Shocker Sport Turbo

Welcome to one of the most controversial pieces of equipment since constant air and easily the single most talked about paintball gun of 1998. With that said, the Shocker Turbo is a truly incredible piece of equipment. The Shocker Turbo is the newest variant to the Shocker Sport and S/Fline of low pressure electropneumatic wonder guns. Where the Turbo differs from the other two models is in the fire rate. With the Turbo board installed, the trigger pull is reduced to only .0047". Yes, you read right- this trigger is almost non-existant. The trigger (actually a micro switch) enables to the SST to blaze an incredible path of paint into the air.

Externally, the Shocker Turbo is not visibly different from any other Shocker Sport barring the word TURBO replacing 4X4 on the name sticker. The particular model used in this review happens to be a limited edition SST with vertical regulator option. The vertical regulator piece allows a player to buy one simple kit and mount their reg vertically, providing a very sturdy foregrip and eliminating the bulky, heavy reg cradle and long, large diameter hose.

The limited edition part comes in mainly with the splash pattern of this particular marker. This Black/Navy/Turquoise splash is called Midnight Sky and there were only ten produced in this pattern. Midnight Sky and several other colors, including the incredibly fast selling starburst splashes, were available at the World Cup. This particular marker also has a two finger trigger. The two finger trigger makes the already minute trigger pull shorter and smoother, as well as making those long streams much easier on the hand. This particular setup is very well balanced and points very naturally and easily. The only design flaws seem to be the sheer height of the gun and the fact that the gun needs to be degassed in order to remove the bolt.

As far as performance goes, the SST is fantastic. Range is not a question. Even at rapid fire there was no noticeable drop off and every ball nearly landed on top of each other at near and extreme ranges using RP All Star Ball, RP Scherer premium, RP Scherer Marballizer, Diablo Inferno, and Diablo Blaze. We did experience a few ball breaks. The Shocker Turbo is not invincible, it can and does break paint, although rarely. Most of the ball breaks were from three month old All Star ball that had partially been exposed to rather cold and damp playing conditions. All of the breaks save one occured in the barrel only.On more occassions than not, the SST shot all day without a single break. The best advice on paint breakage on the Shocker Turbo is to use fresh paint, it does tend to be a bit of a paint picky gun. With fresh paint in, the other team will be running scared from very far away-trust us. Velocity consistency and operating pressure are superb. Turning the SST down for indoor play, it chronoed on a regular basis at 250,250,250 fps, with only the occassional creep up to 252 or so. At this velocity, the Shocker Turbo runs at @150psi!! The average operating pressure at @290 fps is @185psi.

As far as the actual Turbo mode goes, fast seems to be an inadequate term. With the turbo turned on and the fire rate set at 11.25 balls per second, the SST blows through paint faster than you can buy it. You can single fire readily, if done slowly, but after about the fourth or fifth rapidly fired round, the turbo kicks in and the SST begins to think for itself, pumping out paint dangerously close to being full auto. That is where the controversy came in during the 1998 season. many said that the Shocker Turbo was a full auto. while Smart Parts said that it was just a very sensitive reactive trigger, much like a Automag RT. The NPPL has now ruled that the Turbo is allowed, as long as it shoots 9 balls per second or less. A word to the wise on Turbo mode: it is highly suggested that if you intend to purchase the Turbo model, also buy the powerfeed with air assist. This option makes feeding this paint demon go much smoother. The Shocker Sport Turbo is available from Smart Parts, 1-800-992-2147 and your favorit retailer. Prices begin at $895 US, but to get one like the model pictured above, prepare to shell out around $1275, without a bottle or loader.

Breaks: Incredible rate of fire Accurate Very good range Attractive splash Consistent

Bounces: Tends to be paint sensitive Very tall from loader to bottle Runs nitrogen inefficiently

TECH SUPPORT

This tech page has been put together by SP employee Aaron Stephens and evan320. If you have anything to add send it in an email to: evan320@ibm.net

We will assume you have read the manual.  Meaning you have some idea where the parts go and that your tank is properly set up with on/off valve and anti-siphon, if set up on gun.  If not, you have failed the geek test already.  What makes people buy a 800 dollar gun then not out fit it properly is beyond me.  Read the manual.

