Here are our journals. We thought about combining/editing them, but in the end decided to leave them just as we had written them (usually knackered and under the influence of medicinal wine!) See also the photos for other comments.
stayed chez Mel and Lindi, Seascale
Felt a bit nervous when Kate and Richard picked me up at 8.30 am. Kate assured me that weather forecast was good - fine, dry, some sun, some "twinkly" rain. Good journey. listened to Beethoven Pastoral in the car. Went to Blawith church where K's mother's and brother's grave is. Lovely spot. Then looked at Brown How where K spent idyllic childhood hols.
Richard drove all the way to St Bees, after picking Susan and Andy up at Finsthwaite.
Started walk at 5pm. Dipped toes in N Sea and picked up pebble. Perfect day - views of Scotland, Isle of Man and mountains. Walked along cliff - beautiful.
Wonderful meal at Melvyn and Lindy's - K's cousin-in Seascale. Good start!
5 miles
Left Over with Catherine, drove to Blawith to see Mum and Roy, lovely. Then picked up Andy and Sue from Finswaite and on to St Bees to dip our toes in the bay, pick up pebble and get going – scary but exciting. Beautiful day, glorious walk around headland. Rich walked up as far as the top to see view then drove car to Sandwith to collect us. Walk along coastal path, Andy nearly disembowelled by a guillemot! Rich picked us up, drove to Mel and Lindi’s. Even though we were rather late getting there, Mel had made us a gorgeous meal, melon, parma ham, and dates (made by Louise), chick casserole, salad then peach and crème brulée. Bed at last 11.30 – long day!
187 miles to go
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Low Cock Howe Farm
Full monty breakfast at Melvyn's. Started walking from Sandwith 10.45.
Lovely, lovely walk to Ennerdale Bridge. Sun shone, but not too hot at all. Lovely views to coast and on to the lakes.
Kate's cousin Pauline joined us - lovely lady.
Tea and biscuits when we arrived at Low Cock How Farm. Spoilt dogs (rottweillers?) - lots of biscuits.
Huge dinner - pork chops, loads of veg. Chatted to owners - Bradleys. Great characters. A Canadian couple shared dinner with us. Rained in the evening, but then cleared up.
8 miles
Enormous cooked breakfast, prepared by Mel! Pauline and Ollie arrived and off we set back to Sandwith. Said goodbye to Rich, and started off with Pauline. Glorious walking weather, warm sun, slight breeze. Nice walk, pretty countryside then long pull up Dent Hill, 1,155 feet high. View from the top fantastic, worth the work. Ate lunch with sheep at the top, gazing back to the coast the way we had come – it seemed fairly distant already, but mustn’t get complacent, still a few miles to go yet!.. Seascale power station looked much better from up there! Walk down also lovely to Nannycatch, but VERY steep. Pauline and I practised using our poles! Arrived at Low Cock How farm, drank welcome tea in kitchen FULL of dogs! Ollie, Emily and Robyn collected Pauline. Wonderful meal, Dorothy and George glorious characters, entertained us until 9.30. Fell into bed.
179 miles to go
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Black Sail YH
Big scrambled egg breakfast. Invitation to Vancouver by Don and his wife.
Lovely walk along S side of Ennerdale,then along river Liza to end of valley. Black Sail all nestled and lonely beneath Gt. Gable. Roger and Meg didn't come because Meg ill.
Susan, Andy and Kate and I in Room 3. Other hostellers- lone American, daughter and reluctant father, young couple and 3 old codgers. Young warden, Harry.
Great meal - lentil soup, risotto and lemon cake and custard!
Sat outside in sunshine (cold, so well wrapped up!) drinking white wine. Bliss! Bed by 9.30
9 miles 500 ft climb
More modest breakfast than Mel’s! Got given address of lovely Canadian couple who'd been around the world and were on way home, offered a bed in Vancouver. Walked to Ennerdale Water and progressed around it – very varied, some climbing, lovely bosky wooded bits (with bitey things!) lunched overlooking lake with stream tumbling beside us. Weather overcast but not cold, but turned to rain during afternoon. Waterproof trousers got 1st airing! Carried on to Black Sail along forestry path/track. First sight of Black Sail incredible, nestling in head of valley surrounded by mountains – the only way out is up!! Fabulous mix of people staying in hostel, straight out of a play, 12 of us altogether. Fabulous evening, weather cleared, sun came out, wine outside on bench looking at the clouds and deep shadows over the mountains. Harry, the warden cooked vast meal. Slept in tiny dormitory with Catherine, Sue and Andy. Lentil soup produced unfortunate farts!
