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Mylars Creation – take your time to avoid any scratches on the good face

a.      Cut Mylars to size. They should be slightly small (2-3 mm) on LE and Tips and then too large at the TE (I add an extra 10mm and square it up as well)

b.      Place Thin Tape markers on outer faces to show positioning of TE, Spars and Hinge pieces as required. 

Mark Drela said in an e-mail ... "I mark all doubler outlines and hinge lines on the outside of the Mylars, using a black permanent marker. They are visible through the lay-up and can be used to position everything. A white sheet on top of the table makes the black lines more visible through the Kevlar". 

c.      Chamfer off the LE and Tips of the Mylars (Over about 10-15mm) to help them wrap round the curves when bagged. I use a Dremel with router attachment clamped to the table with a flat plate clamped to the router face (at a shallow angle). This means the Mylar can be passed by hand through the angle between cutter and plate, chamfering it and producing piles of Mylar slivers (a vacuum cleaner nozzle running near by is a very good idea).
   

d.      Tack glue the Mylars down onto the bench with the inner faces showing (i.e. Tape and chamfered side down).

e.       Wax the Mylars (I use a top brand – Tesco’s floor polish). There is some debate about the best number of coats of wax, but generally more is better. Having said that I’ve not had release problems even with a single coat. Carnauba in the wax ingredients seems good, Silicon in the wax is not good as the Epoxy can fisheye and look bad in contact with Silicon.

f.        If you want a painted finish you can now spray paint the Mylars, but keep it thin and light.