Knit to Fit: investigating 3D knitwear shaping for larger sized women
Background
This website formed part of my doctoral research, which was completed in March 2011.
The research stemmed from the fact that the ‘outsize’ clothing market is expanding; the average British woman has a proportionally larger stomach and waist than her 1950’s counterpart, and is a size 16. (Established by the recent size survey SizeUK). Paradoxically, women of size 16 and above find clothes shopping frustrating, humiliating and fruitless.
As well as the general increase in body size identified by SizeUk and currently being featured n the media, there is much evidence and research to support the fact that aging effects body shape, one example being that women tend to thicken at the waist. Both these phenomena suggest that standard sizes commonly adhered to by manufacturers will no longer apply. UK retailers are slowly beginning to recognise this trend, and this research is aimed at supplying some of the information needed to make this transition in knitwear.
Clothing for larger body size should be comfortable and fit the body shape in a complimentary manner. Since its inception in January 2004 and in pursuit of this concept I worked with real women's body shape, developing fabric structures and knitting techniques, all of which culminated in a series of prototype garments exemplifying the concept behind the research.
Protoype garments have been manufactured on Shima Seiki CAD/CAM digital knitting systems in order that the final garments are commercially viable. Easy-care natural fibres were used to enable a modern lifestyle without compromising on comfort, and with the desire to enhance the wearer's experience.
Throughout my research I was supported by both the Faculty of Arts Research Student Division and the School of Arts, Design and Media in the University of Brighton.
I would like to thank the following for their support and generosity:
Shima Seiki (Uk) Ltd
[TC]², The Textile/Technology Corporation
Wallsall Museum Costume Department
Woodhead Publishing
Worthing Museum Costume Department
Wykes of Leicester
Project Outline
B
ackground.
The ‘outsize’ clothing market is expanding; the average British woman has a proportionally larger stomach and waist than her 1950’s counterpart, and is a size 16. (Established by the recent size survey SizeUK). Paradoxically, women of size 16 and above find clothes shopping frustrating, humiliating and fruitless. By 2006 half the women in Britain will be 40 or older. There is much evidence and research to support the fact that aging effects body shape, one example being that women tend to thicken at the waist, so the standard sizes adhered to by manufacturers will no longer apply. UK retailers are slowly beginning to recognise this trend, and this research is aimed at supplying some of the information needed to make this transition.
Research Questions.
Is the primary value of knitted fabric on larger bodies its inherent stretch? This research questions whether such a method of achieving fit is satisfactory by exploring shaping methods in combination with direct body shape data. It also challenges the ‘norm’ of the size 12 woman, (disproved by SizeUK findings) and the horror of fat which is demonstrated from haute couture to the high street.
Methods.
A pilot study has commenced which culminated in late 2006.
Samples are knitted on a 12gge Shima Seiki SES102ff machine using an SDS1 design system at the University of Brighton. This versatility pursues a thread of the research; enabling the possibility of bespoke knitwear through a dynamic, digital relationship with the consumer.
Exhibition
Work stemming from this research formed part of the 2006 exhibiton "Blurring the Boundaries, Contemporary Knitting and Fashion" at Fairfield Museum and Gallery, Sydney, Australia.
Forthcoming Events
This project will form a work-in-progress presentation at 'Include 2007', Helen Hamlyn Research Centre, Royal College of Art, London 2-4th April 2007.
