The Journey North - Thursday 14th August 1997

The day of reckoning had finally arrived and after a days work at the office arrived home to complete the final packing. Loaded the bike onto the car and Sarah and Ben delivered me to Fareham railway station with plenty of time to spare. Said my farewells and boarded the 17:20 direct to London Waterloo. Journey uneventful other than watching other cyclist load and unload the cycles on and off the train and wondering how by bike was coping in the somewhat cramped guardsvan. Arrived at Waterloo on time and amazingly bike had survived without a scratch. Set off across London for the short ride to Euston. Journey took less that 20 minutes and the streets were surprisingly quiet.

Hung around outside Euston station for half an hour before going inside and making my way to the departure gates for the sleeper service to Inverness. Time passed quite quickly and the entertainment was watching a heated argument between a coloured gentleman and the Metropolitan police. Needless to say the police won and the guy was taken into custody.

Boarded the sleeper at 21:00 and locked by bike safely in the guardsvan after checking that I had the correct coach as the train splits on its journey north. Having never been on a sleeper before this was a new experience and was very impressed with the standard of accommodation. Met my sleeping partner who departed straight for the buffet bar and after seeing the train through Watford junction decided to take to my bed for an early night.

Day 1 - Friday 15th Augsut 1997

Slept remarkably well and awoke about 6:00 and decided to get up and view the journey from outside the cabin. We were just arriving at Dalwhinnie, a small station to the east of Rannoch Moor that Robert and I had talked about walking to at some stage in the future. Small little village with only a hotel and one or two houses. Little did I realise at this stage that this small place would crop up again on my journey south. Remainder of the journey to Inverness was quite uneventful and weather not to bad, a little overcast. However as we pulled into Inverness, the rain began to fall. Several bikes unloaded and on Inverness station met a guy from Cornwall nicknamed 'T' who was also planning to undertake the same journey. He was planning to transverse more to the west coast after passing through Inverness on the journey and heading for Fort William. Chatting together soon passed the two hour wait at Inverness, which was a very busy little station, and we were soon boarding the train for the final journey north to Thurso. I was beginning to feel confident after talking to 'T' and realising how little training he had done for the ride. Although planning to do the trip in 11/12 days he had done little preparation and was riding an old mountain bike which had seen better days. The advantage he had over me though was that he was twenty years my junior.

Journey to Thurso took three and a half hours passing through some really pretty countryside. Made a mental note of the road conditions as I would be following this route back to Inverness. Road seemed relatively flat but time would tell. The east coast of Scotland is really nice and the sun had now broken through and the sea was perfectly calm. I prayed that the conditions would continue and that the predicted south westerly wind would hold off.

Arrived at Thurso at 14:45 and by 15:00 was loaded and on the road to the real start of my journey, John O'Groats. The ride across the top of Scotland was good with very little traffic, rain was holding off and I was feeling good and keen to make the real start. After 20miles reached John O'Groats which was somewhat of an anti-climax as there is really nothing there other than the famous hotel. Decided to have an official photograph taken as proof of reaching the starting point of my adventure. A number of cyclist were finishing the end to end and all looked remarkably fresh. Most had taken two weeks to complete and I only hoped that my target of 9 days was not too ambitious. Both 'T' and I were given a send off by the finishers and with their good wishes set forth on the first official stage of the ride. The ride to Wick, my first overnight, stop was relatively easy and completed the 17 miles in 1h 20m. Planned to meet 'T' on the outside of Wick after he decided to stop for a rest soon after we left Wick but after waiting for several minutes decided to go and find by Bed and Breakfast accommodation. Found it quite easily, overlooking Wick harbour and was welcomed by Bob and Sheila, both of whom were originally from the Hampshire area. Accommodation very comfortable and had a pleasant meal in 'Carters Bar' (homemade steak pie) just a couple of hundred yards down the road before retiring to bed for an early night.

Daily mileage: 17.43 miles

Average Speed: 13.00 mph

Cycling Time: 1h 20m

Cumulative mileage: 17.43 miles

Day 2 - Saturday 16th August 1997

Left Wick at 09:30 after a good breakfast and climber steadily for several miles. It was a glorious day, blue skies and a cooling breeze. First big test of the ride came at Berridale which I had been warned about. Pleasant ride down into the valley but then the hill hits you like a brick wall. Took my time and cycled a few hundred yards at a time before resting. Eventually reached the summit not beaten by the hill although it took several miles to fully recover and had knocked the average speed down. Long pleasant ride down into Helmsdale where I lunched on a pasty and several bottles of Lucozade which made me feel a lot better. After lunch the road flattened out and made good progress. stopped for a ice lolly and my first bottle of Iron Bru at Brora and rested for a few minutes in the cool shade.

