Te Anau to Dunedin & across to the West Coast

Te Anau to Tuatepere: 104kms

Lake Manapouri

Easy 20kms to Manapouri with accommodation, cafe/shop etc and a beautiful view across the lake to the Kepler mountain range. We then followed Route 99, the Southern Scenic Route. A very quiet road with only one real climb of 2kms up Jericho Hill. No facilities after Manapouri .

There are toilets and water available at Blackmount Community Centre. Further down we turned off the road to see the old Clifden Suspension bridge (original river crossing), it's worth the short diversion. Scenery becomes more pastoral as you move away from the mountains. Tuatapere is a small township with a store and takeaway food place, a couple of small campsites and there is other accommodation available.

Tuatapere to Invercargill: 90kms

On the road climbing away from Colac Bay, a very pleasant spot with a campsite, a small store and a tavern.

Initially down to the coast with views of the Fiordland mountains to the west. Through Orepuki with a small basic store and tavern. A hillier section before reaching Colac Bay. Spot the bent trees on the way, it can get very, very windy down here. Riverton further on by the estuary has shops/cafes/accommodation etc. Roads get busier the closer you get to Invercargill, the main town on the south coast, laid out in a grid pattern with low buildings - a bit like a American mid-west town. Two campsites, both near the centre and with cabins. Very interesting and free exhibition centre in Queens Park - local history and also of Antartica

Invercargill to Curio Bay: 81kms

Still following the Southern Scenic route through Gorge Road (small cafe here, but only open Sat/Sun afternoons) onto Fortrose, no facilities. Turned off onto minor hillier road then to Otara, no facilities. Note: we only passed 1 small store at Mokotua after 25k all day today after leaving Invercargill. Gravel starts about 5kms after Otara and there is 14kms of it to Curio Bay, apart from 1 short steep downhill it was all easily rideable. Curio Bay, or Porpoise Bay as it seems to be called locally is a beautiful location with a small campsite (no cabins) with a small store on the headland. The pitches are well sheltered within the flax plants. This a famous spot for seeing, and possibly swimming with Hector’s Dolphins, unique to NZ. The small yellow-eyed penguins also come ashore in the evening on the adjacent fossil bay, a protected area.

A view of Porpoise Bay. The campsite is immediately behind the photographer. A beautiful spot to spend a day or two, if the weather is fine.

Formal accommodation appeared very sparse on this route via Curio Bay, you would need to consider taking roads further inland if not camping. Chaslands at about 110k from Invercargill has some accommodation.

Curio Bay to Papatowai: 50kms

A short day because of the heat and the gravel roads. Gravel road to Waikawa, cafe here and a long chat with the owner. Rejoined tarmac on the Southern Scenic Route which climbs into the bush forest and undulates as it becomes gravel again. Note: this may change, the gravel is slowly being replaced by tarmac in this area. Diversion to see cathedral caves (only accessible at low tide) a 10min bush walk to a beautiful sandy beach.

This the narrow gravel road road section from the main gravel road to get to the start of the walk to the caves. Typical of the gravel roads in this area, surrounded by the bush forest which also goes all the way down the fantastic beaches . A reasonable cycling surface in good dry weather.

Back on the main road we came across a tarmac section, shouted hurrah and carried on - to be disappointed 2kms further down when the gravel re-appeared and shortly after a 2km gravel climb, quite steep in places, up to a viewpoint overlooking Tautuku Bay before descending to Papatowai. Store and good campsite with cabins. In all about 23kms of gravel road today. We loved this area - The Catlins. Not as popular as the other South Island scenic attractions but a lovely feeling of isolation with the scattered hamlets, the beautiful beaches and the bush forest.

Papatowai to Kaka Point: 45kms

Nugget Point Lighthouse

An even shorter day because of the heat and we wanted to linger in this area. Undulating road then 5km climb on way to Owaka, cafe/store. Campsite with cabins at Pounawea, 4kms away. Further short climb and descent then we turned off on 8kms of easy gravel road to Kaka Point, a surfers beach. Store/cafe, small campsite with cabins and other accommodation. Nugget Point headland and lighthouse about 8kms away on a gravel road was a worthwhile diversion.

Kaka Point to Balcutha: 43kms

We didn’t leave until after lunch after riding to Nugget Point and back. Easy road to Balcutha, a large town with all facilities. Campsite with cabins in town. We did not find anything of real interest here. Booked our train trip from Dunedin at the local travel agents here and also organised the bus journey (at the local information centre) into Dunedin for the morning trip.

Balcutha to Dunedin Peninsular (Portobello): Bus then cycle 22kms from Dunedin

The main Invercargill to Dunedin road passes through Balcutha, there is no alternative to get to Dunedin about 80kms away). Milton about 20k on this road has accommodation as also does Lake Waihola, a further 24kms on. Here you could take the road to the coast, gravel for some of the way, and then onto Dunedin (60kms from Lake Waihola). We didn’t fancy the main road, so caught the bus (an old 1960’s Bedford), total cost with bikes about £17 - booked at the local Tourist Information place.The winding road along the peninsular to Portobello was enjoyable. The peninsular head 11kms further on has an Albatross colony and visitor centre and a large seal colony on the nearby bay.

