Following are the brief notes I made every night. I also noted the readings for the day from my cycle computer, which recorded: odometer (Odo), ride time (Tm), daily mileage (Dst), average speed mph (Av), maximum speed (Mx) and calories (Ca). These are all tabulated on the Stats page.
Katie waved me off from Land's End 9.45am.
Cornish roads do extreme hills - used bottom gears within 15 miles of the start. By 3.30pm, started walking up worst hills and decided to stop at 5.30. Just beyond Lostwithiel on A390 towards Liskeard, asked attendant in petrol station where nearest campsite was - he pointed me to his field at the back. £2 per night + 20p token for the shower! Universal plug for basin and own supply of loo paper essential. Shared wash block with family of swallows.
Weather overcast much of the day but only spots of rain. Cool but no wind. Sunny end to the day. Sunset 9.15pm. Rice and packet hot-pot for supper - v. good.
Odo begin 593.3 end 657.0
Tm 6.18.08
Dst 63.73
Av 10.1
Mx 34.0
Ca 1499.4
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Camping went fine. Woke at 6.30 but didn't manage to get on the road till 9.15. Tent still wet from overnight condensation when packed, long grass wet, trainers & socks cold and wet! Ended day at Moretonhampstead - couldn't pedal a mile further.
Odo 705.8
Tm 6.22.13
Dst (48.75)
Av 7.6
Mx 40.0
Ca 1155.6
BUT took computer off bike for shopping in Princetown (adjacent Dartmoor Prison) and forgot to put it back till junc B3357/B3312 past Two Bridges - so add 1.0 mile. Total cumulative = 705.8 - 593.3 + 1.0 = 113.5, day Dst = 49.75
Generally route even more hilly than yesterday. Another day of slow grind up the hills & free-wheeling down the other side. Dartmoor beautiful. Wild ponies & daft sheep wandering around the road.
Weather sunny all day - tee shirt from start - with some clouds. Dry. Wind light westerly initially but seemed to go northerly second half of afternoon.
Eventually reached Moretonhampstead 6.30pm and decided to stop. No campsites around so succumbed to B&B at "Cookshayes". Fish & chips in town - yum.
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Left Moretonhampstead 9.00am after full English breakfast. Had to push bike up 2 hills between M'stead and Exeter, so slow start. Slightly lost in Exeter but eventually found Broadclyst road, then conditions became much easier. With light southerly wind behind, reached Clevedon on the Severn estuary about 7.00pm.
Odo 793.8
Tm 8.12.02
Dst 88.00
Av 10.7
Mx 30.9
Ca 1810.8
Took a short cut by staying on A38 out of Bridgwater & rejoining official route onto B3133 to Congresbury. Clevedon apparently has no campsites anywhere near. Not much else either. Whole town looks like conservation area in dour stone buildings. After trying 3 others with no vacancies, eventually found a room at Cavell House B&B - grim place for £30/night. No en-suite, no soap, no light bulb in bedside light. Pink sheets. Apparently they have a party of 4 end-to-end cyclists booked in next month - can't warn them! Only saving grace is that breakfast is served from 7.00am (not 8.30 as previous stop) so should be able to make an early start.
Over Avon and Severn bridges tomorrow into Wales, but forecast has weather deteriorating badly from mid-day. Fish & chips again.
Total cumulative 113.5 + 88.0 = 210.5
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Breakfast was good, prepared by the minion – landlord and landlady nowhere in sight. Got on the road 7.50, windy from the start. Notionally easterly, but seemed to have a lot of northerly component. M5 bridge over Avon good, but got lost on exit, trying to find the A403. Then bridge over Severn estuary – cycle track is on north side, & received full blast of strong winds coming down the valley – part of it too unstable to cycle – got off and walked. Got into Wales about 11.15am, then up the Wye valley to Monmouth. Beautiful steep-sided V-shape river valley, cut through the rock, heavily wooded. Winds had brought down twigs and a few small branches but nothing impassable. Continued on A466 towards Hereford, joining A49 eventually. Winds continuing strong slowed progress. Reached Hereford around 4.45 and asked Tourist Information for campsites. They said nothing within about 20 miles. Left city on A49 towards Leominster (pronounced Lemster). Spotted sign to camping & caravanning at race course, so followed, but this turned out to be a red herring – no facilities at race course. About 3 miles north at village of Moreton on Lugg, found small camp site. Owner said weather going to be bad overnight and offered me use of old caravan for £10 instead of tent pitch for £6 – done deal. Fish and chips from village. Started raining at 8.15pm.
