Challenge Report - or 'Tour d'Angleterre' as we now like to call it..

Summary - for those who understandably don't have the stamina to read the whole thing!..

The deepest meteorological low seen in June for many years settled over the country for the week of my challenge. This brought unsettled weather (that'll be rain to you and I) and a strong gusty wind from the north west moving round to the west. Having recently had a couple of weeks of fine summer weather, the change was all the more of a shock. By far the worst aspect was the wind. The idea of cycling into the prevailing wind hadn't really bothered me before the event, figuring on some balmy summer weather. However, the wind proved to be the most taxing part of the challenge on top, obviously, of the daily mileage and regular doses of rain.

I had planned each day on the same basis: up early and ride until the early afternoon, then set up camp and forage for food. This was based around the idea that it would be 'cooler' at that time of day, and if any unexpected events occurred I would have time to sort them and still be able to overnight at the same destination. It is also in character to crack on and get to where I am going without stopping/faffing about! This aim was achieved every day. Up at about 6.15am and off at around 7am, apart from the last day when I needed to get to Land's End and back to Penzance for my train. That meant I had to get up at 5.15am and off by 6am....

so to the details and some very uninspirational pictures - I only stopped once a day for my 'elevensies' banana, so that's where the photos were taken, apart from the campsites. Besides, the routes were not designed around attractive scenery, just the most direct route between start and finish! .....

Mon 21 June    the journey oop north..

A long journey by train from Leighton Buzzard up to Berwick. 9am - 5pm. The weather was patchy all the way north, with heavy showers in between spells of hot sun. Change at Newcastle where it bucketed down. Arrival in Berwick to a lovely sunny evening. Next day is the trip back the other way, so hopefully the poor weather over Newcastle will have moved on by then. Fish and Chips in town before cycling a couple of miles up to the border (see pic) and then back 1/4 mile to the campsite at Marshall Meadows. Booked in by old dear as 'gentleman' and tent, for £2.25! Pretty basic facilities but no need for showers/drying room etc, so ok for the first night. Narrow site along the cliff edge. Bit disconcerting when viewed from along the coast where you can see the huge chunks that have broken away and fallen into the sea. So set up camp not too near the edge, and had an early night in preparation for an early start. Ony then realized that 50yds inland ran the main east coast railway line, and that I was camped on the old railway line!.. Felt like the tent was pitched between the tracks at the trains rumbled past - fortunately not too much night traffic!

Tue 22 June    70 miles

Woke early (3.30am!). Dawn arrives early up there and it's pretty nippy. Dozed until 5.45. Packed and off by 6.30am. Clear but cool. Took off long sleeved Ronhill Coolmax top and waterproof at Wooler (8am). Through Morpeth, then some tricky navigating to Ponteland (north west of Newcastle) by about midday. Eventually found my way across the Tyne to Blaydon and up an incredibly steep hill (or bank as the locals like to call them) and down the other side to Derwent Valley Park, Rowlands Gill (see pic) by about 1pm. Arrived to lovely warm sun. Tent up/shower. Lunch courtesy of the chippy just across the road. Took a stroll into the village and discovered an Italian doing a happy hour all day Tuesday!! £4 for any pasta dish.. tea sorted. Back for afternoon snooze and rest aching shoulders. The rucsac is about 25lb including 2L carbo drink in the CamelBak pouch. Decided to remove the energy bars and roll them up with the tent carried on the bike rack. Tea at 6pm - arrived as the doors opened! Excellent value lasagne. Felt very under dressed in my only set of 'street' clothes.. Charity tee shirt, waterproof training trousers and trainers. Everyone else was dressed up 'smart casual'!.. ate/paid up/scarpered! 

