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Rakahanga is an island under real threat from the selfishness of the developed world. Like its nearest neighbour, MANIHIKI, it's so low lying that it will disappear without trace if the Greenhouse Effect causes sea levels to rise even a little.

There are two main islands and seven motus or islets in the Rakahanga lagoon, one of which is pictured above. But unlike other islands, this lagoon isn't suitable for pearls. Huge coconut crabs (above right) are its gems, and fishing is good on the outer reef. Large sea turtles abound there too. Each January, a tuna fishing contest takes place and boats return with 200 or more fish a day. Vegetation is abundant, large breadfruit trees line village paths and coconut palms and pandanus trees thrive. Women weave fine rito hats, mats and baskets from the pandanus leaf fibres.

Cooking Rakahanga Style

A coarse dry taro called puraka or swamp taro is enjoyed by locals, but considered bland and starchy by foreigners. One European who lived on Rakahanga passed on his favourite recipe which is reproduced in the "Cook Islands Companion" by Elliot Smith (see My Sources for more details). I hope he won't mind me sharing it with you in case you find the root vegetable in your local supermarket one day!

Cut up the puraka into small chunks about the size of a thumb. Put them in a pot of boiling water, along with a coral rock about as big as your hand, and cover the pot. Cook it all for three hours, adding some salt and pepper every hour or so. When the three hours are done, drain away the water, throw away the puraka and eat the rock. It will still have more flavour than the puraka!