The beautiful Victorian railway station at Dunedin, worth a look round even if you are not going on a train.

Dunedin to Middlemarch: Train plus cycle ride of 41kms

Dunedin has a beautiful Victorian railway station, a good museum nearby and a number of well preserved Victorian and Edwardian buildings and is well worth spending a little time there. To avoid the main roads out we took the Taieri Gorge tourist railway to Pukerangi. One 2 hr trip a day, total cost £22, bikes went free. Thoroughly recommended.

It goes up through gorges where there are no roads and you can stand between the restored carriages to get excellent views. It also stops a couple of times for you to get out. Pukerangi is in the middle of nowhere on top of the Otago plateau.

It is 20kms (including 7kms of easy gravel) from Pukerangi to Middlemarch, store, motel and campsite (Blind Billy’s) with cabins - the kitchen/eating area here comprises two restored rail carriages - we had the place to ourselves.

Middlemarch to Ranfurly: 67kms

This area to Alexandra is the Otago plateau and it can get very hot indeed in the summer, we experienced over 35 degrees C on one day. The Otago railtrack from Middlemarch to Alexandra for cyclists is currently being developed(update: fully open in 2001). Only a few sections open when we passed and they looked quite rough in places, probably ok for mountain bikes. Some impressive sections though going over old wooden viaducts. We did not see any shops/cafes until Ranfurly. Some hilly sections on a very quiet road with very little shade. Ranfurly has shops/cafes, a campsite with cabins and other accommodation. An excellent visitors centre in the old railway station. Naseby 15kms away is the original town of this area and has a number of old interesting buildings, also a campsite with cabins. We were on the Upper Maniototo plain, which had not had any real rain for 18mths - they had grass fires a week after we were there.

Ranfurly to Alexandra: 92kms

Some minor climbing but generally downhill and level. Taverns at Wedderburn, then Becks Hotel after 44kms and at Lauder and shops/cafes and campsite at Omakau before descending to Alexandra. We liked all of this sparsely populated and quiet area from Pukerangi to Alexandra. Not fantastic scenery, just wide open spaces. Alexandra is a major town with all forms of accommodation etc.

Alexandra to Cromwell: 42kms

Didn’t leave until lunchtime. Clyde, 10kms away, has some interesting old buildings, shops, cafes. The museums though do not open until 14:00hrs. Undulating road then past massive Clyde dam and resevoir to Cromwell. You could easily do this stretch to Wanaka in one day.

Cromwell to Wanaka: 57kms

Lake Wanaka

No real hills though the road was busier then what we had been used to. Tavern and small campsite at Luggate after 40kms. Wanaka has all facilities and types of accommodation and a picturesque location by the lake and mountains, a nice spot for a lazy day or two.

Wanaka to Lake Hawea: 21 kms

Our shortest day. A galeforce head wind made it impossible to continue so we stopped at the campsite by the lake using a cabin for the first time - excellent kitchen and rest room here.The original intention was to make for Makarora, cafe/campsite and motel about 64kms from Wanaka.

Lake Hawea to Haast: 127kms

Climb from Lake Hawea

A fantastic scenic day; lakes, snow capped mountains, bush forest and a reasonably quiet road. Goes alongside Lake Hawea with one short climb then climbs over to Lake Wanaka before gently ascending the Makarora valley into the bush forest with a 2km climb to the Haast Pass at 564’. Steep descent in places then a 30k winding ride along the glacial valley. Thunder Creek Falls on the way is a short walk worth doing. Haast township has an excellent campsite/motel and a tavern that serves good meals. Mosquitos and sandflies were in more evidence here. Haast Beach township down the side road has a shop and motel. Westland Visitor Centre about 4k from Haast.

Haast to Jacobs Bay (Pinegrove Motels): 88kms

Climbing into the bush forest

Accommodation limited on this section. Camping possible at Lake Paringa, toilets and water only (beware the sandlies) after 50kms. We phoned ahead to book a cabin at Pinegrove - we later found out they would also take the odd small tent. After crossing the long Haast bridge the road enters the bush forest and there are 3 short steep climbs around the headlands, good sea views as the bush forest comes right down to it. Cafe 2kms after Lake Paringa and another one a further 3kms on. Road meets the sea at Bruce’s Bay - a pleasant spot for a rest. Pinegrove is a further 13kms on, they sell some basic food stuffs.

Jacobs Bay to Fox Glacier: 50kms

Lake Matheson & Mt Cook

An easy morning ride on an undulating road with a number of one way bridges to cross. Make sure you get there well before any cars coming in the opposite direction - they don’t always want to stop. First view of Mt Cook from the west. 6k to the glacier with 4k on gravel then a short walk. Unfortunately you cannot get close up to it unless you take one of the guided glacier walks, impressive none the less, though we preferred the Franz Josef Glacier. Fox township is a tourist spot, cafes etc and accommodation. Good campsite with cabins. Lake Matheson 6k away and then a 3km walk is well worth visiting to get superb reflections of the Mt Cook range in it - depending of course on the weather. We were very lucky on our early morning visit. Cafe there as well.

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