Problems with your dog?

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Introduction

Initially I was going to restrict this section to problems encountered by greyhounds only. But really there is very little difference between greyhounds and ordinary dogs - except greyhounds are more intelligent and definitely nicer! So I have included some suggestions for some problems which are encountered more often with non greyhounds. 

Racing greyhounds generally make an ideal pets. They are intelligent, love people, non aggressive, are superb on the lead, and in cars. Although some are naturally 'cat safe' and some soon become used to small animals, like any other breed of dog some are not. 

BUT it does take time for any greyhound to adjust to the totally new experience of your home. In general most greyhounds are very happily settled into their new home within a month. I feel any problems encountered in the first month are normally due to misunderstandings and can be fairly easily corrected. If a dog starts to behave incorrectly after being well trained then there is usually an underlying reason for the change. It can be due to a medical reason or a perceived change in the dog's circumstances. Medical reasons need a trip to the veterinary surgery. Other changes are very often successfully dealt with by starting a particular part of training all over again. If a dog has a problem, then the faster it can be treated the easier it is to treat - so get help from the adoption centre as soon as possible. All adoption centres would sooner help you to solve the problem rather than have the dog returned.

Greyhounds are like other dogs in many ways so virtually all the information here will relate to problems encountered with any dog.(the exception is stairs). Many problems can be solved before they start by taking the dog to local dog obedience classes - but please check the class out first - there is no need for check chains and similar punishments. The classes give the greyhound the chance to associate with those strange things called non-greyhounds in controlled conditions! The difference it made to my greyhounds was amazing - they learnt rapidly that the large strange furry shapes were DOGS! - and that some little furry things were also dogs. I have found that a clap of hands and a sharp NO! normally stops any misbehavior instantly. Back

Racing Background

UK bred racing greyhounds are normally kept together in litter groups, in large paddocks, as puppies until they are much older than ordinary puppies - quite often up to four or five months old (instead of say 8 weeks). Unless, of course, there are problems due to dominance issues, sexual maturity etc., when they would be kenneled separately. This means that they are well socialised with greyhounds but have normally never seen a different breed of dog. At about four months they start their first simple fun training. At 18 months they normally start to race. At 5 years old they are usually retired, unless they are retired earlier for other reasons. The other 'type' of greyhound is the Irish bred. These are often bought either as a litter or singly, and imported to the UK. The greyhound's life consists of feeding, sleeping (normally with another greyhound of the opposite sex) in a kennel, grooming, paddocking, race training, traveling to and from the track and racing (usually once a week). This means that they are used to - a regulated life - being handled - traveling in vehicles - and having lots of other greyhounds around - but they have never seen other types of dogs - never been in homes - and have been trained to chase small furry things!!  Back

Settling In.

The greyhound has usually never been in a house before so most noises and objects are strange and they have no idea what is expected of them.. But many settle in as though they had always lived in a house! But unacceptable behavior must be dealt with immediately. Simple scolding and ignoring the dog will normally stop the behavior. But it is important to find out WHY the dog misbehaved. Was it a misunderstanding? Was he alone too long unsupervised? Is it a medical problem?.

Introducing: If you have a dog already it is best to introduce the new dog to the established dog on neutral ground and take them for a walk immediately - then bring them both indoors. It is a very good idea to take your other dog along to the greyhound kennels to find how they are likely to get on - some dogs take an instant dislike to each other. Generally speaking a dog will get on well with a bitch and are unlikely to fight. Bed space is very important. Some dogs will happily share their bed with another dog but others need a separate space. Ben for instance will not share a bed with another dog. The only problem I've had with Ben is that he has nipped both my bitches because they tried to share his bed. Both of these nips did not require treatment.

