Questions and comments of ZZR600 Fans

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sorry for the delay in relying nick this could be attributed to may things fuel problem (filter or fuel pump or dirt in the carburretors) carb jetting (if running non standard exhaust) timing problem (check timing rotor and cam chain tension) worst case senario could be possible ECU failure I would check these in this order hope this helps Nick Nicholls wrote: hi jus can you please help as you have done in the past got a prob with my zzr 600 if i am riding along at any speed in any gear and i wip the throttle open the bike misses and splutters if i ease off it clears open again it starts however if it goes past 3000revs no probs and if it is sputtering and i keep the throttle open in clears about 3500 revs i have balanced the carbs but made no differance can you help because it is a nightmare to pull off from a juction or up a hill. many thanx nick sorry for the delay in replying - as far as I know all the zzr600 parts are interchangeable in the E-model range (some mechanicals can be exchanged from the D model range but not the cosmetics. when I had my problem the fault had damaged the selector drum and the gear dogs. I would recommend sourcing complete gearbox internals from a breakers off a low mileage bike. mine cost me £65.00, to buy all the individual gears from a dealer would have been £235.00 hope this helps jus jb wrote: i was looking for gears to buy for my bike or possibly a new engine/trans on ebay and came across your site. my problem involves the bike dropping out of second gear on hard acceleration. i know that the 05+ zzr600's are based on the old ninjas, but do you know if the engine/trans are swappable into the 03? what about the gears, do you know anybody that sells them? if you want to replace the shock on the cheap - best bet is to shop round some breakers - second hand shocks go for £40-£ if you are looking to uprate performance - you may find the odd Ohlins shock on e-bay but they go for around £250 mark you may want to enquire to see if a ZX6R Ninja might fit, they are very similar bikes, I have never tried this so dont quote me - if you can get your old one off and take it to a breakers for comparison. let me know how you get on Ian Jeavons wrote: Hi there Great site by the way. I need to replace my rear shock on my ZZR600E5. I am looking to do it on the cheap, Do you know of any shock from another bike which will fit the ZZR? Regards ian Hi Paul Thanks for the e-mail if the engine has been well cared for I have known these kawasaki lumps go for 80,000 miles plus. Mine has 51,000 and still going strong the lack of top end speed, does question though its power output, I weigh 18 stone, I have noticed that over 130, the wind resitance does start to sap the power, however flattening yourself down on the tank and tucking your limbs in can then easily produce 150mph+ from your e-mail it sounds like the top end, ie cams and valves may have excessive wear, this would mean that the valves may not be opening fully, The engine is not necessarily "knackered" would just be underperforming. if you can live with that, and keep up a good maintenace schedule, you could ride it till it went bang. If you really really like the bike, you could always source a good low mileage lump and transplant it, these go from between £150 - £350 on ebay etc or you may find a complete head with cams, however this may cost as much to do as swapping out the entire engine, the engine would probably need to come out anyway to do the work. hope this helps jus "Davies, Paul G" wrote: Hi Love the web site. I had a ticking noise and assumed it was the valve clearances. It was minimal but concerned me. I got the bike back form the mechanic with a noisier tick and he said I needed a top end overhaul and I should buy a new engine as at 46,000 miles its Knackered. I find it hard to believe as although I have the "gearbox", everything else seems ok. Apart from I have only had 130mph on a good day downhill (I do weigh 17 stone) it goes like a pearl. What do you think, Have I been ripped off or am I looking at a retirement case for the bike. Its nothing to look at except for a Jack Nicholson piccy on the tank by Trotsky but I love her.

GEARBOX PROBLEMS

jon baker wrote 23.07.2006:

Hi Jus Hope you still have your zzr, I have just recently had the same problem with gearbox in second, again this was the selector drum, managed to replace all of the parts and put back together, my only problem is that when you remove the timing housing cover there is oil in there, there is no crank shaft oil seal that I can see either on the engine or my doner engine , is this normal or should I be worried, bike seems to run ok, but it niggles in back of my mind that it will cause problems. Any advice much appreciated jon

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi jon thanks for your e-mail - glad you got the gearbox sorted I have just consulted the Oil flow chart and it does show a feed to the crank and drain inside the rotor housing , so this is normal. I have attached the oil flow chart for you to see Hope this helps jus