Odo 859.4
Tm 7.18.21
Dst 65.58
Av 8.9
Mx 32.8
Ca 1090.5
Cumulative total 201.5 + 65.6 = 267.1
NB decided to take A49 out of Hereford instead of A4110 to try and reduce some hill work. Striking view of Black Mountains to the west.
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Severe weather overnight – apparently deepest depression for July on record, centred over Spain. Caravan had electrics working OK but not gas and water. Made porridge by boiling electric kettle and pouring water over oats in bowl – second best! Left site 9.00am in rain, heading into the wind – this was not in the plan. Rain and wind continued all day, lessening from mid afternoon. Hard work. No photos – too wet. Low cloud covered tops of nearby hills. Route stayed on A49, bypassing Leominster, into centre of Ludlow (nice little pork pie), Craven Arms, and up to Shrewsbury. Lots of cycle paths in and around centre of town, but signposting inadequate, and got lost. Ended up going out east to the bypass, a long way round. Ended up at Wem about 5.15pm and found ‘Lower Lacon Caravan Park’ from the guidebook. £4 pitch(including shower but 10p charge for hot washing-up water). Big site but not many people around. Put tent up in light rain, and after hot shower, cooked chilli con carne and rice. Charlie is cooking my supper for tomorrow night, tonight. On on to Preston!
Odo 925.6
Tm 6.49.06
Dst 66.27
Av 9.7
Mx 25.3
Ca 1057.2
Cumulative total 267.1 + 66.3 = 333.4
Luggage did well – contents of panniers all dry.
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Odo 1002.7
Tm 7.10.26
Dst 77.08
Av 10.7
Mx 28.0
Ca 1380.6
Cumulative total 333.4 + 77.1 = 410.5
Left campsite 8.50am and virtually spent all day on the A49, through Cheshire, then a lot of urban sprawl from Warrington onwards. Weather overcast and cool but dry with light wind. Progress good and arrived at Preston about 5.45, ahead of schedule, so was able to meet Charlie & Anne briefly before they went out. Robert prepared my spaghetti bolognaise – excellent!
Much of time during the day on urban roads seemed to be stopped at red traffic lights. Wigan had noticeably better cycle lanes than most – say 6/10.
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Left Charlie and Anne’s 8.05am after Weetabix, and bacon sandwich – good early start. Overcast and cool. Today is the day of the A6, up past the Lake District. First heavy shower mid-morning before Lancaster, and generally wet till late afternoon. Wind, although northerly, generally light or dropped to nothing. A6 generally quite lightly trafficked (most heavy stuff on M6) and towns Lancaster, Kendal, Penrith fairly straightforward. As usual, signposting of cycleways poor for through traffic, so missed using elegant cycle/footbridge over River Lune (Lancaster).
Big event of the day was the climb out of Kendal to Shap Fell. Didn’t have to get off and push, but now Achilles tendon in left leg complaining. Bought tin of mince & onions + fruit & milk at Co-op outside Penrith, then kept going to Carlisle. Found Green Acres Caravan Park from guidebook about 4 miles north of town. Arrived around 7.30pm – long day.
Odo 1094.8
Tm 8.34.50
Dst 92.09
Av 10.7
Mx 30.5
Ca 1809.4
Cumulative total 410.5 + 92.1 = 502.6 – over half way!
Good fried egg bap and mug of tea at lay-by just before Kendal.
