So your tailgate refuses to stay shut..first of all trace what the cause is… rusty frame? Broken spring behind the key barrel can cause the barrel to drop down..this allows the lock to open the latches just at the same time your slamming the lid resulting in a bounce. You can check this by gently shutting the lid and pressing each corner ...if it latches then chances are the spring has sprung. You can get around this by locking the barrel by holding it in the up position prior to closing the tailgate.
If it's the latch at either end then here is the the repair procedure. The second picture down shows my broken latch..se how it hangs loose and can't be close with your fingers.  Well it can but doesn't latch (try both sides to see). If you undo the activating rods completely and it still won't latch then you know it's well and truly broken. So go buy a new latch.. Get the right one as they are "sided" and get the bolts too… you'll see why in a minute.
Beg borrow or buy an Impact driver as pictured. This is a screw driver for those big screws..you belt it with a hammer and as the hammer hits it automatically turns at the same time (read the instructions to make sure it's turning the correct way..I.e. undoing your screws.
If you haven't already remove the metal ducting that covers the rods which operate your latch and undo the lock nut.
Now deploy the Impact driver… be prepared for lots of rust dropping from the tailgate.. Our seemed really good but still showered bits.
More importantly wear safety glasses and good safety gloves. You could hit your fingers with the hammer..worse (or is it?) you could shatter the rear window if VERY unlucky.
Some screws may come undone easily but be warned if you round the screws off with a normal driver your going to have big trouble.. The impact driver is £15 and well worth it… will no doubt come in handy In the future too.
Once you have removed your screws if you haven't already do the two bits of the latch rod.
Now check your new screws...ours were supposedly genuine.. They are 1/4 inch 28 teeth per inch for reference….I'd guess 3/4 inch long. I had to shorten mine making use of a die to ensure the thread was sound prior to refitting…. I placed the screw in the die..clamped it and removed the excess with the saw...finished off with a touch on the grinding wheel then re-made the thread.

Once the latch is off you can treat any rust behind here while you have the chance.

I also placed some copper slip (lubricant stuff used mainly on brakes) into the threads to try and prevent any future problems next time I replace the latch (it is a Range Rover..at 12 years it's only a baby!).

Finally you can reassemble the lot...I'd suggest rejoining the rods prior to screwing up the latch tight as it's very difficult to do otherwise… screw up the latch.

Now adjust the rod until the latch can be operated by finger and released by the lock button.

The next bit is mega important, especially if you have a dog guard fitted!!! lower the bottom tailgate.

Why ...because your going to test your new latch and if it stays stuck then your stuck out unless you lower seats and climb in.

Once your happy with the latch operation try it finally with the lower tailgate closed.


Roberts your sisters husband!!!!! (Bobs your uncle)

This may also be useful if your replacing the tailgate as many replacements don't come with the locks latches or rods fitted.