Oil Flow Chart

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Q. - Johan Brussen wrote: 10.07.2005

Hello Kawasaki fan
We also have the second gear problem. We want to repair it ourselfs. Can you send us some documentation and hint's?
Regards
Johan Brussen

A. - JUS WROTE

if you are going to attempt this procedure, I seriously recommend getting a manual. you have to follow the manual to to remove the engine.
turn the engine over and remove the bottom casing, the manual explains the procedure.
you will most probably need a replacement shift drum, and second gear cogs, driver and driven as the gear dogs will most likely be shot.
or do as I did and obtain a very low mileage gearbox internals, this generally works out cheaper.
I paid £60 for a full gear change mechanism. a damn site cheaper as a seconfd gear cog alone was 75.00 plus vat from kawasaki
before you attempt to strip anything, check the obviuos things like the gear change shaft, if this is stiff or seized cxan often give the same symptoms as the second gear gremlin.
hope this helps.
jus

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FINTAN BRENNAN wrote:

Hi justin, Great site, nice to see someone with such a great interest in the zzr. I drive a zzr 400n which is the equivalent of a zzr 600e, and am having the same problem as yourself with the gearbox. I have managed to source a complete engine with low milage and good gearbox from a zzr400k (equivalent to zzr 600d) and was wondering if you would know if the complete engine and gearbox would fit directly into my bike and hook directly to the electrics etc... (ie, would 600d engine be direct replacement for 600e?) Would appreciate any help on this matter as my local kawasaki dealer is looking for crazy money to set my valves and fix the gearbox. Thanking you, Fintan.

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi fintan, Thanks for the kind comments about the site regarding your question, as far as I am aware the zzr400 and zzr600 used identical crankcases - the only difference being the barrels and psitons and heads - the internal gearing may be differnt ratios on the 400 to the 600 however the gearing may have been lowered at the front sprocket I know the ZZR600 D engine is virtually identical to the ZZR600E, (apart from some of the later E-models have a few more brake horsepower - proably modifications to the head to impove flow i presume, Also the on gearbox internals have round dogs but the E model have square dogs??) therfore I presume there should be little or no difference between a 400N and 400K Ithere are only 3 electrical connections direct to the engine - 1. for the generator/charging circuit(on the left), 2.the CDI pick up for the ignition (on the right) and 3. the neutral light wire (behind the front sprocket cover. there should be no reason why it wouldnt fit, the worst case scenario if it didnt, you could split the crankcases of both engines and swap out the bad internals (get hold of a manual for all the correct torque setting etc though) I hope this helps jus

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James Speedy wrote: 11th sept 2005

Hello again Jus Ive been riding around a bit and i find that the gear changes from neutral to 1st, 1st to 2nd , to 3rd are very clunky. Please could you tell me if this is normal or do i have a problem? Clutch is adjusted ok, so mabe i have bought a 3000 mile bike with bent shift forks or a faulty overshift mechanism? I dont know anything about the overshift bit. Some times it feels like with a very gentle foot it changes up a bit quieter though then it is prone to not shifting fully and falling out of gear. Thanks very much for any help in diagnosing the problem. Its quite worrying me if i bought a dud for £2400 James Speedy

A. - JUS WROTE

having numerous conversations with owners, mechanics and bike enthusiasts, it appears ZZR600's are renowned to have a "clunky" box, unless you are having difficulty actually selecting gear, I would consider it "normal", i find mine noisier and clunkier If I have a pillion for example as putting more strain on the box. I have also found If the chain is too slack, or too loose, It can amplify the noise slightly, Also make sure you change the oil regularly, it is worth paying out a bit more for the "right stuff" and often, Keeps the engine and box sweet. I find now, that as mine has considerable miles on it, if the oil is deteriorating, it still throws it out of second on the odd occasion. Unless you actually get a problem changing gear, I wouldnt worry too much.

