Struck by lightning on the Aiguille du Chardonnet - 12546ft (3824m)

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Introduction
Virtual climb
Maps
Photos 1
Photos 2
Photos 3
Photos 4
Photos 5

Climb account

Triolet warm up
Climb summary
The hazards
To the hut
Bivouac
An early start
The Tour glacier
The snowy cwm
The ice wall
La Bosse
The snowfield
Onto the arete
An icy traverse
To the summit
Leaving summit
Lightning strike
Scorched
Waiting in storm
Moving again
The couloir
The abseils
Hailstorm
Jammed ropes
The rimaye
Crevasses
Hut and down
Hospital
Final thoughts

-Lightning strike

LightningRH

My eyes opened, my face was pressed into some rocks. I was upside down with my head down a rocky slope and I was bent in two, my legs lying awkwardly on top of me. My right arm was pinned under me, my left lay unnaturally behind my back. I couldn't feel or move any of my limbs. In fact I was unable to even tilt my head to see how far I'd fallen. My face felt strange. I didn't know where I was or what had happened.

I was slowly regaining consciousness after having fallen down the mountainside. Shocked, scared and very confused I slowly shifted my eyes to gaze up the rock strewn slope. I looked upwards as far as I was able but I couldn't see the ridge crest. I guessed that I'd fallen some distance. My mind was racing. The fall must have broken my neck.

Mercifully at least I felt no pain. I was really frightened by how badly broken my body must be. Once unconscious I must have tumbled down the mountain like a rag doll. So precipitous is the south face, it was possible that I had fallen 1000ft (610m) or more. I wondered how long it might take JC to get down to me, if he could climb down the rocks at all. I felt very lonely indeed. JC could never rescue me. Whatever happened next, at best it would be many hours before a rescue team could reach me. I might have to spend the night out on the mountainside. I could easily freeze to death. If I was bleeding badly I wouldn't last long. I didn't think I was bleeding but then I felt nothing at all. I fervently hoped that I wasn't. Mentally I steeled myself for whatever ordeal lay ahead and I resolved to do all I could to stay alive till help arrived.

These thoughts occurred in the few seconds immediately after regaining consciousness. As my thinking became more measured, I cast my mind back, trying to force myself to remember what had happened. It took a few seconds but then I remembered a little. I had been standing right on the edge of the south face, but I had been so careful. Had the edge given way? Had I slipped? What on earth happened? While desperately trying to remember, to my surprise, I suddenly heard JC shouting, 'Geoff, are you alive'.

He didn't sound too far away and my heart leapt. I was so glad to hear him and the sound of his voice filled me with hope. If he was still climbing then I had a good chance of making it. If JC could get this close to me then so could a rescue team. But it was frightening that JCs priority was only to determine if I was alive or not. It seemed to confirm my worst fears about how badly hurt I might be. I remembered some more. Yes, I had been standing by the edge of the south face but quite securely. As I then recalled the painful electrical activity we'd experienced earlier I realised that we must have suffered what we most feared; a lightning strike.

I shouted back to JC with difficulty, my face was numb and I couldn't feel my lips to form the words easily... 'yes, but I can't move, I'll have to lie here to recover'. 'Me too' he shouted back. Once again I tried to move and found I could move my toes slightly. It gave me hope that feeling might return to me. A minute or two passed when neither of us spoke, each preoccupied with our own struggles. I was concentrating on trying to move. Then I became aware of a strong smell. Though strangely familiar I couldn't place it straight away. It reminded me of fireworks or something similar. Then I recognised it, the smell of burnt hair. It helped confirm what I'd already guessed had happened. We had been hit by lightning.

I sensed a little more feeling in my leg and I was able to move it slightly. I made my movements very carefully in case I had injuries I just couldn't feel. I found I was able to tilt my head slightly and look further up the slope. I could see the ridge crest just 30ft (10m) away and to my relief saw that I was still tied to JC with our rope. I moved both my legs a bit and tried to bring them below me. My slight movement had started me sliding down the rocks so I ceased my efforts immediately. I slid to a stop. I needed to have my hands working to prevent myself from falling further down the rocks. So I waited, crumpled helplessly, utterly stunned by the enormity of what had happened to me.

JC encouraged me to try and move up to him. He was able to pull a little on the rope and got it tight between us. I tried moving again and was able to wiggle my legs under me and get into a safer position. My efforts seemed to have helped feeling return and I was able to hold the rope weakly with my hands and arms. I spent the next two or three minutes half crawling and half hanging on the rope as I made my way up steep but easy rock. Nothing was working properly and it was a struggle even with JC hauling from above. However as I clawed my way up more feeling returned to my limbs. When I joined JC on the small platform on top of the ridge I was able to grip better with my hands and move both arms and legs. I wasn't aware of any serious injury but my mobility would need to improve greatly if I was going to climb down the mountain.

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