170 miles to go
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Borrowdale YH
Rained in the night. Grey, cool and cloudy in morning.
Good breakfast. Sue and Andy decided to climb Gt Gable. Kate and I went up Haystacks. Really good scramble and lots of views of Buttermere and Crummock. We think we saw an eagle soaring around Fleetwith Pike.
I threw map in puddle on the top and K nearly drowned attempting to put on waterproof trousers in hailstorm.
Walked through quarry to Honister and to welcome tea and cake at Seatoller.
Met by Tom and Carys at YH and lots of rellies. Hurray!
9 miles 1,950 ft climb
After breakfast (bacon sarnies, what else!) Sue and Andy decide to climb Great Gable, Catherine and I climb Haystacks (even though we were already 1,000 ft up at Black Sail, still a climb!) to Borrowdale. Easy climb to start with, view over Buttermere stunning, as mist and cloud cover cleared. Real Lakeland day with clouds swirling low over the mountains and wet in the air. Saw eagle/red kite, very special. Real climb next to the top, very sheer rocks, real scramble. A BIG fear conquered, as difficult with rucksack and VERY high and precipitous. Catherine up it like a mountain goat but keeping a close eye on her quaking friend! Mist cleared again to reveal Crummock Water clearly beyond Buttermere. Rained very hard on climb down, turned to hail, but managed to eat lunch beside a small tarn (bitey things again) before it started. Lost path once, then found it again to Honister Pass. We tottered into café in Sea Toller for cup of tea and cake and then on to Borrowdale Youth Hostel to meet the rellies! Twisted ankle very badly on steps in Y H, thought that was it for me as it swelled up and turned blue. Survived Haystacks and then that – pillock! Apply Mr Muscle (Radiol) horse embrocation, unbelievable for sprains, strains, aching muscles - PROVEN! Kindly donated by Dorothy and George at Low Cock Farm B&B.
161 miles to go
WISDOM OF THE DAY:
Never drop a map in water on top of a mountain in thick cloud!
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Thorney How YH
Bit of a struggle getting organised, but 20 of us eventually set off up Greenup Gill. Loads of waterfalls. Long climb up the valley - 2000 feet to Greenup Edge. Shirley, Paul, Janet, Jess Jon and baby Emily (11 weeks) turned back when it got steep. Incredible views all the way up because bright, sunny, cool, day. Everything very clear. Fantastic vistas. Wow.
Sue, Andy and Roger went along ridge to Helm Crag, the rest of us walked down along Far Easdale valley. Some beautiful spots.
Thorney How YH very good. Simon and Karen arrived. Huge dinner - soup, veg goulash, sticky toffee pud.
9 miles 2,000 ft climb
Beautiful morning, clear, warm and sunny with a brisk breeze – perfect walking weather! Start out, all 20 of us, which took a fair bit of mustering as eldest 84 and youngest 5 months, but got the feeling they'd done it before! Start climbing up Greenup Gill to Greenup Edge, long climb inexorably up and up, very steep at the top but boy was it worth it – such a view – felt we could see all of Cumbria as so clear. We could see the Helvellyn range one way, Great Gable to the other, and with a deep bowl of drumlins just below us – pure magic! Lunch at the top and then long slog over very boggy ground (pole useful!) until the descent which was glorious, down into the valley with waterfalls, tumbling becks and lovely grassy mounds. On down into Grasmere, very hot walking, to the hostel. Shower (needed it!) and enormous supper, finishing with great slabs of sticky toffee pudding and custard – like being back at school!. Catherine’s rellies lovely, very warm.
152 miles to go
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Helvellyn YH
Cool, bright sunny day - perfect for walking.
Jess and Jon and Emily left.
Walked steeply up Little Tongue to Grisedale Hause and Grisedale Tarn.
Sue, Andy, Roger and Tom went up Helvellyn and Swirral Edge. Rest of us walked down Grisedale.