CLUTCH PROBLEMS

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Nick Nicholls wrote: 11th June 2006

hi jus can you help me i took my bike out today did about 100miles and stoped for a drink i noticed some oil on my right boot i checked the bike and cant see were it coming from there is some trace of oil in fornt of the clutch caseing buy that smaller caseing (timming roater i think it called) have you any idea what the prob could be and if i remove the caseing will i need a new gasket please help many thanx nick p.s there is no oil pudle on floor and level seems ok

A. - JUS WROTE

sounds like either the clutch gasket and/or clutch arm oil seal. it would not leak from the rotor housing as this is dry. cheap and easy to do. get a clutch gasket set from kawasaki, remove right hand side panel, the clutch cable, clutch casing, remove the the clutch release arm from the casing and replace the oil seal there reinstall the clutch arm. carefully remove all traces of old gasket from both mating surfaces on the cover and engine, fit new gasket and refit clutch casing tighten bolts, refit cable and tension. job sorted, common place for leaks bottom of clutch arm. should only take about half an hour and less than a tenner for the gasket set hope this helps jus

CALIPER/BRAKE PROBLEMS

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Q. - Chris bevington WROTE 12.07.2005

Hello I have just done a caliper rebuild on my ZZR600D due to printing your caliper rebuild page off, i would just like to thank you for that page as it was very simplified and easy to understand and most of all very handy and thanks to you my calipers are looking like new again. thanks Chris bevington P.S i dont suppose you have one (caliper rebuild) for the rear brake caliper From chris bev

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi Chris Thanks for the comments - I am glad the guide was useful, I havent done a Rear rebuild yet, But may do one soon - the set up is pretty similar to the front - but with just one piston - If I do one I will certainly put the details on the site

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Jonathan Wilson wrote: 03.08.2005

Hi, I'm in the middle of rebuilding the calipers om my zzr at the moment and it was most encouraging to come across your site! Mine didnt look as corroded from the outside as yours but the pistons all had nice rusty little rims which had stopped most of them from moving. The bike is less than 5 years old too. Just wanted to ask if you have ever attempted adjusting the valve clearances on your zzr? I got mine done by a dealer last time but I still wasnt happy with it afterwards and it cost rather a lot. It looks like a fairly complex task though, if any of the shims need changed the cams have to come off. Its even quite hard to get into the cam cover bolts unless you have a really flat socket. Woudl be grateful if you have any advice on this job, Cheers Jonathan

A. - JUS WROTE

thanks for the e-mail calipers...hmmm i get a lot of questions about them - I was in my local motorcyleshop and a policeman came in, who was also an avid bike rider and spotted I was after seals for a kawasaki, it seems to be a common problem.
He advised he strips his calipers on his zx9R every six months just to clean them to prevent corrosion - may not be bad advice really
Kawasaki recommend replacing the seals themselves every 2 years in the service guide not a bad job for them if the pistons need replacing to - for kawasaki genuine parts your looking near the £300 figure.
Valve clearances...
you proably have two options
ask a friend for help who had done a few before....
A friend offered to help me with mine, but is a long distance truck driver so is very hard to get hold of - he says once you have done it once it is easy, I think it is just getting someone who has done it with you to show you the ropes
Or
shop round for a reputable mechanic - not necessarily a kawasaki dealer
I am putting mine in to a bike dealer that was recommended by a friend - he has quoted me £80.00 plus shims - approx £3 each however this may sound dear but you very rarely have to replace all 16 - you can interchange the ones you remove for others that need replacing
If you are local to the huddersfield area I can give you his contatc details and you may want to give him a try
yes the cams do have to come out - but you measure all the gaps before hand and do your calculations - if I deem it ncessary I will put the calculation tables and blurb from the kawaski manuals online soon, (if i can get away with the copyright)
hope this helps

jus

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JAMES SPEEDY wrote: 11th Sept 2005

Hello I just bought a low mileage zzr600 e9 which had been ridden in salt. Ive cleaned it up and looks ok but for some lacquer missing on left fork and rear wheel due to corrosion. The queston is: Should i do any precautionary service to the calipers or leave them alone as they work ok at the moment. Any good hints apreciated for a newbie first time modern bike owner. Thank you.

