Acclimatisation

On acquiring a new Emerald Tree Boa, the first most important thing is to isolate it from the rest of the collection. This quarantine time should be taken to rid the snake of any external parasites such as mites and ticks. Faecal samples should be inspected for any abnormalities, such as excessive liquidity, colour and bad odour. Samples should also be sent off to a lab to be analysed for endoparasites. Action should be taken to treat the animal appropriately once results are known.

To rid the snake of any external parasite infestation, I use ivermectin spray as well as a course of ivermectin injections. The contents of the vivarium and snake are sprayed every other day over a period of two weeks. This works for both mites and ticks.

I have also used pest strips such as Vapona (dichlorvos) to kill mites, but more care is needed when using this substance. Prevent the snake from coming into direct contact with the strip by placing it within a perforated container, to release the vapour. Remove all sources of water as the vapour is water soluble and harmful to the snake. Place it in the vivarium for two days, and then again in a week for another two days. Finally once more in another week should clear all mites that had hatched over this period.

Ticks are more visible and tend to be found feeding between the ventral scales and more fleshy areas such as around the eyes and nostrils. They can be dabbed with alcohol and manually removed with forceps and turned head over heels to unhook the mouthparts. Care should be taken not to leave behind any mouth parts still buried in the snakes skin, which could lead to local infections.

I conduct a precautionary treatment for endoparasites with a 10% solution of febendazole (Panacur), introduced by catheter straight into the stomach. Fecal samples are then taken for analysis for possible further treatment by the veterinarian.

By far the most important aspect of acclimatising an Emerald Tree Boa is seclusion. The animal should be placed in a quiet, environment away from daily human activity that may cause disturbance. It is essential to provide as little stress as possible. I firmly believe that all Emerald Tree Boas should always be kept where they are likely to receive the least amount of external annoyance. This is especially true in the case of acclimatising a new individual. They should be housed in the most basic of conditions that promote easy cleaning and disinfecting. This would mean a simple perch such as wood doweling which would prevent any ectoparasites establishing themselves within and a water bowl placed upon newspaper as substrate. Newspaper is a good medium to use as it prevents the spread of bacteria and can be easily replaced completely. Care should be taken to wash hands thoroughly after each handling so as not to cross-contaminate between newly acquired specimens and the established collection.

Wild caught animals that make it to this country after a period of upheaval and travel, tend to be dehydrated. If this is the case it is necessary to provide conditions to rehydrate the snake. A minimum humidity of 70% should be maintained at all times. The water bowl should provide this humidity and if necessary, additional spraying of the substrate to provide a further increase. I do not believe in spraying directly onto the animal as this seems to cause annoyance, usually expressed by thrashing their tail about as if in an attempt to ward away or distract that annoyance. It is widely documented that Emerald Tree Boas will not drink from a water bowl and need to be sprayed to drink the water that collects in their coils. In my experience I have found that they will readily drink from a water bowl, thus preventing unnecessary disturbance by spraying them directly.

At this early stage I do not recommend using any further cage decoration such as foliage as this could also harbour pests and diseases and is not easy to clean.

There is a tendency to attempt to feed the animal upon first acquiring it due to it possibly appearing slightly emaciated. This should be avoided in preference to allowing it to become more established before any food is offered. Early feeding has been known to result in regurgitation which is notorious in Emeralds. It is not widely understood why Emeralds suffer from regurgitation syndrome but it has been put down to many factors such as environmental conditions and parasitic infestation. Once the snake starts regurgitating it can be difficult to stop. For this reason it is best to establish the optimum environmental conditions and cleanup the snake prior to offering its first feed. In this way prevention can be a lot easier than the cure.

Caging

There are several possible methods of housing an Emerald Tree Boa ranging from aquaria, wooden cages, and melamine coated cages through to the more recent custom-built, moulded vivaria. I make all my vivariums and use melamine coated wood due to it being cost effective and easy to construct. The use of wood or moulded vivaria is preferable to glass as they are much better insulators and prevent excessive heat loss. All my vivaria are constructed in what I call "twin caging". The basic box of the vivarium is five foot long by two foot tall and two foot deep. This is then divided down the middle, again with melamine wood. A cut-out is made into the top-rear of this dividing section to allow for a single ceramic trough heater to be placed. This heat source is then shared equally between the two vivarium sections. Glass runners are placed at the front of the vivarium to allow for sliding glass doors. All exposed and adjoining pieces of wood are carefully sealed with silicon so as to prevent any water or moisture getting into the compressed wood chippings. This can cause swelling and bowing of the cage walls.

