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Hawke Owners Club | |
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Send me your hints & tips martin@hawkeownersclub.co.uk | |
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Car Cover
For added
protection when leaving the car outside have a look at the Storm
Cover produced by Phoenix Designs. I bought one this last year
and have found it very useful, not only when leaving the car
overnight at hotels etc but also during the day when parked up
to keep out dust, the sun and affording an element of
‘security’. It’s quick to fit, very light and comes with its own
storage bag. Being designed for the Morgan there are a couple of
redundant elastic fastenings but overall the fit on my +2 is
very good. John Taylor at Phoenix Designs can be contacted on
www.morganhoods.co.uk |
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Wiring Information I'm nearing completion of my Hawke Build. (About 4 week ends left on the build of a GCS Hawke Plus 2 with 2 ltr Pinto injection). I used the sierra wiring loom which I adapted to suit the kit. This has some advantages especially when using the Pinto injection as the engine loom is quite complicated, but it still takes a fair while to remove all unwanted wires and to loom up for the kit. If the Sierra loom is carefully removed from the donor you will find that the Sierra loom is too long in the most part but that some of the lighting runs will have to be increased in length (depending upon where you run the loom in the tub). As an aid I drew up a wiring diagram of the Sierra loom (The donor was a 1987 2ltr Injection GLS) and I found this of tremendous help when installing the loom into the kit. It took three months to complete the wiring (Working at week ends) but this included adding very comprehensive instruments and splash proof plugs on all wiring terminations. As an aid to other builders I attach a copy of my Sierra wiring diagram (It's a zipped excel file). If any one has any queries I'd be please to attempt to answer them. David Fisher |
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| Tim Mackey's Steering Column Problem & Solution | ||
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Anti Rattle
Clips Picked up some anti-rattle clips for the caliper/ pads on my Cortina based car at Stoneleigh. Quite a few people I showed the broken one to had no idea what it was even ( including LCD developments and several other Hawke owners). Helpful chappie on a stand specialising in Ford steering/brakes recognised it immediately, and flogged me a new set (with new pins and anti squeak shims) for around a fiver. Best fiver spent on the car so far !! Completely removed the final little annoying rattle I used to get from "somewhere down the front end" - everything had been nyloced and or greased squirted etc, but could never find this last bloody rattle ! SORTED. Can probably find the dealers details if anyone wants them Tim Mackey |
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Wiper Wiring & Variable Interval
Wipe
Circuit Tim Mackey |
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Automatic Locking Rear Seat Back.I have finally got around to flooring in the area above the fuel tank – I know a lot of folks have already done this, but my car came “ready built” and the builder obviously hadn’t bothered. For the benefit of those who are currently building, or also have not yet bothered I include the project with accompanying pictures. We all know how valuable every bit of storage space can be on the car, so some scrap galvanised metal was acquired, and after cutting a cardboard template, the new “boot” was fitted in place with dome head M4 stainless screws (the metal was a bit thin to use countersunk screws).. These prevent any possible damage to luggage bags as they are shoved in and out, and facilitate easy removal if required for access to fuel tank etc. A side panel was fitted to the right hand side (with a small tubular receptacle for storing fuel additive bottle!), and a fibreglass storage unit fitted into the space at the left, right down to the bottom of the well. This makes an ideal storage area for the jack, wheel brace, small tool roll, and jump leads whatever. |
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The Electric Locking MechanismHaving been inspired by Roger Clark’s lockable seat arrangement, I set about designing a locking seat-back system for our car. I wanted a system which would be secure, yet convenient to use, with an “ idiot-proof ” set-up that would automatically lock the seat in the event of the car being un-occupied. Having experimented with winding home made solenoid coils, electro-magnets etc, I eventually took the easy route and obtained some central door locking actuators. These were a fiver from the local breakers, and unlike the solenoid, consumed only minimal current from the battery, and also moved the plunger in both directions mechanically without the need for return springs/levers etc. Depending on the actual model you use, you will basically have a motor and cam or rack and pinion driven plunger with approx 1 inch of travel (pic 1) |
 Pic 1 |
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| However….mine ( and probably most other types ) have a free floating arrangement so that turning the original door locks with a key did not force the mechanism. As I intended to mount an actuator in the upright position at each end of the seat, a system of holding the locking pin in position was needed, as otherwise there was a risk that the locking bolt would slip down via gravity. I settled on a "spring loaded steel ball in groove system", which I made up on my little hobby lathe from scrap bits of aluminium and other bits and bobs lying about.( pics 2 and 3) | ||
 pic 2 |
 pic 3 |
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| Obviously individual designs will be determined largely by what you have. The complete actuator and locking rod assembly was then mounted onto an aluminium plate, for fixing ( pics 4 and 5). | ||
 pic 4 |
 pic 5 |
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| I chose the rear uprights behind the seat, as they are strong, and ideally placed so as not to obstruct the original space whatsoever.( pic 6) | ||
 pic 6 |
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| To avoid straining the actuator arm, I made up a "receiver" plate for the bolt end to slide into when locked. This, together with the first block of aluminium makes a very strong and secure mounting for the locking rod. For a general view of the units fitted, see pic 7. | ||
 pic 7 |
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A metal plate, (with a hole aligned for the locking rod ) was fitted at each end of the seat back,) and has proved to be extremely secure. As for the electrics...I wired a single pole changeover relay into the power supply, in such a way as that when the ignition is off, the relay drops out, and grounds the relevant actuator wire to chassis, to push the locking bolt into place. When the ignition is on, the relay is activated and switches the other wire to chassis, pulling the bolt out. This way, I can not inadvertently leave the vehicle with the seat insecure! Actuator common terminal is wired to the live side of the isolator, so it will work even when the isolator key is out. Obviously a fuse is fitted in circuit close to the battery, to avoid any problem with accidental shorting of wiring, or stalled actuators etc. Hopefully the pictures will explain the project
better than my words! |
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