Byland Abbey

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Date: 18th November 2004.

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Starting Point: Grid Reference SE 554793. Wass.

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Route: Wass - Oldstead - Oldstead Grange - Cams Head - Byland Abbey - Wass.

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Distance: 4 ½ miles

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Weather: Overcast with a few spots of rain later, turning heavy by the afternoon. Very muddy in places.

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Accompanied By: Annette.

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Route Map & 3D View

 

Scroll down to view the photographs after the report or click here

Today's walk was the second in the space of a week. Nothing special under normal circumstances but for me, after 7 months of forced absence, very special indeed. No real 'after effects' from my last walk apart from an aching hip and a bit of discomfort in my leg but nothing too worrying. Again, as per my last walk, I decided to visit the North York Moors for another short outing to continue the process of building up my fitness.

This walk began in Wass, a small village set beneath the wooded slopes of the Hambleton Hills, situated at the most south westerly point of the North York Moors, approximately 40 miles from Middlesbrough and around an hour's journey - depending on traffic. A village definitely off the beaten track and central to the village is the only pub, The Wombwell Arms, where we would be having lunch once the walk had been completed. A good incentive if ever one was needed! The two main points of interest on this walk would be Mount Snever Observatory,  and the 12th century Byland Abbey.

There's very limited parking in the village but we managed to find a spot alongside the pub which was ideal for the start of the walk, and for our lunch at the end. From here a road opposite the pub joined a rough lane which then rose steadily into a wood, passing an overgrown and derelict pond on our right, to a fork in the track and, ignoring both tracks, lead through a small wooden gate into a field. A sign at the gate confirmed that the faint path ahead, did indeed lead to 'Cam Farm & Observatory'.

The faint path followed below a gorse covered bank up to our right before slanting up across the field to a stile leading into Abbey Bank Wood. On the other side of the stile we were met by a hairpin bend on a forest track. The left branch of the track would follow a public right of way but we would be taking the right hand branch along Forestry Commission paths where walkers are welcomed as long as you are prepared to give way to forestry operations as and when required. Looking at the map confirmed that both routes would converge again about a mile further on at a junction near to the top of the wood.

The Forestry Commission route made its way up through the wood via a long but steady climb, close to the edge of the wood. Along the way we passed what looked like wooden feeding points full of grain or seed which must have been meant for the many grouse we came upon in this area. Indeed, it was quite spooky at times hearing all the rustling in the shrubs alongside the path as the grouse, out of sight, ran for cover amongst the shrubbery. It was as if we were being followed as we walked along the path. Then, occasionally, we would have the shock of our lives as a grouse would suddenly shoot up out of the shrubbery flapping its wings with all its might followed by a few expletives from yours truly!

Reaching the junction at a clearing close to the top of the wood, we joined up with the public right of way path we had chosen not to follow earlier. The right of way path now left the wood over a stile and continued on towards Cam Farm but we continued along the Forestry Commission path for a further 150 yards or so, passing a field which contained  evidence that a mole or two had made their homes here, where we took a left fork into Snever Wood, heading for the observatory. The route through the wood followed well worn paths, quite muddy in places, and passing beneath fallen trees, to eventually reach the now disused Mount Snever Observatory, which suddenly appears only at the last moment and is quite a surprise.

The building consists mainly of a tower approximately 50 feet in height, where the telescope would have been housed, and which was built by John Wormald of Oldstead Hall to commemorate Queen Victoria's Coronation and where, on a clear day, views extend across northern England from Staxton Wold near Filey in the east to the fells of Cumbria in the west. There would be no views for us today however, as not only was the door locked, but there's not even an easy way to get to the door without clambering up a six foot wall! Its a strange set-up. The extension around the door has no access point at all and no evidence that one ever existed. Once up onto the wall you find the space within has been 'filled-in' with soil and now has a grassy surface leading up to the main entrance door. There is evidence that this used to be padlocked but the padlock is now missing but the door was locked. There is no key-hole so it must be bolted from the inside. How did the person who locked it form inside get out again? My better half suggested they may have abseiled down from the roof! Possible I suppose. The only other possible explanation was that there was someone already inside who didn't want to be disturbed!

From the observatory we were to locate a path beneath a corner of the tower which descended steeply through the trees. We found a path and started to follow it but we soon realised it wasn't the correct path, so we headed back to the tower and soon located the correct path and headed steeply down through the trees. It was here that we felt the first drops of rain falling from the ever darkening clouds above us. Luckily, it didn't last. It was along this path that I had a 'Blair Witch' moment! As Annette continued on, I left the main path and headed into the woods to answer a call of nature! I found a secluded spot away from the main path and proceeded to hang my GPS unit from a branch of a nearby tree. Whilst looking at the GPS hanging there, it was reminiscent of a moment from the film where strange items were found hanging from trees within a wood (anyone who has seen the film will know what I am talking about). Just at that moment the branch snapped and the GPS unit fell to the ground with a thump! Needless to say I was out of there like a shot!

