Struck by lightning on the Aiguille du Chardonnet - 12546ft (3824m) | ||||||||||||
![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ||||||||
Introduction | ||||||||||||
-The hazards | ||||||||||||
![]() | ||||||||||||
Although the Forbes arete on the Aiguille du Chardonnet was apparently a fine mountaineering route, much of the guide book description made me nervous. It warned of a snowy cwm early in the route that 'may be crevassed and threatened by seracs'. The ice ridge to the Chardonnet's crest included a steep 165 ft (50m) icy bulge inclined at 53 degrees. The Forbes arete itself was described as 'narrow, exposed and often corniced'. Even the descent would require several abseils and 'snow conditions could make the climbing conditions precarious after midday'. I was particularly concerned about the exposure high on the mountain. Exposure makes me really tense. As it was graded harder than any of my previous climbs I didn't know quite how badly I might be affected by the exposure high up. I knew from a climbing friend that some of the rocky towers on the arete are best avoided by moving past on the steep icy slopes beneath them. Those towers are poised at least 1500 ft (460m) above the glacier below and I knew I would be bloody scared on those traverses. I hoped that we would find excellent climbing conditions on the mountain. Unfortunately that was not to be. | ||||||||||||