THE FIRST DAYS: To reduce the chances of your dog developing Separation Anxiety it is an excellent idea to get him used to being alone. The first step is to leave the dog in a safe place where he can do no damage but can still see you, using say a baby gate. Then gradually increase the time alone from a few seconds a few hours, by say staying in other rooms and coming back to check. Kitchens are often a good choice to leave him but blocking off a section of a room also works. It is important to leave toys and chews to occupy the dog while you are away. Most dogs will spend their time alone sleeping. It is equally important NOT to make a fuss as you are leaving the house. It is far better to just give a chew treat or similar and leave quietly.

Most dogs cope better if there is a companion animal at home during your absence. But never leave a new greyhound unsupervised and unmuzzled with another pet until you are totally confident that all is well. I use two rooms - first locking the doors so only the smell and sounds get through, then use a tall baby gate to separate both dogs. Finally allowing them access to each other. Some greyhounds can even be left safely with rabbits with suitable training, although I wouldn't recommend it!.

It is most important that the new environment is introduced in as gentle and structured a way as possible. For instance, vacuum cleaners are very strange to them. So switch the device on for a few seconds at first, say in the next room, gradually increasing the time and closeness. My dogs now ignore it until the bed they are lying on is about to be cleaned! Back

Jumping up can usually be discouraged by grabbing hold of the front paws and saying NO! in a loud firm voice. Jumping up should not be mistaken for Po-going. Jumping up is when the dog puts his paws on your shoulders, can knock you over and so can be dangerous. Po-going is when the dog jumps up and down in excitement with his front paws in a begging position. This is not dangerous normally but it is easily possible to be smashed in the face if you bend over at the wrong time (as I found to my cost!!). Back

Aggression is rare in greyhounds as it is counter productive in a racing animal. Aggression should not be confused with snarling and barking. Snarling or barking are warnings, aggression is the act of fighting. But they do play very hard which can cause accidental damage to themselves and companions. Muzzles can reduce the problem whilst at play, although we do not use them at our kennels because there is only ever two dogs (kennel partners) in a paddock at any one time. Some dogs at play can sound very aggressive but generally the barking is at a higher pitch - very difficult for the inexperienced to discern. True aggression does sometimes occur and is best treated if it is likely to happen by muzzling when unsupervised. Fights can easily be stopped at the start of the fight simply by shouting - but an established fight can be dangerous to stop. About the only way is by soaking with water or grabbing by the scruff of the neck, slapping etc. - again only for the experienced. I have done it - but be aware of unintentional bites. A dog that shows consistent aggression is best dealt with by a dog behaviorist who may find the underlying cause. But if your dog is confident then he has normally has no need to fight. Some fights occur if there is a challenge to the established pack positions. This is best dealt with by supporting the stronger! There is little point is defending an older weaker dog's position by favouring it. That is, feeding it treats first etc. This simply causes conflicts to continue. Back

Snarling and growling are natural behaviors. Growling is normally a standard warning of "keep away" within the pack - but can also be used in play. So provided you take it in context, this is no problem. However a dog should never growl at you to 'keep away' as you are the 'top dog' in your pack. So at the first sign remove the dog - with a firm NO! - to a place where it is isolated from you, this is a severe punishment for a pack animal. Greyhounds are renowned for their people friendliness. So generally, provided they are clear about their pack position, they do not growl at the top dog except rarely in fun.

Snarling is the next stage of "Keep away or I'll bite" and should be always firmly discouraged. I've found that a very firm NO! normally works - I've never had a greyhound snarl at me but they will snarl at other dogs to emphasize their warning of "go away". A word of warning - NEVER back a snarling, growling, dog into a corner so that it cannot escape - this is when any dog has no choice but to bite. Back

Pulling is something a greyhound will not do under normal circumstances because a large part of their training consists of being on a lead with an experienced handler. The handler will automatically stop the pulling at a very early age. However, always have your wrist through the handle loop of the lead to avoid the unexpected hazard. Dogs that pull can normally be trained to conform by constant changing of direction whilst walking. yanking on the lead with a firm NO! (never use a choke collar) or with a head harness. I've used a Halti harness with great success for non greyhounds.

