Simple shirt, made in two versions: either made from 100% cotton calico, or 100% linen. They are un-yoked with a gathered neck, long sleeves that are "plain-set" into the shoulder, ie not gathered: they have an underam gusset for ease of movement, and the sleeves terminate in a simple cuff with tie tapes. They are collarless, and have a simple tie-tape closure to the neck opening.

The C17th had two answers to the problem of allowing some extra "ease" under the arms: underarm gussets, or inset sleeves. Both are equally authentic. This style of shirt features the underarm gusset.

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