Fill your 68 cubic inch co2 tank to 4lbs 2 ounces.  lay the tank on its side, so that the anti-siphon is pointed straight up.  Crack on the on/off until you are getting mostly gas, not liquid.

MAXFLOW TECH:

We will start with the reg, somewhat common yet simple problems

1. reg is vibrating, this is called HUNTING the reg is trying to do its job but dirt or foreign matter keeps it from closing, so it vibrates. This is caused by one of the seat seals 9 times outta 10 it is the seat on the FRONT brass piston.

GO HERE:

THEN HERE:

Clean and grease OR replace oring and grease.

2. Reg is leaking out of the front.

a. IS your tank's anti siphon lined up correctly, drawing liquid will make the reg vent so it can do its job.

b. The brass piston in the front slides back and forth rapidly and minutely.  If the sucker isn't greased it sticks and cause a leak.  Regrease or replace oring and regrease. Make sure to degas before working on it.

GO HERE:

THEN HERE:

3. Reg beats down

a. on/off valve isn't turned on the whole way- duh

b. Brass piston isn't moving enuff to keep up see 2b above.

c. you are outta air -duh or even better you overfilled your tank... rapid fired and made a nice solid chunk of co2 ice in your tank that isnt evaporating into gas fast enuff to operate your gun.  I see this happen so much it isnt funny.

4. Reg pours air out the front.  You probably aired up the gun to quickly, you should learn to read, as a warning was in your manual, and you should then see 2b above to fix your mistake.

5. Reg creeps UP and vents air.  Okay this means you need to rebuild the backend especially the seat, this is pretty rare and I don't have the pics up, email me.

SOLENOIDS:

FIRST OF ALL:

6.CHECK your battery a weak battery can make a gun:  Shot full auto, Leak almost every where including solenoids and out the barrel.  Just up and quit working and other things.

now... once you are positive your battery is fresh you can go on.

7. solenoids

a. Look at the diagram below.  MAKE SURE the gun leaks out of the numbered hole SPECIFICALLY. The solenoid can also leak AROUND THE SEAL, in which case you remove the solenoind, grease the gasket and reattach. Do this on a clean surface with no distractions and do it correctly, it isn't that hard.

The solenoids are different and are not interchangable, be sure to attach the correct solenoid to the correct position. If it is leaking from one of the slots to the sides of the solenoids look at the diagram below.

b. If it is leaking out of a specific hole find the hole number and look below.

hole 1.  plunger is dirty, you cannont fix this must be replaced.   You do not have the tool to do this.

hole 2. the end cap is on upside down.  The lil line must be pointed towards the gun.

hole 3. the shaft has some dirt or teflon tape etc on it.. pull it out by removing the end cap (near the number two) watch the small spring the point of the cone attaches to the shaft notch.  Look inside as well.

damn that was easy huh?

MECHANICAL INTERNALS:

8. Bolt leaks between the body and the bolt -ah HA!

a. shaft seal is bad usually they get pinched somehow. Replace where the arrow points.

b. Leaks between bolt housing and inner plug.

This is the inner o ring, seperate the bolt housing and the inner plug look inside... There is a oring about the diameter of the plug, replace it with the right oring.

9. Gun starts to skip shots.  This often has to do with maintenance.  Parts often slow down, to keep this from happening here is a guide.

a. firing piston, should be a smooth but firm fit.  Keep it lightly greased.  To test, flip the piston over in your hand, slide in and out as so:

b. The bolt is important too, this is the only thing I grease every day of play, and only on the BOLT HEAD.

grease around the orings

c. eventually your popet spring will wear down, this will take a while but it can cause skipped shots as well especially if you are noticing that the gun cycles but doesn't fire and isn't pinching balls.

10. Gun leaks out the barrel.  Often this is the firing piston.  If you ever need to replace the front firing piston seal make sure it is the correct durameter.  If it is the wrong one it will just peel off.

11. Poppet leak.  gun leaks here:

This is between the poppet housing and the poppet insert. Fix this by seperating the housing and insert, replace the oring inside that is about the same diameter as the insert.

MORE TO COME