On each end of the box a ventilation hole is cut into the wood. The hole is then covered by a adjustable ventilation screen. In this way the amount of ventilation can be somewhat varied. Care must be taken to seal all the exposed wood apparent by cutting into the melamine.

I have experimented with many different cage sizes and have found that Emeralds do better in smaller rather than excessively large accommodation. Having said this there should still be enough room for the snake to roam around and extend its coils. This movement helps with the defecation process.

Each individual vivarium will house a single snake, this makes it easier to feed and maintain accurate records of the snake.

Heating

There are many ways to provide a heat source, ranging from the very simplistic light bulb, heat pad, and heat tape through to various ceramic devices. My preferred heat source is a trough-shaped ceramic heater. The heater is placed at the top-rear within the dividing partition. Emeralds being arboreal snakes, spend most of their time resting on their perch, therefore I prefer to provide an elevated heat source. Each heater is connected to a thermostat (either Microclimate or HabiStat), which accurately regulates the temperature within the vivarium.

To prevent the snake from burning themselves on the ceramic heater it is encased in chicken wire. There should be enough of a gap between the mesh and the heater itself so that even when the snakes' tongue is extended it cannot come into contact with the hot surface. The Emerald has a tendency to strike the heat source when disturbed or at feeding times, therefore it is essential to construct the mesh in such a way as to prevent any extrusions or sharp edges.

The daytime temperature is set at 30 degrees centigrade (86 degrees Fahrenheit). Since the heat source is at one end of the vivarium this creates a natural temperature gradient. The cooler areas of the vivarium will be around 26 degrees centigrade (79 degrees Fahrenheit). This allows the snake to choose its' own preferred temperature. I have found that during the day they will seek out a temperature of 28 degrees centigrade (82.5 degrees Fahrenheit). A hotspot of 35 degrees centigrade (95 degrees Fahrenheit) is present directly beneath the heat source.

At night the thermostats' nightime drop will cut in and the temperature will drop to a low of between 25 and 23 degrees centigrade (77 - 73 degrees Fahrenheit), depending on the temperature gradient.

Dividing the vivarium in this manner, I find the single heat source controls both partitions equally and I will generally place a mating pair of Emeralds in a box, one in each partitioned section. I use this set-up to control the temperatures in each vivarium during temperature cycling. This provides a parallel environment between mating pairs of Emeralds.

Humidity

Emerald Tree Boas are indigenous to an area of the world that has very high humidity. Therefore, it is important to recreate this as effectively as possible in captivity. I maintain a minimum relative humidity of 75% rising up to 95%. I provide this requirement simply by placing a water bowl with a large surface area inside the vivarium. If I find that this is not sufficient to maintain this minimum humidity, I will employ the use of a small heat mat and partially place the water bowl over it. Using these simple methods I have always been able to maintain the necessary humidity levels.

The humidity is directly related to the animals' water balance, important in controlling natural bodily processes such as shedding, defecation and it has also been associated with regurgitation syndrome in Emerald Tree Boas.

When the animals are coming up to shed their skins and during the breeding season I will further enhance the humidity by spraying the substrate within the vivaria. Even though many successful Emerald Tree Boa enthusiasts recommend that they be sprayed directly, I don't make a habit of spraying them directly every time I spray into the vivarium as I have found, in my experience, it is a source of annoyance to the individual. There is a possible benefit to the snakes' skin and scales by placing moisture directly onto it and for this reason it cannot be ruled out and I also do so from time to time. By simply spraying the substrate once or twice a day when needed (not to the point of saturation), it is sufficient to provide all the humidity requirements of an Emerald Tree Boa.

Over the years I have tried out many elaborate ways to maintain the required humidity levels. From using humidifiers, heated waterbowls with airstones, complicated rain chambers to very fine misting systems used to propagate orchids. They all had their problems from being difficult to control to oversaturation of the vivaria (taking into account I was using wood vivaria and the more modern moulded plastic vivaria were not so commonly available then) because of having poor drainage facilities.