Wed 23 June    70 miles

Wake at 4am, raining hard. Still raining at 6am. Get up at 6.30, still raining.. Having cunningly situated the tent fairly near the shower block, I am able to dash between the two getting washed and stashing things to pack. Having donned full wet weather gear (long sleeved thermal top, cycling T shirt, waterproof top, cycling shorts, thermal tights) I set off. Locals had advised that whichever way I went, I would encounter severe gradients, or 'banks'. The preferred route was the A road to Shotley bridge and then out to the A68. This appeared to require the ascent of only the one significant 'bank'.. However, coming across a turn to Medomsley and Consett, I couldn't resist the short cut.. Two minutes later, and sweating up a 1 in 3 in the pouring rain, I was wishing I'd ignored it.. Through Medomsley and round Consett and it was onto the A68. Folklore (campsite owner and wife) had it that it was 'banks' all the way to Tow Law, and from then on all downhill. Plenty of banks for sure, but the downhill bit can only have been judged traveling by car.. Onwards until the B6275, a lovely old bit of Roman road going due South to Scotch Corner. Weather brightening until finally the sun appears at Piercebridge (see pic) where I stop for my elevensies banana, and the removal of tights and waterproof. Having set off the weather then deteriorates. Down to Scotch Corner and the idea is to do a couple of junctions on the A1, then strike off across to Bedale/Masham and Ripon. All was going well on the A1 with a constant stream of artics draughting me along at good speed. Felt a bit vulnerable but gave up on the hard shoulder when dodging the debris became too difficult. It wasn't long before the huge black cloud ahead started to spill its contents. After 1/2 mile stopped in a layby and donned waterproof. The rain and spray was so intense once I got going that it became suicidal to continue so I got off at Catterick. Simple navigation via Hackforth and Crakehall and into Bedale. The rain subsided a little bit, and feeling I was on the last leg, I stopped for a mug of tea and a bun at a cafe in the high street. Back to work and the rain steadily increases until it's going at full tilt. By the time I get to Masham the roads are more like rivers and I'm completely drenched. Completely, apart from my feet, until I went through a rivulet of unknown depth. Turned out to be a good 4" meaning that the subsequent spray filled my trainers. Now I'm completely soaked. Finally into Ripon and the last couple of miles. Arrived 1.15pm, mountains of toast and coffee for lunch, bath and arrange wet clothes to dry. Brakes adjusted - the rear was catching on the rack so not giving max breaking - explains severe lack of brakes in wet - especially at a junction in the middle of Ripon when I had to dive round the front of a car because I couldn't stop behind it!.. didn't fancy coming down off the Pennines the next day with no brakes!! Great pasta meal for tea - and a real bed! 

Thur 24 June    65 miles

Just managed to get up at 6am. packed and off at 7am. Dense grey cloud and strong westerly wind. Wore two tops and waterproof and thermal tights all day. Hard work but good progress. Squally showers set in before Bradford and steadily got worse. Very strong NW wind. Brighouse/Huddersfield. 

 11.30 Holmfirth. Sugary tea and big cream scones at Sid's Cafe (Last of the Summer Wine - see pic). Set off to cross Holme Side ~1700ft ie over the northern tip of the Peak District. Started cycling in gale force winds and driving rain. Zigzagged up the side of the fell and turning into the wind, came to a dead halt. Walked up the rest of the way. Down the other side at speed and onto the main road, the A628, not much more than a well surface B road used by big artics to cross the Pennines. In extremely poor conditions I was glad to get off it. Crossed the valley over a dam and up B6105 to Windy Farm. Arrived 1.30ish completely soaked and getting quite cold. Lovely restaurant on site, but no showers! or anywhere to dry my clothes. No good. Owner recommended a site on the other side of the valley. Back a couple of miles, down a track, across another damn, up to the main road and turn left for 1/2mile. Followed instructions, the sandy 'Pennine Way mountain bike' track covering the bike in wet sand. Did about a mile on the main road before stopping at a pub to check I was on the right track. No. should have gone right at the main road but was advised that the campsite is a good one with drying room etc. However no nearer a place to eat than where I was. So stayed put and had a huge plate of pasta and apple pie and first pint of the week. The radiators had just broken in the pub so nothing to dry clothes on while I ate.. literally dripped on the floor for a couple of hours. 3pm back out into the rain for a couple of miles to Crowden campsite. Excellent facilities. Hung everything up in the drying room, put up the tent, hot shower and retreat into the tent out of the rain. Afternoon snooze. got a bit too cold and wet today, so it was a good job I had some food when I did! Still raining at 7pm, supposed to be better tomorrow.

Fri 25 June    75 miles

Slept badly - cold and no spare clothes to put on at night. Up at 6.30am. Cloudy with patches of blue. cold wind. Packed and off 7.30am. Hazel Grove/Macclesfield. Wind appeared to warm up a few degrees at Congleton. Removed waterproof and tights. Rest of day warmer wind and fluffy high clouds. Newcastle/Eccleshall - lovely flower displays all down the High Street, winner of 'blooming Britain' prize at some point - and they haven't lost it! Newport/Telford. Grim end to the day riding round Telford in the sun on the A442, hot and tired on a dual carriageway. The last 10 miles are always the hardest, and getting harder - still, marginally better than cold and wet on a bleak hillside! makes a change.. 

