26th June - 9.20pm
After a good sleep in the luxury of a bed, I threw back the shutters to see drizzle and the cloud down over the hills. Consequently we took our time over breakfast and didn't get away from Les Aldudes until 9.30am.
The main HRP route now climbs steeply out of the village and follows a high ridge southwards to join the frontier at Lindux, but given the poor weather I agreed with Chris and Jim to follow the old route along the bottom of the valley and then up forest track to Lindux. The route had been changed to avoid the initial few kilometres of road walking, which we felt was preferable to walking in cloud.
The walk along the road was actually very interesting. The farms here still operate a very old-fashioned system of agriculture. The river was diverted through many of the farms to provide power to water wheels, we saw Saddleback pigs out in the fields and the fish being fed at a fish farm. It just goes to show that variety is the key to enjoying a long walk.
The climb throught the forest was pleasant too but we were soon in the cloud and then have been walking in the fog all day. The border does a peculiar loop North here, but the HRP thankfully ignores it and keeps to the high watershed in Spain. We trudged along this on roads and tracks, crossing a main road at the Roncevaux pass where we had lunch in the shelter of a modern chapel. We continued round the flanks of Mendi Chipi now at an altitude of about 1400m.
This section shares the route with the GR11 and the GR65. This latter route is the pilgrims way from Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostella and is supposed to have been walked by St Jaques. As we walked we passed a number of pilgrims, mainly young people, plodding along in the opposite direction.
Once past the large round-topped hill of Mendi Chipi we found water at a shepherds fountain and then camped at the next col, still at over 1300m. It's a fairly exposed spot but though it is foggy and wet it is not too windy, so we should be OK. I feel much better now I have got a hot meal inside me! We have walked 20km and climbed 1500m today. My feet feel sore and have developed a couple of new blisters - but we have made really good progress.
27th June - 9.00pm
The fog was still rolling past the tents this morning. Chris and Jim had another cold night after posting their sleeping bags back to the UK. It looks like their efforts to reduce weight were a bit too drastic!
Today comprised a section along high tracks along the frontier followed by two big ups and downs. The first over the craggy limestone shoulder of Errozate and then over the big round-toppped lump of Occabe, finishing up in the Iraty forest.
We were very slow along the first section and Jim didn't look at all happy, being both tired and with aching feet. We took some shelter in a tin refuge at Col d'Orgambide, where we saw a large flock of Vultures devouring a dead sheep. A sinister sight in the cold damp fog!
At the bottom of the first big climb I decided to press on ahead at my own pace, whilst Jim and Chris were thinking about heading North to find a town where they could have a break and buy some new sleeping bags. I know that I will miss their company but I am happy to be alone again and to be able to move at my own speed and stop when I want. Walking in company is always a compromise and my spirits rose as I strode over the shoulder of Errozate.
There were no paths for the descent into the next valley and the climb up onto Occabe, and it was nice to stride across the soft springy turf. The cloud base was lifting at last, and I enjoyed some views as I walked. This is high and bleak farming country not unlike parts of North Wales but on a grand scale. I saw a number of shepherds working their flocks on the steep hillsides.
Back in the fog on Occabe I rejoined the GR10 and passed the eerie shapes of ponies grazing on the high pastures. The ponies here are quite big and a rich brown colour with blond manes. Then it was steeply downhill into the Beech forests of Iraty. I tried a chalet/hotel where I thought I might get a bed, but it was closed so I continued into the valley where I have found a lovely communal camping spot by the river. I have just enjoyed a leisurely meal whilst watching the local fly-fishermen hunting for trout.
Today was the second big day in a row, and my feet stood up to it reasonably well. I am tired but not exhausted, and at last feel as if I am beginning to get into my stride!
28th June 10.00 am
Well, I'm still here by my tent. I have got a short day today, and it is very nice just lazing about and not having to worry about getting to the day's destination.
This is a lovely spot to camp, with the trout stream bubbling past and the black redstarts chirping in the bushes. There was a thunderstorm in the early hours of the morning and each clap of thunder seemed to go on for about half a minute as it rolled and echoed around the hills.
But this morning the weather seems to be improving. Big banks of cloud are hanging in the valleys, but there are patches of blue sky in between. I am hopeful for a clear day tomorrow for the traverse of Pic d'Orhy. Today I will walk up the valley to Col Bagargui where I can restock with provisions, get a good meal and stay in a gite before embarking on the next stage. It will only take me about two hours to walk up there, so I can enjoy a leisurely day, hopefully with some sunshine."
1.30 pm
Well, I have strolled up to Col Bagargui through the beech forests. There isn't much here! It is basically a holiday chalet complex with a bar-restaurant and a small shop. If Jim and Chris come here desparate to buy some sleeping bags they will be sorely disappointed!
A jolly looking Frenchman (not unlike Santa Claus) introduced himself on the terrace. His name is Jacques and he is doing the HRP with his friend. Perhaps I will meet them again?
I am at 1300m here, and banks of cloud keep drifting across the terrace outside, and then the sun comes out again. I am sat in the restaurant with a beer and looking forward to a slap-up lunch. Bon appetite!"
8.30 pm
Lunch was good and then I was able to get a few provisions in the meagre little shop here. The petrol station, promised in the guide book, is no longer here, and I am short on fuel. I just hope that I have enough for my pasta meal tomorrow night.
