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Nappy Care Tips
Tips to Keep the Environmental Impact of your Nappies Below that of
Disposables
1. Use an A rated Washing machine and descale
regularly
2. Wash pooey nappies at 60degrees
3. Wash wet nappies at lower temperatures along with other
laundry
4. Don't tumble dry - hang on a line, airer or radiator
5. If soaking, don't use a sanitiser - use
a natural agent
6. Use an eco-detergent or laundry ball
7. Use washable liners
8. Use organic products
9. Use second hand nappies, re-use them on another baby or
pass/sell on
In the Bucket
Drypailing: Many parents simply throw dirty nappies into the
bucket and leave them until washday. There is less chance of a messy accident
this way although diluting the concentration of urine will make nappies last
longer and you may find some stains require a little extra work after washing
drypailed cloth.
Wetpailing: Here are a few recipes for adding to half a
bucket of water…
- 1-4tbsp bicarbonate of soda (chemists & bakeries will sell large
quantities)
- A few drops of tea tree oil – a natural antiseptic and antifungal agent
- 1-2tbsp white vinegar
- A few drops of lavender oil – antiseptic but not as efficient as tea tree
- Napisan, Milton and bleach are not recommended – too harsh on skin and
fabrics.
Damppailing: A compromise – keep a jug in the bathroom and
pour water onto the last nappy in the bucket to dilute the urine a little. Or
just rinse the nappy in the flush. Less liquid to spill in an accident!
Many wetpailing parents use a nappy mesh to drain the bucket
without dropping the nappies down the loo! Two buckets may be also be helpful if
you have lots of nappies, one for pooey nappies in the bathroom and one for wet,
so you don’t have to wash quite so often. Do remember toddlers and
buckets of water don't mix!
Nappy Rash
Always change a nappy as soon as possible after a poo – bacteria from poo combines with stale urine to produce ammonia
which causes nappy rash. Not all rashes are nappy rash – if you are not sure, it
is almost certainly NOT nappy rash! A sweat rash can be treated with
thorough blotting with toilet roll after wiping, rubbing in
cornflour (store in a beaker for tidier sprinkling), and
plenty of fresh air fun (on a waterproof mat!)
Generally the nappy itself should not get dirty because the
liner will pick up most of the poo, although when breastfeeding poo will be very
runny. With flushable liners some stains will go through to the nappy. It may be
worth rinsing the dirty nappy in the flush of the toilet (don’t let go!) to stop
the bucket smelling and help prevent stains. Babies do not tend to poo in their
sleep, only when they wake, so if they go to bed with full bowels they will fill
their nappy shortly after waking.
Washing
-
Nappies can be washed at 60degrees although do read the washing labels for
your particular nappies and wraps.
-
New nappies should be washed a couple of times before use as this improves
absorbency.
-
Use non-biological washing powder or a laundry ball as these are not
unkind to the skin.
-
Fabric conditioners impair absorbency but half a cup of white vinegar can
be used instead to deodorise and help keep nappies soft.
-
If you live in a hard water area, eg Southampton, nappies will gradually
become hard because of the detergents that build up. It helps to use a cup of
white vinegar at 80degrees (no laundry) or a descaling product to clean your
machine and maintain its efficiency.
-
Note that staining will be worse with breastfed babies pre-weaning but
will gradually disappear. Stains can be treated with Vanish or Biotex before
washing.
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Make sure velcro tabs are closed to avoid a nappy chain and rinse Nippas
separately with tea tree oil.
-
If you accidentally wash a Weenee pad, put an empty load through the
machine and shake clothes out over the garden.
Drying
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Sunshine is best! It is a natural whitener and antiseptic. Alternatively…
-
Tumble dry (see washing label). This is still substantially less than cost
of disposables.
-
Dry in an airing cupboard, on a ceiling airer or some kind of freestanding
or overbath airer.
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Pure cotton nappies can be dried directly over radiators, Agas etc
although a good shaking will be necessary to soften them up afterwards.
Nappies or wraps with any plastic content eg Kushies should NOT be dried over
a direct heat like this.
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If you need dry terries or prefolds in an emergency, iron them!
Avoiding Leaks
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Pick a wrap that is suitable to go over the nappy you have chosen –
pad-style nappies need gusseted wraps to hold them in place (and about 5 of
them as they can get quite messy). It makes sense to buy a wrap that is
adjustable over a reasonable range of sizes.
-
If you think your wrap may be too big at the moment, try adding more
absorbent material, such as a booster pad or flannel to pad it temporarily.
Your baby will fit it soon!
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When you put the wrap on, feel around the top and the legs to make sure it
completely covers the nappy, otherwise the wet will wick out onto the clothes.
Ensure any labels are tucked in too. This will soon become second nature to
you but you will have to train babysitters etc.
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If the nappy is always saturated, eg in the morning or if you have a heavy
wetter, add a booster pad, flannel or a piece of microfibre cloth, even a
Weenee pad (no liner required). For boys try folding your booster in half at
the front of the nappy, for girls, do the same at the back.
-
A nappy with an elasticated front, eg Sandys, may also
contain spurts better, especially on tummy-sleepers.
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With pad-style nappies, eg prefolds and Weenees, it is essential to get a
very snug fit at the waist of your wrap – this ensures that the elastic around
the legs is applied firmly and that the genitals are in contact with the pad.
Ensure a boy’s penis is not to one side.
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Change your nappy regularly (or turn your Weenee pad around).
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Try a bigger vest size - stuffable nappies have certainly been known to
leak when 'wrung out' by a too-short vest.
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Remember that your baby’s 'productions' will vary over the first 6 months,
with factors such as breast/bottle feeding, weaning and (hopefully not)
sickness affecting quantity and consistency. Experimentation is part of the
fun of real nappies but eventually things will settle down and you will have
found the right combinations for you and your growing child.
Other Points
Most clothes are cut for the slimness of disposables. You can
either buy vest extenders or buy clothes that do up between the legs at least
one size larger. See the links to WAHMs who make clothes for
clothies on our
National Links page.
Do remember to adjust carseat straps everytime you baby goes
in - different nappies increase the height of your baby when sitting.
| Make your own... |
| Laundry Gloop |
Grate 1 bar of soap into
4litres boiling water. When melted remove from heat and stir in
250g soda crystals plus a few drops lavender oil. Pour into
bottles and wait until set like jelly. Use half to one cupful
(or a bobbleful) directly in the drum of your washing machine and use white
vinegar in the fabric conditioner drawer. |
| Fleece Liners |
Using an old fleece jumper
(try charity shops), cut rectangles just wide and long enough to fit into
your smallest nappy. |
| Washable Wipes |
Cut up an old towel into
postcard-sized rectangles and store in a lunchbox soaked in cold chamomile
tea or just water & teatree or lavender oil. Keep some dry for
when you're about and about and use a gentle spray like Lush EauRoma water
(not for sensitive bottoms) or your own potion in a spray bottle. |
| Booster Pads |
Cut up an old towel into
rectangles small enough to lie flat inside your smallest nappy.
Stitch 3 together at one end so they dry quicker. Use for
stuffable nappies, night nappies and heavy wetters. Also try
microfibre cleaning cloths for a slimmer booster. |
|
Talc |
Put ordinary cornflour in an old beaker and sprinkle away.
Kinder to sensitive skin than talc and so much cheaper than nappy rash
creams. |
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