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Chez Cesarine Holiday Diary


DAY 10: Monday 7th August

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The day's itinerary focussed on the Ile de Bréhat. But the day's touring prospects were soon cast into doubt. The weather was wet and visiting the Ile de Bréhat is an outdoor event. Half an hour was spent sitting in the car park watching the rain trickle down the steamed-up windows wondering if it was worthwhile paying a fiver to get the ferry to the island just to be soaked to the bone. I made reference to the Michelin travel guide. It said that the island enjoyed an unusual, almost semi-tropical micro-climate benefiting from similar warm air currents to the Scillies and having very low rainfall averages. Not surprisingly, no-one was willing to entertain this description in the face of what they could see with their own eyes; it was pissing down! Anyway, in Dunkirk spirit, and having garnered waterproofs, umbrellas and hats from the cars it was decided to take a risk and pray that the weather would improve. Dressing for the battle with the elements meant Nige was besporting a rather tilty tweed cap that I thought looked quite "grousemoor" in its aspect, but one member of the entourage remarked bluntly that he looked like a ferret fancier.

Boarded small ferry and started a very choppy crossing. Henri retained his composure on this occasion; the crossing only taking about ten minutes. The first thing that was apparent about the Ile de Bréhat is that it is too small for cars to be used. The principal mode of transport is light tractor which pull a variety of different trailers around the four kilometre-long island ranging from sewage tanks to plush upholstered taxis carriages which were very expensive but did offer a tour of the island in complete comfort. We had been told that it was possible to hire bicycles to travel round on so we sent Henri and Andrew to do some market research. At ten quid a day these were just ordinarily expensive. So we resorted to Plan C - shank's pony. At least the rain was clearing. Downside though was the bizarre reappearance of Otto and Wilhelm making their ashore from the other ferry. Small place this Cote d'Amour.

After wandering around the gift shops for a while we took our maps in hand and started our exploration of this intriguing little island. Nigel was quickly setting a gruelling pace as we headed off down a maze of narrow lanes and alleyways. It was fast approaching noon and there were calls aplenty to suspend the route march in favour of lunch. Certainly it made sense to lighten the weight of the chill boxes several of us were carrying by eating their contents. It was therefore, decided to find an appropriate spot to picnic. Nige seemed to be familiarising himself with the map so we placed our faith in him to lead us to a clean, quiet spot on the island suitable for eating lunch. Placing our faith in Nige's sense of direction we all trailed behind him compliantly. It was difficult to see much of where you were heading as most of the lanes were surrounded by high walls or hedges. However, a less than keen sense of smell was all it took to establish that the place we had arrived at was in fact the island's sewage works. Nige was batting under pressure to fend off the hostility being voiced about from the unsuitability of this venue as a picnic site. Though the next location was hardly any more suitable as we rounded the next corner and walked into the local graveyard.

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