Some greyhounds will pull in their eagerness to start on their walk - but this very rapidly stops directly the walk starts. The problem with greyhounds is pulling if they see a suitable object to chase - cat - small dog - squirrel - deer! But this can be solved by watching the dog's ears while walking! The ears are normally flat against the head but will become erect and forward facing if an object interests them. At this point a firm grip on the lead and a firm NO! will usually deter them from a 40 mph chase! Back

Traveling is something racing greyhounds are used to as a part of their life. The average greyhound will get in the back seat of your car and quietly go to sleep - moving only when you stop. If a dog is often agitated during a car trip then make sure the dog cannot see out of the car. Obviously it is not a good idea to travel immediately after feeding as this can induce sickness or bowel movements - neither very desirable! Back

Companion animals can make a greyhound feel more secure. Almost any animal has been used, gerbils, cats, rabbits, or another dog. Naturally I recommend another greyhound - they look so much nicer when out walking! In all cases you must ensure that both animals can be left completely safely together. Obviously it is more likely that a small animal is at greater risk. Back

Stairs can be a problem because they are so different from the greyhound's previous experience. Initially I didn't want my greyhounds to climb stairs because it allowed a sanctuary for my other dog. I was too impatient when I did finally introduce Ben to the stairs. My stairs are steep and very narrow. I guided him up step by step, but never gave him a chance to go back down when he became very nervous. The net result was that he froze at the top and after waiting and encouraging him for two and a half hours I had to carry him back down - not easy at 85 pounds! Beauty, on the other hand, I allowed to try each step at a time over 6 weeks. Eventually she made it and is willing to use them fairly happily. It is better if the stairs are fairly wide so that you can easily keep by the dog's side. Most greyhounds seem to cope quite well with lots of encouragement. Some even manage without training at all! Plain wooden stairs seem to cause the most problems - covering the treads with carpet will often give a greyhound the extra confidence needed. Back

Separation Anxiety is a general term that can cover everything from barking and whining to destroying your home when you are away at the shops or at work. I'll try to treat each symptom separately - but the proper introduction of your pet greyhound to your home environment is critical if separation anxiety is to be kept to a minimum. Greyhounds are very intelligent and soon pick up the correct habits if shown correctly. It is a good idea to leave a radio on for comfort while you are away. Most kennels do this as it also reduces the noise when a visitor arrives. As all of your home is totally strange to the retired greyhound then a gradual introduction to everything should be taken. I do recommend that if at all possible the dog should be adopted at the beginning of a long holiday to give time to this crucial introduction. Obviously avoid holidays that may include noisy celebrations. As most of the following symptoms occur when the dog is left alone it is very important to make him confident to cope in your absence. Remember a greyhound has never been more than a few feet from another greyhound in its entire life. Please also remember a change of circumstances may make your dog very stressful and start to exhibit separation anxiety. Examples are - work shift changes - holidays - redecorating or rebuilding to name a few.

AVOIDING SEPARATION ANXIETY

Many adopters are under the misapprehension that because greyhounds spend many hours in kennels during their racing careers they can be brought home and left for hours on end by themselves. This is not the case, Greyhounds love company either human or that of other dogs, and although they can be left for short periods (and longer in time) you cannot expect to bring a dog home one day and then leave them whilst you go to work nine to five the following day without finding the dog is stressed and has probably whined and barked and maybe even had an accident or chewed.

In the kennels greyhounds are normally in pairs (a dog and a bitch) they sleep together, and exercise together. During the day the kennel staff are continually up and down feeding, grooming, paddocking the dogs, so they are used to company, both two-legged and four-legged.

Once your greyhound comes home he or she will usually appreciate all the home comforts, although strange items such as televisions, mirrors and hoovers may unnerve them at first (one dog we homed became addicted to Coronation Street!). They will love the idea of having several rooms to explore and the regular walks in the local park or woods. Routine is important, everything is new and depending on your dog's temperament, either an adventure or a little frightening.