This afternoon the skies cleared, the sun has come out, and the views to the east are stunning. I think I can see the Cirque d'Ansaberre and Pic du Midi Ossau in the distance, where the mountains are just a jagged wall of bare rock! It all looks quite intimidating. There isn't much visible snow, so my ice axe might be redundant, though I suppose I am not looking at the north facing slopes from here. Time will tell.
This evening I bumped into Mathias and Noel who I met on Thursday [24th] on the Iparla ridge. They look in good shape and are making good progress on the GR10, though they said the climb up here was hot work today. In some ways the GR10 is harder than the HRP, as it is at lower altitudes where the heat is more intense.
Well, I am going to read my book for an hour and then retire early, ready for the big day tomorrow.
29th June. 3.30 pm
Every day is differnet here! Today the sky was blue and the sun shone but it was blowing a gale! Still, I made it over Pic d'Orhy OK, though it was hard work carrying the pack in that wind. I was constantly being buffeted and knocked off balance. The approach was across a steep mountain pasture and I traversed too low and had to scramble back up steep grass and heather. After that I rested out of the wind and ate some pate and bread for breakfast, whilst watching a flock of Vultures devour something down in the valley. The I joined the other walkers, out for their Sunday exercise to the top of the western-most 2000m peak in the Pyrenees. Most of the climb was a hard slog, but it crossed a narrow ridge half way up which gave some excitement in the wind! I misunderstood the guidebook, and first climbed down the side too early and then set out across the ridge that it recommended to avoid. Realising my mistake, I backtracked and slid down the precarious scree to the traverse path.
The summit was crowded with families who had climbed the 'tourist path' from Port de Larrau seeming oblivious to the near gale-force wind. I staggered on, weaving in the wind.
The route continued along an undulating grassy ridge, which in any other conditions would have been easy going. I considered continuing to Refuge Belagua but it was another 10-13km and I had had enough of the wind. So I dropped down to Ardenne and found an idyllic litle campsite perched below the shepherds' huts.
I was here by 2.00 pm, so I have had the whole afternoon to sit by the stream, explore the beautiful waterfalls and even go skinny dipping in a deep pool. Though I had to make a quick exit when I realised I was keeping a yellow wagtail away from her chicks.
A French family wandered past later, complete with teenage daughter - good job I wasn't swimmimg then!
8.30 pm.
For the first time this trip I cannot get a signal on my mobile phone. Not surprising in this steep sided valley in the middle of nowhere, but it heightens my sense of isolation.
I have caught the sun today. I couldn't find much shade this afternoon and it was too hot in the tent. The horseflies were a pest too, but otherwise it has been a lovely and relaxing time. I read my book after tea, a Wilbur Smith that I picked up at the airport. It has been a good bit of escapism when I have started to feel lonely.
If the weather is kind tomorrow, I will try to make it as far as the ski resort at la Pierre St Martin. Hopefully I will be able to restock with food and fuel there, and buy a new pen [this was written in pencil]! Also, I am in the middle of some very bleak, treeless country here and I note from the map that after Pierre St Martin I climb Pic d'Anie and then descend into the forests of Lescun which should be more sheltered. That is then the Vallee d'Aspe where I will be meeing Mac in six day's time. I'm looking forward to that!
30th June. 2.30 pm
I put my head out of the tent at 10.00 pm last night and got a shock. It was thick fog! I zipped myself in, went to sleep and was glad to find it clear again by this morning, but still quite windy.
After dragging myself out of my sleeping bag with a cup of tea, I struck camp and made my way up out of the valley. The route followed the frontier ridge, but wound in and out of the summits so there wasn't too much climbing to do and I was shelterd from the worst of the wind. As the day progressed the scenery became increasingly dramatic as the limestone summits became more rocky and craggy, and trees reappeared in the valleys below.
At Port d'Ourdayte I waved to a couple of shepherds as I climbed up to the col and was greeted with the view Eastwards of the mountains of Lescun towering over the stark limestone scenery of Anialarra cloaked in pine forest. The view to the North was equally impressive into the head of Gorges de Kakouta, with its steep limestone walls lit by the sun, and Vultures wheeling over its forested sides. Here I sat and finished the last of my food (down to a few biscuits and raisins) and soaked up the view.
On descending to the road that would take me to Pierre St Martin, it was still only 11.30am, so I foresook Refuge Belagua and pressed on. It was along tramp along the road for about 9km, but the scenery of limestone crags, boulders and pine trees was quite spectacular. Eventually I dropped down to the ski resort of Pierre St Martin hopeful of finding accommodation and shops to restock my supplies.
My first wish was satisfied by the Refuge Jeanette where I have booked in for the night. Here I have met Rubens, who Chris and Jim walked with during the first few days of the trek. He is quite a character! He is trying to walk the HRP but is suffering after twisting his knee. This causes him to walk with a pronounced limp, and I am sure it would cause many people to give up, but not Rubens. He just limps on, and somehow manages to keep smiling and chatting to everyone he meets!
On the down side, the resort however is very definately SHUT! There isn't even a shop open! As I walked among the hotels and chalets the only sign of life was a few workmen doing some painting and renovation. It reminded me of 'The Shining' - I expected Jack Nicholson to leap out of a doorway wielding an axe!
This means that I will have to drop down to Lescun tomorrow to restock with supplies.
Sorry, there were no photos of this bit of the walk. The film got lost in the French postal system!