Saw lots of mad cyclists carrying bikes up.
Wonderful views again round every corner. Quite a lot of people around (Saturday).
Big meal again and mad family meeting minuted by Tom on flip chart. Decided N Wales next year.
10 miles 2,000 ft climb
Bit overcast to start with, but after a bowl of porridge and veggie fry-up we were ready for the off. Interesting how body feels hammered when first wake up, thought of swinging legs over side of bed hideous, but once upright not too bad. Am managing yoga most mornings when there is space – def helps. All 20 of us set off up the long slog up Little Tongue Gill overlooking Grasmere, stunning views as we climbed, very steep in places. Grassy to start with and then rocky narrow path. As we were already 500 ft up we were 2,500 ft at the top. Grisedale Hawse and then Grisedale Tarn sitting in a big deep bowl at the top. Climb down the valley was stunning and steep. Met 3 cyclists battling their way up – one pushing and 2 carrying their bikes, skidding on the rocks in their totally unsuitable shoes! 3 miles after the bottom, through classic Cumbrian scenery – arched stone bridges, sheep fells and bracken. Sun very hot. Arrived at Hellvellyn Y H in time for glass of white wine – skipped cup of tea completely! All tired but happy.
142 miles to go
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Sue:
Don't brush your teeth with Savlon.
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Crown and Mitre
Woke up to bright sunshine. Farewells to Gray family and Janet (Carters left last night). Kate, Sue, Andy, Roger and I set off up Boardale Hause to Angle Tarn with stunning views ALL the way.
Went through gate with notice "these cows may be dangerous". We seemed to be able to go up hill quite easily. Andy and Roger map read for us for the last time. Lovely lunch spot at Angle Tarn.
S, A and R left us at High Street and we continued to Kidsty Pike -highest point of the walk - 2560. v steep descent.Then walked all along Haweswater. Big treat- watched a red squirrel scuttle along a wall in front of us. Picked up at Burnbanks by landlord of Crown and Mitre.
12 miles climb 2,500 ft, highest point on C 2 C
Left hostel in glorious sunshine, clear air (apparently clearest day of the year so far – lucky us!). Said goodbye to all rellies except Sue, Andy and Roger who walked with us to High Street. (2,300 ft) Perfect walking weather for long, hard slog up Boardale Hause to Kidsy Pike. Saw pink (!) sheep on route – what is Cumbria coming to?? Had lunch at Angle tarn, 2/3 way up, then parted company with Sue, Andy and Roger. On our own for the first time, big brave girls! Coming down was just as hard as going up, very steep, all the way down to Haweswater (reservoir, flooded village in the 1930’s) Stopped for a snack at perfect place – small waterfall making natural pools, mossy rocks, overhanging tree and dappled water – wow! Took off boots and paddled – bliss doesn’t quite describe it! Along Haweswater for 4 ½ miles, seemed to go on and on, very hot, but we saw a red squirrel – wow again!! On to Bampton to the Crown and Mitre to the heaven of a non-bunk bed! We had glass of wine and soda before shower – human again, just! Dinner and -------collapse!!
130 miles to go
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Karen:
Never ride an elephant whilst wearing shorts.
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Katy:
Olive oil and yoghurt (Greek) for sunburn (not applied at the same time)
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at The Old Barn
Woke up to bright sunshine! Lift back to path at Burnbanks. A bit sluggish today after yesterdays effort.
Lovely walk with Kidsty Pike getting smaller and smaller all the time and the Pennines getting bigger and clearer. Strange moment walking over M6!
Landscape changed immediately to Limestone.
Walked 12 miles. Not too many hills, but we found it hard work.
Kate kissed the road where Richard had biked last year. Ancient Nanna type Shap resident wasn't impressed - "That's not honest".
Interesting and varied day. B and b fine. Had dry salmon for dinner at local pub after wonderful bath.
