THE CEVENNES REGION & THE SOUTH COAST 1996
A fortnights cycling tour around the Auvergne & Cevennes regions of the Massif Central in late August/early Sept 1996 with 2 friends using hotels. We used the Bolero cycling coach service to get down to Orange and picked it up near Montpellier for the return. Distance covered approx 750mls. We cycle at a leisurely pace and must have our morning and afternoon cafe stops and usually (especially after a hot day in the saddle) finish up with a couple of beers when we finish. We were also riding a French Permanent cycle ride to give the journey some specific aims, as well as collecting more BPF stamps (see 'Across France' article for more info on these BPF stamps). The permanent ride was the 'Escapade des Cevennes' - a 800kms ride around the Cevennes region. Thats why the route wanders around a bit, what with riding the permanent and making deviations to get BPF stamps! 25/8 Orange to Les Vans. Hot sunny day after cool start. 58mls
Towards the Cevennes hills
Dropped off at 06:30hrs by the coach, just getting light as we left. Breakfast coffee stop in Orange before we went via Caderousse then across the River Rhone and onto Bagnols-s-Ceze for another cafe stop and some shopping for lunch. Onto Barjac for early lunch stop through the scenic Gorges de Ceze - 40mls done. Followed a bumpy minor road through Bessas then over a stiff little climb of the Col de la Serre 371' Good views of the Cevenne Hills from the top. Hot now, and after getting little sleep on the coach, we were feeling tired. Stopped at Les Vans at 14:30 and had a couple of beers before finding a hotel in the square. Hotel Bar de la Place: 'cheap (120frs a room, w.c & shower on landing) & cheerful. No restaurant but good breakfast at 16frs. Ate out at Hotel des Cevennes nearby - recommended.
26/8 Les Vans to St Jean du Gard. Cloudy with some initial light rain. Quite warm. 54mls
Took minor D216 road climbing out of Les Vans then through pine forests (lovely pine smells) over Col de la Matte 305' and down to Besseges for our morning coffee stop. D162 over the Col de Trellis 415' and busier roads onto La Grand Combe for lunch stop. More climbing and descending on minor roads now to La Baume - first puncture. Busier roads as we made our way through Anduze(lovely town) and onto St Jean du Gard. The only 1 star hotel was shut so we had to go up market to a 2 star.
Hotel l'Orange: Good rooms with w/c & shower for 230frs. Expensive breakfast at 40frs so we didn't bother. Good meal out for 89frs at the Le Monde restaurant near the supermarket.
27/8 St Jean du Gard to Florac. Rain off & on most of the day, some heavy stuff, but never cold. 55mls
Had a walk around the morning market and a coffee & crossiant (breakfast!) before leaving. Nice road along wooded valley and gorges to l'Estrechure and onto Les Plantiers. Narrow, very quiet D193 road to Col du Pas 833' and round to Col de l'Espinasse 848' Misty hills everywhere. Descent to St Andre de Valborge and a lengthy stop in the local cafe waiting for the heavy rain to stop. Left about 14:30hrs climbing up to Le Pompidou then descending and climbing on very narrow mountain roads and onto Barre des Cevennes. No hotel accommodation available so descended in heavy rain to Florac and stopped at the first hotel we came to. Apart from the rain we had some lovely cycling today on typical Cevenne narrow roads. A favorite area of ours.
Hotel Le Pont Neuf: Modern building with good rooms at 250frs. Meals about 80frs and breakfast at 26frs
28/8 Florac to Meyruis via the Gorges du Tarn. Cool,cloudy then warmer & sunnier. 59mls
Tarn Gorges below St Enimie
Tarn Gorges near Les Vignes
Cool headwind as we headed down the Gorges du Tarn through St Enimie (cafe stop) to La Malene, lunch stop here. Beautiful gorge scenery on the way. At Les Vignes we climbed out of the gorge on the D16, quite steep in places, onto the Causse Mejean. Lovely long distance views up here. Over the highest point at the Col de Reisse 920' and descended into Meyruis, at the head of the Gorges de la Jonte. A contrast today of narrow gorges and the wide open Causse plateau. Hotel Le Sapins: 190frs for room with w/c & shower. No restaurant, breakfast at 26frs.
Above the Tarn Gorges
On the Causse Mejean plateau
29/8 Ascent of Mt Aigoual. Cool wind but sunny and warm out of it. 52mls.
View from Mt Aigoual
A cycling day without the baggage. Easy climb for 10k or so to Col de Perjuret 1028' Further climbing around the hillside to Mt Aigoual - took us nearly 3hrs from Meyruis. Strong cool wind on top - but great views, highest point in the Cevennes. Descended via L'Esperou and round to Col de Faubel 1285' - lunch stop in the warm sunshine out of the wind. More downhill through Camprieu and then a narrower road through the steep sided Gorges du Trevezel. Cafe stop at Treves at the bottom. Lovely climb on the narrow D47 with great views as we crossed over the Causse Noir and back to Meyruis via Lavejols. 30/8 Meyruis to Nant. Cool, sunny then cloudier later. 40mls
Descended down the Gorges de la Jonte with a number of stops on the way to look at the views. There is one particular good viewpoint where you peer down into the gorge. Cafe stop at Le Rozier before we climbed up and across the Causse Noir before descending to the Gorges de la Dourbie. Montpellier Le Vieux on the way is a site of strange weather beaten rock shapes - unfortuately costs you 27frs to see them all. Cafe/restaurant there. Following wind up to Nant where we arrived by mid afternoon and decided to stop for the day.
Hotel des Voyagers: Quiet location. Rooms 175frs. Meals about 80frs and breakfast 28frs.
31/8 Nant to Ganges. Warm to hot sunny day, but cool wind at times. 53mls
Late start after shopping then steady 6k climb on minor roads onto the Causse plateau and La Couvertoirade (fortified village with historical links to the Knights of the Templar). Wide horizons as we continued to Le Caylor for a cafe stop. More riding on narrow quiet roads across the Causse to St Maurice de Navacelles - lunch stop. Steep descent further on down into the very impressive Cirque de Navacelles and a winding ascent out. Outstanding views. Continued to Ganges via Montdardier & St Laurant de Miniver. Hotel Le Relais du Pont Vieux: Rooms with shower 160frs. Breakfast 25frs. No restaurant.
Cirque de Navacelles
