picked up the track, and even some faded paint marks, and then enjoyed an airy traverse round to Port de Viejo, our first col of the day, that gave us good views back to Barroude and its cirque of cliffs. We then picked our way along the frontier ridge in a cold wind whilst cloud spilled up the French valleys to our left. The ridge provided good sport with not too much up and down, and with extensive views of the dry craggy peaks and pine forests of Spain on our right.
The first section of ridge took us over the road tunnel of 'de Bielsa' 800m beneath our feet. We had an occasional
glimpse of the tunnel entrance on the French side through the swirling clouds, but the road on the Spanish side was hidden
from view by precipitous crags below us. The ridge continued over Pic de Bataillence, following vague sheep tracks over the
shattered schist which was loose and slippy in places.
Photo: On the Rioumanjou ridge looking back West towards Barroude
Christoff proved to be a very fast mover over rough terrain and was clearly used to walking in mountain country. But it wasn't entirely without risk, as he slipped a few times and actally went head over heels on one occasion! I decided to continue at my own sedate pace and concentrate on safety, especially in such a remote spot. We walked all day and didn't see a soul!
After Pic de Bataillance we had to traverse the bigger craggier summit of Crete de Moudage on the French side. By now the cloud had filled the French valleys right up to the frontier ridge where it swirled in great columns as the cold damp air from the north met the warm dry air from Spain. We sank into the cloud following a small path and an occasional cairn. Eventually... we found our way to the Col de Moudang where we ate a quick lunch in the hazy borderland between cloud and sun.
The buildings of Rioumonjou are well looked after and include a cafe which is open during the day for hot snacks. When we arrived they were just closing up but I managed to buy a beer and, more importantly, a loaf of bread. And who should be sat outside as we walked up - but Chris and Jim!
Christoff disappeared with the guardian of the cafe for aperatifs whilst I caught up with the news from Chris and Jim during the past ten days. We camped on the designated camp ground and lit a large bonfire to keep the cold and damp at bay. It turned out to be a very enjoyable and sociable evening!
Photo: Christophe enjoying the campfire in the Rioumanjou valley
17th July. 7.00pm.
Chris, Jim and I made an early start and left Rioumonjou with clear blue skies above us, but with the valley still deep in shade. Today was to be a short day, much needed by me after the exertions of yesterday. The climb up to Puerto de Cauarere started nicely on a good path through the pine forest, but then we took a wrong track as a result of misleading contours on the map and had to retrace our steps before slogging up 300m of steep scree to the top.
Thankfully the path down the other side was a delight as it descended on a good path, marked by paint flashes, at an easy gradient. Initially across a wide grassy corrie and then zig zagging down through sweet smelling pine trees in the warm sunshine. Only the horse flies were a nuisance. At the valley bottom we dropped our sacks, took off our boots, and settled down to a long lunch break and serious sunbathing session. I washed my shirt and socks and put them to dry in the sun and resigned myself to staying in the valley to camp with Chris and Jim. I was already feeling tired, after the short morning, and I was starting to feel the effect of not eating very well since leaving Barroude. I need to meet Gill and Ian at Viellha in five days' time. I have already accepted that there will not be enough time to climb Aneto, but given my current state and lack of provisions, I think I will have to take some time out to go to Loudenvielle tomorrow - have a good square meal with the lads and then go to the supermarket. Chris and Jim are meeting some friends there on Saturday.
After a good long bake in the sun we climbed a couple of kilometres up the Cinquerta de la Pez to camp. This is one of the most beautiful and unspoilt valleys that I have visited. It's sides are scattered with natural pine forest and the river valley and its many tributaries are just a mass of cascades and waterfalls. The cliffs here are reddish-brown, less steep and more rugged than around Gavarnie and it gives the place a softer feel. There is only one path up the valley and we only saw about eight people all day, including Christoff, who has headed down to Viadas for the night.
The weather has certanly taken a turn for the better, the sky is still a clear blue, even in the evening. I will hope for a nice day to go to Loudenvielle tomorrow.
18th July. 7.45 am.
After depriving myself of food on the previous day [dinner was dry bread and sausicon] and feeling unwell yesterday afternoon, I used up my rations and had a meal of cous-cous and fish last night. I immediately felt better!
It was cold last night, camped as we were at 2200m. Jim and Chris didn't sleep too well in the lightweight sleeping bags - the battle continues!
We rose at 5.30 am in the dark, and scrambled up the steep climb to Col de la Pez. I am now sat on the ridge in the sun with the valley below still in deep shadow. The sky is clear blue and the shadows from the mountain ridges are casting diagonal straight lines in the early moring mist. Breakfast is only a couple of cereal bars, but what a place to eat it! It's all downhill from here to Loudenvielle."
18th July. 7.30 pm.
The path down from the ridge came down a very steep slope, but zig zagged beautifully and was actually quite easy. Valley de la Pez on the French side of the border proved to be almost as beautiful as that on the Spanish side. The river beds here are a mass of huge boulders and it is evident that there is a huge run-off from the mountains here each Spring when the snow melts. The path picked its way through the debris, past a shepherd's hut on the edge of the meadows and then plunged into a huge, shady beech forest where it dropped down to the Pont de Prat at the road-head.
We were glad of the shade by this stage as it was a baking hot day. We had hoped to find a lift down the final 7km to Loudenveille, but this wasn't possible so we walked down the road and tracks in the heat. We arrived at about 2 pm and headed straight for the bar where we quenched our thirst with a few beers. The whole of Loudenvielle is in the height of preparations for the arrival of the Tour de France over the weekend. Hosting the Tour is clearly a big event and there are fields cordoned off for camping and marquees everywhere.
