WELCOME TO THE SNAKE PIT

have been keeping Reptiles (mostly snakes) for about twenty years now and have managed to breed a number of Reptiles including the Radiated Ratsnake (Elaphe radiata) and the common Cornsnake (Elaphe guttata), out of twenty-five eggs twenty hatched successfully. Since this the pair of Cornsnakes and my Elaphe readiata female after the male died have been sold to make room for some more friends.

This page is made up of care sheets for the various reptiles that I have or have kept in the past and is still under construction.

Boiga cyanea

Distribution:

Boiga cyanea has a very large distribution, It can be found from Northern India all the way to China where it can be found in Kambodscha, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and in parts of the Malay Peninsula.

Habitat:

Boiga cyanea occurs in many different habitats, found both at sea level and all the way up into the highlands up to 2100m. It is almost completely arboreal and can be found in small low shrubs, as well as the much taller trees. They are frequently found in close proximity to water and often in or around planted fields. Their coloration gives them excellent camouflage making them very difficult to find. These beautiful snakes are nocturnal hunters and spend most of the daylight hours curled up in a tree hole or entwined on branches or in the forks of tree branches. When active at night they are extremely fast and eagerly hunt down small lizards, small birds and possible small rodents.

Description:

Boiga cyanea reaches 90-150cm when adult, though specimens of 2m are not unknown. Its adult coloration is a beautiful green with a bluish cast to it. The belly is white to a light yellow. The eyes are a blue turquoise with catlike elliptical (vertical) pupils. Hence the common name of "Green Headed Blue Eyed Catsnake". Juveniles are totally different the body from the neck to the tail is red-brown, The head is emerald green, the lips edged yellow, the inside of the mouth is black The eyes are large and seem to stick out at the side of the head and the brightest blue. It takes them from 8-14 months to go from the juvenile colouring to the adult going through greyish-red body coloration.

Poison:

The poison of Boiga cyanea resembles that of other Boigas, Though it is usually much weaker than say that of the better known Boiga dendrophila. A bite from Boiga cyanea is normally of no problem to adult humans and is no worse then a bee or wasp sting. It can be dangerous if the person bitten has an allergic reaction to the bite. Boiga cyanea has very small teeth that are right in the back of the throat that you would not normally come into contact with.

Husbandry

Boiga cyanea does best in as natural as possible vivarium. This should have plenty of branches for climbing with some hiding places; I find two or three tennis balls with a 2" hole placed around the vivarium works well. They require a temperature of 26-32°C with a nightly drop to 22-24°C. In their natural habitat they are used to a reasonably high humidity so the Vivarium should be in the 60-90% humidity. I have found that this Boiga loves being sprayed with lukewarm water at night when they are active and will drink the water droplets from the walls or plants in the vivarium. I always keep a bowl of water on a heat mat, which keeps the humidity high. I have also noticed the Boiga bathing and drinking from this bowl.

Feeding:

Boiga cyanea naturally feeds on frogs, toads, smaller rodents and also on small birds. In the vivarium it is easier to feed them on small mice. Hatchlings will take pinkey mice though they may have to be assisted by teasing them with the pinkies and making them snap at them. I have had little problem in getting them to feed, though I have found it better to feed in the evenings by hiding the defrost mouse in the branches for them to hunt.

Breeding:

A male and female of as near the same size is required, as they are known to be cannibalistic. Also a laying box of moist peat vermiculite or moss is needed for the female to lay her eggs. Eggs are laid approximatly 42-50 days after maiting and lay 7-14 eggs. The eggs measure 40mm x 25mm when laid. The eggs hatch out in approximatly 85 days at 28°C.

Characteristics

I have found these snakes to be very calm animals though I have had mine since they were hatchlings. I have also heard that they can be very aggressive snakes and will go into attack mode at the drop of a hat. I free handle my snakes as they are so calm have never shown any aggressiveness even when I have lifted them out of the vivarium and did not notice the milky eyes as they were getting ready to shed.

ELAPHE RADIATA

COMMON NAMES

Radiated Ratsnake, Copperhead Racer.

DISTRIBUTION

E.radiata has a large distribution over S.E. Asia, Indonesia, including Borneo, Malaysia North to Nepal and much of Southern China.

