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This page hopes to answer some of the answers you may have as a newcomer to cycling.  I would stress though that some of these are my personal thoughts and not necessarily those of other club members or our commercial backers.  The comments do not seek to recommend or criticize any particular supplier or shop.  Click on the header below to see a particular topic or read the whole.

 

WHAT SORT OF BIKE SHOULD I BUY  -  A lot depends on what you are going to use it for.  A pure road or "racing" bike is only really suitable if you are going to ride seriously and predominantly on the road as it becomes a little impractical for off road riding.  The utility or "sit up and beg" tends to be very heavy and only suitable for short journeys to the shops.  Again, BMX or stunt bikes are very specialised and designed only for their specific use.  Mountain bikes now come in all shapes and sizes with suspension or not.  They are probably the most versatile of the bikes but again, what do you intend to use it for.  A mountain bike is hard work on a long distance on the road and this is why most serious cyclists have more than one bike. Full suspension looks good but, whilst it is excellent when descending fast on rough ground, the suspension does take away some of the pedalling power when used on the road or  uphill.  It is also another thing to go wrong.  On the plus side it does take the jarring out of the handlebars when descending so front suspension is worth considering.   If you intend to use the bike for a range of uses, it is worth looking at the "hybrid" bike which seeks to combine the best of both worlds with a look somewhere between the Mountain Bike and the conventional bike but it is debateable whether it would be up to serious off road riding over difficult terrain.

I would always suggest visiting your local bike shop (and I don't mean part of a sports goods shop where the range will be limited) and talking to the owner about your ideas and he should be able to show you a range of different styles and recommend one that suits you.

 

WHERE SHOULD I BUY - This depends on how good your repair skills are as although the basic cycle is fairly simple, many now have some fairly complex arrangements.  With this in mind, always check on what after sales service is available and try to assess how good their mechanics seem to be.  I would not recommend mail order purchase as it is often difficult to obtain any after sales service.  Don't be surprised if, having lost the sale of a cycle, the local cycle dealer is reluctant to handle the repair to a cycle bought by mail order or Internet.  I am aware of a cycle which lay for up to 6 months in the repair shop of a non-specialist supplier before the owner, in desperation, bought another cycle from a recognised dealer in order to get the first one repaired.

 

WHAT SHOULD I PAY -    Don't be tempted by cheap buys - the saying "you get what you pay for" is particularly relevant.  Be wary of any cycle costing less than £120 as the quality will probably be inferior and the bike very heavy.  It may be that when buying the first bike you don't want to spend too much in case cycling is not for you.  Fair enough - but bear in mind these comments and those regarding bike repair. Nothing puts people off cycling more than hard work associated with a heavy bike with the wrong gearing.  On the other hand, don't pay the earth for a "bells and whistles" machine unless you are sure it isn't going to rot in the shed after a few weeks.

 

GEARS OR NOT - Almost certainly yes - Unless you are only going to ride on a flat road you will very soon discover that gears are essential. Even children's bikes are often fitted with a number of gears.  The number of gears on an average bike lies between 18 and 24 calculated by the number of rings at the front multiplied by the number of cogs at the back.  The difference is not crucial as many of the gears actually overlap.  However, having got the gears learn how to use them.  This is a skill we teach as part of our rides.  I see many newcomers who only use top and bottom gears and none of the ones in between.  Both can be very tiring as spinning the gears round and getting nowhere is as hard work as riding a higher gear more slowly.  Experienced riders find an ideal "cadence" which is the speed of pedalling which is comfortable over a long distance and then use the gears to achieve this up and down hill.  There is no doubt that correct use of the gears makes cycling much easier.

 

WHAT SIZE BIKE -  Mountain bikes in particular can cover a wide variation in height due to the long seat post holding the saddle.  But all bikes are built to the same "geometry" which means that all the tube lengths are relative to each other so a bigger frame means that all the tubes increase proportionately in length.  Try different frame sizes - mountain bikes tend to have smaller frame sizes than the equivalent conventional cycle.  Particularly with children, be careful of the dealer who says "he'll grow into it" as this can often cover the fact that they only have one cycle available.  Put the saddle at a reasonable height and sit on the bike.  It should feel comfortable, not too cramped and not too stretched.  The temptation is to ride the cycle in too low a position in order to be able to put your feet down easily.  Fine if your starting cycling but if you continue in this position you will soon find yourself with a sore back.   The correct position should be to place the pedal at its lowest position and then put your heel on the pedal.  The leg should just be slightly bent in this position.  From the full "foot down" position increase the saddle height little by little until you reach the optimum position.  Be careful though - there is a mark on the seat post showing the highest limit to which the saddle should be raised.  Do not exceed this as this would be dangerous.

 

TOECLIPS OR NOT - Not for the beginner.  You need to be able to get your feet down quickly.  As you get more experienced, you may feel that toeclips or the newer cleats which fasten the cycling shoe directly to the pedal make cycling more comfortable as you can increase the pedal power by pulling up on one pedal at the same time as pushing down with the other.  If you decide not to use toeclips, use trainers or shoes with a good grip on the sole or your feet could slip off the pedals in wet weather.

 

TOOLS - What are the basics and how to use them.  First you need a pump with the right fitting to match the valve on the tyre - there are two types.  A spare inner tube of the same size as the wheel will save you mending a puncture in the rain.  Tyre levers (3) and a puncture outfit complete this part.  If you come with the club, almost certainly we will suffer a puncture and we can show you how to fix it.  Screwdrivers with the right ends to fit the bits of the bike and allen keys are useful.  Some useful multi-kits are available which include all these bits in one handy holder.  If you suffer a misfortune beyond a simple repair, you can either amass specialist tools and do it yourself or leave it to the experts dependent on your skill.  Lastly, if you are some way from home, a mobile phone and someone at the other end to come out and get you can be very useful.

 

CLOTHING - Much is spoken about what to wear.  Basically, something comfortable is essential.  You can dress in lycra or baggy shorts - both are suitable dependent on the ride.  Lycra shorts or bib shorts normally have a chamois insert where you sit which does make long rides more comfortable.  For shorter rides, they are not essential.  Don't ride long distances though in jeans as they are not flexible and can chafe badly.  Make sure trouser bottoms are either tight or are held close to the leg by trouser clips or toe straps. Crashing because your trousers snag on the chainwheel is not a pleasant experience. Wear trainers or special cycling shoes.  On the top half, more lighter layers are better than a few heavier ones.  A waterproof , preferably breathable, is essential for rainy days.  Wear cycling mitts, and gloves in cold weather,  as, not only do they pad the hands from the road vibrations, but they save your hands should you crash.  Finally the vexed question of crash helmets.  The cycling world is divided on this one but I would certainly recommend one if riding off-road.  Buy a good quality one and wear it properly.  If it is damaged in an accident, replace it as it loses its effectiveness.

 

YOUR FIRST RIDE - Right we are now ready for our first ride.  I would suggest finding a quiet off-road leisure trail so that you do not need to worry about traffic.  Don't overdo the distance at first - just increase it a little each time and don't worry if you are stiff next day.  The more you ride the easier it will come.  Most importantly don't get carried away.  I have seen young families setting off in late afternoon on the Tissington Trail not realising they are going downhill and could face 12 miles of steady climbing on the way back.

 

OR WHY NOT COME OUT WITH US AND LEARN THE EASY WAY

Jim Court