12 miles
Yet another glorious day, but several degrees warmer. Very dry breakfast (poached eggs like bullets on one square of unbuttered Hovis …..lovely!) Beautiful walk through gentle countryside alongside Thornthwaite Force, over Naddle Bridge and on to Shap Abbey where we had chocolate and an orange, dangling our legs over the river bank. Shap next, to kiss the hallowed ground of the A6 which the mighty Moss had cycled along last year, under the bewildered gaze of an ancient Shap resident – she shouted ‘that’s dishonest that is’ at us – not sure who was the more baffled, her or us! Bought strawbs and salad in the Co-Op (we’re desperate for fresh veg) and plodded on until the M6. Crossed over (quite a landmark) with Kidsty Pike now reduced to a nipple on the horizon – amazed us (yet again) how much ground we seem able to cover in a relatively short time. Pennines much closer. Over Ravensworth Fell, granite turned to limestone and then to heather. Wonderful to see the landscape change – remember Rich saying the same thing about his bike ride last year. Both very tired today but getting there. B and B had bath – sheer heaven! Walk half mile and back to pub for dinner (VERY dry salmon, dry food day!) ….. collapse!
118 miles to go
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Old Croft House
Eventually left Orton after visiting v friendly shop for lunch. Prawn sandwhiches, strawberries, kendal mint cake; and chocolate factory - chocolate brazils and choc. mint thins (eaten immediately).
Lovely walk over moorland and pastureland, only marred by plague of flying ants near Smardale Bridge. Hardly met a soul (like yesterday).
Arrived at Old Croft House, KS. Very tired. I'm having a bit of trouble with right ankle, but we're both doing well. WONDERFUL b and b. Amazing house, fantastic meal with candles and music - melon, salmon, sticky toffee pud. BIG trouble with foot spa.
13 miles
After the best fry-up breakfast yet (Pauline, lovely landlady, water colour artist) left Orton (after visiting chocolate factory – a must!) finally, at 10.45! good walking weather to start with but very humid by 2.00. Lovely soft countryside, walked over fields, pastures and eventually to Tarn Moor, classic purple heather and limestone outcrops. Strawberries and Kendal Mintcake to keep us going and then on. The full panorama of the Pennines opened before us. Lunch with backs against dry stonewall, sheep looking on. Cross Crosby Garrett Fell (archaeologists paradise with prehistoric field systems and Giant’s Graves – huge grassy mounds), only to be attacked by swarms of flying ants – hideous little swines who took a liking to Catherine’s pink t shirt and hat. On and on and on, over Smardale Rell to Kirby Stephen. Booked into B & B heaven, house stuffed with character, books, foot spa, divine food eaten by candlelight, and glorious landlady. Catherine’s foot spa seriously out of control due to excessive bubble bath – laughed so much think will be sore for days!
105 miles to go
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Catherine:
Never put too much bubble bath in a foot spa - impressive volume of bubbles.
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Butt House
A good day. Bought strawberries and boot laces in KS, and set off up 9 standards Rigg. Cloudy on tops. Long walk up into mist. Sort of bright behind the clouds swishing around-very atmospheric. Sheltered near cairns and ate strawberries. Took photos. Pennine watershed. Half way through walk. Amazing.
Cloud lifted while we were there and we could see right over to Coniston and Helvellyn and Howgills. Fantastic.
Long walk down valley towards Keld.
v bare, wild landscape.
Got to Doreen and Earnest at Butt House at 5.30. Tea and cakes.
LONG bath and superb meal with good company. Bed at 10.45 after speaking to Paul.
12 miles
Fabulous breakfast, porridge, fresh fruit, poached eggs etc, had tour of house – a must for return visit – ask for front room. Buy bootlaces and strawbs and set off up the ascent of Hartley Fell to 9 Standards Rigg, climb 1,950 feet over 2 miles. Cloud descended as we climbed and by the time we were at the top it was VERY atmospheric and eerie. The 9 Standards appeared out of the mist and the way down was unclear – a moment to sit behind a wall, eat strawbs and wait! At last it cleared and the view was breathtaking, we could see Coniston Old Man and Helvellyn! Feeling very pleased with ourselves we made our way down, down, down through peat bogs (pole very handy!) and crossed over into pretty Swaledale and on to Butt House in Keld. Tea, warm scones and choc cake awaited us, then a bath and dinner with 8 other walkers, all lovely people. Bed – aah!
93 miles to go – half way!
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Kate:
Never attempt the climb to Nine Standards Rigg with a full bladder.
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at 2 Bridge Terrrace
Bright morning with sunshine.
