MILFORD TRACK

Not a tramp even though strangely it is classed as one of the 'Great Walks', it's a very popular trip. We arranged to go on the 3 day canoeing trip from Whakahoro to Pipiriki (there is a 5 day, 145kms option available as well, starting from Taumarunui) with Blazing Paddles (love the name) at Taumarunui. We arranged this at the Taumarunui campsite where we were staying. Cost each was 113$ plus 25$ for the Park pass. The cost included transport to and from both ends, canoes and all equipment. We opted for the 3 day option because a) we hadn't been in a canoe for over 30years and b) the best scenery supposedly is after Whakahoro. You can also go on various guided trips and one day options as well. There are a number of operators in the area.

Weather warm and sunny all day. Transport at 09:00hrs for the hour's trip, mainly on gravel road, to Whakahoro. There is a DOC hut here. A young Swiss couple with us on the bus. Large guided party with Canoe Safaris waiting to set off when we arrived. Some brief instructions then we set off before them - gingerly at first. Had a slight tip up (we were still trying to get co-ordinated) at the first easy rapids section, water very shallow, bailed out and restarted. Into the wilderness now, mainly bush forested gorges - no road access now until we reached Pipiriki. At the first major rapids with a choice of two channels, we followed 2 kayaks which was a mistake. They could turn sharply, we couldn't in our Canadian open canoe. Result - we rammed into a tree trunk, driven into it by the current, and tipped up dramatically. One upside down canoe and the two of us floating down the river. It took some time to get to the bank and bail all the water out and recover ourselves. Luckily all the containers(with tent, clothes, food etc) had been held in by the ropes. We should have consulted our river map - the right way was the other channel. We lost a paddle (they give you a spare) and a pair of sunglasses. Found ourselves a nice rest spot later on for some lunch. No further incidents and after 37kms we arrived at the John Coull Hut, about 6-7hrs travel. Good camping area by the hut with cooking shelter, table, sink and water pump - only recently completed, all dug out by hand. About 16 of us camping and others in the hut. Possums about and also glow worms. A very pleasant evening after an eventful day.

First rest opportunity

Camp area by John Coull Hut

Bridge to nowhere

Landing at Tieke Marea

The maori family at Tieke Marea

Another warm and sunny day after a cloudy start. Set off before 09:00hrs. Paddled on and off with a father and son & daughter who had done this trip before and knew the rapids - it saved us having to consult the map. Quite hard paddling at times in the slow water between the rapids. The river runs a lot between rocky gorges with no easy exit if you needed it! The only iffy times were when a jet boat came past and generated waves which then bounced off the cliff walls - the best (and the only safe) way is to turn into the waves and sit there until they subsided. The jet boat drivers (we met about 6 boats or so over the 3 days) would slow down to lessen the impact. Some minor rapids and one or two dicey moments but we stayed in today. About 2 hrs plus took us to Mangapurua Landing where we went on a 40mins walk to the 'bridge to nowhere'. Impressive location for a concrete bridge built in the 1930's - too late to revive the fortunes of isolated farmsteads in the area. Only 30kms today before we arrived at Tieke Marea by mid-afternoon. A Maori settlement set up in 1993 to reclaim Maori land. Very friendly father, daughter and 2 young children; 2 dogs and various chickens. We were provided with a typical Maori welcome; you approach through archway to Maori totem pole; short song, shake hands and rub noses. Scattered tent-like buildings;good camping area; hot shower available; free tea; evening meal and breakfast provided - you give donations(money, food). A great evening of stories and self -introductions from everybody - a delightful place.

Capsizing time

Final safe landing

Warm to hot sunny day, quite cloudy. Didn't leave until 10:00hrs after a lazy breakfast of pancakes and toast and quite a lot of chatting as well. We were told the biggest rapids were today; luckily the water levels were quite low so they turned out to be ok. We met some guys a week later who experienced severe rain at John Coull hut a few days after us with the result that the river rose 6 metres! (can you believe that! - coming from England we still can't). Some canoe intructors roped a number of canoes together and they floated down the river without a paddle stroke needed, taking only 2 hrs or so to get to Tieke Marea - they only had to dodge floating tree trunks and an odd dead cow! Some canoes had got washed away overnight and people had to be taken out by jet boat. We managed the first few rapids today easily enough then we came a real cropper on a pressure wave section, as did nearly everybody else(see photo). Some die-hards tried it again - and still came out. Good fun. We arrived at Pipriki by 14:00hrs for our transport back to Taumarunui. A thoroughly recommended trip and our shoulders didn't ache too much though we had one or two bruises from our crash on day 1.