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Please bear in mind that these pages have been put together to give you a feel for the Canal Doctor philosophy. They represent a very personal view (but I think there are some good ideas here!). All work should be done in accordance with the Boat Safety Scheme a copy of which can be downloaded or sent for by post. It is essential to read this before beginning any work.
The modern boat is a maze of systems; in the working boat a water can, a range, an oil lamp and a bucket were all that were necessary, but today we ask for a good deal more. There are the same requirements, though:
Water can - water system
Range - heating and cooking
Oil lamp - lighting
Bucket - sanitation
For these we need electricity, water, gas and, maybe, diesel.
Water
If we take a pipe from the water tank to a pressure sensitive pump and then on to a tap, connect the pump to the battery system and turn on the tap we shall get running water. That's all there is to it. Use plastic pipe with push-on fittings and make sure the electricity for the pump is run through a suitable circuit-breaker or fuse. The regulations (Boat Safety Scheme) tell you to run wires as high and short as possible.
For hot water the best system uses a calorifier, which is like a domestic hot water tank. It heats water by using either the central heating system, the engine cooling water or both. Both is best, so get a calorifier with two coils and connect one to the heating and one to the engine.
Heating
The central heating is just the same as the one most people have at home. A boiler or furnace heats the water which is pumped around radiators and the hot water tank. Gas-fired or diesel-fired are the most common and both should be fitted by an expert. Once you've got the boiler there is no reason why you should not do the rest of the work yourself. An alternative is blown hot air. A furnace heats air and a fan blows it through ducts to strategic points in the boat. Once again, the furnace should be fitted by an expert, but you can do the ducts yourself. The way they run needs very careful planning.
Cooking
Most boats cook by gas. Buy the best cooker you can and get a CORGI registered fitter to do the rest.
Lights and other electrics
If the boatbuilder has fitted your engine you will have batteries which feed a consumer unit (if this is not part of the package, get it added). From this unit you can take wires to the various circuits: lights, fridge, jacuzzi etc. Make sure you know the amount of current each circuit will draw and fit a suitable trip switch in the consumer unit. It is good practice to use different coloured wires for the separate circuits. If you do not do this, make sure they are tagged so that you know which wire is which at both ends.
If you intend to fit 230 volt circuits as well as 12 volt, either use the skills you use at home, if you have them or get a qualified electrician to do it. A 230 volt alternator is an expensive addition to your engine installation but very useful, especially if you plan to use power tools whilst cruising. Get an expert to fit this. There is a lot of pleasure to be got from working on your boat as you cruise, but only if it all works.
With wiring, if in doubt, get help; in any case, consult the Boat Safety Scheme at every turn.
Once the basic wiring is in place you need to fit sockets, lights etc. Careful planning is needed to site these correctly.
Sanitation
You will need at least one loo. Pump-out toilets are handy until they need emptying. Then you must find a boatyard to do the job and pay the bill. Chemical toilets need emptying more frequently, but you can use one of the many sanitary stations on the canals and rivers. This is a very personal decision, but don't forget that this equipment is amongst the most important on the boat, so have something you are happy with.