Breakfast at 8 - delicious scrambled egg on toast served by Earnest, cooked by Doreen. Kate and I wide awake at 5.30 - raring to go!
Lovely walk along length of Swaledale. Big treat just downstream from Keld. 3 men and dogs moving sheep down a steep craggy side of dale. Watched whole display as if it had been put on specially for us. Brilliant!
Whole walk lovely. Lunch by gently rippling river with loads of dippers(?). Sun came out and I went to sleep. Quick lunch turned into an hour. Very weary by the time we reached Reeth and welcome tea and cakes at Jenny's. Dinner (trout) at King's Arms. VG.
12 miles
Gorgeous fruit salad, muesli and bright yellow boiled eggs for breakfast and then off into the sunshine to climb up a little, then down into beautiful, beautiful Swaledale. Lovely waterfalls and steepsided valley on either side of us with the typical Swaledale stone barns dotted everywhere. We watched a fantastic display of teamwork and immaculately trained sheepdogs, as 3 shepherds brought their flock of sheep (at least 100) down an almost perpendicular hillside – such control, we felt very priveledged to watch and yet an everyday job for them. On along gorgeous Swaledale – I loved it, epitomé of soft English countryside, meadows, sheep, cows and pretty stone cottages lined our walk along the River Swale. Fabulous walk, almost idyllic. Reeth seemed to take a while to get to – both tired! Rain started just as we got to our B & B. Lovely landlady and lovely room. Supper in King’s Arms (trout). Collapse --- again!
81 miles to go 111 miles done!
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed chez Liz's Cottage, Crakehall
Best breakfast of the lot. Loads of fresh fruit, greek yoghurt, home made muesli and cooked br. new laid eggs. Delicious!
Lovely walk to Richmond. An hour's heavy rain, but then it cleared up. Met peacock in a lane.
Had cup of tea and Yorkshire curd tart in café. Big mistake, as I discovered at 4 am next morning.
Walked 3 more miles to Colburn and met by Jan and Janet and brought back to Crakehall. Richard arrived a bit later. Had lovely meal and wine, of course. Good to be back in Liz's cottage again.
14 miles
Lovely breakfast – everything we’d heard about the place true, lovely landlady too who is sadly stopping B and B’ing. Walked out into drizzle, on to Merrick Priory (12 century) and climbed the ancient (slimy!) cobbled causy (steep, must have kept the nuns very fit!) to Merrick. Ate some strawbs ( we’ve decided these are definitely THE thing to have whilst walking C to C!!) at the top to celebrate getting there and then across fields (one with extremely large bull!) and meadows to Marske. Had lunch on bench in sunshine, then the rain started in earnest and didn’t stop as we climbed up steep hillsides and down again! First proper rain of the whole walk so far – waterproof gear fully functional! Rain cleared at last as we walked down into Richmond (passing a strolling peacock on route!) with it’s lovely castle. Very strange to be in a metropolis after the wildness of most of our walk – crossing the roads scared the life out of us, we crossed hanging onto each other like a pair of old biddies!) Tea and pie in tea shop then on. Had a bit of trouble finding the right way out of Richmond but got help from two lovely women. Clambered through trees and fairly dense undergrowth trying to find the path and found that we had wandered into a military zone – alarming!! Met Jan, Janet and Noodle (lovely!) miraculously at right time in right place! Arrived at Liz’s gorgeous cottage and then Rich arrived – so very good to see him. Lovely supper prepared by Janet – we are being spoilt! Bed under the eaves.
67 miles to go 125 miles done!
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed chez Liz's Cottage, Crakehall
(I didn't do this)
Curd tart attacked me. Felt very, very ill with sick and runs most of the night. Felt dreadful and completely unable to do anything. Kate, Jan, Janet and Richard set off to do it just after end of torrential rain. Sun came out ( of course).
I languished in bed. Liz appeared about 4. Had good long chat. She was very kind, as usual.
Lizzie, Kate's sister in law, arrived at 6. Jane and Tony Edwards appeared too. They had champagne and a curry to celebrate Kate's birthday (tomorrow). Great fun and hilarity which I enjoyed listening to while lying in lavender bath.