SIZE

Generally up to 60" though they can grow a little larger (1.7 m)

SUBCAUDAL COUNT: 2 - 108

Husbandry

These are large and very active snakes and so require a large vivarium 4' x 18 x 18 for a adult pair is adequate. There should be some branches as they enjoy climbing. The substrate can be any of the normal substrates that is used for reptiles Newspaper, Corn cob, Bark chips etc. it is all a matter of aesthetics. A heat mat and a ceramic infrared heater should be placed a one end of the vivarium and connected to a thermostat. This will give a thermal gradient within the vivarium so that the snakes can move from one area to another so as to adjust their temperature. A large water dish can be placed partially over the heat mat area this will help give a humidity of 60 - 80% which E. radiata requires to stay healthy. A temperature range of 75 - 88°F (24-31°C) With a drop at night to the lower end 75°F (24°C).

Breeding

Elaphe radiata are sexually mature after 18 months.

HATCHLINGS

The young snakes are quite large 11-12" keep them in small clear plastic sandwich boxes with some small holes in the ends, a piece of paper towelling is best for a substrate and a small container of water and leave until their first shed at this time they will be living off the absorbed yolk. After their first shed pinkie mice can be offered, they are usually taken greedily. They should be fed on pinkie mice twice a week till they are large enough to take fuzzy mice then weekly feeding can take place but I prefer to continue feeding twice weekly as these are very active and fast snakes.

Eryx miliaris (E. nogairum)

COMMON NAMES

Russian Sand Boa, Black Sand Boa, Dwarf Sand Boa, Central Asian Sand Boa, Mountain Sand Boa.

Distribution

Eryx miliaris miliaris are distributed mainly in the deserts of Central Asia. Their range is from the Southern part of Russia along the northern shores of the Caspian Sea, East through the Central Asian deserts of Kazakstan and Turkmenistan, South into Iran and east towards the deserts of Western China and Mongolia. The full extent of its range is somewhat difficult to ascertain as it occurs in countries that are rarely travelled by western scientists . Eryx miliaris miliaris is easily confused with the Tarter sand boa (E. tartaricus) over a lot of its range.

SIZE

Generally Adult females do not normally exceed two feet in length and the males rarely larger than eighteen inches.

Husbandry

The care of E.miliaris miliaris is quite straightforward and is similar to other Sand Boas. I prefer to use Cage bird sand as a substrate to a depth of 2" (50mm) as they do seem to enjoy digging around in the sand. A piece of flat rock or cork bark to help with the shed is advised. A hid box was totally ignored when sand was used. Others have used various substrates with equal success including aspen, wood chips, corn cob. Newspaper has also been used successfully but here a hide box was found to be used by the sand boa's. When using sand as a substrate I feed outside of the vivarium in a separate container to minimise compaction. Because of their small size a modest vivarium is all that is needed. A temperature of up to 90°F (32°C) and a night temperature of 75°F(24°C) creating a temperature gradient. Feeding is not a problem as they will take anything up to adult mice when adult. The young are small and may look unable to take pinkie mice but they can manage them. E. Feeding is not a problem as they will take anything up to adult mice when adult. The young are small and may look unable to take pinkie mice but they can manage them. The name nogaiorum refers to the Nogai Steppe of Russia. They are known from the sandy steppes along the NW side of the Caspian Sea. E. miliaris in captivity is extremely docile and easy feeders which makes them ideal pets. Just one cautionary note, they strike sideways and are not particularly accurate so use long feeding tongues.

Brumation

E. miliaris requires a winter rest of three months November - January I cool them down to 50°F (10°C) Being Asiatic they will probably go down even lower. The males seem to be reluctant feeders for a couple of months after brumation while looking for a mate. But usually start eating voraciously again after the breeding season (Early Spring).

BREEDING

E. miliaris miliaris has only been bred in small numbers due to the scarcity of animals. The breeding habits etc. seem to be the same as for other Eryx species. When kept in sand the courtship and copulation tends to take place beneath the sand. The tails are elevated above the sand during actual intromission. Gestation period is not known for certain but probably ranges from four to six months. A basking sight is recommended for gravid females, and gravid females will seek out temperatures in excess of 95°F. Number of young is not certain as records are scarce. Sexual maturity seems to be reached in three to four years in females and about three years in males. Most females breed biennially (McLain 1982).