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Left campsite about 9.10am and had a good run along A74 dual carriageway to Gretna Green – crossed into Scotland around 10.00am. (Decided to risk A74 connecting top of M6 with start of A74(M) as Sunday morning traffic light. A7 definitely a better option during working week though 4 miles further.) Gretna quiet. Noticeable amount of buildings here, and in Carlisle, in red sandstone (?) – attractive. Continued on minor road to Dumfries – gently undulating with only light wind. Then from Dumfries on A76 up Nith Valley – Nithsdale – pretty, partly wooded, partly farmed, gentle climb but into north-west wind :-( Road peaks around Kirkconnel then starts descent towards Kilmarnock. Started looking for somewhere to stop. Cumnock and Auchinleck barren, and eventually found ‘Catrine Caravan Park’ hidden off the main road before Mauchline. Arrived around 7.45. Tendonitis (or whatever) in left ankle settled into dull pain all day – tolerable if leg not overstressed.
Odo 1177.1
Tm 7.50.27
Dst 82.27
Av 10.4
Mx 26.7
Ca 1415.8
Cumulative total 502.6 + 82.3 = 584.9
Did not rain all day so laundry from Friday night now dry enough to wear.
Campsite was totally primitive. Cold water only in the basin – toilet was part of old cow shed. The owner told me to camp in ‘the walled garden’, for “shall we say £2.50 or £3.00”. She took £3.00. Went without a shower that night.
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Slept in till 7.00am so didn’t get away till 9.30 despite skipping the porridge (washing up once there was enough). Good run down to Kilmarnock then along the B-road to Irvine. Joined the A78 and met the coast just after Ardrossan. Fresh cold north-westerly wind – beautiful coastline, though too raw for a beach holiday – nobody swimming! Stopped at Safeway in Largs for general shopping – more rice needed. Road quite flat so made good progress despite the wind. Sun came out around 2.30pm – took fleece off for first time in days (since Somerset?) Got to Gourock ferry terminal 3.30 – next ferry at 4.20 – arrived Dunoon around 5.00pm. A815 around Holy Loch then up along Loch Eck. Getting into big hills now but road fairly level alongside loch. Found campsite ‘Stratheck Country Park’ just past Benmore Younger garden. All caravans – couldn’t see another tent, but good clean well run site with ample hot water. Manager says watch out for midges when the wind drops – no sign of that yet. £5.50 (rather better value for money than last night!)
Odo 1237.0
Tm 5.34.47
Dst 59.93 (plus ferry)
Av 10.7
Mx 26.7
Ca 1047.4
Cumulative total 584.9 + 59.9 = 644.8
Ferry cost £3.00, and the girl selling me the ticket said “your bicycle goes free” in a delicious strong Scottish accent.
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Midges! Wind dropped during the night and air was thick with them. Packing up tent very trying. Left campsite around 9.00am, sun shining, fleece off – air cold. Apart from a couple of short steep bits, generally road was flat / gentle slope all day. Beautiful scenery all the way – up Loch Eck, over to Loch Fyne (stopped and ordered smoked salmon at Loch Fyne Oyster Smokery), Inveraray (shopped for lunch, and insect repellent at Apothcary), up Glen Aray (gentle climb for about 6 miles, then down to Cladich) around Loch Awe then down the Pass of Brander to Tainuilt. Along, over Connel Bridge and 7 miles to Camping & Caravan Club campsite at Barcaldine on Loch Ceran. Site full with lots of tents, but they fitted me in near the toilets. Left my chilli con carne in the panniers, and had haddock and chips from site shop – very welcome. Rain started as I arraived around 6.00pm, intermittent during evening – ideal for midges (no wind).
Odo 1309.4
Tm 6.33.59
Dst 72.37
Av 10.9
Mx 34.0
Ca 1436.6
Cumulative total 644.8 + 72.4 = 717.2
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Rain continued during the morning – had to pack up tent in the wet. Ankle complaining for the first couple of hours riding, which made a bit of a slow start. Couldn’t see much of the scenery during the morning because of low cloud and rain, but had the impression it might look dramatic in good weather, along Loch Linhe, in the Ben Nevis and Glen Coe area. Reached Fort William at lunchtime and got sandwich and pork pie in Tesco Metro. Rain soon eased up and light South-Westerly wind(!) made afternoon more enjoyable. Road generally fairly level all day along the Great Glen – cycling not too strenuous. A82 is a very busy tourist route – lots of camper vans and tourist buses – road too narrow for them to overtake cyclists easily.
