COAST to COAST WALK - DAY 2 ENNERDALE BRIDGE to Seatoller: 13miles |
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| We woke up to an awful day
in prospect and we finished up wearing our jackets and
overtrousers all day again. At least we could say that we
walked in shorts as we wore them under our overtrousers.
It started off warmish and showery and then it just went
downhill from then, getting cooler, wetter and windier as
the day went on. A pity really as this is a very
beautiful walk in fine weather. We felt sorry for the
Americans we met today who had come all this way not to
get any views. We left about 09:00hrs calling off at the
rather run down Post Office which had very few provisions
indeed but was able to supply home made sandwiches (which
were good) so with those and some crisps, chocolate and
shortbread biscuits we had our fuel for the day. We also
had a flask with us that was filled with hot water - we
had a jar of coffee. Be prepared and don't rely on this
shop for your day's food. It was all very level walking
for most of the first 7 miles or so as we took the minor
road down to Ennerdale Water and then the lakeside path
alongside the south side of the lake.........
Heading alongside Ennerdale Water
That's where we are going - to the end of Ennerdale and it doesn't look good does it. There were lots of other walkers out today despite the weather; looked like most of them were 'Coast to Coasters' - going in both directions. At the end of Ennerdale Water we were on the forestry road for 4 miles past Ennerdale Youth Hostel onto Black Sail Hostel - a lovely location for both hostels. The road was a bit boring as there were no real views to be had until we got closer to Black Sail Hut and we had our hoods up and there was nowhere really to sit down and have our lunch - we had to snatch a quick 10mins in the rain sat on a wet rock to eat our sandwiches and have a quick cup of coffee.
Drudging along in the pouring rain towards Black Sail Hut
Back Sail Hostel - it's a steep uphill after here up Loft Beck to the left beyond the hut There was quite a group of walkers around the hut; going in both directions. The Hostel warden had passed us earlier on the forestry road in his car bringing extra provisions in. We met a couple later on this trip who had stayed at Black Sail Hostel tonight and said that the evening meal was excellent. To get over to Honister Hause and down to Borrowdale we had a steep climb via Loft Beck to do and by now the wind had picked up and the rain was still coming down heavy. It was a 'test of character' clambering up alongside the beck up to about 2,000ft and then negotiating the 1.5mile through the mist and then down to Honister Hause. Luckily the wind was at our backs and the route was very well cairned so there was very little chance of getting lost. We found out later that one American guy got himself lost up here before finding his way back down to Black Sail Hut where he stayed the night before continuing the next day. There was a guy coming the other way up there ,head down, battling his way into the wind and rain - so no matter what situation you are in there, be thankful, because there is always somebody in a worse situation!
This sheep doesn't appear to mind the weather, stood there, admiring the view When we got down to Honister Hause at 15:10hrs there was a cafe open at the Honister Slate site but our dilemma was this: we had no accommodation booked in Borrowdale and intended to get a bus into Keswick and then return by bus to restart the walk in the morning. The bus leaves Seatoller at 15:55hrs and that's 1-2 miles away- we had to forgo any hot drinks and leg it down the valley. We got there with 10mins to spare and 30mins later we were in Keswick and 20mins later we were booked into a B & B, a short walk from the town centre.
View from our bedroom window - the rain has stopped now; but for how long? We went to the Kings Head Hotel in the town centre for our evening beers and meal and podged ourselves with large portions of starters and main course. |
