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*New* Follow the restoration of my Fli S2 Lambro, as it happens!

Well I started work on restoring my Lambro in August 2004, with the plans to have it all done and ready to ride it the next year to the Isle of Wight scooter rally. Well after some rather lenghty delays in the paint work side of things, I have pretty much got it all painted and going back together now! .
I stripped, and got painted the main frame, and a bit of other stuff got done way back in 2004, to see what was done then, click here
Other wise below is the work part II starting again in May 2008!

Fast forward to winter 2010, while waiting for a friend to come and help me fix my car, I was in my garage and been tinkering with the Lambro again. The whole day was spent on it in the end as my friend never turned up, and I had a great day having fun and actually getting some work done. I had along the way managed to buy a few more parts for the truck, complete new wiring loom, some spare wheel cylinders just in case, exhaust brackets, wheel locking washers, horn and of course all the nuts and bolts.

While fitting the wiring loom, I connected a slave battery I keep in my garage and used it to test all the electrics. Being pretty common to the Lambretta family of colours used, within an hour it was all wired, plugged in and working. Early (and maybe late) Lambros need a battery for the ignition circuit, as they power the coil from the battery, and the earth of the coil breaks to earth through the contact points. As I had a two wheeled Varitronic electronic ignition fitted, I had to change the way the Lambro was wired. I wanted to do this without modifying the loom in any way so it could very easilly be put back to how it was meant to be, as I kept the working flywheel and stator. Any how the long and short of it is you have to use a Lambretta scooter igntion switch, as the Lambro one wont cut the ignition, and powers most things to live when you turn it on. Using a scooter one, you can kill the ignition side to earth, and still have the lights controlled by the ignition switch so it doesnt drain the battery!

Once I finished the wiring, the next thing to get it all running is fuel. As I had used an Indian stage four 200cc cylinder, I had decided to upgrade the carb to a SH22 to match the top end. Problem number one, which I hadnt thought out, the Lambro carbs exit towards the rear, but with a two wheeled cylinder fitted, the manifold would only line up if the carb faced forward. This would have been fine if I just fitted a remote air filter, but I want to keep it look i pretty orig9inal and tro to use the intake system. So I had to loose the top end, but I remembered we had some Lambro 200 cylinders at work, and remembered they are useless on two wheels because of the size of the inlet, this is the reason why! New cylinder fitted, the original manifold now fitted, and becuase the inlet is much smaller opted to fit a carb from an SX200, the SH1/20.
While waiting for some more parts to turn up, I took care of the front mudguard. The gaskets seem impossible to find, and so whilst mine is really not in that good a condition, several nights were spent cleaing it from the thick layer of paint it had on it. Mudguard on, time to turn my attention to the steering. I wheeled the truck outside, and pushed it backwards and forwards a number of times to align the steering so it was straight.
Inside the cab, the handle bars are secured to the forks by one single bolt, this pinches the centre yoke to the forks. The same bolt is also used to secure the steering damper disc. Two "braking" pads fit in the housing either side of this, and when you tightend the knurled knob, the pads grip the disc and the steering wobble is dampened.!
Finally we seem to be getting some where, all wiring, cables, steering etc all done, and the dash except the speedo is all complete. Oh the wiring for the wiper motor is in place, but the motor is away being checked over.
I lost a few of the spacer washers for the rear leaf springs, they need twelve in total and I managed to loose two. I took me a little while of searching, but I got away with using sump bung washers, which are vertically identical to the shims!
I wasnt going to bother with the wiper blade, but since I had no motor, it made sense to use the time it was away to overhaal that as well, especially as it was so easy to do and the effect is worth it. If you look at the back of the wiper, three screws and its all apart. Strip the rubber blade out carefully, as you can re use the metal strips and just get a new rubber. The base of the arm and blade were painted, the middle metal arm was Nikel plated, and a new rubber fitted.
Sad to say when I first got the truck and took it for an MOT, the tester said it failed as it had no washer system. So I took it home and fitted one, then a few years later I found out if its pre 1962 you dont need a washer system, so dont get caught like I did having to drill holes in your body to fit one! Thats the additional part you can see on the blade, a small bracket, a period chrome washer jet will all be hooked back up to the washer system. I used a manual system from the old Fiat 500. About 20.00 gets you a bag, manual push button pump and all the hose.
When I stripped the floor pans out all those years ago, most of the screws were rusted in, and being a plonker I drilled them all straight out. Most of the holes were fine, but a couple got oversized due to rust and my heavy handness, so to correct this I used cup washers, fitted upside down. Once tight, you can then beat the outer lip of the cup washer flat to the floor pan, if you do a good enough job, it almost looks good!
Floor fitted, just got to scrubb the 30 years of Italian mud off the mats now.
Seat box in next, the interior is just about done now.
Video Time, its running!