In the end I found that simplicity was the solution, and have not experienced any problems related to lack of humidity or dehydration with my collection.

Ventilation

A difficult subject to quantify. It is difficult to place a value on ventilation. What is too much or too little. It is said that Emerald Tree Boas require well ventilated accommodation.

I have found that Emeralds are very prone to respiratory problems, brought about by excessive ventilation, and not only colder conditions. This is easily identified by wheezing, gaping mouth and mucus blocking their nostrils and mouth. In bad cases, the individual will rest with its head pointing straight upwards to prevent the mucus blocking up all respiratory canals, this is known as stargazing. Mild cases of this disorder are easily treated by increasing the temperature slightly, prevent any draughts and good hydration. More severe cases may need to be taken care of medically.

The size of the ventilation holes should be sufficiently big enough to allow fresh air into the vivarium, and this I have found to be a case of trial and error. As there are areas of hot and cooler air within the vivarium, there will be natural circulation of the air, its just a matter of introducing enough external fresher air. All my vents are adjustable, and are adjusted so as not to allow the air within the cages to smell stagnant. I do not open any external windows in the room that may allow for a draught to develop.

Finally there is also a fine balance between ventilation and humidity. Too much ventilation and you lose humidity. This is also where adjustable ventilation grilles are useful.

Water Requirements

Water balance is very important for metabolic processes in reptiles. All have ways of controlling this fine balance with special adaptations to their environment. Water loss is generally not a problem for snakes as they have highly impermeable skin and hyperosmotic urine.

Due to their heavily keratinized skin and heavy concentration of lipids in the epidermis, they can resist water loss through the skin, but this also means that they cannot absorb water through their skin. Having said this the skin is still the major water loss surface, followed by respiratory loss and some water is lost in the faeces. Water loss in the faeces is controlled by the colon actively reabsorbing water and the excretion of a solid white uric acid. Some liquid is present to provide lubrication in expelling this waste product.

Due to these adaptations in Emeralds, water loss can be sufficiently low that they can match loss with intake from drinking and their food. With these adaptations an Emeralds' water requirement should be easily met in captivity.

It has been widely documented that Emeralds only drink from water collected in their coils, after they have been sprayed. Contrary to this, in my experience they will readily drink out of a water bowl that is placed beneath them. This is not to say that they will not drink from the pool of water that collects in their coils.

I use a large ceramic bowl, to provide the Emerald with the water supply that it needs. This bowl can also be heated from below if required to enhance the humidity.

It is important that the water is kept fresh at all times, especially if it is being heated from below as this causes it to go off quicker producing scum on the surface of the water. I have found that my Emeralds will refuse to drink out of this dirty water.

Emeralds have the ability to sense clean water, and I have regularly discovered that they will come down to drink from a water bowl that has just been cleaned and filled with fresh water.

Lighting

I do not use any sort of artificial lighting to enhance the appearance or health of my Emeralds. I use the natural ambient light that occurs seasonally, where I live. Sunlight is not allowed to directly shine straight into the vivariums as this overheating by the green house effect cannot be counter- balanced by thermostatic control.

I have found that Emeralds do not like strong lighting and will shy away from it by moving as far away as possible and burying their heads into their coils. Even to avoid the ambient light they will also spend most of their time with their heads facing away from the front of the cage.

Emerald tree boas are to be found in the canopy of the rainforest. Rainforests, by definition are closed canopy, with less than 75% of the light getting through to the ground. So it would seem that they spend most of their time in dappled or speckled sunlight.

Emeralds do not require sunlight for Vitamin D synthesis as most lizards do.

Emeralds can look quite spectacular under florescent lighting, showing off their natural iridescence, but I feel that these benefits are purely for the keeper rather than the kept.

Perches

Various items can be used as perches, ranging from wood doweling, PVC tubing, bamboo, and natural wood branches. I personally prefer using wood branches that I have collected from nearby woods. A good perch should be clean, give good support to the weight and size of the individual and provide a rough enough surface to aid with the shedding of its skin.

