Fox Glacier to The Forks:62kms(including a visit to Lake Matheson)
Franz Josef Glacier
A mainly forested ride with some good mountain views. Steady climb to Cook Saddle 414’ then two further shorter climbs before descending to Franz Josef tourist township. Cafes and all accommodation. The Franz Josef Glacier is 7kms away, another gravel road and a walk along the old glacial bed. Undulating road after Franz Josef for 15kms, past Lake Mapourika (DoC campsite here) and turn off for 3k to The Forks, a bunkhouse and small campsite. We got the bunkhouse to ourselves for a £1 more than a tent site. Okarito 10k away by the coast is a worthy diversion - small campsite and youth hostel there but no shops. The lagoon is the breeding ground for white herons - trips available. Population of Okarito is about 100 but used to be 18,000 in the Gold Rush days! The Forks to Pukekura: 72kms
A wet day so penty of cafe stops. Easy 15kms to Whatoroa, cafe/motels. 2km climb through forest over Mt Hercules to Hari-Hari (50kms), cafe and motel (special cyclists rates). Scenery not so impressive but easy riding through mainly farmland to Pukekura - 2 cafes, 4 cabins. One of the cafes (open until 20:00hrs) has also got 2 caravans available - cost us £7 for the caravan and £12 for 2 x 3 course meals. Camping also possible. Spot the giant sandfly outside one of the cafes!
Pukekura to Hokitika: 52kms
Easy riding to Ross, cafes, accommodation and campsite. An interesting old gold-mining town with a small museum - we spent a couple of hours there. Hokitika is a further 30kms on. The largest town since Wanaka, 450kms away, and the first banks and pharmacies since then. All accommodation types available. Hokitika has some interesting old buildings and a museum.
Hokitika to Punakaiki: 90kms
Flat to undulating road alongside coast and quite busy at times to Greymouth 40kms away. Tavern at Kumara junction. Greymouth is the largest West Coast town, has all facilities and accommodation types. We did not find it particularly attractive though. Good coastal scenery after Greymouth as road undulates between the bush cliffs and the beaches. Tavern at Barrytown before reaching Punakaiki, campsite with cabins, other accommodation and a tavern with good meals.Pancake Rocks with blowholes is the local visitor attraction here, cafe and visitor centre. Best seen at high tide with a strong south westerly blowing which was exactly as we saw it with the rain pouring down - very atmospheric.
Punakaiki to Westport: 60kms
The West Coast
Short day after spending time at the blowholes. Undulating road alongside sea and bush cliffs - one of the best West Coast sections. Climbs away up to Charleston - cafe and campsite with cabins. Less impressive scenery as road undulates to Westport - large township with all facilities and accommodation types. Old gold-mining trading centre now dealing with coal. Westport to Murchison: 102kms
Road winds through quiet Buller Gorge with minor rises only, wooded hills and one short section under rock overhang. Reminded us of the Ardeche/Cevennes area in France.Tavern after 25kms. Shop/cafe at Inangahua after 46kms. More climbing now as road enters the Upper Buller Gorge past evidence of major earthquake in 1968 and then past the longest walkway suspension bridge in NZ - it costs you to go across. Last 15km to Murchison are easier. Shops/cafes, 2 campsites and other accommodation.
Murchison to St Arnaud: 62kms
Towards St Arnaud
Easy road past Owen Tavern at 20kms then undulating. Quieter road taken from Kawatiri junction (nothing there apart from a picnic area and information on old railway line from Nelson. Scenery more barren and open now, hills less forested - we are in the Nelson Lakes region. St Arnaud is 25kms away. Shop/cafe, Small campsite by lake or camping available at backpackers place. St. Arnaud to Tapawera: 53kms
Very quiet roads with some climbing through forested areas and Golden Downs hamlet - no facilities.. You can turn right after here to go to Nelson (90kms from St Arnaud). We carried on to Tapawera, past a tavern at road junction after 45kms. Intended to carry on but the rains came down. Small campsite with cabins and cafe/shops.
