My Idria Trip l983
It would
not have happened, had we not been to Denmark early summer and
husband being ill there. I honestly only said in fun, that after
nursing him, I needed another holiday. And bless him, he asked
where I wanted to go. Idria came to mind and he agreed. This time
he would stay at home, as he did hear about Idria lace before.
After all he booked the trip to Denmark, not telling me,
otherwise I would have mentioned that there they don’t say
Danish , but Tonder lace. He had an aversion to lace, because in
his opinion it was a waste of time doing it. I soon changed his
mind, but that is another story.
Booking
the trip was easy and so I set off for a very long train ride.
PARIS, alas it was night and nothing to see, on to Switzerland
and in the morning past the lakes in Italy. Train stopped at
Verona but the” Three Men” did not greet us at the
station. End of journey, V E N I C E. I could not believe it. And
what do people do there ? Sight seeing ? No, not Lace Makers.
They go in search of laces as I did. From the station over two
bridges and into the shop. And what a lovely sight. It goes
without saying that I had to buy some pieces.
Back to
the station and on to Ljubljana, arriving shortly after midnight.
The Border- control at Trieste was very interesting and at
times uncomfortable but that is all part of my adventures, when
going behind the “Curtain”.
Saturday
morning and off to explore the town. Found the Three bridges and
from there followed the smell, which lured me onto the open
market. Don’t laugh but I could not resist a handful of
Sauerkraut. Well, I was not the only one that was eating it there
in the open, while looking at unusual herbs.
Next
there were stalls with leatherwork, very tempting but
…….. in the distance I saw lacy things hanging. No, not
bobbin lace but everything was knitted. Lovely tablecloth
but nothing I wanted.
Just as
I was going to the next stall, out came something unusual. An
oval mat, beautiful made and I had no idea what it could be. Of
course our ”conversation” was nil but I had to have
this piece. Price was very low but I had first to go to the bank,
which was closed by the time I got there. I tried to tell her
that I was coming back, showed her that I had only 2ooo Dinar and
her price was 3ooo Dinar. She took my money, handed me the cloth
and I went.
Monday I
returned to the market, handed her the rest of the money and took
a photo of her and her friend. She then gave me a present, a pair
of knitted socks. I then bought a little knitted mat and after
her hug left.
Tuesday
was planned to visit the museum to look at laces, because
Dr. Markova of Bratislava gave me the name of the curator. Alas
she had retired and nobody knew anything about lace but I did not
give up.
Across
the road was a big building, wide open doors and big murals at
the walls. So I went in, at the far end was a desk with uniformed
people standing about. I asked them where the museum was, showing
the address I had. One disappeared and the other went away. Was
that a hint that they could not be bothered or what? I
stood my ground and one came back eventually. He showed me on a
map the same museum where I have come from, but…………
it took quite a time to take it in that I should go round to the
back door and someone will be waiting for me. IT WORKED.
As luck
would have it, the lady did speak German and was busy unpacking
laces which have been sent in for a display. And my eyes popped,
seeing all those lovely pieces. No, they did not just make tape
lace. Alas I was not allowed to take any photos but she insisted
that I would go to Idria. I promised and the following day I was
off.
No
trains to Idria, only a bus. So paid the driver and sat in front
ready for the next adventure. The mountains I saw in the
distance from the town came ever nearer and than it happened, we
were climbing up, sometimes the road got narrower, which was a
bit frightening. At last a sign, that we are on the outskirt of
Idria, the driver turned to me, IDRIA he said, I nodded, he
stopped the bus, out I got and there was nothing to see of Idria.
I waved, hoping he would stop, but I only got a wave back.
Eventual
I saw a restaurant, ordered coffee which turned out to be mainly
ground and little water. I asked the way to the lace school, got
the direction, but was offered a lift into the town. Was taken to
the wrong school, which was closed, so decided to find a shop
where I could buy some lace. I was in luck there was a shop and
in the window was one piece of lace displayed.
Hoping
for more I went in and found that the young lady could speak a
lot of German. She told me that her mother in law was a lace
maker and if she would get permission from the boss, she would
take me to her. Little did I know that that meant having to climb
even higher. Mother in law was very nice, invited me into her
house, and when told what I have come for, was pleased to show me
her laces. Difficulties arose, when my guide left and we could
only communicate with sign language. The laces were very nice
and a feast for my eyes. Then came a surprise. She shouted to her
“next door neighbour”, she apparently invited us to
come. Little did I know that that meant, we had to go down the
hill first and then up again, but it was all worth it.
This
lady spoke little German and told me that she makes the lace and
sells it in Italy.
After
seeing the laces, out came the patterns and of course I had to
have some. Trouble was that she had to get copies and only goes
once a month into Ljubjana and who could blame her. So I paid and
hoped to get all I liked.
Next
adventure was to be the visit to the lace school. Found it. I met
two teachers and many schoolgirls, very quiet doing their laces.
When the teachers went to get me some patterns, I looked at what
the girls were doing and gave them a bobbin each. When the
teachers came back, my bobbins were nowhere to be seen.
Pity
nobody told me where the museum was, would have liked to see it,
but time was getting on and I had to go back by bus again. What
an informative if exhausting day I had, one I will never forget.
The patterns arrived about 3 month later, I nearly gave up hope.