Arrived 1.30 at excellent campsite (Severn Gorge Park) very close to Ironbridge with a Hungry Horse eatery just around the corner! Site owners halved the £10 pitch fee for charity - only fair given the amount of space the tent takes up (see picture!). Shower (why can you never get them quite hot enough?) then HH lunch at 3pm - huge steak and chips for £7. Met family doing LE to JOG at their own pace - 40 miles one day, 70 miles the next, with huge camper van driven by Mrs in support. Seems a bit of a cheat but they needed it. The son had just broken a spoke on his new £300 bike! Nice warm afternoon so everything dry ready for tomorrow. Massive lasagne (another £7) and pint for tea at Hungry Horse at 7pm. 

Sat 26 June    78 miles

Woke 5ish. High cloud, completely overcast. Up at 6am, packed and off at 7am. Easy going but started to spit then drizzle early. Kidderminster/Stourport. Met family at 10ish at Holt Heath. By then it was raining pretty steadily. Sweet tea and sandwiches for elevensies. Replenished clean sock supply, more energy bars for elevensies, and a new set of toe clips. I'd lost a bolt out of one of them and they were pretty old and tired anyway. Children complain that they weren't allowed a trampoline or puppy like the friends they were staying with, and argued over a stuffed toy - seems like I'd never been away! Weather brightens briefly before Gloucester, then gets worse. Frampton (the target for the night) was a good deal further from Gloucester than I'd thought - the last hour always seems interminable, more so when it's wet and cold. Arrived at planned destination (The Bell pub on the village green) to find it under new ownership and shut for refurbishment! Ask at another pub in the village whether there was anywhere else I could stay. Now 2pm and I'm cold and very wet. Recommended a B&B down the road. They were completely booked up as there was a wedding in the village! Back to the pub. The other options were a large hotel on the main road (£70/night) which I wasn't quite desparate enough to spend, or a Travelodge on the motorway. This meant 2 miles back to the main road, then another couple across country to the motorway. So back out into the rain and splash through the country roads to the M5. Got the last room in the Stonehouse Travelodge! All radiators on max, and hung up all wet clothes and shoes. They even allowed the bike in the room. Very late lunch at 3pm at the Little Chef next door. Trainers still like wellies filled with water! Olympic breakfast raises spirits! Tea at 7pm and it's back to Little Chef. Manager gives me £10 for the charity - nice bloke. Radiators on max all night and windows open with clothes on coat hangers taped to handles and light pulls! So glad of the 'quality' accomodation was I that I took a picture of the Travelodge before I set off next morning, but I can't bring myself to put such a dull picture in here.. Seemed like pure luxury at the time - it's all relative!!

Sun 27 June    71 miles

Trainers just about dry by morning. Up 6.15am, packed and off 7.05am as usual. First day started in only shorts and tee shirt! The cool breeze from the west made it only border line warm. Good progress to Bristol, deserted at 9am on a Sunday morning. Successfully navigated the city centre (which my friends from the previous day had struggled with, and with their GPS equipment!) to emerge onto the Somerset levels. Very flat day thereafter! Weather improves with fluffy high clouds but still a fresh westerly wind. Two bananas at Bridgewater Safeway for lunch. No distances on road signs in Somerset so came on Taunton unexpectedly! Lovely campsite just outside Thornfalcon 4 miles to the east of Taunton. Tent up/shower/change and stroll to the local (The Nags Head - see pic) at the end of the lane for lunch. Good food/beer. Two cheese/bacon baguettes for lunch. Return and pay up at owners lovely thatched cottage (see another pic!) - obviously a profitable business. Heavy showers in the afternoon but I'm in my tent having my afternoon snooze. Pub tea of NewYorker Chicken at 6pm.. Chicken breasts in a sea of cheese - strange, but did the job!

