Page Title

RatTans guide to cross stitch

Counted cross stitch as it is sometimes called refers to an embroidery style where you generally work from a chart or pattern the design of which is laid out on a grid, each square of the grid represents one stitch. In the case of a chart from RatTans Designs black and white symbols are shown on the grid

in each square where a stitch should be placed on the fabric. You will have a key where all the individual colours of thread you will need are listed and alongside each one will be the corresponding symbol. Blank squares are not stitched.

So you have found a design you love and you really want to get stitching but you don't know where to start... Carry on reading and hopefully you'll soon realise embroidery isn't as difficult as you may have thought.

Fabric

Choice of fabric can be a matter of preference, as you stitch more projects you will get to know what you like to work with.

I generally recommend a fabric called Aida which is probably the easiest to use if you are a beginner. Aida is a block weave fabric, which means the weave looks like lots of little squares with small holes at the corners, each cross stitch is worked over one square.

You may have noticed the measurements I quote for my designs use a 14 count fabric, the count is

the amount of squares (stitches) to the inch; a higher count fabric will result in the design being

smaller and vice versa. eg, on 14 count you will have 14 stitches to the inch. When you become more

confident you might like to slightly alter the finished size of a design by stitching it on a different

count fabric. Just remember the lower the number of the fabric 'count' (ct) the bigger the stitches so

less of them to the inch and you'll end up with a larger finished design.

Some people prefer to use evenweave fabric and because in cross stitch the background is left

unstitched for some projects it does give a better looking finish. This fabric has no obvious squares

to use as a guide and so I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a bit of stitching experience under

your belt. Generally this fabric has high counts like 28, but you usually make your stitch over 2 threads

(horizontally and vertically) so it can be used as a 14 count fabric.

When buying the fabric you will notice there is quite a lot of colour choice, try to go for a colour that will compliment the colours of the design. If in doubt use cream or a natural oatmeal shade.

Depending on how you wish to display your design you will need a piece of fabric a minimum of 2" larger all round, than the finished design size given eg. If design is 3" x 5" you would need a min of 7" x 9" of fabric. If you already have a frame in mind then you would need at least 2" larger than the aperture (we'll get to framing later)

Thread

I design my charts to be stitched with DMC embroidery 6 stranded threads. You can sometimes get

equivalent colours in other makes but they are rarely an exact match and your finished work may not

end up to be true to the design. Also as a word of warning cheap embroidery threads are rarely a

bargain they may not be colour fast in the wash or over time. DMC is colour fast so will not spoil all

your hard work in the wash, no matter how you intend to display your work you will have to wash it.

The different colours are all referenced by a shade number, the ones you will need are listed in the

key alongside the symbol that represents it on the chart. The thread comes in skeins of 8m and is

made up of 6 strands. If you are using a 14ct fabric I recommend using 2 strands of thread for the

crosses and generally 1 for the back stitch.

Needle

A size 26 embroidery needle is usually used for cross stitch. A pair of sharp pointed embroidery

scissors are also recommended.

Always start from the centre. If it helps, on the fabric you can run a horizontal and vertical line of tacking stitches across it and where they meet is where you start stitching. On the chart there should be small arrows at the very edge indicating the centre of the horizontal and vertical follow these across the chart and mark the nearest square to where they cross with pencil.

Having your fabric in an embroidery hoop or on a frame does help to keep the tension even and avoid puckering, but this too is a matter of preference and some people can't get on with them. If you can keep your stitch tension even without then that's fine, but it is very important that all your stitching should be of even tension because a puckered row of stitches will stick out like a sore thumb when you've finished.

Now you have found the centre of the chart find the nearest square with a symbol in (occasionally there may be no stitch in the very centre) Find this symbol on the key and that is the colour you will start with. Cut approx an 18" length from the skein. To separate 2 threads, hold near to the end of the length firmly with one hand and pull out 2 separate threads from the length with the other.

Stitches

So lets get stitching. When you start your first stitch do not knot the thread but leave an end long enough to darn in later holding it in place as you stitch the first couple of stitches or position in such a way that it is caught in behind the first few stitches. When re-threading catch in the end of the new thread in behind the stitches already worked, always working out from the centre.

A cross stitch is exactly that, two equal stitches running in opposite directions that cross each other.

Work crosses as shown (i), Up through 1 from the back, into 2, up through 3, and back into 4.

I told you it was easy.

Don't pull the thread too tight, just enough for it to lay flat on the surface of the fabric.

Finish each stitch before starting another, don't be tempted especially in a large block of one colour to

do all the bottom halves (1-2) and come back the other way to do the top (3-4)or you can end up with a

ridge particularly if you are not using a hoop or frame, which will really spoil the finished look of your work.

It is very important that all the top stitches lie in the same direction to a give neat and even appearance to your

finished work.

Also do not run a thread across the back of the work to reach another area of the same colour if that area has not been stitched. Especially important if it is to be left blank, as it will show through when project is framed

and does look untidy.

Part stitches - Some designs do include 3/4 stitches (ii), these are used to add more detail and a

smoother edge than a whole cross stitch.

The first stitch and are stitched through the centre of the 'square'.

When you get to the end of a thread finish off by darning in the end of the thread behind the finished stitches.

Complete all the cross-stitches before you start the backstitch.

The backstitch is worked as shown (iii) and really finishes off the design bringing it to life.

Finally……..

Once you have completed the stitching it is important to wash it, as the natural oils from your hands can eventually cause brown staining of the fabric with time.

Using a mild wash powder or liquid diluted in warm water, gently agitate fabric in water (do not squeeze or wring) once rinsed, place flat in a clean towel and roll fabric inside to absorb the excess water and dry flat.

Whilst still slightly damp place 'face' down on another clean towel and rub gently with a hot iron gently pulling back into shape as you go, try to handle embroidery as little as possible once washed.