Continued to head south and on a long straight stretch of road just north of Tain came across 'T' at the side of the road resting. He had left an hour before me so I was quite pleased with my progress. Cycled together as far as Tain where he decided to get B & B for the night. My plan was to get as far as Tore and eventually reached there quite late in the evening. All B & B in Tore was fully booked but was recommended to take the lane towards Inverness where I should come across one or two more B & B's. Came across Redfield Farm and got a small room for the night with Elma and Hector who made me feel very welcome. Plan was to return to Tore and the local for a meal but after a nice bath decided to stay in for the evening. Elma provided homemade shortbread which was really nice. Retired to bed quite early and slept well.

Daily mileage: 100.48 miles

Average Speed: 10.20 mph

Cycling Time: 9h 45m

Cumulative Mileage: 117.91 miles

Day 3 - Sunday 17th August 1997

After a good breakfast left Tore and headed south to Inverness and the bridge over the Moray Firth. Stopped here to take a photo and to adjust my saddle-bag which was getting closer and closer to the back wheel. Still only today and tomorrow and then would meet up with Mum and Dad to offload my kit. A long slow climb followed away from Inverness on the A9 which is a bloody awful road. Thankfully, cyclists are now diverted off the main road in a number of places and follow the old road or 'B' class roads which is a nice break from the constant stream of traffic. Reached Aviemore after 37 miles where I stopped for lunch and after leaving was no more than 2 miles down the road when it started to rain. Put more bluntly, it persisted down for the next three and a half hours until just past Dalwhinnie, the small railway station that I had passed through on my journey north. As I reached the Slochd summit I had my one and only accident. I decided to stop in a layby to recoup from the climb and unclasping my left foot from my pedal the bike lurched right and over I keeled. Luckily I was in the layby and did little damage other than a cut knee and grazed elbow. Felt a proper fool but in future I would remember to unclasp both feet before stopping.

After this little incident, there was a long gradual decent into Pitlochry mainly on small lanes that had been set aside for cyclist, looked very much like the old road before the A9 had been built. Arrived in Pitlochry in the glorious sunshine and found the tourist information who directed me to the last single room B & B in Pitlochry that night. Arrived bloodstained from my accident but after a nice bath and a cup of tea felt 100% better. Walked down the hill into town and had a pint and a nice meal at 'The Mill' restaurant before climbing back up the hill to my digs and yet another goods night sleep. Tomorrow, all being well would meet with Mum and Dad and have my first night under canvas !

Daily Mileage: 95.92 miles

Average Speed: 11.20 mph

Cycling Time: 8h 30m

Cumulative Mileage: 213.83 miles

Day 4 - Monday 18th August 1997

Anticipated this to be one of the longest days today, getting down towards the Scottish Border and hopefully meeting up with Mum and Dad. Left Pitlochry at 09:30 and managed for the most part of the day to keep off the main A9 which was a blessing. Had a minor hiccup in the morning when my saddle disintegrated but luckily it was only a couple of bolts that had worked their way loose.

Reached Perth without any further trouble and then it was on southwards with the anticipation of crossing the Forth Bridge. Weather very warm and sunny but there was also a slight breeze which kept me at a nice temperature. Stopped at Kinross for a milk shake and then on through Cowdenbeath before eventually hitting the A90 on the approach to the bridge. A very unpleasant stretch of road for about 2 miles but then the bridge came into view and thankfully there was a cycle path across. As I reached the bridge, the weather changed dramatically. It got very cold and the top of the bridge was invisible in the mist. Took a few minutes to take in the view and a snap of the old Forth railway bridge before riding across to the outskirts of Edinburgh. Here I had to make the decision of whether to divert round the outskirts or cycle in ands then out of the city centre. Took the latter and probably with hindsight was the wrong decision.