Mon 28 June    66 miles

Woke at 4.30am, snooze until 5.30am, up at 5.45am and packed and away at 6.45am. No waterproof top to start the day - high cloud but a cool breeze so only borderline conditions for my long sleeved thermal top and cycling tee shirt. Thick grey cloud accumulates all day but no rain. Good easy run down to Exeter. Then set off west to Dartmoor. Nasty little hills in Devon - very sharp uphill climb, then very steep downhill during which there's no time to recover before the next up. At Moretonhampstead (see pic) had my two bananas sitting in the village square. Nice little place blighted in the 15mins I was there by a succession of tourist coaches jamming up the 'High Street'. Bizarrely and masochistically, while eating my bananas, I looked up the forthcoming terrain on a walking map in the post office. A few nasty arrows ('>') but not too many. Onwards across Dartmoor under the dark grey clouds. Stopped for the occasional photo of Dartmoor pony foals for the children (see pic). Amused by Germans having some sort of trouble with their old Jags - an E-Type and XJS.. Finally arrive at the campsite on the far edge of Dartmoor, just outside Tavistock at 1.45pm. Magnificent shower block - individual cubicles with toilet, basin and shower, the whole thing beautifully decorated, even with coving! A little shop sold enough for a baguette and cheese lunch (x2!), with a bar/restaurant for later. Cloudburst as I showered but tent up and everything under cover so no probs. Then a bit (and only a bit) of sun to lie in while I wait for tea. Tea is home cooked lasagne, chips and a pint.

Tue 29 June    60 miles

Another cool start 7am with high thin cloud. Legs are tired by the time I start now, so plan is to make my way to the A30 - hopefully relatively flat and well surfaced and just slog along it to Redruth. Through Tavistock and on to Liskeard. Some nasty short steep hills, not ideal for cold, tired legs. Road became easier once I hit the A38 from Liskeard to Bodmin. Still some good uphill sections but not so steep, just longer! The A30 represents a Cornish motorway, and as such takes all the heavy traffic at speed. Not ideal for cycling, but there was very little traffic. Still riding into a stiff breeze - the wind farm turbines were doing about 20rpm if anyone can translate that into knots!! I'm slowly running out of steam, and am very glad to reach the roundabout where I leave the A30 at about 11.30am. Since I'm not sure whether there will be anywhere near the campsite to eat, I dive into the Little Chef for the Olympic breakfast. I have another attack of hay fever. This has happened once or twice before in the last couple of days in isolated incidents. Must be some local flora.. Now revived I take to the local roads to look for the campsite. After wandering around the lanes I eventually find it. Basic facilities, but the owner gives me a free pitch (£10 saved). Sun makes it out, but still quite breezy. Shower, tent up and set off to explore some derelict local mines (see pic) before tea - as you do! Lady who owns the land says I'm welcome to look round but mind the 280ft shaft!! Apparently the mines will be renovated at some point, but she's not hanging around to be trampled by tourists.. Have to cycle a mile or so for tea - local pub, opens at 6pm. Treleigh Arms has just changed hands so the menu is a bit ad hoc. Turns out to be £10 for Steak and chips with loads of veg. Lovely.

Wed 30 June    27 miles + 10miles back to Penzance!

The final leg then!.. I needed to catch the train in Penzance at 9.30... so.. up at 5.15am and packed and away by 5.45am. Fairly warm but windy so two tops and waterproof, but only shorts on the lower half. Soon starts to spit then drizzle. By St Ives it's raining properly with a good breeze. By Land's End I'm soaked, it's raining steadily on a 10-15mph south westerly. The end-of-the-pier hotel/attractions were all closed up so the cleaner took my photo by the famous white signpost (see pic) - the official photographer doesn't turn up until 9.30 so no fancy message available! Didn't hang around. Enough pictures left to grab a shot of the mileage on the bike computer (see pic). Returned to Penzance at speed, going with the wind (and rain) this time. Fabulously easy going ie uphill in top with no wind resistance - this is the way to cycle the length of the country! Got to the station in time to grab a coffee and enormous pasty at the station cafe. Squelched my way onto the train and changed into my dry clothes in the toilets. Left soaking trainers to drip in the luggage rack until Birmingham. Dull journey back through the pouring rain over half the ground I'd covered during the past few days, but not half so tiring! Shame the seats were so bolt upright there was no chance of a snooze. Eventually got home to a Champagne reception at 5.30pm - clothes in the wash, body in the bath... Aching recedes after about three days..

Brilliantly taken picture to prove the mileage claimed (582 - not including the run back from Land's End to Penzance)... apparently not so easy in the rain with a disposable camera!!.. you'll just have to take my word for it!

Total raised so far approx. £1350

last updated: 09 September 2004