© Mike Stringer and Caroline Hayes 1996
Before you even start to cut the shafts, whether they are proper Port Orford Cedar (POC) shafts or dowels, test each one by flexing the arrow shaft a little to check that it is not cracked, split or broken and that it is sound to use for LRP arrows.
The next stage is to cut a taper on one end of the arrow shaft with a shaft cutter, to allow the fitting of the nock later on. The shaft cutter resembles a large pencil sharpener and is used in much the same way. Ensure that you have the correct sized cutter for the shafts you are using. If you don't the nocks will not fit properly, and your arrow may fly badly.
Taper all your shafts on one end only
You may wish to cut the shafts to suit your own draw length. Your draw length is the distance from the nocking point on the bow string, to approx' 1" in front of the arrow rest on the bow when it is drawn. For LRP arrows, we have to measure to the front of the bow and add 21/2" or approx' 65mm to allow space for the foam head. You will probably find that you can afford to cut about 2" off the length of a standard 32" arrow shaft. Get someone to help you measure this distance accurately though. It is not necessary to cut the shafts to length but it has a few advantages.
The first is that they will not stick out of your quiver so far! The second is they will gain a little stiffness and strength and will probably shoot better, and be less delicate under foot after being shot in encounters. Whatever you do, try to ensure that all your arrows are the same length. This will aid your accuracy. Different length arrows tend to fly differently. Use a small junior hacksaw to cut your shafts. Ensure that you do it carefully. Do not splinter the ends of the shafts. If you do, use a fine file or sand paper, and clean up any damage. Try and keep the sawn end as flat as possible.
DO NOT ROUND OFF THE END OF THE SHAFT!
A flat ended shaft helps to distribute the load exerted by the shaft on the inside face of the foam head. Cross bow bolts need to be flat at both ends, and sanded as described above.
The bolt shaft should be long enough to slide along the bow up to the stop, with approx' 65mm (21/2" inches) standing proud of the front of the crossbow, on which to build the foam head.
Paint the arrow shafts with car spray paint, lacquer or similar wood sealant. This is your opportunity to get artistic, as you can paint the arrows any colour you wish. You could use a stain first to give the shafts an antique look, and seal them with a clear varnish/lacquer afterwards. You may find though that white is the most useful finish, allowing the arrow to be visible in undergrowth etc for easy retrieval after encounters. I advise you apply one coat and allow it to dry. Rub over the surface with wire wool to remove any roughness, and give the shafts a second coat. This gives the arrows a reasonably good finish and seals them quite well. You may find that giving them a third coat after rubbing down the second also, will improve the finish even more.
When taking the time to make a good set of arrows, it is preferable to seal the wood well, as this prevents damp etc from warping the shaft. The smoother and straighter your arrows are, the better they will shoot, and the safer they will be.
Each arrow will require three fletchings, and each crossbow bolt two. Fletchings come in a range of colours, sizes and materials. Feather fletchings are the most authentic, and pleasing to the eye, but are not the most durable (particularly in the rain). Plastic fletchings can be too stiff, tending to break away from the shaft along the glue line if roughly used. They can also be a little dangerous if they catch exposed skin in flight, sometimes inflicting wounds similar to paper cuts! The most durable are the rubber variety. They are very flexible, do not tend to break off, and retain their shape even if the arrows are pushed in a quiver fletchings first! The best length for arrow fletchings is about 4" or 5" (inches), and 3" or 4" for bolts. This provides a good stable guidance for the shaft with what will be a rather bulky foam head on the point end. However, the longer the fletchings, the more wind resistant drag they cause (slowing down the arrow) and the more expensive they are - something to consider if you loose a lot of arrows! I find that even if an arrow gets broken, feather fletchings can be cut from the shafts with a sharp knife along the glue line; with the quills sanded smooth they are almost as good as new, and are able to be used on a new set of arrows.
Do not bother using flu-flu's unless you particularly wish to slow down your arrow tremendously, and loose accuracy. They don't really have the guidance quality for an arrow with heads as large as those used in LRP; they are designed for bird shooting at close range, so that they slow down very quickly for easy retreival if they miss the target.
A fletching jig will put all your fletchings on in exactly the same way, which will allow your arrow to fly far more accurately. However, the process can be done by hand if you do not feel that you can afford a jig, or that you will not be making enough arrows to justify the purchase. The hand method (using dressmaking pins)is less accurate, but can provide good results with practice.
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Each fletching should sit across the shaft a small amount to encourage the arrow to spin during flight (like a bullet), enabling it to fly straighter |
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This nock view (without the nock in position) shows the spiral effect of the fletchings. |
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Apply a line of clear glue (UHU or similar) across the bottom edge of the quill |
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Position the fletching on the arrow shaft as indicated. Using three dress-making pins, one at either end and one in the middle of the fletching, carefully pierce through the quill into the arrow shaft. Repeat this process with the other two fletchings, spacing them evenly around the shaft. Finally check that all the fletchings are positioned correctly, and that the quills are touching the shaft evenly allowing the glue to bond. Leave fletched arrows at least 30 minutes before disturbing them |
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Bolts require only two fletchings at either side of the shaft as "wings". Set bolt fletchings slightly across the shaft as with the arrows above to encourage spin. |
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The nock should be glued in position with clear glue in line with one feather, the "Cock Feather". |
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This means the arrow will run across the bow in a flat plane. You may wish to make the cock feather a different colour to the other two. This will allow you to discern more quickly during use, which way the arrow should sit on the bow and nock onto the string. |
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After the fletching glue has cured for about 6 hours, the end of the fletching requires paring down with a craft knife, to prevent it lifting. A rub with a small piece of fine sandpaper and a smear of clear glue or varnish will finish this off perfectly. |
How to make the Foam Arrow Head
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