Ref. Richard A.Ross & Gerald Marzec The Reproductive Husbandry of Pythons and Boas.

Solomon Islands Ground Boa (Candoia carinata paulsoni )

Origin or Range: Fiji and Solomon Islands and parts of New Guinea in the South Pacific

Habitat: Rainforests, marshes, and swamps. Semiarboreal to terrestrial.

CITES Appendix II

Description:

Has a very distinctive head, making them the most exotic and beautiful of the Boa family. Captive-bred Solomon Island Ground Boas are generally extremely docile, Though two of mine are initially very snappy but soon settle down. These beautiful snakes make very good pets. They are a nocturnal snake and so will generally be most active at night. These Ground Boas can have very striking coloration or patterning.

If the Solomon Island Boa is wild caught it is best to have them treated for parasites by a veterinary surgeon, as they are usually loaded with internal parasites. This is good practice with any wild caught reptile. It may also be difficult to get wild caught to eat, as they will be used to different prey items. Especially European mice as they have a different scent than rodents found in their natural environment. Solomon Island Ground Boas can grow to be 2 to 6 feet in length, and females get much larger than males. The body is usually slightly compressed and covered with keeled and smooth scales. Coloration is very varied, pink or orange tinted, even red brown and black. These boas also change colour slightly according to season, forming ring-like or zigzag pattern on the back and sides. The triangular head terminates in a straight snout edge. Males have rather large anal spurs which are usually absent in females.

In habitat they are often very aggressive. They are "viper mimics" defending themselves by coiling in viper fashion, hissing and striking at intruders. They are also "sympatric" (coexist) with various pythons and other species of Candoia without conflict by exploiting different habitats. (E.g. terrestrial in some and arboreal in others.) The hunt and capture their prey by biting the head or just behind it, and wrapping its powerful body around the prey, constricting with each exhale of the animals until airflow is cut off and the animal suffocates. The prey is swallowed whole and is helped through the mouth by a lower jaw that is not contiguous and can split apart at the median, jaw hinge ligaments that stretch wide, and teeth that face toward the back of the mouth which aids in "walking" the prey into the gullet. As with all Boas, they are considered a primitive snake with less complex and defined internal organs. The boas of the South Seas are unique in the Boidae family and appear to be most closely related to the Caribbean and Rainbow boas of the genus Epicrates.

Solomon Island Ground Boas are native to the South Pacific Solomon Islands but are also found off the shore of Papua New Guinea and eastern Indonesian islands. They love rainforests and humid wetlands but also occur near human-inhabited areas or dryer savannahs so long as there are lots of rodents nearby.

Care:

Solomon Island Ground Boa needs to be kept at a constant temperature of about 80- 82 degrees Fahrenheit, with a humidity level of about 50-80%. Keep them in a vivarium that allows three quarters of a square foot of cage for each foot in boa length. Newspaper, wallpaper or Beach wood Chipping's make good substrate, and they will also need some sturdy branches, as they like to climb in spite of their name. It is very important to make that they also have a large bowl of water for soaking as well as for drinking. They love to soak and defecate in the bowl as well so clean the bowl daily.

Feeding:

In the wild these Boas feed on Rodents small birds, frogs and lizards so wild caught may not take our mice or ratpups straight off. Day old Chicks are usually taken so can be used to scent the mice. Once the Boas are feeding they are very aggressive feeders. Hatchlings would normally feed on small lizards, tadpoles and small tree frogs and so can be difficult to get them onto pinkie mice. Scenting with a lizard can work though I have found that teasing them with a pinkie so they strike at them. Once they grab the pinkie holding them upside down so the head is pointing down they start to swallow. It takes patience and practice but usually works. Once the snake has taken the pinkie past the shoulders gently and slowly lay them down till they have finished. Sometime you might have to wait for them to eat as they can regurgitate the pinkie when you put them down or there is any sudden movement.