As the engine is all up and running, electrics, fuel, exhaust all done, its time to test the running gear!
I have tested fitted the battery tray and battery, as the one I managed to find is from a later model, and larger then what should be fitted. Two of the mounting holes lined right up, so I used them for bolting the tray down. The third bolt hole didnt go through a chassis rail underneath, but with the only battery I could find that seem to be within measurements to actually fit, the overflow for the battery lined up so well with the tray spare hole, I simply drilled through the floor pan for the vent tube, and it almost looks as though it should be there! I researched battery sizes for two days solid, I googled every thing from motorcycles to jetskis, cars to fork lifts, the closest one I could find to fit the tray was a little too small. Luckily I had some padding for the battery in the form of a tool box lining, so this gave good height for the straps. I also cut two strips of the padding, and used them for inside the straps, so now the battery is held tight.
If you look closely, you might notice a small switch at the rear of the battery tray, by the side of the battery, I use this as a simple isolator so try and save any battery drain that might happen when the truck is not in use. If you keep your ignition standard, as the ignition requires battery power, you could if you wanted to do the same, this would also act as a very low tec immobilser as well!
Doors time, they are quite simple to strip and put back together, just take your time on all the fixings for all the parts and dont break them like I did! The window hinges are bolted straight into the door, one snapped, and I lost all the spacers. New spacers were made out of front brake drum cable top hats, I cut the bottom off and they made almost perfect spacers. The threads were cleaned up and then the assembling begun.
A few of the hinges mounting screws snapped when stripping them all those years ago. I had to carefully grind them down as flat as possible, then drill and tap them to the original M5. I lightly polished the hinges, then fitted them using stainless fixings. The windows were then fitted, and the door attached to the body. One door done, just one more to do.
The door with the locks fitted, hinges and windows, they are only held on by two bolts from the hinges, and very light so its an easy job to do on your own.
The rear shocks are a little bigger and beafier then the two wheeled versions. You can just about get Italian scooter shocks to fit, they are at their utmost travel so will be subjected to strain if your wheels travel over ruts in the road etc, so only use two wheeled versions as a last resort. I got these ones from a guy in Italy on ebay who always seems to list them, so fingers crossed he still has some if you need some.
Front shocks, all I did for this was to take standard two wheeler shocks, drill the lower mount bush out to 8mm, and boltedf them on. They are not perfect, but much cheaper then try to find or buy the proper ones. Of course I hope I will find some in time, but for now these look standard!
Front mudguard bumper bar, fork embelishers, and front and rear damppers are the only extras fitted to the truck, all the mod lights and mirrors will be fitted later :-)
Shocks all fitted and in position, very nearly done.
Two cuppiniu bolt on legshield mirrors were cut, threaded and fitted existing holes in the door. If you look in the centre of the picture on the body, the real mirror mounting holes are there, but its very hard to get a good looking mirror that fits there, as you have to account for the door opening onto a static mirror.
I left my back bed outside for more years then I can remember, and its something that did not stand up to being rejected like that. I did have a spare rear body, but gave that away to somebody who didnt have one at all, with the state mine is in, I wish I had kept it to make one good one out of the two. Still not to worry I have plans!
I cut all the rot out and this is all I had left! No it wasnt that bad, but the sides certainly need a heck of a lot of work. So my plan is to repair the flat bed and back, which I can then fit a varity of backs to that base, so I dont just have the one back! The bed although poor, is easy enough to save with a few weeks work, so thats stage one. The sides will be repaired and made to bolt on at a later date.

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