The road into the city was very busy and unpleasant. Cyclist were diverted onto the pathway which they were claiming was a cycle track but having to stop every 100 yards or so to get off and bumping up and down pavements was not my idea of a cycle track. Then the thing just vanished altogether so gave up and took life in hand and cycled on the road into the city centre. Took nearly two hours navigating through the city before coming out the other side tired and hungry. It was now about 6.00pm and was beginning to doubt if I was going to make Galashiels tonight as it was about another 30 miles. Stopped for a sandwich and bar of chocolate at a garage before heading on along the A7. Just past a little place called Middleton, the weather took a turn for the worst and the mist came down. Resigned to the fact that I wasn't going to make Galashiels tonight and decided to give Mum & Dad a ring to let them know. Got through okay and they were only about 5 miles further up the road as they had come out to meet me. Decided to soldier on and met them a little further up the road. Good news was that they had left Galashiels in the sunshine and that the mist and fog was only local. Unloaded my saddle-bag and attached my rear light and set forth again. Climbed for a few more miles before starting a long gradual decent into Stow.

Really tanked down this hill, top gear, Tour de France standards, Miguel would have been impressed. Met Mum and Dad just before Stow and was warned of a long climb out of Stow to Galashiels. Well I never came across anything more that a gradual slope and the last mile or so was downhill into the centre of Galashiels. Checked the speedo and had clocked over 111 miles today. A very long day but really satisfying at the end of it. Loaded up the bike as the camp-site was 4 miles outside Galashiels and now it was getting dark. Chicken and chips in Galashiels before finding the tent and my first night under canvas. A good day and now with support the rest of the way really felt confident about reaching Lands End.

Daily Mileage: 111.50 miles

Average Speed: 10.50 mph

Cycling Time: 10h 34m

Cumulative Mileage: 325.33 miles

Day 5 - Tuesday 19th August 1997

A real hot summers day today. Left Galashiels just after 9:00am and a good ride for a couple of hors. Turned off the A7 at Hawick onto the B6399 to avoid the traffic and headed off cross country. The scenery was really pleasant but the sun was a scorcher. Pleasant enough going downhill with the breeze blowing into my face but the uphill bits were a real slog. After a particularly hard climb reached the top of Windburgh hill and as I passed over the summit saw the road descend in front of me for several miles. Got a good turn of speed going and imagined myself descending a mountain stage of the Tour De France, sprinting out of the hairpin corners and only slowing for the sheep that occasionally decided to do a suicidal walk into my path. Mum and Dad passed me just before Newcastleton and waited in the village for me to catch up. Decided that I would stop here for lunch and found the local shop. Sat on a seat on the village green and chatted to the local postman for 20 minutes who was interested in my adventure. I knew that the afternoon ride was going to be difficult with the heat but the thought of crossing back into England meant I was back on home soil.

Crossed the border a few miles north of Carlisle after rejoining the A7. Nothing like Gretna Green on the A74, just a simple sign announcing the border. The temperature was now well into the 80's and taking its' toll. Stooped at Longtown for refreshments and sat in the cool shade for about half an hour. Onwards them into Carlisle and through the town heading south for Penrith on the A6. Halfway to Penrith I could see the sky begin to darken and a few miles short the clouds opened and a terrific thunderstorm developed. Luckily I found shelter in a telephone box and decided at this stage that I was probably not going to make it to Kendal which was my planned destination for the day. Phoned Mum and Dad and agreed to meet them in Penrith. The rain eventually stopped and cycled the last few miles into Penrith where Mum and Dad were waiting for me. The rain had stopped but the skies were dark. Decided to plod on for a further few miles but knew that with the Shap ahead, Kendal was definitely out of the question. Eventually called it a day 5 miles short of the village of Shap and loaded the bike onto the car and transported the 20 miles or so to our camp-site on the other side of Shap. This was probably the most depressing part of the entire journey as we ascended Shap in the car knowing that I would have to retrace my steps tomorrow morning. After a quick shower went into Kendal for a bite to eat only to find that Kendal shuts up at about 6:00 in the evening. Had to make do with a pint and a couple of bags of peanuts followed by a cheese sandwich back at the camp-site. After a long hard day slept like a log.

Daily Mileage: 88.40 miles

Average Speed: 9.60 mph

Cycling Time: 11h 00m

Cumulative Mileage: 413.73 miles

Day 6 - Wednesday 20th August 1997

Woken early with a cup of tea and loaded the bike onto the car and transported the 20 miles back to where I had finished the previous evening. A very quiet and sombre journey for some reason, probably the thought of tackling Shap, this time on my bike. Got dropped off just after 7:30 and took just over an hour to make my way to the foot of Shap and the climb to the summit. Was a pleasant surprise really as although the hill is a long hard slog it is not particularly steep. Found a comfortable climbing gear and just sat in the saddle and pumped away. Once at the summit took a few minutes to gather my breath before the long descent back to the camp-site and a cooked breakfast. Really motored coming down the other side and was back on site and eating a really good breakfast with 20 miles under my belt by 9:30.