I have had a shower and stocked up with provisions from the supermarket, and hope to escape tomorrow morning before the human onslaught arrives! Meanwhile, this is just about half way to the Mediterranean, so Jim, Chris and I plan to celebrate with a good meal and a glass or two of vino this evening!
19th July. 1.00 pm.
We had a good, if pricey, meal last night, sat outside a local restaurant which had erected canvas covers to increase the seating for the Tour de France weekend. Then we retired to the campsite and sat out to well after dark drinking wine and chatting. All very sociable and enjoyable!
I woke at 6.00 am and packed up as quietly as possible, and then managed to hitch a lift back up the valley to Port du Prat. Chris and Jim have stayed in Loudenvielle to meet Kat and Al. I expect they will catch me up in a few days. I had expected to find my sack uncomfortably heavy with my new supplies but surprisingly it didn't feel too bad. It just goes to show what a good meal can do!
An excellent path zig zagged up from Port du Prat, following the route of two big pipes feeding the hydro-electric power station. And overhead were the cables for a cable car. Having climbed steeply for a few hundred metres the path then levelled out above a gorge and then traversed dramatically high above the river. The path had been carved out of the cliff face, presumably to build the dam higher up the valley, but despite being a good path it felt quite airy in places where the cliffs plummeted to the river 300m below.
The Refuge of La Soula is situated next to another power station and I emerged into the sunshine as I arrived. The valley above was a series of cascades and gorges and I took time out to sit by the river on two occasions and enjoy the scenery. I am writing this having enjoyed a substantial lunch - it is so nice to have good supplies again! I will take good care to ensure that I do not run short again; it was no fun being hungry and having to walk for miles!
8.30pm.
After the good morning and plentiful lunch, I decided to press on this afternoon to Refuge de Portillon.
It has made it a very long day, but it means that I might still be able to meet Ian and Gill at Viellha on Tuesday. This
afternoon I passed up and over the glaciated passes of the Gourgs Blancs. It was very rough going, and I
have spent about five hours either boulder hopping or trudging through wet snow. The scenery was awesome though!
The area is dotted with lakes which are greeny-blue against the stark grey rocks. There is virtually no greenery up here, but with the sun shining it has a rugged beauty all of its own. The higher lakes still had bergs of snow in them, which were a vivid turquoise under the water. The descent to the refuge was over granite slabs - the first granite I have seen. It was a steep climb down and involved some delicate scrambling which would have been fun if I hadn't been so tired.
Photo: The glaciated wilderness of the Pico des Gourgs Blanc, en route to Refuge du Portillon
The refuge is heaving [it being Saturday night] but I have camped next to the wall of the dam with a fabulous view over the lake to the glacier and rocky peaks opposite. On the right of the lake water jets out of a hole in the rock like an outlet from a hydro scheme, but I think this is a natural phenomenon. Christophe is here and popped over to say 'hello' and share an aperitif of Pastis with me. I could get used to it!
20th July. 2.00 pm.
After yesterday's exertions I didn't jump out of bed this morning, but packed up in a leisurely fashion and left R. Portillon at about 8.00am. It was quite a breezy morning and as I climbed up into the rough rocky valley it picked up more, so that some of the gusts were making me stagger. The going was rough again, with a choice between boulder hopping and snow. I kept to the snow where possible and carried my ice axe. The climb was soon over and I kicked my way across the relatively level glacier to the Col de Literole. The view both east and west was of a glaciated landscape, still very much covered with snow.
The way onwards was across a snow-covered valley, quite steep in places, which I yomped down with my axe, passing some French walkers who were having to go very carefully with just poles. There were still large bergs of snow in the lochan down to my right as I picked my way across granite boulders to cross the ridge where a fantastic view opened up down a long green valley to the east, leading all the way down to Plan d'Estans.
The way down was again down snow slopes and boulder fields, but at least the wind was now on my back. Boulder hopping on these granite boulders is actually quite easy as they are generally large blocks, and the friction is fantasic. The path dropped into a narrow valley where I was forced to trust banks of snow that were bridging the stream as it tumbled down into the valley below. Eventually the path crossed the river [and I got my feet wet] and then improved as it dropped into the wider green pastures below. Here there were family groups out for their Sunday picnic - a shock after being in the wilderness above.
I have now stopped for lunch before pressing on to Plan d'Estaru. There are some really strong gusts of wind now, and I wouldn't be surprised to see a storm later. I will get as far as I can before camping to make tomorrow's final leg to Viellha de Hospice as short as possible.
I managed to get a text through to Gill earlier to confirm I am going to Viellha. That was a relief!
6.00pm.
Well, since lunchtime I have made it as far as the Pllan dels Aiguallut which cuts a bit off tomorrow's leg. Also, the campsite here is perfect! A lovely flat and grassy pitch at the top of a grassy plain, next to a river, and in the shadow of Aneto. In fact, I can see Aneto's glacier through my tent door. The only minus point is that it is showery, so I am having to cook under canvas. It is appropriate that I should have a nice wild camp on my last night out alone for the next two weeks. There is a huge hotel at Hospital de Benasque and a large car park near by that was packed with cars as I descended into the valley. There were people everywhere, walking and sitting by the river.Note: there is also a large and well equipped campsite a couple of miles down the Benasque valley, which Chris & Jim visited later
I had expected a broad, featureless glacial valley, but in fact it is very beautiful. The valley bottom is quite narrow with rocky outcrops and pine trees through which the path twists and turns. There is also a minor road up the valley and a bus service disgorges people out at the valley head, a short walk from Refuge Renclusa. Better than allowing cars up the valley, but still it gives it a rather commercial air. I haven't got time to climb Aneto, but seeing all those people, I'm not unhappy to miss it out!
It has been a really big day today, with all this morning being over very rough terrain, but I seemed to cope with it quite easily - perhaps I am getting fit after all!?