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Introduction

Duprasi, also known as Pachyuromys duprasis to experts, Abu Lya (to many in Egypt, Libya, Tunisia and Algeria) and Fat-Tailed Gerbils to many others, can be found in the wild in the North Sahara Desert as well as areas of Egypt, Libya, Tunisia and Algeria. Other species of rodent living in the same habitat include Jerboas, Sundervall’s jirds and Pallid gerbils. Their habitat consists of vegetated sandy desert and bush-filled gravel plains. In the wild they can often be found in small colonies and have been known to dig tunnels up to 1 metre deep. Their home consists of an underground tunnel up to 8’ long (with food and sleeping chambers).

Duprasi have a body length of between 90-121mm and a tail length of 45-65mm. The fur is long, thick and fluffy (with a similar texture to that of a Chinchilla). The natural colour for a Duprasi is beige/cinnamon but there is a grey mutation (possibly a subspecies called P. duprasis natronesis) and it is the latter that is more widely known in the UK. The fur has dark roots with lighter tips and the under-parts are white. The tail is almost hairless, pink and club-like and lacks a brush. Similarly to a camel’s hump, the Duprasi stores fat and water in its tail and so ideally the tail should be even, well rounded and supple. The head is a somewhat ‘odd’ shape appearing almost walnut shaped and features a snout-like nose. The ears are quite large and lie flat against the head. The eyes are somewhat large, dark and bulging.

Feeding

Duprasi should be fed a normal gerbil/rodent mix ensuring that plenty of fresh water is available (they seem to drink more than Mongolians), preferably in a bottle because bowls tend to get buried quickly! The shape of the nose indicates that in the wild, Duprasi are in fact insectivorous – they often eat insects as well as leaves, seeds and roots. In some areas it has been seen that even snails are eaten (though this hasn’t been proved). In captivity it can be seen that they like to eat crickets, mealworms – and even moths and beetles in some cases – these can be given periodically as treats. Dry cat food also substitutes as a source of protein. In addition to this, the diet should be supplemented with fresh fruit and vegetables- particular favourites include Savoy cabbage, cucumber, apple and carrot. One could put the food in a bowl, but more often than not, I have found the food strewn around the tank and the bowl over-turned in the corner!   

Housing

Duprasi can be kept in the same sized tanks/terrariums as Mongolian gerbils (i.e. anything over 24”) but when nursing, the females is more likely to become stressed in a smaller tank and so I would advise over 30” for a breeding pair/ trio. They could be kept in a large wire hamster cage but as they like to dig, this could prove messy!

I have successfully kept a trio of Duprasi together, but generally I would not advise any more than a pair to be kept together (they can of course go on their own-which they seem to prefer- or possibly even with other species *see ‘Cohabiting Species’*) as fights will often occur. Duprasi like to dig and so a substantial layer of substrate should be provided. Tunnels can be simulated using cardboard tubes (preferably carpet-roll tubes as they are thicker and so more resistant to chewing!) and ceramic pipes. Duprasi often make use of a nesting box; large glass jars, bird-nesting boxes and old ceramic flowerpots are all suitable ‘houses’. Like Mongolians, they like chewing and so cardboard boxes, toilet-roll tubes and plastic does not last for long! Hay and tissue paper should be provided as bedding but don’t be surprised to see this mixed into the substrate within a few hours! (They do this to add strength and support to their tunnels). A sand bath is sometimes appreciated (especially during breeding when the rodent is under extra stress) but should be placed on a brick (or something similar) out of the substrate to prevent it being buried! It has been suggested that Duprasi appreciate a wheel, though I myself have never tried one with them.

Behaviour

Although many have said that Duprasi are very docile and friendly rodents, I can only say this of their young. I find them to be quite antisocial towards each other, and always willing to nip me when handled! More often than not, their tails are scarred with bite marks and occasionally a poor unfortunate gets its tail bitten off- usually it is the male or younger/weaker female who receives this treatment from the alpha female who is a definite boss-lady!

The main ‘hobbies’ of a Duprasi are digging, sleeping and eating - indeed they spend about 80% of their time underground in tunnels or in their nest box, coming out for short periods during the day and night (they are diurnal). They are most active at dusk.

Some Duprasi can be seen rubbing their stomachs on the bottom of the tank. This is due to the positioning of the scent gland- they are merely marking their territory! They do however lack a noticeable odour due to their minimal production of urine.

Duprasi do not seem to suffer from any particular common ailment and can live between 2-5 years in captivity.

Breeding

Often, Duprasi participate in a mating ritual whereby both the male and female stand on hind legs, squeak and ‘wrestle’. The female may become aggressive if the male is too ‘pushy’. Once mating has occurred, the male can be removed from the tank if preferred (females are even more aggressive when pregnant or nursing). If you are finding it difficult to breed your pair, try putting them in a smaller, unfurnished tank until mating occurs- this appears to work!

Gestation lasts between 19-24 days and the litter size will be between 2-7. Weaning occurs within 3-4 weeks and breeding is continuous throughout the year.

Duprasi occasionally have a cannibalistic tendency (when the mothers eat their young) but this is often caused by stress and the likelihood of occurrences will be reduced if a larger tank is provided.