Struck by lightning on the Aiguille du Chardonnet - 12546ft (3824m)

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Introduction
Virtual climb
Maps
Photos 1
Photos 2
Photos 3
Photos 4
Photos 5

Climb account

Triolet warm up
Climb summary
The hazards
To the hut
Bivouac
An early start
The Tour glacier
The snowy cwm
The ice wall
La Bosse
The snowfield
Onto the arete
An icy traverse
To the summit
Leaving summit
Lightning strike
Scorched
Waiting in storm
Moving again
The couloir
The abseils
Hailstorm
Jammed ropes
The rimaye
Crevasses
Hut and down
Hospital
Final thoughts

-The hazards

hazardsRH

Although the Forbes arete on the Aiguille du Chardonnet was apparently a fine mountaineering route, much of the guide book description made me nervous. It warned of a snowy cwm early in the route that 'may be crevassed and threatened by seracs'. The ice ridge to the Chardonnet's crest included a steep 165 ft (50m) icy bulge inclined at 53 degrees. The Forbes arete itself was described as 'narrow, exposed and often corniced'. Even the descent would require several abseils and 'snow conditions could make the climbing conditions precarious after midday'.

I was particularly concerned about the exposure high on the mountain. Exposure makes me really tense. As it was graded harder than any of my previous climbs I didn't know quite how badly I might be affected by the exposure high up. I knew from a climbing friend that some of the rocky towers on the arete are best avoided by moving past on the steep icy slopes beneath them. Those towers are poised at least 1500 ft (460m) above the glacier below and I knew I would be bloody scared on those traverses.

I hoped that we would find excellent climbing conditions on the mountain. Unfortunately that was not to be.

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