Even if you do not need to go out, do leave your dog for approximately five or 10 minutes to build up his confidence, that although you leave you will be returning. If all is well on your return then be sure to praise your dog and give him a titbit, he will not mind your leaving half as much if he thinks something pleasant will happen on your return - something he will enjoy. Build up the times to be left gradually - increasing approximately 20 minutes more each time.

If you do go to work be sure to arrange for some time off to coincide with the time your dog comes home, this is a new member of the family and needs to be welcomed and "settled in".

If you are leaving a dog for more than three or four hours you should arrange for someone to call in either to let him or her into the garden or take them for a walk, and give them either a meal or a titbit to break up the day. If dogs are to be left for longer periods we do usually suggest you adopt a pair, but, even then a settling in period must be allowed for.

Greyhounds are easier and more adaptable than many other breeds, but they cannot be expected to "know" your return, they need to be guided and taught what is expected of them. Back

Whining and Barking may be caused by excitement, guarding, or anxiety. I've found little to reduce excitement barking or whining except to totally ignore it. This can cause the dog to become less excited and so reduce the noise! Anxiety whining or barking is generally caused by the dog trying to communicate with his "lost" pack. It may be possible to reduce barking by use of a special collar which releases a citrus spray distracting the dog and stopping him barking. There is also another device which should never - repeat never - be used - a collar which gives the dog an electric shock. This inflicts pain to no real purpose. Guard barking can normally be controlled by a consistent approach. If you have taught them to 'sit' or 'down' then directly you reach the door, the command of say 'sit' will distract them enough to stop the barking. My dogs will stop barking when I say so. Luckily greyhounds do not usually bark un-necessarily, we've had one such case returned to the kennels in recent years. Back

Chewing is a natural behavior and must be directed to appropriate objects. It is not normally a good idea to give an old article of clothing as the dog will not be able to differentiate between his chew and your shoe! If your dog chews furniture or walls in your absence then spraying some distasteful substance on the objects will discourage the behavior - but it needs to be renewed daily until the chewing stops. "Bitter Apple" is a substance which does work eventually but is expensive. It is a good idea to have a special type of chew that is given only when you leave. I give pigs tails - they are enjoyable and last long enough so that I am long gone by the time they are finished. Any inappropriate chewing under supervision can be usually stopped by saying NO and giving a chew as an alternative. If all else fails then there is little alternative but to use a muzzle,. This does not cure the problem, but saves your home from further damage. Some dogs may then eventually become less stressed in your absence and no longer need the muzzle. Personally, I'd sooner obtain another dog to keep the first company. I am not a believer of the cage because all the greyhounds I've known have lived in kennels 5 feet wide 8 feet high and 8 feet deep. If the cage you put the dog in is the same size then fine!! Back

Toilet training is best carried out by initially taking the dog out to a designated area every hour for a few minutes and waiting hopefully for the event to happen. If it does, shower heavy praise on the dog with extra treats! Increase the time between toilet trips. Eventually a designated time after feeding can be sorted out. Dogs should be allowed to go to the toilet immediately after the household wakes in the morning and immediately after feeding. A trip outside last thing at night is also necessary. Remove the water bowl if you are unsure that the dog can cope. But if you are consistent the dog will comply to your wishes providing it is biologically possible! If the dog messes somewhere while you are in the house but didn't see it happen, do not punish the dog. Two reasons for this - one, the dog will not remember that he has messed and two, punishment is not a good training aid - praise works best! Scolding only works if it applied when the misbehavior occurs. If you keep the dog connected to you on a long lead then he will not be able to mess out of sight and the scoldings will work.Equally you should see the tell tale signs of him about to 'go'. He should pace and turn restlessly before squatting, or sniff a corner before lifting his leg. Immediately take him outside and wait. When he goes heap praise upon him.