9 miles
My poor, poor walking buddy struck down with horrid food poisoning – must have been the tart in Richmond as was only thing we ate yesterday that was different to each other. Rich, Jan, Janet, Noodle and I decide to do the day’s walk, Catherine can tack it on at the end. I feel SO sad for her. Heavy rain had cleared by the time we eventually (!) set off at 12.30. Pretty walk along the Swale, meadowland with banks and banks of wild flowers – gorgeous. Lunch on rocks alongside the river - Catherine should be here. On across fields, through Bolton on Swale with it’s beautiful churchyard and church. Walked last 3 ½ miles along small road – very unusual to be on a road so much. Lizzie, Jane and Tony arrived, Jan and Janet did wonderful birthday cake for me. Jane and Tony brought champagne and chocolates and we had Indian takeaway supper – all perfect. Catherine a lot better but fragile.
58 miles to go 134 miles done!
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Catherine:
It was tart that did it! (How many men have said that over the centuries? - only in this case it applied to a Yorkshire curd tart)
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Kate:
Never pee in a field of barley stalks without flattening the stalks first.
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed chez Liz's Cottage, Crakehall
Looked as if it was going to rain, but it didn't.
Felt much better, but a little fragile to say the least. Everyone very concerned. Eventually worked out (or Lizzie did)how to get 8 people and their cars to correct place at start or lunch spot of walk. Pleasant 9 miles, mostly over fields and farms. Tony and Richard made amusing double act with guide book and map. We got there eventually with lots of discussions. Picnic by roadside and then everyone went back to Over apart from us and Lizzie - a splendid walking companion. Shirley and Paul appeared in lane tooting car horn madly, to carry rucsacs. Arrived at non-existent Little Chef to find slightly anxious Paul, Carys and Charlie. Great to see them.
9 miles - My birthday!
Wonderful start to the day – Catherine feeling much better and playing happy birthday to me on the piano! Lovely, lovely cards and pressies, Rich cooked us scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. Jane and Tony arrived from their B and B and we set off – Lizzie, Jane, Tony, Janet, Jan, Catherine, Rich, Noodle and I. Weather good and progress hilariously erratic – quite a shambles from time to time in fact – too many leaders??!! Eventually managed 4 miles to the waiting Mondeo (which had our picnic in it – such planning and forethought!!) and we had our picnic at side of the lane. Everyone left to drive back home except Lizzie who walked on with us. The Cleveland hills getting nearer all the time, walking easy as flat, most of it through fields with a little on roads. Met Paul and Carys and Charlie on the terrifyingly busy A 19. Said goodbye to Lizzie and went back to cottage. Bath under the eaves with glass of wine and the sound of Carys playing the piano drifting up and the evening sun streaming through the window – perfection! Paul made us lovely supper then very early bed.
49 miles to go 143 miles done!
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Catherine:
Never pass wind whilst wearing cream shorts after a bout of runny tummy.
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed chez Liz's Cottage, Crakehall
Just about restored to full vigour and the sun shone. This was a lovely day and we both felt full of energy. Sadly left Charlie behind because very warm. Started day with steady climb through lovely woods full of young pheasants. Up quite steeply till suddenly came to a wall over which was first view of escarpment of moors - a mass of purple heather and bright green bracken (they'd had 2 weeks rain till that day). Really beautiful . Lots of ups and downs across valleys, moors and woods. Stopped for lunch at a spot exactly like Castle Rock in Alderley. Very spooky. More moorland ups and downs and final steep down to Carlton Bank where Paul and Carys were waiting at Lordstone's Café with a cup of tea. Went to Shirley and Paul's for excellent dinner.
8 ½ miles
Beautiful morning, can’t believe this weather. Paul took us to Ingelby Arnecliffe and we tottered off arm in arm like two old biddies across the hideous A19 (been away from civilisation too long obviously!) survived it and walked to Ingelby Cross, and started the climb up through the forest path of the Cleveland Forest. Dozens of young pheasant everywhere, like rabbits. They are bred with partridge for shooting. Lovely climb on up, along a bosky path full of tree roots and dappled sun. Our first view of the North York Moors at Beacon Hill was awesome, the colour of the heather was breathtakingly beautiful (apparently only looks like this for 2 weeks of the year, how lucky are we??) and smelt of honey in the sun. Walked on with 2 climbs, eventually reaching Carlton Moor at 1,400 ft. Paul picked us up for supper at Paul and Shirley’s (Catherine’s lovely uncle and aunt) Bed!
