THE EAST COAST & A LOOP VIA ARTHURS PASS & THE LEWIS PASS
Picton to Pedalers Rest Bunkhouse: 84kms Main road for 25kms to Blenheim - busy road but wide shoulder to ride on. Another 25kms to Seddon, less busy roads now. Some climbing but nothing severe. Farmland with distant views of the hills. Campsite and shop at Seddon. More undulations to Ward township with shop/cafe and campsite/cabins. First views of the sea as the road descends to the coast. The bunkhouse (sleeps 6 only), but room for tents is 1km down a gravel road - signposted from the main road.
Pedalers Rest to Kaikoura: 74kms
Kaikoura Beach
This east coast road is suprisingly quiet - mainly tourist traffic - and quite beautiful in places as it follows the railway line between the sea and the hills. We were lucky, with a back wind, and reached Kaikoura by early afternoon. Cafe at Kekerengu & campsite/cabins at Waipapa Bay on the way. Went past a huge seal colony - hundreds of them and unfortunately one dead one on the road, presumably hit by a car. All facilities and accommodation types at Kaikoura. Was a old whaling settlement, now the major attraction is whale watching. We liked this place - mountain views from the seashore and a pleasant walk around the headland. Kaikoura to Ashley Gorge by bus and riding: 45kms
We took the bus to Rangiora about 150kms away - used Atomic Shuttle service, total cost about £17. The road itself had some hilly sections as it climbed away from the coast - first major township, after 75kms away is Cheviot, shops/cafes, hotel/campsite with cabins. More gentle roads then through open countryside for 55kms to Waipara where the roads become busier. From Rangiora we took a minor quiet easy road on the north side of the river to Ashley Gorge - campsite and cabins, small shop.
Ashley Gorge to Arthurs Pass, riding and bus: 40kms
Another very hot day. Initially an undulating road past Waimakariri Gorge, to Oxford, shops/cafe and then a long, straight and quite busy road to Sheffield (40kms). Cafe, campsite and youth hostel here. The weather was just too hot now and with another hilly 80kms to go and little accommodation options in between we took the bus again. A bit nervous about the bikes this time as they went on a rack on the front of the bus! Superb scenery on this section over Porter’s Pass 944’. Arthurs Pass township has a shop, motel/backpackers and a good small youth hostel where we stopped.
Arthurs Pass to Moana: 66kms
Approach to Arthurs Pass
Some steep climbing to get over the pass 5kms away at 922’. New viaduct being constructed to avoid the steep, difficult hairpins on the descent. After that a more gentle descent down a widening forested valley. Cafe/hotel at Otira and tavern at Jacksons further down. Turned off onto quiet minor road through old farmland areas onto Moana - a small holiday place in a pleasant location by the lake with mountain views. Hotel/motels and campsite/cabins with a store.
Moana to Reefton: distance 86kms but actual riding only 44kms
Reefton
Quiet undulating road to Stillwater (23kms), hotel here but shut when we passed. Major road, but relatively quiet ascending a broad valley (reminded us of Scotland in the wet, grey misty condiitons we were getting) past Ngahere (tavern and small campsite), and onto Ahaura (tavern and store). Whilst having a drink here sheltering from the heavy rain we were offered a lift to Reefton - no discussion required, we accepted. The road passes through Ikamatua (backpackers place here) and then a short climb over the Reefton Saddle at 251’ before descending to Reefton, an old gold mining centre with plenty of interest in the area to spend a day, so we did. Interesting fact: Reefton was the first place in the southern hemisphere to get electricity (in 1880’s) but now has a bit of a run-down look about it. To give you an idea of cheap living, we got a cabin for £8 and had a full roast dinner in the local tavern for £2 each. Tip - if two or more of you are having a beer then its cheaper to ask for a jug and two glasses.
Reefton to Mauria Springs: 60kms
A lovely undulating ride through the steep bush forested Inangahua Gorge gently climbing to the Rahu Saddle at 676’ before a short descent to Springs Junction (44kms), motel/store and cafe. More traffic from here as main Nelson road joins it. We had our first puncture here. Road then climbs more towards the Lewis Pass. We stopped at Mauria Springs - hotel and camping field (beware the sandflies) available - no kitchen facilities but the cafe is open until 21:00hrs. Recommend the rib-eye steak. £6 for the site gives you free access to the hot sulphur springs - smelly but a relaxing spot after a hot day in the saddle.
Mauria Springs to Hanmer Springs: 80kms
Nearing the top of Lewis Pass
Steady 6kms climb to Lewis Pass at 863’ and then descent and one short climb before the turn off to Hanmer Springs. Scenery reminded us of Scotland, in the dry this time. No facilities at all until you reach Hanmer Springs - shops and accommodation. This is a major thermal springs centre. We stayed here 3 days just resting, enjoying the surroundings and catching up on our chores - temperatures in the 30’s. Conical hill viewpoint is worth the walk up.
Hanmer Springs to Amberley: 90kms
Hanmer Springs
Easy 35kms to Culverden, store,motel and cafe. Some short climbing on way to Waikari, cafe. Picturesque limestone gorge on other side of the Weka Pass on way to join the main road at Waipari. A lot more traffic now as we continued to Amberley. We were now in major population areas (by NZ standards) 50k before Christchurch. Got a tent site at Amberley Motels for £4, small kitchen but it had a free indoor swimming pool where we could cool off. Taverns, cafes and shops nearby.
Amberley to Christchurch: 50kms
Busy roads into the centre but a shoulder for 80% of the way. Journey’s end as we then spent a few days here doing the tourist bit before our flight home.