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi James, thanks for the e-mail Firstly, I Have one main philosophy with mechanics IF IT AINT BROKE - DONT FIX IT!!! do a check firstly, is there a lot of travel on the brake lever??? do the brakes feel spongy??? are there signs of excess float in the discs?? any unusual noises?? If none of the above apply, I would leave it alone for the time being, Kawasaki recommend replacing seals every two years, But no one will do that. If in doubt, remove the pads and do a viual inspection with a torch, look for signs of pistons sticking, test by gently pulling the brake lever then seeing if it easy to push the pistons back in. if you were to do a stripdown, you may get away with removing the pistons, if they come out easy, cleaning everything, then carefully putting them back together. If you are going to do it make sure it really needs to be done as you be opening up a whole can of worms thanks jus

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Q. - Nichola MacLeod WROTE 23.07.2005

hi there can you help me i need a new pair of calipers for my zzr600e i have found a set on ebay but they are off a u.s zx600e 96 model would they be ok and fit straight on . hope you can help me ?

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi I have had a similar discussion with somebody else through my site It has been confirmed the calipers from a ZXR400 H1/H2 fit a zzr 600 - in the US manual I have it covers ZX6/ZZR600/ZZR500 - which generally means all the base models are identical - so in theory they should fit, However I havent tried it to confirm - check with the buyer see if they can confirm - or see if they might do a sale or return if they dont alternatively use my guide to rebuild your own calipers if they are just seized - the manuals recommend all seals be replaced every 2 years anyway - I have had good feedbackand others have been suscessfull following it thanks Jus

END CANS

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Sam Bryan wrote: 23.06.2006

Hi Justin,
First up I want to say top site, it's really cool of you to help out other ZZRians :)
I ran across your Viper race can review, and am really tempted by them, but I've got a givi wingrack on my machine and I'm a little unsure about the cans clearing the panniers.
Could you tell me if the viper cans mount any higher, or are much bigger than the stock ones?
Many thanks!
- Sam Bryan

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi sam
I dont have any standard cans to compare but they are not much bigger but are slightly longer than standard cans, which would make the back of the can sit about an inch higher - but a few inches farther out, you could always modify the hangers and there is a bit of give if you rotate the link pipes, so you can fine tune where they sit.
let me know how you get on if you give it a go so I can post the results on the site
check with the shop to see if they are sale or return if they don't fit.

GENERAL QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS

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Adam Collett wrote: 01.08.2006

Hi Jus,
Here's a pic of my lovely ZZR600, had it a couple of weeks now and just getting into the swing of things. Used to ride a Harley and this is very different, but GREAT FUN! :)
Nice site, well put together and lots of handy info - the 2nd gear problem hasn't shown up YET, but now I know what to do if it does :)

Cheers
Adam

A. - JUS WROTE

thanks for the e-mail adam
I will be posting your pics on the gallery this evening
I do agree, just a bit different from a harley
thanks for your comments about the site
jus

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Martin Walker wrote: 01.08.2006

this is a weird one. i bought a 1992 zzr600 which started life as a zzr400 import that has had a 600 lump put in before i got it. the bike was ok but restricted speed wise . the new ecu fixed that but still not 150mph. i found on ebay a pair of air intake tubes that go from just under the front indicator and i think they force air into the air box like the air ram system but not sure. i see how they fit on but not how they connect to the air box itself. as you have taken yours to bits is there some sort of flex pipe that goes to air box or am i barking up the wrong tree have a nice day from mar mar

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi Martin
as far as I know the zzr400 and other "import" models including USA models did not have ram air (something to do with emissions I think (yeah like the yanks really consider that when they are out and about in their 5.7 litre cars)
sounds like it has the 600 engine with 400 airbox, you might want to have a look at the airbox of a 600 for comparison, the ram air tubes simply enter into holes in either side of the airbox. This is something you could do yourself with a holesaw or similar tool.
the ram air intakes on my 600E is just below the headlight.
hope this helps
jus

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Q. - John Harris WROTE

Hi I just me a zzr 600 track bike I have very little info or knowledge on the bike, what parts fit the zzr and zx6 etc, Bike set up etc Any info would be great John Harris