Tapawera to Kaiterteri: 64kms
Easy road with one short climb before following the valley to Motueka. Initially forested hills before valley widens out and the market gardens appear. No facilities until Motueka - a large township. Kaiterteri is 15kms away around the headlands. This is a main holiday beach area - very beautiful with a campsite by the beach but avoid it in the high summer. Very quiet when we were there in early March.
Kaiteriteri/Abel Tasman National Park
Tonga Bay,Abel Tasman
We had a walking day using a water taxi from here to Tonga Bay and a walk on the Abel Tasman track around the bush forested headlands past golden sandy beaches - an absolutely gorgeous tropical looking area on a blue sky day. Walked it in our touring shoes - no problems in dry weather. Water taxi back from Torrent Bay - total cost about £20 each. Another highlight of the holiday. Sea Kayaking is also popular along this coastline. Kaiterteri to Pohara: 64kms
We left our tent on site and rode over Takaka Hill 791’ - steady climb with cafe before the top. Good views back to the coast and Nelson. Steeper, hairpinned roads on the west side and onto Takaka - cafes/shops. 9km down side road to Pohara campsite/shop by beach. We used a cabin here. This area up to Farewell Spit is the Golden Bay peninsular and is very scenic but not as we felt as grand as other areas. Unfortunately there is no other road out - you would have to retrace your route.
Pohara to Kaiterteri via Pupu Springs: 40kms
Visited Pupu Springs - one of the largest freshwater springs in the world, 14,000litres a sec. (apparently thats about 40 bath tubs full). Nothing much to see though apart from crystal clear water. Rain started to set in for day. Caught bus back over Takaka Hill - total cost £15 (£7 for the bikes) for about 50kms.
Kaiterteri to Nelson: 66kms
Easy roads from Motueka but there is a shoulder to ride on for some of the way. A limited facilities campsite at Ruby Bay - though it was a good spot for lunch by the bay. Roads busier now through Richmond to Nelson - a pleasant large town, with one of the best climates in NZ - all facilities and accommodation types. Note that all shops etc tend to shut by 14:00hrs on a Saturday.
Nelson to Havelock: 72kms
Havelock
Flat 8kms by the coast before a short climb over Gentle Annie Saddle then a further longer winding climb through forests over Whangamoa Saddle approx 350’ , 12kms descent and flat before 2kms climb over Rai Saddle and descent to Rai - cafe. Gentle roads then past Pelorus Bridge, cafe, and onto Havelock - a renowned centre for green mussels and also for boat trips on the sounds. Shops/cafes, campsite with cabins and Youth Hostel - a pleasant location by the water. We are now in the Marlborough Sounds area - hundreds of miles of winding coastline with forested hills, unfortunately very few tarmac roads around some of the remoter areas. You could spend a whole holiday exploring this area. Havelock to Te Mahia(Kenepuru Sound): 35kms
One of those very hot days where we just took it easy and stopped by lunchtime at a beautiful small campsite by the waters edge. Took the Picton road, called the Queen Charlotte Scenic Drive ( and with good reason), past Linkwater (hotel/shop) and then left turn on narrow, winding hilly road alongside Kenepuru Sound. Hard work at times but worth it for the views . Drinks available at The Folly - house and garden. Te Mahia is a hotel/motel/small campsite with a small shop by the lakeside off the road - has its own private shingle beach - sheer luxury for £7.
Te Mahia to Picton via Portage and ferry: 22kms
More up and down road, with superb views, to Portage - hotel/shop/cafe and campsite. Our exploration of the sounds stopped further down after the tarmac ended and the gravel road became too much hard work - a pity - this is a very beautiful area with very little traffic. A number of DoC campsites scattered around. Note: when a NZealander says a road is sealed, that does not mean it is tarmac, only that it has hard packed sand and gravel. A tarmac road is tar-sealed - we learnt from this. Short climb over to Torea Bay to pick up a boat to Picton - we had rung up earlier to confirm. Total cost £12 for a 2hr trip including visits to other bays and some feeding of the local big Snapper fish. Catamaran handled by one bloke who also took fares, loaded goods on board and gave commentary - free tea and coffee as well - this was a lovely trip and a great way to enter Picton - the ferry point for crossing to the North Island. All facilities and accommodation types here.