Breeding:

These ground Boas are often difficult to breed, possibly because this species may contain several genetically incompatible subspecies, which have not yet been officially classified. Keep them at 80 degrees in the day but drop the nighttime temperature to 70 degrees for six to eight week. When you want them to breed, drop the temperature from November to December and then in January introduce your breeding pairs to each other. Usually two females to several males' works best. Some Solomon Island Ground Boa males will mate with all the females; others will choose only one with which to copulate. For your snake's health, only breed your female Solomon Island Ground Boas once every two years. Large Solomon Island Ground Boas will give birth to up to 50 neonates! The neonates are often difficult feeders but do need to eat every seven to ten days. If they will not accept pinkie mice try scenting this food with tree frogs. If the neonate Solomon Island Ground Boas persist in stubbornness, allow them to eat tree frogs for five or six meals and then do not feed them for about three weeks. Reintroduce the scented pinkies; at this point the neonate will be extremely hungry and more likely to accept it.

Pogona henrylawsoni the Rankins Dragon

Synonymous names:

Pogona brevis, Pogona rankini.

Common Names:

Rankins Dragon, Black soil bearded Dragon, Plains Dragon.

Distribution:

The species is found on black soil plains of inland Queensland, although Richard Wells has stated that they also occur in nearby parts of the Northern Territory of like habitat.

Size:

They grow to about 10" though sometimes a little larger.

Temperament:

Generally they are very inquisitive and friendly each with its own personality and extremely sociable in the wild, and so can be kept in groups. They have less acute angles on the facial and spinal structure than P.vitticeps.

Housing:

Because they are so sociable they can be kept in small groups, though sometimes a bad apple will turn up and needs to be kept on its own, though this is rare.

A large glass aquarium or vivarium is best for these lizards. The minimum size for a pair of Rankins a 30-36 Inch Aquarium or Vivarium will do nicely. Obviously the more animals you keep together the more space they will need. You will need some Rocks, Branches or cork bark for them to bask on and climb on.

Substrate can be peat and sand equal parts and packed down, as they love digging in it, I use Bran, which is easily bought from petshop outlets and is very cheap. It is easy to spot clean and does not cause compaction if ingested.

Rankins need full spectrum lighting. A light that gives out the correct UVA/UVB radiation is essential for the Calcium metabolism. What you need are Fluorescent Tubes with a minimum 7% UVB. Like ESU Desert tubes 7%.

This lizard has a relatively small 'beard' and is the only dwarf species from the Northeast inland of Australia. Its relationship to other Pogona is not certain

Do not be tempted to use a HOTROCK these get too hot and WILL CAUSE VERY BAD BURNS to the animals.

Feeding & Watering:

Rankins need more insects than other Beardies and should be fed Crickets, Grasshoppers, Locusts, Waxworms and Mealworms for Maximum health. It is an old wives tale that MealWorms cause compaction or even that they burrow out of the young. Once the mealworm is in the gut and stomach the gastric juices will kill them immediately. I have been feeding mealworms for the last five years now to both youngsters and adults as part of a mixed varied diet.

Rankins are omnivores and so need some vegetable matter as well. Give as big a variety as possible and not just Iceberg lettuce as there is hardly any goodness in it. Include Greens various lettuce types like Romaine, Red Lettuce, Rocket, Water Cress, Turnip tops (greens) Carrot, Parsnip, Sweet potato, Squash, Chinese cabbage, Dandelions the roots (washed) leaves and the flowers, Rose flowers, nasturtium flowers, Bramble leaves are a favourite, Daylily flowers. Do not experiment with flowers, as some are poisonous only use those that you know are safe.

The feeder insects should also be fed well and not forgotten. Orange slices green vegetables; apple cores and dust these with Calcium powder as well. They also need some water, a small pot with a piece of sponge tightly fitted in and kept wet will keep your crickets watered without them drowning.

The feeder insects should also be fed well and not forgotten. Orange slices green vegetables; apple cores and dust these with Calcium powder as well. They also need some water, a small pot with a piece of sponge tightly fitted in and kept wet will keep your crickets watered without them drowning.

Fresh water should be made available to your Rankins daily. As generally they love the water and swimming. Give them a reasonable sized water container no deeper than up to their necks as I have often found them asleep in the bowls. Because of this the water soon becomes dirty and contaminated so frequent water changes are necessary. They also love being spayed with water and will drink the water dripping from their nose. These are the observations that I personally have made regarding water. It could be that mine react differently to yours, as some may not like water or being sprayed.

Click on the snake for some pictures