41 miles to go 151 miles done!
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at The Lion Inn
Had to pack up because this was last night at Crakehall. Lovely to stay in one bed for 3 nights. Kate's sister in law, Marian, Hugh and 2 grandchildren Arty and Flo joined us for first part of walk - all the way from Shropshire. They got the first interesting part of the walk - up and down different moors and finally Wainstones which the children loved. I remember exactly the feeling.
They left us at Claybank Top where Hugh was waiting in the car.
We continued up to the highest point - Urra Moor - and eventually to old railway at Bloworth Crossing. A long 5 mile trudge on clinker around Farndale and EVENTUALLY to Lion Inn at 6pm. Tired and very sticky day. Bath helped a lot. Met Liz and Mick for vg meal. Bed at 10 in our minute room.
12 miles
Had to be alert and on the go early as Marian, Hugh, Artie and Flo arrived at 8.30 to walk with us.. Hugh drove us to Carlton Bank and off we set up and up to the Wainstones. The kids loved these, huge rocks which they could clamber over – Artie like a mountain goat (Marian says just like Roy) Long climb back down to Claybank Top where Hugh was patiently waiting and then they set off home. It was so great that they came all the way from Shrophsire just to walk with us a while. Catherine and I climbed up another 350 ft which made the total climb for the day 1,500. On and on and on over heather moorland, nothing to break the skyline for 3 -4 miles, only a few sheep. Joined the old railway track for 5 interminable miles, both of us tired today, combination of rushing in morning (used to a far more leisurely start!) and VERY humid, lots and lots of nasty flying ants. Arrive at Lion Inn at last. Catherine’s lovely cousin Liz and her partner Mick joined us for dinner. Our bedroom is a tiny hot little cubicle – don’t care, it has beds!
29 miles to go 163 miles done!
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at 'Eskdale'
Went to loo at 6.30. Sun shining straight into lovely bathroom and moors in haze of silvers and greys. Almost inspired to get out there.
After very good veggy breakfast, feeling relaxed, finally set off at 10.15. Air clear, sun shining, everywhere purple and beautiful.
1st part of walk up at 1000 feet on lovely moorland tracks around head of Fryup Dale. Really pretty. So many shades of green - bilberry, bracken and reeds, lush fields and trees. Had an hour for lunch lying in heather with t shirt over head. Kate felt a bit sick. Met a man who only started the walk at St Bees on Saturday!
Lovely walk along Glaisdale Rigg, gradually dropping down. Met Paul and Carys at station. Carys and Charlie walked 4 miles Glaisdale to Grosmont. Charlie very happy - river Esk and woods very good in great heat. Final pull up big hill to b and b "Eskdale". Lovely house perched on side of valley with wonderful views from bedroom.
Showers all round then down the hill for a meal at Railway Tavern - a funny place with surly girls serving who smiled eventually. Big hill back to b and b. Tried to get Charlie to pull 3 of us up, encouraged from the front by Carys. The lead broke. It had seemed a good idea at the time.
13 miles
Left Blakey in bright sunshine with a breeze – perfect. Off across the moors and then down into Eskdale Valley, glorious walk through the heather with the valley opening up around us. Fryup Valley just before Eskdale, with ancient earthworks to our left, looking like drumlins. Lunch in the heather, both of us make a bed and lie down for ½ hour as making such good time. Sheer heaven as only sound bees, insects and odd bird and lovely springy feel underneath us. On down and down, getting hotter as we go.. Arrive at Glaisdale station (steam train) to meet Paul, Carys and Charlie. Carys and Charlie walk with us through dappled woodland (blissfully cool) and on into Grosmont. B & B up steep hill. Shower worth everything! Back down hill for pub supper. Charlie attempts to pull us all back up hill to B & B until lead broke!
16 miles to go 176 miles done!
WISDOM OF THE DAY courtesy of Charlie the labrador:
A dog can only pull a certain amount of human weight up a steep hill before the lead snaps.
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
stayed at Intake Farm
Woke up to hazy sunshine promising HOT.