Set off again just after 10:00 and passed through Kendal, Lancaster and Preston before hitting the conurbation of Wigan and Warrington. Not a particularly pleasant ride today but nevertheless it had to be done. The roads around Wigan and Warringtron are diabolical with numerous bumps and pot-holes. Weather was showery today with a slight headwind but after Shap the road was generally flat. Met up with Mum and Dad just the other side of Warrington and the only accommodation they could find was in a Travel Lodge just south of Warrington. We had the 'family room' for the night but it was comfortable and was able to have a good soak in the bath before walking to a little pub a few hundred yards up the road called the Holly Bush. Great meal and a couple of pints of beer. Things now back on track and hopefully tomorrow may make it as far as Gloucester and would be really 'nearly home'.

Daily Mileage: 105.50 miles

Average Speed: 11.00 mph

Cycling Time: 9h 20m

Cumulative Mileage: 519.23 miles

Day 7 - Thursday 21st August 1997

Had breakfast at the Little Chef next door to the Travel Lodge. Dad was suffering from a hangover from his couple of pints from the previous night so did not feel up to a cooked breakfast. (He only had two pints !). On the road again by 09:00 heading south to Whitchurch where I stopped for a drink and a roll. Then on to Shrewsbury where the rain set in again. Took the by-pass around Shrewsbury which was mostly cycle track before finding the A49 signposted to Ludlow and Leominster, This was probably the worst road of the ride for traffic, very busy and not very wide. The pouring rain did not help and decided to try to find side roads just to give myself a break. managed to find one or two but all came back to the main road eventually. Met Mum and Dad in Leominster and sent them on ahead to find some digs for the night as with the rain camping was out of the question. Eventually came across them 4 miles short of Ledbury at a little village called Trumpet. Excellent Bed and Breakfast in an old converted farm house and an even better pub literally across the road. Another excellent pub meal and Dad decided to stick to the cider tonight. A good ride today physically apart from the rain and the traffic. Tomorrow though would be back on home soil around Bristol and was meeting Sarah and Ben for lunch at the 'Bowl' at Almondsbury. It will be really great to see them again as it has now been over a week since I had left them on Fareham railway station.

Daily Mileage: 104.50 miles

Average Speed: 10.70 mph

Cycling Time: 9h 45m

Cumulative Mileage: 623.73 miles

Day 8 - Friday 22nd August 1997

And so into the second week of my journey. Left Trumpet at 9:15 and quickly settled into my rhythm again. After just over an hour turned the corner and saw the welcoming sight of Gloucester Cathedral in the distance. Was really beginning to feel back home again. Sped through Gloucester and stopped just outside Quedgeley for a milk shake at MacDonalds before heading onto the A38 and lunch with the family. Thought about stopping to see Sticky but time was against me. Got to the pub at about 1:00 and was greeted by Sarah and Ben and Dolly and Elsie. Had a couple of pints of orange squash and a bag of peanuts. Said farewell at them promptly headed off in the wrong direction out of Almondsbury and ended up doing about 5 miles with Almondsbury a half mile down the road. (And I thought I knew the area).

Back onto the A38, across the Clifton Suspension bridge and after a long climb up out of Bristol to Lulsgate and the airport a super flat ride to Bridgwater. Met Dad at North Petherton and transported back to our camp site for the evening. It was great to retrace my steps in the car knowing that these were roads already covered and that I would have to be taken back to my finishing place in the morning. Again an enjoyable meal in the pub and a good nights sleep. This was the last day that Mum and Dad were providing my back up. It was really good of them to follow me all the way down from the borders. It would have been a difficult and lonely ride without their support.

Daily Mileage: 100.40 miles

Average Speed: 11.20 mph

Cycling Time: 9h 00m

Cumulative Mileage: 724.13 miles

Day 9 - Saturday 23rd August 1997

Said farewell to Mum and Dad at North Petherton and set off with the aim of reaching Tavistock and the start of our holiday in Devon. Today however, was going to be a bad day. Took a stupid detour to get off the main A38 and ended climbing small country lanes and achieving very little. Eventually met Sarah and Ben at Pinhoe just outside Exeter at the local church which as you can guess was at the top of a very steep hill. Had a picnic and then off again towards Dartmoor. Here I probably made my biggest navigational mistake. Instead of keeping to the main A30 I decided to go right across the centre of Dartmoor. On leaving Exeter, the hills started and climbed for what seemed like hours to eventually make Moretonhampstead. The only up point was meeting a tandem coming the other way where we stopped and chatted for 10 minutes. The two guys were on their way to John O'Groats which now seemed a very long way away. We discussed the routes before each going our separate ways. Felt good that I was nearing the end of my journey and that they had only just begun.