Reached Fort Augustus camp site around 5.15pm and as there were no other camp sites in the next 10 miles or so in the guidebook, decided to stop here. Charge £4.75, and classified as ‘cyclist’, not back-packer or hitch-hiker. Progress.
Odo 1372.0
Tm 5.30.06
Dst 62.63
Av 11.3
Mx 30.1
Ca 1226.1
Cumulative total 717.2 + 62.6 = 779.8
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A dry night, and got away from campsite 8.50am – stopped at general store in Fort Augustus for Ibuprofen pills, which have reduced pain in ankle tendons all day. Along shore of Loch Ness in still weather with grey sky. Much less traffic this morning than previous afternoon (do tourists do mornings?). Saw no ripples of Nessie – must be at the other end of the loch. Fort Augustus and Drumnadrochit both showed heavy emphasis on the ‘monster’ industry, but little activity out on the loch. Left the shore of Loch Ness at Drumnadrochit and had to get off and push up fierce climb from Milton. Signed as 15% incline for ¾ mile. Hard work, but then rewarded with much of the rest of the run to Beauly downhill. Bought sandwich and scotch egg there, then continued to Dingwall, along Cromarty Firth to Alness (oil rigs in firth) and then up into the hills.
Unable to stop in Bonar Bridge – no camp sites, so kept going to Lairg. Found at camp site at 6.45pm. Charge £5.50 + 10p’s in meter for a shower. Steak supper in attached restaurant (closes 8.00pm!). Now writing this at 10.30pm by daylight (fading).
Odo 1452.5
Tm 7.30.17
Dst 80.48
Av 10.7
Mx 35.8
Ca 1647.5
Cumulative total 779.8 + 80.5 = 860.3
Changed memory card in camera.
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Not a great start as overnight rain continued, and had to pack up in the wet. Small area in camp site for tents. Had 2 German bikers in tent next to mine, and then Cambridge couple (Paul Oldham?) in renovated Land Rover that did 15 mpg, + 2 Dutch cyclists, a French family, and 2 or 3 other parties. OK place though shower a bit primitive.
Due to rain, slow start, got going 9.30am. Then run along A836 to Altnaharra and B873 / 871 to the coast at Bettyhill a gorgeous run, apart from a few lumps and bumps, following lochside or river valleys downhill. Intended to stop and buy lunch provisions at Altnaharra, but the place only had a church and a primary school – no shop! Had to make do with a small tin of ham and fruit from the panniers. The A836 is an amazing road, single track with passing places. About 1 car every 5 minutes. The B873 / 871 even quieter – car every 15 minutes. In between, the silence was beautiful. Upland heath land and forestry plantations throughout.
Got to Bettyhill 2.30 pm and left by 3.00 having succeeded in buying a tin of stewing steak for supper and a fresh bread roll to supplement earlier lunch. (2 shops in Bettyhill.) Road quite hilly and slow going, diving down at each river, then up again to plateau. Covered the 32 miles to Thurso in 4 hours, arriving 7.00 pm. Very raw empty coastline – cold. Passed Dounreay nuclear power station. Thurso Caravanning and Camping Site is now council-owned and adequate – good views out over coast. £6.35.
Odo 1528.2
Tm 7.04.22
Dst 75.70
Av 10.7
Mx 31.7
Ca 1540.2
Cumulative total 860.3 + 75.7 = 936.0
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Arrived John O’Groats 1.15 pm!!
Odo 1548.6
Tm 1.44.12
Dst 20.45
Av 11.7
Mx 22.8
Ca 387.5
Cumulative total 936.0 + 20.5 = 956.5 miles for whole trip
Had my card stamped at the bar in John O’Groats House Hotel, then went for a large cappuccino in coffee shop and wrote postcards. (Raining heavily outside.)
The road from Thurso A836 was through flat / gently undulating farm land. Would be pleasant in good weather. Came back as far as Castletown via NCN1 (from junction at Castletown A836 / B876, to Canisbay). This appeared to be the same distance as the main road, slightly less hilly and much less traffic. Got caught in torrential downpour on way in to Thurso, and arrived back at campsite drenched.
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END OF DIARY