Seem to struggle more and more to get out in the mornings. Manifestation of tiredness, I think, although I don't really feel tired. Feet a bit sore. Put plenty of compeed on.
Carys and Charlie joined us for first 4 miles (up the big hill), while Paul sought out bowery benches on which to read his Tom Sharpe - Blot on the Landscape. Met up at Littlebeck about midday and Kate and I carried on alone. Lovely walk through woods to waterfall. Wonderful in the shade, because it was getting very hot. Then out onto the road and steep hill up to moorland in gross heat. Not pleasant at all. Then, across moorland - no shade, just as hot, but at least not road.
Struggled on quite quickly, just to get it over with. Met nice National Park warden and chatted while we had a rest. Then down into Hawsker, where Paul was waiting on yet another bench. 12 strenuous miles.
Drove back to Littlebeck and Intake Farm, high up, overlooking wooded valley. Family of beautiful kittens greeted us at the door-they wanted to play! Carys very happy to oblige.
Lovely farmhouse and very warm welcome. Another guest was po-faced miserable woman with her husband, who didn't approve of our joviality.
Richard arrived from Over in time for the opening of the Bryan bar on the front lawn. Lovely spot, shame about the midges.
Excellent huge dinner -prawn cocktail, lasagne/meat pies and veg, rhubarb crumble and choc, pear upside down pud and cream. Aagh! More red wine and bed. Carys in Richard's tent on lawn. Rained heavily all night.
12 miles
Glorious morning but hot early ( 28 deg. later) Long and very steep hill east out of Grosmont up onto the moors. Charlie fell through cattle grid – horrible to watch but luckily he was OK. 4 miles across the moor to pretty Littlebeck. Carys, Paul and Charlie went on to Robin Hoods Bay, Catherine and I went on into Little Beck Wood. Beautiful dappled sunlight with River Foss alongside. Steep climb up to the Hermitage, a cave hollowed out of solid rock (date 1790) and then on to Falling Foss, 67 ft of waterfall, very pretty. Lunch by river and then out of woods into intense heat, long climb up to Sneaton Moor, highest point today. Trudge through very bogy ground, heather and bracken. Hard work. Paul had found another bench to wait for us on in Hawkser where we found an ice cream factory – heaven or what?? Yum. On to Intake Farm B & B, Rich arrived to join us drinking wine on the lawn, driven in eventually as eaten alive by midges. Vast supper, beautifully cooked. Aah bed!
4 miles to go 188 miles done!
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
Catherine stayed at Liz's Cottage, Crakehall
Drove back to Hawsker after hearty breakfast and usual struggle to get packed. Kate, Richard and I walked last 4 miles along coast to RHB.
Morning started rainy and very misty, but it was dry by the time we started walking.
Arrived at the Bay Hotel at 12.30ish, having dipped our boots in the North Sea and washed our St Bees pebbles. Lots of photos and felicitations.
Had a drink and signed the Coast to Coast book from the Wainwright Bar. Walked up the hill to the car park and drove back to the Moss's car in Hawsker - they had to dash off because it was Sally's 18th birthday. My job wasn't done, however. Drove back to Streetlam and completed the 4 miles of road to Bolton on Swale. Carys and Charlie came too, which helped a lot.
Back to Crakehall and a pub lunch, glass of wine and lovely bed. Haven't we done well.
(Did this 4 miles E to W. The purists would be outraged).
4 miles
Vast breakfast. Rich walked last 4 miles with us.
We made it…………………………………. Wow, what a feeling
| Today's photos | Tomorrow's photos | Home |
Left Crakehall at 10.00 and met Shirley and Paul and Liz at Colburn and we, plus Carys and Charlie, walked the final 5 miles in sunshine, through pleasant meadows and alongside River Swale part of the way. All very nice.
Donated my bookmark (These are a few of my favourite things, Girls in white dresses with blue satin...) to Liz.
So I've finished my epic walk in the middle of the Vale of Mowbray! Ah well, that's OK.
Drove home feeling a bit dazed, but quite pleased with myself. Good journey, and good to be home. Settled down to watch Beethoven 9 from the Proms - Dad's most favourite piece of music. Say no more!
| Today's photo | Home |
END OF DIARY