I use natural branches that have a good bark covering. It is advised to use a white wood rather than a red one, as some contain toxins that may be harmful to the snake. All branches are thoroughly cleaned with a mild antiseptic and wire brush to remove any possible insects, fungus and bacteria. Any sharp edges or very rough bark is removed or rubbed down, but should still have a rough enough surface to aid shedding as well as to provide a hold for the snake with its scales. I have found that Emeralds are not too keen on very smooth surfaces such as PVC piping, and have been know to cause problems with their scales combined with moisture due to spraying and humidity.

I do not allow any branches to touch the ground, and all branches are removable for ease of cleaning. They are hung onto U-shaped wooden brackets. With no branches touching the ground, it makes changing or cleaning the substrate much easier. All branches are interchangeable between cages and in this way I can move the Emeralds around together with the branch they are resting on without having to handle them at all.

It is generally accepted that the branches should vary in diameter so they can find their preferred position but a rule of thumb is to use branches of a similar diameter to the diameter of the thickest part of the individual.

Substrate

Various possibilities exist to provide a ground base for the vivarium.

In the past I have used orchid bark chippings and Astroturf, both of which provide a aesthetically pleasing picture, but not without their problems. Orchid bark has the advantage of retaining moisture providing humidity when sprayed but difficult to maintain cleanliness. In this moist environment it is difficult to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus. Each time the snake defecated, all the bark chipping would have to be removed and thoroughly disinfected. Removing just the soiled area of chippings for cleaning is unsatisfactory in my eyes.

The same went for Astroturf, when soiled, the whole piece is removed and replaced by a clean backup piece. The soiled piece is then thoroughly cleaned and made ready for use when the current piece gets soiled.

That was many years ago now, and I now use newspaper. This is easily completely removed and replaced by fresh paper. This does away with any need to keep having to clean and disinfect the substrate, and its cheaper. Newsprint also has the added advantage of preventing the growth of bacteria and not provide a hidden breeding ground for ectoparasites such as mites.

In my smaller vivariums, used for younger specimens, I use kitchen paper towelling with equal ease of use.

Newspaper and paper towelling sprayed lightly will also provide a further increase to the ambient humidity levels.

Cage decor and Plants

A certain sense of security and camouflage must be felt by an Emerald surrounded by a green leafy environment. For this reason alone a certain amount of vegetation is needed to provide this cover.

I do not use any live vegetation as they are difficult to maintain in these conditions, but the main reason is they introduce an unnecessary extra health risk, as they can be difficult to keep clean and most need soil to propagate. An additional breeding ground for bacteria and fungi.

I use plastic and silk plants, which are easy to maintain. Most of these artificial plants tend to be of the vine variety.

They are fastened to the roof of the vivarium with self adhesive cable securing plastic clips. Positioned in such a way they provide cover for the Emerald when resting on a branch below. The rear wall of the vivarium is covered with vines to give the snake a feeling of camouflage. A certain amount of foliage also covers the front of the vivarium (behind the glass doors) to conceal the Emerald from outside distractions.

The only problem I have encountered with plastic vegetation, is when the snake strikes for its prey, it has been known to get the plastic leaves at the same time as capturing its prey. Ingestion of this could be detrimental to the health of the animal.

So care must be take when feeding the snake to ensure no vegetation will get caught up with the food.

Roundup

I have found that keeping the setup as simple as possible is the best possible means for the successful husbandry of the Emerald Tree Boa. This means minimum decoration and substrate, to promote ease of cleaning and hence a cleaner environment for your Emerald.

This may not be aesthetically pleasing for many people as they tend to see the Emerald as a show animal, which looks even better under certain lighting and a natural looking environment. I would rather please the snake than the audience and anyway none of this will detract from the beauty of a healthy Emerald Tree Boa.

Emeralds are best left alone and rarely handled. One should not need to disturb or handle the snake whilst conducting routine cleaning and maintenance tasks.

Once these conditions are met, Emeralds are not as difficult to keep as sometimes stated.

Most of what I have written are my personal experiences with Emeralds over the last 10 years. There may be others that have different ideas and disagree with certain procedures, but I have found these factors to be critical in the husbandry of my Emeralds.

I believe I have been reasonable successful in the husbandry of these fascinating animals, having produced many offspring with no casualties and only ever lost one adult Emerald Tree Boa to a tumour.