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi John The zzr600 is not the most ideal trackbike - If you take track days serious I would advise something like a ZX7R, But if its just a bit of fun........... the zzr600's 99 Bhp means it has plenty of rev on power and when you can hit the 14,000 Rpm limit makes a fun bike. not many parts transferable between the zx6(r) and the zzr600 , in general there is little differnce, its all in the design that makes the zx6 a better sports bike where as the zzr is classed as a sports-tourer - except for maybe better suspension and a quicker motor, neither of which would fit a zzr due to the differances in frame and swing arm set-ups Firstly I would be tempted to go for a 2-3 tooth larger rear sprocket - you aint gonna use much over 120mph so having the road sprocket on would seem futile definately invest in heavy duty clutch plates and Springs - (cost approx £45.00) use a sticky tyre like bridgestone battlax BT010 If its a later ZZR it will have dampening adjusters at the front, you want it quite firm, likewise the back too, adjust the spring rate up too, preferably fit an OHLINS shock or similar with remote reservoir aftermarket cans help- I found with race cans - mid range improved and I got a few more revs out of it. Braided hoses all round are a must, crash bobins, and generally loose as much weight as you can, Ie a track day fairing and single seat- If it doesnt need it to run, take it off But most of all be careful and have fun

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Q. - Daniel Ames WROTE 04.01.2005

Hi, I have been without a bike for approx 10 years and decided to get back into it.
I was told that this a good size machine to get started again, as the frame is big and power is just right, it rides very well for a 12 year old bike.
As you can see from the picture it has been looked after with 19500 miles on the clock.
Please can you advise were I could get hold of a Haynes manual, as the zzr400's were grey imports would I be o.k in using a ZZr600 manual?
Your web site looks great.
Thanks for your help.
Daniel.

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi daniel
thanks very much for your e-mail and the picture (now in he gallery)
i have a genuine kawasaki USA manual for the zzr600 (ninja in the states) there is very little difference - apart from a few emission modifications and light modifications for the us market, I actually acquired mine through a friend who had no further use for it
you can try www.gearforbikes.com
they have the zzr600 manual in that covers the zzr600-zx600 from 1990 onwards
the only difference is the actual engine size, but the rest of the bike is identical. this may be a good starting point for you so the zzr600 manual should be ok for general maintenance and repairs - for particular engine specifications and settings you may need to consult a dealer and check.
hope you have fun on your zzr - (when the weather improves) mine is under cover for a few months - i rode it right up to mid december but it was ruining it, i'm adding a couple of extra's at the moment heated grips etc - may be putting a review on fitting them and effectiveness etc on the site as soon as i have done it
i will also be upgrading the site, possibly even adding a couple of new sections over the coming months - keep popping back to see how things are going
I will add your question and pic to the site also if thats ok
keep riding dude
cheers
jus

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Q. - MADANTONY WROTE 04.05.2004

hello justin its nice to see that someone has taken the time to set up a web site dedicated to a bike such as the zzr600 as opposed to the usual crotch rocket balls out superbikes ie R1. GSXR1000's etc.... can you give ne any advice on changing the rear shock on my zzr600e K-plated 93 model..

i've just bought it with 20k on the clock and no mot but it sailed through without a hiccup. not a bad deal for a grand!!

any other advice would be appreciated. i'll submit a photo to you as soon as i've fitted a few extra goodies. its been resprayed in a non kwak mettalic blue but stiil looks the nads cos its in the same colour just about as sete gibernau's moto GP honda

regards

Antony ( a new convert to the way of the Kwak)