After clearing Moretonhampstead climber steadily until reached a car park on the edge of Dartmoor where I stopped and had a ice cream. Weather at this point was fine but very windy. However within a matter of minutes the sun had gone and the rain set in. Continued to climb upwards against the wind and by now it was getting very late. Made it as far as Two Bridges where I phoned Sarah who was waiting in Tavistock and arranged for her to come and find me. Cycled for another 2 or 3 miles before we met. By now the mist was down and could not see more than about 30 yards and it was getting dark. Called it a day 10 miles short of Tavistock and bike and me were transported back to our cottage about 4 miles the other side of Tavistock itself. Made a mental note of the route during the ride home as this would be the ride I would have to ride tomorrow. Felt really tired and weary tonight and was beginning to doubt my ability to complete the ride tomorrow.

Daily Mileage: 70.70 miles

Average Speed: 7.90 mph

Cycling Time: 8h 48m

Cumulative Mileage: 794.83 miles

Day 10 - Sunday 24th August 1997

Awoke early and by 08:30 was back to the place where I had been picked up last night. The weather was foul, wet and very foggy on the hilltops. We had decided to take an overnight bag as there was the possibility that I would not complete the ride today and that we would stay in B & B somewhere in Cornwall and finish tomorrow. Sat in the car for what seemed like ages waiting for the rain to stop and the mist to lift. Eventually the rain stopped and unloaded the bike and set off for the final push. Within minutes the rain came down again and I was drenched. However, having now got wet it didn't seem so bad.

The ride in to Tavistock was not too bad as most of it was downhill after an initial climb. The church bells were ringing as I rode through the town for Sunday service. Agreed to meet Sarah and Ben on the outskirts of Liskeard. The road was a continual up and down but by now I was determined that having come all this way without getting off and walking I was not going to start now. After a quick snack at Liskeard the next objective was Bodmin. By now the rain had stopped and the weather was looking brighter. Road from Liskeard to Bodmin was all downhill and the route followed a small river valley.

On arriving at Bodmin turned left and hit the main A30, the road that would take be all the way to Lands End. Don't know what it was, maybe it was the thought of Lands End but the adrealin began to pump through my body and the bike wouldn't go fast enough. The main A30 was up and down but no longer steep up and steep downs. The hills appeared in the distance but when I reached them they did not pose a problem, just head down and into the climbing rhythm. Came across 3 cyclist heading to St Ives who had cycled from Birmingham and Bristol. They were off to see an old school teacher who had taught them many years ago. Exchanged our stories and headed on at a terrific rate of knots. Brief stop for a snack when I met Sarah and Ben at the side of the road and agreed to meet them again just the other side of Camborne.

The miles seemed to whiz by and both the bike and me were really motoring. Came across Sarah and Ben who were surprised I had reached them so quickly. The end was now in sight. Had about another 25 miles to go and this was the final push. Sarah and Ben set off to Lands End and I began to reflect the past nine days. Here I was within a couple of hours of the end of my adventure.

Penzance came and went and now I was on the final stage. The last 10 miles were initially hilly out of Penzance but once on top of the peninsula the road flattened out. Thoughts were now on the finish. The final couple of miles were flat out, there was no holding back now, through Sennen and there it was, Lands End and the famous hotel, albeit now a mass of tourist buildings. Down the final straight and through the car park barrier to the end of the road. But where was by support team. Eventually saw Sarah and Ben who had not expected me so soon. Ben presented me with a special certificate that he had done for me and a mug of Lands End. We wandered on down to the famous signpost where I had the official picture taken and then into the hotel to sign the official end to end book. Then into the Post Office to register my journey and get the official certificate. Back to the car for a well deserved glass of champagne. Car loaded and back to Tavistock via a MacDonalds for a well deserved rest and an enjoyable weeks holiday with Sarah and Ben.

Daily Mileage: 97.50 miles

Average Speed: 11.30 mph

Cycling Time: 8h 36m

Cumulative Mileage: 892.33 miles

Final Thoughts