The DOWN can be difficult to train. Either use the SHAPING method and wait for your dog to go down on his own and C/T or LURE him by placing a treat on his nose, slower lower it to the floor between his front paws and then slowly move it backwards towards his body. Any movement to bend should be rewarded. If after many attempts Fido does not get the hang of it try using your legs as an arch. Sit on the floor with your legs bent and try and lure him under. If it is a very big dog then use a chair. Your pooch really has to duck under your legs to get the treat and when he is finally down on the floor C/T. As I have said previously, BE PATIENT, PERSEVERE, YOUR DOG CAN DO IT (EVENTUALLY). This is when a jackpot comes into its own! Go on, after all that effort doesn't he deserve it!Go on and train the STAND. Wait for that action and C/T or lure into position and C/T. This should be an easy one. Eventually add the Cue word.
HAND IN COLLAR is a good behaviour to learn. This will mean to can get control of Fido without hassle. Useful for attaching lead easily, grooming and when at the Vet's Surgery etc. Start off by putting your hand into your dog's collar for a second releasing and then immediately Click and Treating. Puppies may struggle at first and even try and bite. Have none of it, it is essential you hang on! When Fido realises you mean business and gives in Click and Treat straight away. Gradually lengthen the time you hold on to their collar before you Click and Treat. Eventually your dog will calmly accept this and a very useful lesson will have been learnt!
Next try the dreaded RECALL. The bane of most dogowners life. Try on the lead at first. Call Fido's name for this one and you can also say COME. I know this is contradictory after saying wait until the behaviour is learned but this is the exception because I have found by experience that this works the best. When they arrive in front of you C/T. Get a friend to hold your pet and go a little distance away and repeat the process. Do this everywhere! Especially in the park , but until the behaviour is extremely reliable, do it on lead. When Fido comes happily to you also briefly put your hand in his collar before you C/T. He is learning coming back to you is the best thing since sliced bread! Tell him what a great dog he is. Make it fun!
Even after all these years I always carry treats in my pocket and when I get good recalls from my three dogs when outdoors I still reward them. It works!
WALKING ON A LOOSE LEAD. This can be hard for some canines, especially large and powerful dogs. You cannot have too many hard and fast rules for this because they all respond very differently so here are a few suggestions. Start off having a fairly short lead. You have to be in control for this one so long leads are out! Start walking and when Fido pulls stop still, do not move and wait. When your dog turns and looks at you or lets the lead go slack immediately C/T. Continue walking, you will not get very far the first few times but you can slowly build up the distance before being pulled and Fido will hopefully realise that not pulling is what you want. Encourage your dog back to the heel position by your left side and start again.
Sometimes this takes so long to work that extra measures are needed. Try this exercise, when Fido pulls, turn and walk smartly away in another direction. If he is not pulling C/T. If he pulls again, walk backwards. Be unpredictable! Confuse Fido! When he twigs he is not going to get anywhere fast and starts to walk nicely C/T. Phew!!! This may seem like walking in ever decreasing circles and people in the park may think you have a screw loose but this method will work if you keep at it.
If you find it difficult holding the dog on the lead, the clicker and the treats, then try tying his lead around your waist to leave your hands free, this will also Give you more stability. By this stage of training you will probably need to keep your treats in a baitbag or in a convenient pocket anyway.
Whilst you are training loose lead walking always reward nice calm trotting beside you with Clicks and Treats. Do not be stingy!!!!
STAYS. This one is not too difficult because you have achieved half the required element anyway. From the sit or the down before clicking and treating your pooch wait for a couple of seconds. Start to stretch the time before clicking and treating and when you can get Fido to wait for his reward for more than five seconds add the cue word STAY. Try this exercise on lead to begin with.When you are having success gently lower the lead to the ground, take one step away from your dog, wait for a few seconds, return to Fido and C/T keeping him in the sit or down whichever he started in. Do not reward him if he gets up, just start over again. Gradually take more steps away from Fido each time and by this method you can slowly build up the distance between you and your pet whilst he remains in a stay.
JUMPING UP. This is not too difficult, just takes patience. When your dog jumps up on you turn and walk away. Do nothing, just ignore him. You may find yourself coming and going for some time! Watch your dog. When he eventually contains himself and does not jump up when you approach immediately click and treat for having all four paws on the ground. Get friends to approach and do the same thing. This will take some time to achieve but practice makes perfect!
REMEMBER KEEP ALL TRAINING SESSIONS SHORT AND ALWAYS END ON A SUCCESSFUL NOTE. NEVER GET CROSS AND IF YOU FIND YOURSELF GETTING FRUSTRATED STOP, TRY AGAIN LATER. TRAINING MUST BE FUN FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG. IN CONCLUSION BY NOW YOU MUST HAVE REALISED THAT THE PRINCIPLE OF CLICKER TRAINING IS JUST TO REWARD ACTIONS YOU WANT AND TO IGNORE THE ONES YOU DO NOT. SIMPLE ISN'T IT? IN TIME YOU PHASE THE CLICKER AND TREAT OUT BUT AS I HAVE STATED ON MY HOME PAGE REWARDS GIVEN RANDOMLY THROUGHOUT A DOG'S LIFE WILL PAY DIVIDENDS!
On a personal note..
This winter I am using the C/T method together with a small piece of carpet to train little Ozzie to get his touch points in agility. I am putting the piece of carpet on the end of the touchpoint, yelling the cue word and when his feet hit the carpet C/T. In time I will dispense with the carpet and just use C/T when his paws are on the touchpoints. I will not phase the C/T out in training but intend to go on using it until I get success in the actual agility show ring where of course, I cannot use it! Wish me luck.