A. - JUS WROTE

Hi antony
thanks for your mail
glad you like the zzr600, the engine is a sweet as a nut, very strong and should give you plenty of trouble free miles
the rear shock is fairly easy, But I did mine over 9 months ago
here goes from what I can remember off the top of my head:-
The rear on EN-V I found was a bit soft, especially with a passenger, I have struggled to find a stiffer aftermarket shocker i toyed with the idea of a ZX6 rear shock but this has the remote reservoir and would have got fouled up with the swing arm., so resorted in just replacing the old one with an decent original. replacing the rear shock can be done without the need for removing any paneling at all and the rear wheel and axle can stay in place too (not too sure if you may have to remove the side panels on the D model though to get at the top shock mount bolts
Firstly support the bike securely on the centre stands but on a nice thick 2" plank of wood (make sure you have it very secure) firstly undo the top shock mounts through the hole in the frame furthest and highest away from the engine (see pic attached) make sure you have piece of wood or something similar under the rear wheel holding it in its current position (If not the wheel and swing arm will drop, this also puts pressure on the top bolt as you try and remove it) I found two ratchets with long extensions on working one in each side of the frame worked well
carefully remove the top bolt fully
Carefully lower the rear wheel and swing arm, get a friend to help and you should now have easy access to the bottom mounts, if you can remove the multilink with the shock (this will allow you to clean and grease it nicely, but can be a bit tricky with the rear wheel on)
once the bolts are loose with a bit of a wiggle the rear shock can be fed downwards through the swing arm be careful not to let the swing arm drop as you may trap your hands!!.
you can also adjust the spring strength with the c locking rings (if you do not have a C spanner, you can wrap the reservoir section in thick cloth and clamp it in a vice, use plenty of WD40 if the rings re siezed, and using a BLUNT chisel or srewdriver and a rubber faced mallet work the rings free. clean the threads thoroughly after removal with a wire brush.
you can set the spring rate (how soft or hard the rear suspension is) to suit your riding preference, I have mine set quite high (ie the spring compressed with the c rings to give a harder ride, also because I am quite a large bloke at 17stone) the back end will stay firmer during cornering etc but may feel a little bouncy on a rough road
there are 3 rebound rate settings on a standard shock (if i remember rightly)
This controls how fast the shocker returns after the suspension has gone down, I have mine set to the highest level ( I think 3 ) to counter the high spring rate, so the bike does not feel too bouncy on rough roads) the rebound is adjusted with a little wheel on the bottom of the shock, you will see this when you remove it, you will need a small allen key to adjust it.
no one can tell you the best settings as everybody has a different riding style, choice of comfort.
a rough guide is to ask a friend to hold the bike steady at the front, then press down on the back with all your weight, judge A) how much effort it takes to push the back end down and B) how quickly or slowly the ride height returns to it's normal position.
I hope this helps

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david edwards WROTE 02.07.2004

Dear Sir I was introduced to your website by my wife - I understand she is a work colleague of yours. I have perused the many pages of information, pictures and jokes. I have found your site to be most useful and having a work colleague who is a motorcyclist, I shall certainly recommend he takes a look. However, I feel I must take you to task. In these enlightened days of political correctness where people actively campaign against discrimination, is it fair to single out the "Barry Boys?" It is not their fault that they had frontal lobotomies. It is not their fault that they were the victims of genetic mutation which removed the "good taste" gene. It is not their fault that they were dropped on their heads as babies.It is not their fault that they perceive these hideous creations as "babe magnets." It is not their fault that they think that 4" diameter cast iron downspout is really meant to be turned into exhausts. I now trust you will embrace the world of the "Barry Boy" and alter your website to their acknowledge their greater glory. Perhaps you might now start a project of your own - might I suggest a Vauxhall Nova 1.0L is a good starting point - dropped on it's arse, flared arches, bonnet scoop, front and rear spoilers, black glass and fitted with an 8 litre V8 Chevy with a 4 barrelled Hollie. Your faithfully, David Edwards. PS only joking Justin! Great website - kept Karen and I amused for ages - it's just had me laughing out loud! We especially like the cartoon about "shaving the beaver!"

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Q. - Bikerchris WROTE 02.07.2004

Hi Justin, Cracking site, well done! Background contrasts a bit with the text, but who cares - it's the content that counts! I just typed in www.ZZR600.co.uk assuming there would be a site, and there was. Just looking for links really, a mate buggered his ZZR6 E5 via a head-on. He's fine, but the bike ain't, hence I'm looking for a front wheel. If you know of any going, please let me know. Keep up the good work! Chris Aylward Kent,UK

A. - JUS WROTE

hi chris thanks for your mail best bet for a front wheel is E.Bay - always loadsa zzr stuff on there www.ebay.co.uk there are a lot more parts now as it is biking season, a lot of breakers are now using e.bay a lot more - I am currently tracking a double bubble - hope your mate is ok, keep on with the zzr's they have been going since day one and will always outlast all the other ten a penny sportsbikes they fads change more than your underwear, this is just because they are a good all rounder at a resonable price and can still keep up with the big boys, my mate has a 2 year old YZF R6 and it spends more time being fixed than he does riding it, cost him a fortune so far!!! cheers Jus
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