Bowel problems are often caused by a lack of a consistent regime, although it is important to ensure the problem is not caused by a medical or stress reason. Diarrhea is often caused by diet change. Any continued bout of diarrhea of say three or four days should be referred to a veterinary. Stress can show itself by a normally clean dog suddenly becoming dirty. My dog Ben did this when I brought home Beauty. I thought that it was Beauty as Ben had been clean for a year. I accidentally found out that it was Ben. I honestly took him to one side, arm around neck, and explained gently that I still loved him but Beauty needed a new home - the messes stopped! I was very surprised! Generally however relapses can normally be cured by starting the training again. Changes of circumstances can be suprisingly stressful to dogs.

Greyhounds are normally very clean in the kennels and as they are intelligent they generally are easy to housebreak. However, it is impossible to train a dog to only "go" when you want it to - if the times vary from day to day. I solved this problem before it started at home by installing a dog door! As greyhounds are used to the starting trap it is very easy to train them to go through a dog door - it took mine less than two days to get the idea. My dogs happily go outside to the designated area to relieve themselves. One, Bessie would even go outside to be sick! However, if this is not a possibility then consistent training is the answer. Marking should not be confused with urinating. The former is a message to other dogs (p-mail!) about the perpetrator and is usually done by males but some dominant bitches also mark. The latter is normally caused by lack of understanding and training. Marking is usually a one off problem as the dog soon has his presence stamped on his home just by being there - but be aware that some dogs may re-mark if you have dog visitors. Such lapses are best treated by ignoring the dog and clean up using a biological cleaner. Ordinary detergent just masks the smell to you but not the dog, and the dog may be encouraged to mark again.  Back

RETURNS If a dog has a problem, then the faster it can be treated the easier it is to treat - so get help from the adoption centre as soon as possible. All adoption centres would sooner help you to solve the problem rather than have the dog returned. But PLEASE if the adopted dog becomes impossible for you to live with then ALWAYS return him to the kennels he came from. Do not dump him in the local pound or rescue centre. Dogs who were a serious problem in one household very often settle down very well in another. I could give a number of examples.Back

Greyhound Health

Greyhounds are generally a very healthy breed, with no genetic problems that other pedigree dogs can suffer from such as hip, stomach, eye and breathing troubles. The following problems can occur, but please remember that such problems (except bald thigh syndrome) can occur with any dog.

Teeth - Because of their soft, rich racing diet many greyhounds (if they race until say 5 years old) suffer from poor teeth. Giving raw bones and hard chews can keep their teeth cleaner without too much hassle. Many greyhounds can be trained to accept regular teeth-cleaning. Dogs cope remarkably well with few teeth.

Arthritis - Because of their athletic career greyhounds are prone to arthritis as they get older, as with any athlete. This can be made manageable by regular doses of Glaucosamine and/or a magnetic collar such as Bio-flo. Keeping a dog from being overweight will also make the arthritis easier to bear.

Bald Thigh Syndrome - A number of greyhounds develop a thinning of the fur on the back and sides of the thigh. It is more noticeable on single colour, especially black, dogs. There are possibly two causes, one medical and the other physical. If the dog is normally happy and lively then it is likely to be physical and may be treated by changing it's resting and sleeping arrangements. If the dog is listless and off colour it is likely to be medical. In both cases, the first step is a visit to the Veterinary. There is some indication that it can be caused by stress according to some recent research,

Cancer - There are no statistics, that I know. on the prevalence of cancer in dogs so this information is not directed exclusively at greyhounds. But bone cancers seem to be a not uncommon occurrence - especially in the United States - in older dogs. Treatment seems to expensive and possibly short lived. But dogs can manage very well on three legs! Some cancers, if diagnosed early, are easy and cheap to treat giving years of quality life. Brutus my old GSD cross had an anal tumor that I noticed when it was the size of a pea. A castration and removal of the tumor meant an extra three years of quality life - he died at 20 years old!!

An excellent, though technical, books on all aspects of greyhound health and treatment are 

"Care of the Racing Greyhound" by Blythe Gannon and Craig (ISBN 0 - 9641- 456 - 1 - 8) 

and " "Care of the Racing  and RETIRED Greyhound" by Blythe Gannon and Craig (ISBN 0 - 9641456 - 3 - 4) and ARE highly recommended

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