The path eventually exited the wood onto a broad forest road. Turning right here, we passed a lone caravan complete with large gas cylinder, television aerial fastened to a nearby tree, plant pots outside the door and a washing line. Rather strange we thought! Things became clearer when we came across a sign close to the caravan which read 'Forest Operations'. Nice work if you can get it!

A short distance from the caravan we reached a junction where we turned left, leaving the main forest road and merging with a farm drive. Following the road downhill we joined the Kilburn - Oldstead back road, turning left again to reach the outskirts of Oldstead village. We recognised a wooden seat perched on a slight hillock and realised we had been here before on a previous walk. A short distance further on, we again took a left turn along a driveway towards Oldstead Hall. Following the drive, and pausing for a little while to stroke a couple of friendly donkeys in a field, we left the drive by a ladder stile on our right. Heading left up a steep bank we reached a stile at the top corner of a wood. Crossing over the stile we followed the field edge with views of Oldstead's rooftops to our right, before crossing another stile and following a hedge down to a short drive between the houses of Oldstead village, and out onto the main road.

Turning left again, we followed the road to reach the Black Swan pub at a road junction. We could smell food cooking from within the pub but avoided temptation by telling ourselves that if we stopped for lunch now, we would probably not make it to the end of the walk due to full stomachs! Continuing on past the pub we turned right at the first drive heading towards Oldstead Grange. It was a pleasant walk along a tarmacked road passing through cornfields and reaching a gate between two barns at a nearby farm. Through the gate the path slanted down the field to the right, reaching a bridge over a tiny stream. Just over the stream we took a sharp left to follow a rising path through some trees and along a field edge.

Passing a house on our left at Cams Head, the path lead to a stile in the corner of a field which we followed, with the wooded slopes of the Hambleton Hills to our left. The rain had started to fall more heavily now so it was a case of hoods up and heads down! It was about here that we got our first glimpse of the ruin of Byland Abbey. Crossing a further two fields and passing by some pig units, we left the tiny stream and headed for a stile beneath a lone tree over to our left. Over the stile, it was just a case of following a hedge on our left, with improving views of the Abbey, across the field edge to a stile which lead onto a road with the great west front of the Abbey now just ahead of us.

Byland Abbey was founded in 1177 and comprises of the abbey itself, another pub called the Abbey Inn, and one or two other dwellings. Close to the Inn are the remains of an impressive 13th century gatehouse arch. The abbey is owned by English Heritage, but it was closed on our visit so we had to make do with the views from the roadside. This beautiful ruin, set in the shadow of the Hambleton Hills, was once one of the great northern Cistercian monasteries. An outstanding example of early Gothic architecture, its splendid tiles are a testament to its earlier magnificence. Its splendid collection of medieval tiles still in situ is the second largest in Europe. Unfortunately, the abbey suffered at the hands of the Scots in 1322, and was dissolved in 1538.

From the abbey we followed the Wass road to just beyond a junction, where we turned left heading towards Abbey House. Before reaching the house, we passed through a gate on our right and across a field to another gate. Across this field we headed up to the left corner crossing over a much waterlogged section, to a small kissing gate set behind a bench which had been strategically placed to offer great views of the abbey. Passing through the small gate it was now only a short distance across another smaller field to a gate which lead onto the rough lane by which our walk began.

Turning right here, we followed the lane down to the crossroads and back to the car where we took off our muddy boots and made our way to The Wombwell Arms for lunch. By now we had worked-up a good appetite and, once inside, I ordered a steak, mushroom and Guinness pie, and the better half had poached chicken in a stilton, leek and spinach sauce. And very nice it was too!

 

Photographs of the walk

 

Entering Wass village

The Wombwell Arms pub in Wass where we had lunch at the end of the walk..yum, yum!

 

Mosaic tile of Byland Abbey in a garden wall

Looking back at Wass village

 

Annette on the route ahead

Heading for the observatory

 

Entering Abbey Bank Wood with the Forestry Commission path to the right

Path through Abbey Bank Wood

 

Signs of an active mole

Annette passing under a fallen tree heading for the observatory

 

Mount Snever Observatory comes into view

Mount Snever Observatory

 

The locked entrance door and our approach route

Annette exiting onto a forest road

 

Joining the Kilburn - Oldstead back road

Entering Oldstead village

 

Driveway leading to Oldstead Hall

Donkeys at Oldstead Hall

 

Annette heading down to Oldstead village

The Black Swan in Oldstead

 

Passing the cornfields of Oldstead Grange

Passing between the barns of a local farm

 

Bridge over a tiny stream turning left before the rise

First glimpse of Byland Abbey

 

Stile beneath a lone tree

Byland Abbey

 

Byland Abbey

Byland Abbey

 

Byland Abbey - the great west front

Byland Abbey as it once looked

 

The entrance in the west front of Byland Abbey

The 13th century gatehouse arch

 

Byland Abbey

Looking back at Byland Abbey

 

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